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Apr 20, 2011, 02:08 AM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
Build Log

Yet another JW60 build log


Good evening. I got my JW60 kit from L2 Airframes a few days ago; I was looking for an Electron 60 but I found out that these are no longer available. I did read many good things about the JW and I decided to build one after having taken a break from RC flying.

Anyway, the kit looked in great condition. It included the fuselage, wing cores, carbon spars, metal joiners, aileron and trailing edge stock, coroplast tail, and miscellaneous hardware. All that was missing was the instructions, but I downloaded these from:

http://www.rchq.co.za/e107_files/pub...structions.pdf

The instructions were missing because these were sent to me in the email that confirmed the shipping of the kit. So, it was a complete kit and I am looking forward to the finished product.

I know that there are other JW build logs, but I wanted to add mine to the collection here at RC Groups. In fact, these other threads will be very helpful to build my JW.
Last edited by Zé Povinho; Apr 20, 2011 at 11:53 AM.
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Apr 20, 2011, 02:13 AM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
I began by building the wing spars. First I made sure that the carbon rods fit into the metal joiners, and then I sanded the ends of the rods, where the epoxy was to be applied.

After prepping the rods, I mixed 30 minute epoxy and then I applied it to both the inside of the joiners and the sanded areas of the carbon rods. I will stop for today.
Apr 20, 2011, 02:42 AM
F3J-F3K-F3F- What to Fly??
Dale Thompson's Avatar
How heavy are you going to build it?
Apr 20, 2011, 01:18 PM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
As for the weight, I plan to make it in the mid 30s.
Apr 21, 2011, 01:52 AM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
Today (4/20) I worked on the wings. First I traced the rounding outline to the wings using a bleach container as a guide. Rather than waiting until the wing halves were joined to start shaping the tips, I shaped them before joining the wings. In this way, I could make sure that the tips were equally shaped.

After I cut the tips to the round shape, I used no. 80 sandpaper and a sanding block to round them. In order to sand EPP, it is necessary to sand in one direction only-no back and forth.

Then I poked holes in the wing roots to ensure that the Goop had better penetration into the foam. This is something I learned when I built my first foamies a few years ago.

After this, I applied Zap Goo to the wing roots and then I joined them together. To hold the wings in place, I applied several strips of masking tape to the bottom of the wing panels.

The thing about Zap Goo is that it sets quickly (even though its maximum strength is reached in a day or so). I have used this glue to build my prior foamies and I realized that all I have to do is to hold the wing cores together for about 5 to 10 minutes and the glue is already set (again, I must wait a day in order for the glue to reach maximum strength, though).

__________________________________________________ ____
A new day (4/21). Today I cut the cavities for the metal joiners-this took some time to do, but I made sure that the spar assembly was flush with the wing surface. For this task, I used an X-Acto knife with No. 11 blade.

After this, I poured Zap Goo into the spar slots on top of the wing and then I pressed the spar assembly into the slot. I pressed them myself into the slot rather than using wing beds and weights because the Zap Goo works VERY fast-it sets in minutes although it fully dries in a day. I did not have to wait an entire day to work on the bottom of the wing. So, after a few hours, I repeated the same procedure with the bottom of the wing and the shorter spar assembly. In the process of attaching the spars to the wing, I used two full bottles of Zap Goo. I remember that, a few years ago, the bottles were longer and had more product, but now they have less capacity. Right now I set the wing aside while the goo fully dries.

The spar assembly fit securely into the slots so there was no need to use the wing beds or weights. Again, the Zap Goo set quickly.

Meanwhile, I ordered a pair of Hitec 625MG servos and a Futaba 617 2.4 GHz receiver from a seller on Ebay (all items are brand new). I already have a 1000 mAH battery that was included with the Futaba 7C transmitter that I also got on Ebay. All of these items cost me considerably less than if I had bought them at a hobby shop.

I want a plane that is fast both in front of the slope and an introduction to dynamic soaring if I ever get the chance to do this-hence the beefy servos.

The photos below show all the steps I have taken so far.
Last edited by Zé Povinho; Apr 22, 2011 at 08:02 AM.
Apr 21, 2011, 02:04 AM
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WhenI joined the wings, I noted that there were gaps in the front and back of the wings-and these gaps could not be closed by just brining the areas together. To solve this, I cut pieces of EPP foam from the wing beds and the I gooped them and then cut the excess foam to match the shape of the airfoil. I also applied Zap Goo to fill in the remaining gaps.

While the wing fully dried, I proceeded to work on the fuselage. For today, all I did was to glue the fuselage back together-when one gets the kit, that fuse is split from the bottom of the wing saddle to the tail. So, I applied Zap Goo to that area and then secured it with masking tape until it dries.

Well, that's all for today.
Apr 21, 2011, 11:14 AM
agony sweetns the victory
atjurhs's Avatar
JWs are awesome flyers. I've flown mine in really light air and have used it to learn to DS, hopefully you're planning to build it with the ability to add ballast.

Oh, and it makes for a nice BattleAxe in slope combat fights

You'll love it!
Apr 22, 2011, 08:03 AM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
Thanks. This is why I got the JW.
Apr 28, 2011, 02:43 AM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
Well, back to this thread. I glued the basswood trailing edges with Zap Goo. These trailing edges were wider than the rear of the wing, so I used a wood plane to trim them close to the foam and then I used a long wood block and No. 80 sandpaper to sand them flush with the rear of the wing.

I ordered a Futaba R607FS Rx from Ebay-it is used but in good condition, and with the price of things today, I am looking at ways to save money.

The 625 servos arrived, so I proceeded to start on the cavities for them.

First I drew the outline of the servos 10 inches away from the center of the wing, as suggested in another JW60 build thread. After this was done, I grabbed the servos and traced their outline with a pen.

Then I traced the outline with the No. 11 X-Acto blade, making sure to drive it to where the sloped edge of the blade ends (this is the thickness of the 625 servo).

Since I don't have Dremel tools or other such devices, I applied a trick that was given to me several years ago-I don't recall the source, but I know that this was shared to me. Anyway, I drew smaller squares within the large servo outline, and then I traced them with the X-Acto knife.

After this was done, I lifted the small squares up with the tip of a jeweler's screwdriver.

The photos show the steps.
Apr 28, 2011, 07:54 AM
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PalmdaleFlyer's Avatar
Thanks for the log. I have one to build also and need tips on the covering. I built a Combat Wing, and it has the covering of a 98yo woman, it has so many wrinkles.
Apr 29, 2011, 01:21 AM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
You are welcome.
Apr 29, 2011, 01:54 AM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
While I wait for the receiver to arrive, I will move on. It's time to shape the fuselage. For this, I will follow some of the procedures that were indicated when I built the Dave's Aircraft Works FoaMe-163 years ago. Of course, the previous JW60 logs that have bee posted by others are extremely useful, too.

Anyway, as we all know, the fuselage is a shaped block-no round edges at all.

The first thing I did was to draw a center line from the slot where the tail goes to the front of the fuse. Then I drew a curve on the front of the fuse-this was to shape the nose.

Next, I drew four lines on the fuselage-two on the top and two on the bottom, 1/4 in or so from the edges. I used the X-Acto to cut these corners so, when seen from the front, the fuse looks like an octagonal prism.

After this, I used the sanding block and No. 80 sandpaper to round the fuselage. This step took a while to complete, but the reward is a round and aerodynamic fuse that is beautiful to look at, will improve the performance of the JW, and will make appying the tape and covering easier.
May 03, 2011, 03:53 AM
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Zé Povinho's Avatar
Back to some more building. Today I will cover the radio installation and solving the issues related to the installation of a receiver that has side connectors for the servos.

First of all, I removed the servo horns and trimmed them; after this, I screwed them back in place.

I tested the radio and servos, and made sure to turn on the elevon mix for this model.

I then traced the outline of the receiver. It will be installed at the center of the wing, about 3/4 in or so behind the metal joiner.

Then I traced the wire routings on the wing-for the servos and the antennas. Since the 2.4 GHz ones are much shorter than the 72 MHz ones, I did not have to do much routing. Just make sure that the two antennas are 90 degrees or so from each other. The photos show all this.

Installing the receiver presented some issues. First, the Futaba 2.4 GHz Rx that I got has servo connectors that are on its side rather than at the end. When the servo wires are installed, this creates a big bulge as shown on the photo. In order to solve this, I first cut out the Rx cavity, taking care that the blade of the knife did not penetrate below the Rx thickness.

After this, I dug out the foam using the small squares method as shown in the post regarding cutting the servo cavities.

I dug deeper at the front of this cavity in order to fit the bulge that resulted from installing the servo connectors and the wire extension that will be used to connect the battery to the receiver.

I then traced the servo wire outline with the X-Acto blade and then made it wider using a jeweler's screwdriver.

I then wrapped masking tape to the sides of the servos and then glued them to the wing using Zap Goo. The masking tape is to make their removal easier if there is a need. After this, I inserted the servo wires into the channels that were dug on the wing. Then I connected the servos to the receiver (in this case, I plugged them to channels 1 and 2) and then I installed the receiver into the wing. It fit snugly but I did not glue it.

Note that the battery wire extension sticks out. This is not an issue. When I tape the wing, I will simply make a slit on the tape so it can go around that wire with no difficulty.

The radio installation is complete.
May 03, 2011, 11:16 AM
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rockbus's Avatar
Thansk for the build thread.

One suggestion I would make is to ensure the receiver is accessible for rebinding if required. My JR and Spektrum transmitters have failed on me more than once that required rebinding of all my receivers. I hated cutting into my JW to rebind.


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