Covering with tissue solid areas, Shoestring - RC Groups
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This thread is privately moderated by pd1, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Apr 19, 2011, 09:09 AM
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Covering with tissue solid areas, Shoestring

Japanese Tissue is the lightest covering I know of.

It has a few quirks when covering so I'll try to remember all of them.
It is easier if you give the structure or sheeted area to be covered a couple of coats of dope first.
The dope under the covering helps to adhere the tissue to the plane.

Two methods of covering ; dry, wet.

Dry is only good over open framework.
You have to wet the tissue with water after covering to shrink it.
If you try to cover large sheeted areas dry, the tissue will have puckers that won't go away.

Wet will work over open framework and over sheeted areas.

1. Size the piece you're going to use about a half inch to one inch larger in all directions than needed.

2. Determine the shiny side.
One side is glossier than the other. The glossy side is out.

3. Determine the grain.
If you are going over open areas the grain goes the long way. Span wise, not chord wise.
If you try to tear a piece of tissue, it will tear readily in one direction only, This is the direction of the grain.
It doesn't want to tear across the grain.

4. Lay your sheet out over the area to be covered.
Wet the sheet with water, an atomizer works well.
You can wet the sheet then place it on the area to cover.
I have great difficulty doing it this way.

5. Once wet, work the wrinkles and excess water off the surface with your fingers. Use them like a squeegee.

Be careful, once wet this stuff can get very fragile.

6. Once the wrinkles are out, start doping.

Use thinned dope. Start from the center.
Brush strokes away from the center. So you don't "pull" the tissue in on itself.

7. While the dope is still wet use your fingers like a squeegee again, to make sure all the wrinkles are out.

8. Cut away the excess tissue. Dope the edges down and use your fingers to rub the edges flat.

9. After it's dry coat with a couple of coats of dope, sanding in between.

The sanding will get rid of bumps and any rough edges.

This is the method I use. There are probably many other methods, this one works good for me.

Last edited by pd1; Apr 21, 2013 at 08:49 AM.
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