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Oct 30, 2011, 06:50 PM
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atesus's Avatar
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Thanks all. I didn't want to bring it to the contest with the masking tape hinges and all but I'm keen on finishing up and maidening it within a week (fingers crossed). Noel was very kind to share some of his 1/2" clear hinge tape. That should do the job nicely.
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Nov 01, 2011, 02:38 PM
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Now that sure is purddy, that will give you many a hours of sailing the winds, thanks for taking us through your build, nice to see it done...............or nearly.
Nov 03, 2011, 03:13 AM
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atesus's Avatar
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Thanks Balmy Breeze, yes it's almost done.

I just glued the fin in place. Also arranged the electronics compartment, bent a few Z-bends etc. I had to drill smaller holes on the servo horn as the existing holes resulted in too much slop in the control linkages (I'm using 0.025" pushrods). I still have some slop which I'd like to eliminate but not sure how. That hatch cover magnet in the picture needs to be replaced with something stronger as well.

Other than that, the only thing left to do is to hinge the spoiler and glue the spoiler servo in place. Almost there...
Nov 03, 2011, 11:47 AM
that's gonna hurt...
Quote:
Originally Posted by atesus
I had to drill smaller holes on the servo horn as the existing holes resulted in too much slop in the control linkages (I'm using 0.025" pushrods). I still have some slop which I'd like to eliminate but not sure how.
1st of all, nice work all the way through the thread, and the covering looks especially nice.

If the pushrod slop is minimal, you can drop some CA in the servo arm hole to tighten it up. Keep the pushrod in the hole and give it a twist to break the pushrod free after it kicks. If the fit is much looser, then maybe a bushing, like some stripped insulation from a small diameter wire, or small brass tubing.

So ..... almost done eh? What's up for your next build thread ?

Bruce
Nov 03, 2011, 10:52 PM
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atesus's Avatar
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Bruce, thank you.

All good tips, but I particularly like the CA trick. It has a good chance of working since the slop is actually not too bad. Should I use thin or thick CA (I'm afraid you'll say medium which I don't have at the moment )?

Well, it looks like the next build will be either a Mirage (70's RES) or a Manta Woody DLG. There's also this little Thermic 50x (Zaic design, 50" WS) that I've been wanting to convert to R/C. Maybe I do that first...
Nov 04, 2011, 11:52 AM
Registered User

Shrinking the servo hole...


Being thermoplastic, gently heating and compressing the plastic can close the hole.

Noel
Nov 04, 2011, 02:06 PM
that's gonna hurt...
Thin CA is good. You can do it a couple of times if you need to build it up.

Bruce
Nov 04, 2011, 02:13 PM
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atesus's Avatar
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Noel, thanks for the idea. However the bigger slop is at the tail side of the pushrod where the horn is made out of plywood .

Bruce, thanks, I'll try with thin CA.
Nov 09, 2011, 01:12 PM
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atesus's Avatar
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The thin CA worked nicely and the slop is mostly eliminated. The hinge tape I got from Noel worked very well too. If nothing urgent comes up, I'm planning to maiden it tomorrow at Curtis .

OK, while I'm at it, a few more shots ...
Nov 09, 2011, 08:15 PM
Egads! It's a GIRL!
Lil Stinkpot's Avatar
Shucks! The one day I NEED to go in to work.

Beautiful plane! Love the color scheme.
Nov 10, 2011, 12:49 AM
Everyday normal guy.
Don Cohn's Avatar
Wow...outstanding!
Nov 12, 2011, 04:31 AM
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atesus's Avatar
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Unfortunately no maiden happened on Thursday. I noticed that the rudder was behaving erratically. When I moved the stick to the left slowly, all seemed OK. When I moved it fast, the rudder stopped prematurely, seemingly at a random position, short of its full range. We disconnected the rudder linkage to eliminate any possibility of binding, and focused on the servo. We tested the servo under load and discovered that it gave -lost its torque all of a sudden- towards the end of its range. Most probably stripped gears, we concluded. I got a set of metal gears (the originals were carbonite) and replaced them tonight. One thing I noticed however, the gears I removed looked pristine! I couldn't see any damage whatsoever . I greased the gears, reassembled the case and tried again. Sure enough, the same behavior was observed .

Since I had everything out of the electronics compartment, I swapped the servos, and the good servo did the same thing. To make a long story short, at the end I discovered that this happens only if I reverse the servo. When I switch to the NORMAL mode, all is well.

I swapped the receiver with an Optima 7, and everything returned to normal, reverse or not, as it would be expected. I had to do quite a bit of rearrangement in the nose, and still things are not a perfect fit, but I was able to fit the larger Optima 7 in there, and that's how I'm going to fly.

In the meantime, I took some videos of the problem and will report them on the Hitec support forum. FYI, the combination where I had this problem is as below:

Transmitter: Futaba 9CHP Super
RF Module: Hitec 2.4 Spectra
Receiver: Minima 6T
Servo: HS65HB
This problem occurs when CH1 is reversed on the radio. I didn't try on any other channel.
Nov 12, 2011, 12:01 PM
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Sailhigh's Avatar
Ates,
I've had a peculiar problem with HS-65s also. One of the two -65 in the plane would have an intermittent issue with activation when the switch was turned on. Sometimes it would come online, sometimes it didn't.I knew it wasn't a gear issue, so I plugged it to other channels and replaced the connector, but the problem always chased that servo. Both servos were bought and installed at the same time. I finally bit the bullet and ordered a new one and will be using the old servo for spare parts. No issues with the new one so far.
Nov 12, 2011, 04:08 PM
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atesus's Avatar
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Sean, my problem doesn't seem be related to the servo. Actually I just tried to recreate the situation in another model memory but was unable to do so. I switched back to the program I created for Miles, it did it again, regardless of the servo. I tried another HS65 as well as other servos, they all show the problem. It seems to have something to do with the programming of the radio but it's such a simple program, nothing fancy, it beats me. In any event I'll reset the program memory for this model and reprogram, checking for this behavior after each step. Let's see . I hope I can find a conclusive answer and go back to the smaller receiver. Otherwise I have to readjust CG, and to do that I have to remove everything out of the nose etc etc .
Nov 13, 2011, 04:04 AM
DSX
DSX
Registered User
.
Ates,

Did you update your Hitec 2.4 Spectra RF module to version 3.01 ?

Minima 6 Receivers require that your RF module or transmitter have

firmware version 3.01 installed to operate.

http://www.hitecrcd.com/support/firm...c24update.html

Cheers, .. Randy


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