AR drone control with RC transmitter, yet another Wifi-less mod - Page 235 - RC Groups
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Nov 16, 2012, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandigan
So reflashing 1.7.11 might fix it? I don't want to go higher. I'll go down first, then come back up again. I think I need to do 1.3.1 to make sure everything gets 'wiped' properly.
Just keep in mind the mod needs at least 1.4 better 1.7 or 1.10 .
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Nov 16, 2012, 02:56 PM
Makers gonna make...
pawelsky's Avatar

SETUP mode on Android device


After doing some experiments with the LCD display as a SETUP device I've realized it is not worth it and decided to use my Android phone.

I've bought a 9$ BT to serial adapter and after a bit of configuration and downloading a free BlueTerm application - voila - we have SETUP mode on Android phone (see attached pictures).

That could be useful if you experience some problems with the mod in the field and you don't have a PC with a serial connection nearby.

Next step - iOS device, but this will most likely require a Jailbreak
Last edited by pawelsky; Nov 23, 2012 at 11:17 AM.
Nov 16, 2012, 04:49 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by pawelsky
After doing some experiments with the LCD display as a SETUP device I've released it is not worth it and decided to use my Android phone.

I've bought a 9$ BT to serial adapter and after a bit of configuration and downloading a free BlueTerm application - voila - we have SETUP mode on Android phone (see attached pictures).

That could be useful if you experience some problems with the mod in the field and you don't have a PC with a serial connection nearby.

Next step - iOS device, but this will most likely require a Jailbreak
Cool!!!
I've got a jailbreaked iphone (3GS). So I wait your next step.
Nov 17, 2012, 04:24 AM
Makers gonna make...
pawelsky's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fioulmaster
Cool!!!
I've got a jailbreaked iphone (3GS). So I wait your next step.
May not be that easy, can't find any app that would give me access to raw data from SPP
Nov 17, 2012, 11:19 AM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by miru
Just keep in mind the mod needs at least 1.4 better 1.7 or 1.10 .
Yes, no problem. Didn't have much time to spend, but going down to 1.1.3 (was typo before when I said 1.3.3, I skipped that one) fixed the file error right away.

Had some fun upgrading from there, as I'd forgotten put used /data, not /data/video for ftp way back then, so was wondering where on earth ardrone_update.plf had got to.

I then did 1.4.6, 1.5.1, 1.7.11, as they're fairly big and contained the most actual changes, not fiddly little bug fixes.

Some interesting side effects of all this:
1) renaming of the drone to ardone_v1.7.11 is unexplained, but might have been a default 'fix' when the corruption happened.
2) at2so.arm was still in /data/video when I'd finished (I'd put it there before the first downgrade when the files were corrupted, but it was still working happily with a Resistor Mod.
3) It now connects to the iPhone much faster. It used to spin for quite a while in Settings>Wifi before, now the tick is there in seconds.
4) It's reset the flight time length, so now I have a 'new' drone with only 2 minutes flight on it.
5) Video is now smooth and non-glitchy on the iPhone. Previously some apps were a bit fussy and would occasionally break up when the drone was moved quickly, but now they're all fast and smooth no matter how fast I wave the Drone about. (Drone Control/Drone Ace/FlightRecord/FreeFlight)

So, it's basically had a bit of a spring clean and is better for it.
Last edited by Brandigan; Nov 17, 2012 at 01:28 PM.
Nov 17, 2012, 11:49 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by dante1
I am using a Fastrax UP501 GPS module
which uses the MT3329 chipset. When connecting to the FTDI, should I see the RX and TX led flash? I changed the voltage on the breakout to 3.3volts and it is detected in Windows7.

Thanks
I just tried a UP501, the data jumps like on all the others, but it has a really fast TTFF (< 30 sec) even without the backup battery.
Nov 17, 2012, 01:22 PM
Suspended Account
Miru, before I commit to making another Level Shifter Mod, could you please provide the voltages I should be getting on Tx and Rx Drone side > GND with a Nano, Pro Mini, with Resistors and a Level Shifter (v1 and v2) because if I'm doing something wrong, I'd rather not have to buy another mainboard for my v2 after I've plugged it in again?

I assume you must have made/tested all 6 variations, so should have access to that data and it would be useful for others as well as me to avoid frying boards.

Setup can't tell me enough, I've just tested my replacement Nano with only the Receiver connected and Hyperterminal is all go as usual, but as that's all internal, I need to use a multimeter.
Nov 17, 2012, 01:59 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by dante1
Has anyone tried using a Spektrum DX5e remote? In theory, will it work with a 6 channel RX?

Thanks
Did you ever find out the answer to this? I'm curious as well...
Nov 17, 2012, 06:25 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandigan
Miru, before I commit to making another Level Shifter Mod, could you please provide the voltages I should be getting on Tx and Rx Drone side > GND with a Nano, Pro Mini, with Resistors and a Level Shifter (v1 and v2) because if I'm doing something wrong, I'd rather not have to buy another mainboard for my v2 after I've plugged it in again?

I assume you must have made/tested all 6 variations, so should have access to that data and it would be useful for others as well as me to avoid frying boards.

Setup can't tell me enough, I've just tested my replacement Nano with only the Receiver connected and Hyperterminal is all go as usual, but as that's all internal, I need to use a multimeter.
Here are some numbers I measured today with a ProMini, the Sparkfun level shifter wired for D2 and the whole thing connected to a D2.
VCC on ProMini 4.94V used to power the LLC
Arduino TX 4.94V -> LLC -> Drone RX 1.677V
Drone TX 1.776V -> LLC -> Arduino 4.90V
I don't have the other setups any more, since I am experimenting with a different FET (BSL806N) and a 1.8V(D2) or 3.3V(D1) LDO to do the level shift.
If I recall your numbers right, you had a fairly low VCC from your Nano. Investigate that by powering it from VIN with 12V and measuring VCC. Something must be pulling a lot of current.
Nov 18, 2012, 04:15 AM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by miru
Here are some numbers I measured today with a ProMini, the Sparkfun level shifter wired for D2 and the whole thing connected to a D2.
VCC on ProMini 4.94V used to power the LLC
Arduino TX 4.94V -> LLC -> Drone RX 1.677V
Drone TX 1.776V -> LLC -> Arduino 4.90V
I don't have the other setups any more, since I am experimenting with a different FET (BSL806N) and a 1.8V(D2) or 3.3V(D1) LDO to do the level shift.
If I recall your numbers right, you had a fairly low VCC from your Nano. Investigate that by powering it from VIN with 12V and measuring VCC. Something must be pulling a lot of current.
Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time. Any chance you could perhaps temporarily break the LV>RX0 Chan2 link on the Pro Mini and check what it would give for a D1 (powered by USB, obviously - don't want to fry your D2 too )?

Could you also confirm that the Chan1 LV>RX0 link is in place for a D1?

I'm not plugging anything into my D2 until I can get a Shifter Mod working on the D1, as that just doesn't start up when it's wrong rather than frying the mainboard again. The D2 board was 100 in the UK, not $100. If the D1 does die, its board is cheaper.

Yes I did have lower VCC with my previous Nano (4.63v) and now have similar (4.66v) with the new one. Two different Pro Minis always give 5.01v.
I did wonder if it was the receiver I'm using with that particular setup, so if you think that's worth investigating, I'll swap it with another and see if it changes. Might explain why that one had (unresolved) intermittent startup problems.

I've ordered some long, thin nosed tweezers to use as a heatshunt on the two GNDs on the new, new Level Shifter before I solder anything to it, as my existing heatshunt has too much of a spade end to be useful - in case I'm frying them.
Last edited by Brandigan; Nov 18, 2012 at 04:45 AM.
Nov 18, 2012, 09:19 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandigan
Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time. Any chance you could perhaps temporarily break the LV>RX0 Chan2 link on the Pro Mini and check what it would give for a D1 (powered by USB, obviously - don't want to fry your D2 too )?
If you power a Nano mod by USB, the voltage regulator on the Nano is bypassed and power is derived from USB power through a diode. This might be the cause of your low voltage reading on a Nano if you don't power the mod with 12V. On a ProMini this diode does not exist. If you power a ProMini mod from USB (through the FTDI) you get whatever the FTDI board is sending on the VCC pin, which, most likely, is USB power.
The LLC is wired such, that it uses the two series resistors (channel 1) to make the low voltage reference LV for the FETs. Since both resistor values are the same, LV is 1/2 HV (5V/2=2.5V), the configuration you want to use for a Drone 1. If you install the link between LV<->RXO(channel 2) the channel 2 bottom resistor of the channel 2 series circuit is parall to the bottom resistor of channel 1, which makes LV 1/3 HV (5V/3=1.67V), the configuration for a drone 2.
Quote:
Could you also confirm that the Chan1 LV>RX0 link is in place for a D1?
No (see above)
Nov 18, 2012, 11:42 AM
Suspended Account
OK, will power both from Drone and measure after they've regulated the 12v then, rather than worry about what they get from USB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by miru
The LLC is wired such, that it uses the two series resistors (channel 1) to make the low voltage reference LV for the FETs. Since both resistor values are the same, LV is 1/2 HV (5V/2=2.5V), the configuration you want to use for a Drone 1. If you install the link between LV<->RXO(channel 2) the channel 2 bottom resistor of the channel 2 series circuit is parall to the bottom resistor of channel 1, which makes LV 1/3 HV (5V/3=1.67V), the configuration for a drone 2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandigan
Could you also confirm that the Chan1 LV>RX0 link is in place for a D1?
Quote:
Originally Posted by miru
No (see above)
Sorry, didn't make myself clear and probably used wrong terminology. I meant: is this wiring correct for the Drone 1?
Last edited by Brandigan; Nov 18, 2012 at 12:23 PM.
Nov 18, 2012, 12:08 PM
Registered User
Miru, could you share some details about interface between arduino code and companion program? I am interested specifically in controlling drone motor LEDs. My barometric stabilization addition to your mod seem to be working ok, but I would like to add visual indication of stabilization kicking in, at least for testing and choosing appropriate parameters for it (only simple proportional is implemented atm). Motor LEDs would be ideal as indicators, but I can't deduce how to control them from your code (RX=L parameteres?). Thanks a bunch!
Nov 18, 2012, 12:24 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandigan
Sorry, didn't make myself clear. I meant: is this wiring correct for the Drone 1?
Yes
Nov 18, 2012, 12:48 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by happul3
Miru, could you share some details about interface between arduino code and companion program? I am interested specifically in controlling drone motor LEDs. My barometric stabilization addition to your mod seem to be working ok, but I would like to add visual indication of stabilization kicking in, at least for testing and choosing appropriate parameters for it (only simple proportional is implemented atm). Motor LEDs would be ideal as indicators, but I can't deduce how to control them from your code (RX=L parameteres?). Thanks a bunch!
RX=L,<type>,<frequency>,<duration> will be sent on to the drone as ATLED=<seq>,<type>,<frequency>,<duration> by the companion program. The <seq> is generated by the companion program, the rest is passed on as is. On the drone the motor leds can not be addressed individually, you have to provide the 3 parameters of the LED command. <type> is one of these:
Code:
/*
 *  0 BLINK_GREEN_RED
 *  1 BLINK_GREEN
 *  2 BLINK_RED
 *  3 BLINK_ORANGE
 *  4 SNAKE_GREEN_RED
 *  5 FIRE
 *  6 STANDARD
 *  7 RED
 *  8 GREEN
 *  9 RED_SNAKE
 * 10 BLANK
 * 11 RIGHT_MISSILE
 * 12 LEFT_MISSILE
 * 13 DOUBLE_MISSILE
 * 14 FRONT_LEFT_GREEN_OTHERS_RED
 * 15 FRONT_RIGHT_GREEN_OTHERS_RED
 * 16 REAR_RIGHT_GREEN_OTHERS_RED
 * 17 REAR_LEFT_GREEN_OTHERS_RED
 * 18 LEFT_GREEN_RIGHT_RED
 * 19 LEFT_RED_RIGHT_GREEN
 * 20 BLINK_STANDARD
 */
Check the SDK for additions/deletions. <frequency> is the frequency of the pattern in HZ, you have to send an integer (e.g. 5Hz would be 1084227584) and <duration> is the duration of the pattern in seconds, 0 meaning forever or until something else comes up.
Don't shoot me, I did not design this...


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