40" me-163 komet - RC Groups
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Apr 25, 2011, 08:39 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar

40" me-163 komet

Having built a profile 24" span Komet (which is really a fun plane) and a full fuselage 30" one, I decided to go for a 40" semi scale ME163.
This one has a symmetrical wing.

The project started with the wing made from $store foam. The wing was cut out from 2 sheets of foam which were then glued together. A spar made from 1/4" square piece of bass wood with a 1/4" square piece of tapered Depron was glued to the bottom sheet of foam about 1/3 back from the leading edge. A 4" piece of brown paper bag was glued (50/50 water Titebond) to the outside leading edge so the wing could be folded without splitting the foam. The foam was bent over the edge of a table and the top glued to the spar and trailing edge.

After the glue had set, a 3/8 square piece of balsa was added to the trailing edge after which the left-right wing panels were glued together.

A piece of balsa was used to cover the hole in the leading edge that is inside the body and a 6mm piece of Depron was added to the trailing edge to continue the aileron edge to the body.
Last edited by hoppy; Apr 25, 2011 at 10:09 PM.
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Apr 25, 2011, 08:54 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
A block of balsa was shaped and glued to the wing tips.
To provide a smooth surface and to "bullet proof" the foam from dings and stiffen it up a whole lot, the surface was covered with newspaper. A 60%glue/40%water (Titebond) was applied to the foam surface and one side of the paper. The other side of the paper was sprayed with a mist of water. The paper was smoothed down on the foam and allowed to dry. Both sides were done to minimize any warping when the paper shrinks during drying.
Apr 25, 2011, 09:12 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
The body was cut from 2" thick polystyrene.
A 3/16" slot was cut in the foam for the skid and rudder prior to cutting the body shape.

A chunk was removed from the fuselage for the battery, rudder servo, RX, and ESC. The top of the 'chunk' was saved to be used later as the hatch cover.
A 1/4' piece of plywood was glued to the nose for the motor mount.
Apr 25, 2011, 09:19 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
6mm Depron was cut and glued into the battery/acc compartment to provide side strength and a ledge for the hatch to sit on.

Fuselage sides were cut from blue-core and glued to the main body with 3M77 spray glue.
Last edited by hoppy; Apr 25, 2011 at 09:28 PM.
Apr 25, 2011, 09:31 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
The body was shaped, sanded, and covered with newspaper like the wing.
Apr 25, 2011, 09:34 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
After the paper on all parts was dry, all surfaces were coated with Polycrylic.
The parts were painted, green on top, white on the bottom for a look see.
The ailerons are 6mm depron with the paper covering.
Last edited by hoppy; Apr 26, 2011 at 08:45 AM.
Apr 25, 2011, 09:41 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
The servos were buried in the wing and the servo wire run through the wing and out into the battery compartment. A 3/4" hole was melted through the battery compartment to access the servo leads.

Test flights were very good but I need to add the rudder to sharpen the turns.
The 30" model had no problems knife edging with a little rudder and I expect this one to do likewise.

The motor is a Suppo 2212-6, 6x4 APC with a 3s1800 pack.
Last edited by hoppy; May 06, 2011 at 05:59 PM.
Apr 26, 2011, 05:38 AM
semper ventosus
weather_man's Avatar
Great job man, I like it. Got any video?
Apr 26, 2011, 07:50 AM
2^p - 1
signflyer's Avatar
Great looking Komet! I, too, would love to see some video. What kind of paint did you use?
Apr 26, 2011, 09:20 AM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
I sealed all surfaces with Minwax Polycrylic prior to painting so I could use any type paint on it. For this plane I used Krylon indoor/outdoor spray paint.

Thanks for the comments.
No video yet but I'll try for some.

The coroplast skid was replaced with a one made from EPS. The strip is just held in by friction and can be replaced if demolished from a hard landing. The nose cone has been added which helps the looks a bit. The red rudder will be replaced with a functional green one.
May 03, 2011, 02:46 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
Got the plane finished. Functional rudder and a paper covered balsa skid added. Plane flies very well, give it a lot of room for landing as it will glide a long way.
Plan - http://plans.aerofred.com/cat12.htm?page=11
May 03, 2011, 03:09 PM
Unregulated User
Till I get a chance to video this, you will have to take my word - it flys really well.

This is the third rendition of the ME 163 built by Hoppy. The first had several changes but ended up as a fast nimble little profile plane. The second was bigger and I think ended up as a pusher, again very nimble and quick. This one is by far the most elaborate, full fuselage, fully covered, and painted. I was amazed how strong the foam got after covering with newspaper. If you have too much flex in any section of a build, look at covering it - you wont believe the strength. Also there is very little weight increase!
A real fun fly!
May 03, 2011, 04:09 PM
Registered User
I don't want to kareen off topic but I want to know more about the newspaper covering
And by more I mean everything
Please direct me to a post or send me a pm
May 04, 2011, 09:42 AM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
It's quite simple.
#1 - Paper is much stronger in the cross page direction than in the vertical direction. Ever notice how you can tear newspaper very easily up and down the page. Trying to tear it in line with a sentence is much harder. The lesson here is to orient the paper strips so that the print runs in the same direction as the load on the surface. For instance, on a wing which wants to flex up and down, I'll run the paper with the sentences running parallel with the leading edge.
#2 The paper when wet will stretch to some degree but to make the surface as smooth as possible, use strips where there are complex curves.
#3 The glue is a mix of Titebond woodglue (60%) and 40% water. You can make it up in a large quantity and store it in an old oleo container.
#4 The paper is cut to shape before applying the glue.
#5 Apply a coat of glue to the foam surface. If it balls up, wipe it off, let it dry and sand it. The balling up is due to a greasy/dirty surface.
#6 There are 2 ways to do the next step.
----A. Using a spray bottle of water, wet both sides of the paper. Shake off any excess water and apply it to the foam surface.
----B. Apply the glue mix to one surface and spray the other side with water, then lay the glue to glue sides together. I think this way is a bit stronger.
#7 Smooth the paper down removing any wrinkles. You can also use a credit card and squeegee any excess glue from the glue layer.
#8 On thin surfaces like a rudder, the paper must be applied to both the top and bottom at the same time to prevent the part from warping. The paper shrinks on drying.
#9 Sand the dried paper lightly with 400grit paper.
#10 Apply a coat of Polycrylic to all surfaces, sand, and use any paint you have for the final coat.

The best way to learn is to make up some test pieces and see how it goes. It makes the cheap $store foam ding resistance and adds a lot of stiffness. Try it on a 5x5 piece of polystyrene 6mm sheet.

For a better explanation, more detail and pictures, go here. The newspaper info starts at post # 49.
May 04, 2011, 12:10 PM
just Some Useless Geek
...and yet you are still using Polycrylic to pseudo-glass the surface. Why not use something like ultra-thin nylon weave, like what they use to make glass curtains? The stuff weighs nothing at all, is easy to cut to shape, flexes all over the place (it's fabric, after all) and becomes stiff as a board once you apply the urethane resin.


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