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May 26, 2011, 12:51 AM
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rogerflies's Avatar
Nice job on the wood winch, but you do need some reinforcement on the drum end plates as others have said.

How are you going to use the voltmeter, and what do you expect it to tell you?
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May 26, 2011, 01:01 AM
Mongo like wind. Wind Good.
V1VrV2's Avatar
That's a FLS motor on there... With a good 12 VDC battery, it generates 5 HP and I'd bet $$ to donuts it will bust that endplate off of the drum. That line will wedge itself between the core hub and the end plate like a Lousiana alligator after a lame duck. Ask me how I know. Yup been there, done that, got that t-shirt.

Just sayin'...
May 26, 2011, 06:52 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by lincoln
Seems like wood winch frames are lighter than the usual metal ones. I know mine is, and it was easy to make. I suspect the ends of that wood drum need a bit of reinforcement. Would not be too hard to do with fiberglass or something. Or maybe just thicker wood on the ends.
My winch frame is wood as well. I'm sure it is lighter than metal and works just as well. I also support the motor in a "cradle" as opposed to on the end flange, which I think requires less strength in the support.

May 26, 2011, 06:54 AM
Registered User
Well it sounds like I need to reinforce the endplates. I had thought about fiberglassing the drum and after the recommendation I will do that. The voltmeter is just there so that I can see the unloaded voltage on the battery and I had it laying around and thought I might just use it. It is a FLS that I am using. If I end up running across a metal drum I would gladly use it, but the few I have found they want more than I am willing to pay, plus this gave me a chance to use my wood lathe which I am just learning how to use. Thanks for the advice.

May 26, 2011, 08:24 AM
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kilwein's Avatar
To reinforce the end plate how about using a wide 1/8in thick metal washer in the bolt ring area?
A 1in centerhole washer can be ~2.5 to 3in on outer edges.
This will help spread the load out.
May 26, 2011, 09:37 AM
have gun will travel
scottrod31's Avatar
i like how this thread went from a hand held winch to one that has to be pulled with a truck

May 26, 2011, 10:38 AM
the answer 42 is
Neil maybe you can try it the Double-Dutch way

(0 min 53 sec)


May 26, 2011, 02:26 PM
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mhodgson's Avatar
jh2rc97- a question.

How does the rubber strip/belt work? I assume it is to stop the pulley from spinning to fast and getting tangles so does it add pressure when the line is tensioned during launch and release pressure when the line is released from the model.

Also any plans for this winch?
May 26, 2011, 03:03 PM
Closed Account
That bicycle needs a cup holder...

May 26, 2011, 10:45 PM
Registered User
That one is arranged a bit differently than some I've seen, but it does the same thing. When the line is tight, it lifts the arm so the belt goes slack and gets slightly lifted so it doesn't drag. As soon as there is slack in the line, the arm tightens the belt and quickly stops the drum. This is so you don't have to spend 10 minutes and lose 50 feet of line every time you let someone else use the winch. I haven't got around to doing this with my winch because I don't use it much, especially when other fliers are there who bring more powerful winches.

I should think if you used something based on a bicycle brake pad that works against the side of the drum, you could put the drum that much closer to the motor and ease the load on the bearings.

I've also seen an active brake that the pilot could lock the drum with. If you stepped on the right side of the switch, it pulled line in. If you stepped on the left, a solenoid applied a bicycle brake pad to the drum to keep it from turning. Good for kiting in the wind.
Originally Posted by mhodgson
jh2rc97- a question.

How does the rubber strip/belt work? I assume it is to stop the pulley from spinning to fast and getting tangles so does it add pressure when the line is tensioned during launch and release pressure when the line is released from the model.

Also any plans for this winch?
May 27, 2011, 03:23 AM
Registered User
mhodgson's Avatar
Got it now! I confused myself with the angles and movements, thinking it tightened the strap when the line was tensioned when in fact it is the oposite.
Thanks for that.
May 27, 2011, 08:05 AM
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You must use some REALLY complicated linkage: ;-)
Originally Posted by Edwinzea
Neil maybe you can try it the Double-Dutch way
Jun 13, 2011, 08:19 PM
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hornet_dave's Avatar
Ive spent the last couple days thinking about how to make a winch using hobby components - a big honking outrunner and brushless esc from hobbyking, 6s lipo (i have a spare laying around...), make a spool from a piece of 3/4 inch steel rod with a couple round washer pieces welded on to make the endplates. You would need a shaft coupler to connect the spool to the motor shaft.

The fun part would be the electrical control unit to control the ESC. I figure a crude method could be to hack up a servo tester. Replace the rotary control pot with a resistor capacitor arrangement which translates the winch pedal tap tap tap to a throttle like signal for the esc. Heck, on the ESC, use the brake feature so you dont have to use a mechanical brake on the winch.

My biggest concern is motor synching during startup and low speed. Im not sure if you built up a lot of tension in the line, and then stopped and attempted to start the motor, that the motor would run. It may take a different technique to work but i sont see a show stopper.

This would get you a lightweight, 2kw winch for about $200 in materials. Heck, the highstart i just built was $100.
Jun 13, 2011, 09:28 PM
Registered User
RWCLOUD's Avatar
You would need some sort of clutch on a Outrunner,it needs to get spinnning before a load is put on it. thats why they aren't used much on RC cars. Maybe a clutch from a weed wacker?
Jun 13, 2011, 09:58 PM
Registered User
hornet_dave's Avatar
I just thought of a good experiment - simply hold on to the spinner of one of my brushless airplanes and see how it starts. I just happen to have one with a broken prop.

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