PARIS Aerial Photography Plug-n-Play boards for MultiWiiCopters - RC Groups
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Apr 08, 2011, 09:33 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Discussion

PARIS Aerial Photography Plug-n-Play boards for MultiWiiCopters


Welcome - this thread has been requested by Firefox675 to support questions/discussions/troubleshooting regarding the PARIS Aerial Photography naked and Plug-n-Play boards for MultiWiiCopters running on Arduino Code

The main Wiki for these boards is at multiwiicopter.com/pages/multiwiicopter-wiki

Specific information about these boards is at the product pages
Plug-n-Play PARIS v3 here
Naked PARIS v3 here
Naked PARIS v2 here

Recyling a Nintendo Nunchuk and Wii Motion Plus how-to-videos are here

Cheers Quinton

If you have any questions please post them in this thread or email me at info@multiwiicopter.com - (NOT via PM - PMs are like from the 1950's)
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Apr 08, 2011, 09:43 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Question - What is the meaning of the LEDS'on a PARIS board?
Answers - see below

RED LED = power to 328 CPU is ON - should always be on
The CPU board gets power from the 5v BUS ; or USB
The Rx and 5v BUS gets power from a UBEC or a BEC on one of your ESCs - ; NOT via USB

GREEN LED on the CPU board and the Hi-Output LED(either bright white or bright green) have several functions
1) GREEN LEDS are on and stay on when the board is armed
are OFF and stay OFF when the board is DISARMED
2) blink rapidly 5 times for stick calibration of the Gyro
3) blink rapidly for stick calibration of the ACC
4) blink during initial power up then go off
5) blink slowly if a problem is detected on start-up or code error ; or THRO not below MINTHROTTLE
6) blinks once to indicate the CPU compute's a leveling correction
Apr 09, 2011, 05:58 AM
gtx
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
a simple q, what are all the open soldering points in the front for ?

5v, sda, gnd, 4v5, an, blk, gnd, vcc, rci,txi, and so on..

if i would want barometer and compass i have to buy it separately ? where is a good source of these.
think i found a local distributor of both BMP085 and HMC5843, some soldering-schematic ? and, is it only to add the #Define in the code to make them work ?
Last edited by gtx; Apr 09, 2011 at 08:21 AM.
Apr 09, 2011, 08:21 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx
a simple q, what are all the open soldering points in the front for ?

5v, sda, gnd, 4v5, an, blk, gnd, vcc, rci,txi, and so on..

if i would want barometer and compass i have to buy it separately ? where is a good source of these.
think i found a local distributor of both BMP085 and HMC5843, some soldering-schematic ? and, is it only to add the #Define in the code to make them work ?
Yes the duplicate set of I2C lines and Vcc options allows you to mount additional sensors on the board and solder them above or below the board as you like, including the FreeFlightIMU or the FreeIMU, the Bosch BARO BMP085, the Bosch BMA020 or BMA180. Each sensors has it's own specs sheet. The 4v5 line is specific to clone WiiMP+ which are sensitive to over voltage from BEcs which output 5.3v - this line handles the auto reset function of a WiiMP+ where as the 5v line is for Vh on a an LLC. I have order a HMC5843 to try it and will publish a photo when I have it mounted - Airmail to AU takes 2 weeks so hpefully it will come this week. The solder pads allow you to activate the onboard 2k2 pullups to the 3v3 bus if required.
Apr 09, 2011, 09:22 PM
Registered User
What is a VH on a LLC? I'm not hip with the techno speak yet.
Apr 10, 2011, 09:02 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingdogfilms
What is a VH on a LLC? I'm not hip with the techno speak yet.
LLC's are used to run mixed voltage I2C devices - in our case with a 5v CPU and a 3v3 sensor like a BMA085 mixing with a 5v MP+ - then Vh is the 5v line.
Apr 10, 2011, 12:43 PM
gtx
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
I have order a HMC5843 to try it and will publish a photo when I have it mounted - Airmail to AU takes 2 weeks so hpefully it will come this week. The solder pads allow you to activate the onboard 2k2 pullups to the 3v3 bus if required.
but it has been tested ? sounds on you itīs never been tested ?

if you add both the compass and barometer, it will be more stable, right ?
only to Define the modules and out and fly ?
but one thing, the barometer, it cant be places inside, as in my case, a CD-case? or some food-box, cuz then it cant feel the PSI difference ?
Apr 10, 2011, 03:53 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
I have asked this question in an email to MultiwiiCopter, I thought I would ask here as well for reference. In the quote below from the site, I am a bit unclear about what is being said.

In addition to this quote, I also read that it is recommended that only one BEC from the ESC's are to be connected for a power source. I have paralelled my esc's in the past with my KK boards as this is the recommended. I want to follow the right path here as I have not had a good experience in the past with wii based controls.

If infact the best bet is to power the board with an external BEC I have a pile of higher priced Castle Creation BEC's laying around waiting for a home. What is the best way to implement the BEC power...

I guess there are more questions than I thought


Quote from site:

"For Aerial Photography do not use an ESC to power the Vcc line. Use a seprate independant switching BEC and solder the Vcc and GND lines to the board. Select 5v. Note the MCP1825S has a maximum Vcc of 6v".


Thanks,

Mike
Apr 10, 2011, 04:31 PM
gtx
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
+1 on you power,

i have a TURNIGY 5-7.5A (8~42v) HV UBEC for Lipoly here witch i want to power the board with, and the text for the soldering-joints are a little confusing, where should i connect them ?

and as iīve read about the code to enable or disable pulllups , whatīs the deal witch that ?

sorry if it might seem totally obvious but i cant get it in my head =)
Apr 11, 2011, 03:46 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx
but it has been tested ? sounds on you itīs never been tested ?

if you add both the compass and barometer, it will be more stable, right ?
only to Define the modules and out and fly ?
but one thing, the barometer, it cant be places inside, as in my case, a CD-case? or some food-box, cuz then it cant feel the PSI difference ?
@GTX - A lot of peple are concerned about stability before they fly their first maiden - actually it's very easy - certainly easier than flying a helicopter - by far. The biggest feature of multicopters is that they are natural stable - not naturaly unstable like a heli. Stability comes from the LEVEL mode - The baro has a 2m tolerance by it's specification from Bosch and it's a pressure based instrument which are subject to barometric errors - it's not a Radar Altimeter.

Barometric placement of a static sensor requires that it is placed in an area free of turbulent airflow. So far I have not read any report from any pilot on the Wii thread to say the BARO was a good investment

It has to be combined with the Z axis of the ACC - Ciskje was working on this with Alex last I heard. So yes the software is running for BARO but it's not exiting! Not like the new LEVELmode in 1.7. Make sure you have an ACC - you will love it.

The ACC LEVEL mode will give you MikroKopter MK style flying at 1/10 th the price.
Apr 11, 2011, 04:03 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by power
I have asked this question in an email to MultiwiiCopter, I thought I would ask here as well for reference. In the quote below from the site, I am a bit unclear about what is being said.

In addition to this quote, I also read that it is recommended that only one BEC from the ESC's are to be connected for a power source. I have paralelled my esc's in the past with my KK boards as this is the recommended. I want to follow the right path here as I have not had a good experience in the past with wii based controls.

If infact the best bet is to power the board with an external BEC I have a pile of higher priced Castle Creation BEC's laying around waiting for a home. What is the best way to implement the BEC power...

I guess there are more questions than I thought


Quote from site:

"For Aerial Photography do not use an ESC to power the Vcc line. Use a seprate independant switching BEC and solder the Vcc and GND lines to the board. Select 5v. Note the MCP1825S has a maximum Vcc of 6v".


Thanks,

Mike

@ Power - Mike - non Opto ESCs are for single engine (joy) flight Ops and have a basic linear built in BEC in most cases - even in single engine planes I run a separate UBEC - when four linear ESC are connected in parallel - then one always runs hotter because it's at a slightly higher voltage than the other three. Put your hand on them next time - one will always be hotter - After doing the calibration of ESCs and the maiden to check its all 100%, then remove the red wire on three of them or better still use a switch UBEC if you are flying an expensive Camera worth more than the copter itself. For multiEngined AP Ops it's better to run a dedicated UBEC from a 2S LiPo (as expensive RC AP Helis do) to give power to the CPU, the Rx is 5v - Vcc means the supply line.

Ultimately multicopters have no wings and engine failure on quads and tricopters means it will exit the flight envelope - a falling brick - not good for DSLR cameras - so if a single wire connection to the escs (which are the wings/the flight controls/the engines - the works) is not 100% you have a problem in the major category - so after a maiden you can choose to rely on your push-on connectors or just solder the white and black lines directly to the board esc pins. It's the next level for a fly-by-wire aircraft - not to use plugs and have a separate reliable power supply to Vcc. This is the main reason to fly Y6 or HEX because these both offer full engine redundancy from either a ESC failure or a prop/engine failure. the other plus is the Y6 has the same FOV (Field of view) of 120 degress between the booms.

Probably the biggest single best thing you can do for an AP TriCopter(I know you make some nice Tricopters) after you install a 3300uF cap at C1 (for the power surges of the tailservo when the LiPo is low) is run a Quanum telemetry monitor - This device will tell you when your first LiPo Cell (individual) is low and prevent an unexpected ESC shut down.
Apr 11, 2011, 04:23 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx
+1 on you power,

i have a TURNIGY 5-7.5A (8~42v) HV UBEC for Lipoly here witch i want to power the board with, and the text for the soldering-joints are a little confusing, where should i connect them ?

and as iīve read about the code to enable or disable pulllups , whatīs the deal witch that ?

sorry if it might seem totally obvious but i cant get it in my head =)
That UBEC is a little too heavy for most Copters - fine on a large copter - I use these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...TR-UBEC-3A.jpg

Solder the pins closed for 5v. Connect/solder the output to the BEC points marked on the PARIS v3.0 and disconnect all the red wires from your ESC after the maiden (by maiden I mean low hover test flight to check the ESCs are calibrated and start together) This allows the ESC to perform their main function - engine/stability control - and leaves the UBEC to do it's main job - reduce a 2S LiPo 7.4 to 5v - which it can easily and reliable do - regarless of the situation with the main LiPo. The main LiPo should be monitored by a Quanum telemetry unit

Pull ups - If you are running a WiiMP and a Nunchuk - then you don't need to know anything about pull-ups under 1.7p,1.7p2 or 1.7p3 - the default is all set correctly.

If you want to go advanced and run mixed voltages and sensors - like a BARO BMA085 or BMA180(3v3 device), with a MP+(5v or 3v3 device) on a 5v ProMini board - then the pull up pad on the PARIS v3.0 need to be solder closed. This is because the I2C lines will be too high for the BARO or BMA180 which both have a 3.8v limit on their I2C data lines. When you buy an advance sensor - study the spec sheet that is supplied with that sensor. if they specify 3v3 then it's not enough to just connect Vcc to 3v3 - the SDA and SCL lines need to be pulled-up (to positive 3v3) to keep them safe.
Last edited by AlouetteIII; Apr 11, 2011 at 04:33 AM. Reason: photo added
Apr 11, 2011, 05:19 AM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Thanks for the explanations, this is going to be a valuable thread for me.


One more quick question...you say to add the 3300uF cap at C1 for surges from the servo when power gets low. If I choose not to use a 2s lipo for power and use the 3s flight pack, will the surges still be an issue? Meaning, would I still benefit by adding the Cap?

Thanks again,


Mike
Apr 11, 2011, 06:17 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar

Code ?


This might be silly, What does the "bis" and "ter" stand for, in the prerelease versions of 1.7, prebis and preter?

Thx
Tom
Apr 11, 2011, 07:29 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by power
Thanks for the explanations, this is going to be a valuable thread for me.


One more quick question...you say to add the 3300uF cap at C1 for surges from the servo when power gets low. If I choose not to use a 2s lipo for power and use the 3s flight pack, will the surges still be an issue? Meaning, would I still benefit by adding the Cap?

Thanks again,


Mike
ESC-piggy-back-BECs and dedicated UBECs already come with small electrolytic caps to do a similar job for the FETS in the ESC - by adding a 3300uF 10v to a 5v line you are sending an extra $1 and ensuring the Rx and the CPU are NOT going to see brown outs - your copter investment went from $400 to $401. If you choose to go with one BEC; or leave all four wired (not recommended) it will still have the same benefit. If you have ever seen just how hard the Wii will work the tail servo which handles the full gyroscopic forces of the motor/prop combo - then you will likely be adding a decent sized Cap to C1 on your PARIS board.
Apr 11, 2011, 07:37 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskiemuskie
This might be silly, What does the "bis" and "ter" stand for, in the prerelease versions of 1.7, prebis and preter?
Thx
Tom
1.6 is proven software

1.7Beta came out and we were all amazed at how much better the mode LEVEL was coded - a BIG improvement - so many are flying with it - even though it's Beta Software because it's basically honey to a bear. Irresistible.


1.7p1 first version of 1.7beta Alex called it 1.7pre
1.7p2 second version of 1.7beta Alex called it 1.7prebis
1.7p3 third version of 1.7beta Alex called it 1.7preter

Alex receives BUG reports and new code from other contributors on the MultiWii.com site and checks them out for veracity; then alters the code and, if he is still wanting feedback - he releases another BETA for testing.
Apr 11, 2011, 11:01 AM
gtx
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
@GTX - A lot of peple are concerned about stability before they fly their first maiden - actually it's very easy - certainly easier than flying a helicopter - by far. The biggest feature of multicopters is that they are natural stable - not naturaly unstable like a heli. Stability comes from the LEVEL mode - The baro has a 2m tolerance by it's specification from Bosch and it's a pressure based instrument which are subject to barometric errors - it's not a Radar Altimeter.

Barometric placement of a static sensor requires that it is placed in an area free of turbulent airflow. So far I have not read any report from any pilot on the Wii thread to say the BARO was a good investment

It has to be combined with the Z axis of the ACC - Ciskje was working on this with Alex last I heard. So yes the software is running for BARO but it's not exiting! Not like the new LEVELmode in 1.7. Make sure you have an ACC - you will love it.

The ACC LEVEL mode will give you MikroKopter MK style flying at 1/10 th the price.

Thanks for all the answers! really love this thread as it is, still, in a small scale, the other thread is growing so fast you cant keep track of all the replyīs and all discussions thatīs going on.i will try to contribute of all the knowledge i devour here

could you show a picture where you point to the vcc and gnd in ? cuz the points are so close, and the text on the board shifts from, above, under and left and right,, i have some idea what i think is right, but i donīt want to get cute with the board and make a guess :P

and i for the telemetry thing, i have Spektrum DX8, it already got it. rx power and mainpack power. but it do not show each cell, is that often a problem ?

i havenīt got a chance to even try-start my quad, but i read something about, and i cant find it any more, that you have to do some calibrating with the ESC each pre flight ?

hehe as of now, i see the populated Paris board V3 is Out of stock.. business is blooming

and again, thanks!
Apr 11, 2011, 11:10 AM
My RC builds in my profile.
daign's Avatar
got one in the mail right now.
Apr 11, 2011, 11:14 AM
My RC builds in my profile.
daign's Avatar
My aurora 9 has SPC power which is basically a BEC that supports up to 28v and drops it down to 6v. This function also allows me to see main lipo voltages on the aircraft on the transmitter.

I could disconnect all the positive lines from the ESCs then correct?
Apr 11, 2011, 11:41 AM
Registered User
I posted this a few days ago, but no one seems to have encountered this particular issue:

----
I soldered up the arduino pro mini and WMP clone to a Paris 2.0 board and fired up multiwiiconf with a receiver and tx powered up.

Gyro looks fine and the roll and pitch values change with tx input, but for some reason the the throttle/yaw doesn't respond. If I turn the tx off, though, all the channel inputs go crazy (as 72mhz ppm Rxs usually do) and I can see values changing in the throttle/yaw. So the throttle channel is getting something from the rx. I've bumped all the travel limits to 125%, but that doesn't help.
Apr 11, 2011, 02:24 PM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
1.6 is proven software

1.7Beta came out and we were all amazed at how much better the mode LEVEL was coded - a BIG improvement - so many are flying with it - even though it's Beta Software because it's basically honey to a bear. Irresistible.


1.7p1 first version of 1.7beta Alex called it 1.7pre
1.7p2 second version of 1.7beta Alex called it 1.7prebis
1.7p3 third version of 1.7beta Alex called it 1.7preter

Alex receives BUG reports and new code from other contributors on the MultiWii.com site and checks them out for veracity; then alters the code and, if he is still wanting feedback - he releases another BETA for testing.

That clears it up for me! Thanks

Tom
Apr 11, 2011, 03:24 PM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar

Uploading MultiWii files to board?


I have a question about these files and in the order which they are to be uploaded to the Paris or warthox boards. (I am trying to load the 1_7 version)

I have read the cheat sheet and it does not talk about when to upload the corresponding sister version MultiWiiConf1_preter7.pde file using the Arduino App. ???

Do I (first) upload (MultiWii1_preter7.pde) code to my warthox or Paris boards using the Arduino App... (second) After it is done uploading... do I then upload (MultiWiiConf1_preter7.pde)???

After that is done uploading that will allow me to run the JAVA-config GUI App. (MultiWiiConf1_preter7.exe)

Am I correct in my thinking?

Thanks
Tom
Last edited by Huskiemuskie; Apr 11, 2011 at 08:57 PM.
Apr 11, 2011, 08:47 PM
Registered User
What is the difference between the Paris and the Warthox?
Apr 11, 2011, 10:59 PM
Registered User
Thanks for starting this thread Quinton!

I agree with GTX, Alex is doing some great work, but that thread is down to minutiae and the bigger details are hard to ferret out of that volume of information.

"exit the flight envelope"

I think this has got to be the best term for falling out of the sky I've ever heard

Gene
Apr 12, 2011, 01:46 AM
gtx
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskiemuskie
Do I (first) upload (MultiWii1_preter7.pde) code to my warthox or Paris boards using the Arduino App... (second) After it is done uploading... do I then upload (MultiWiiConf1_preter7.pde)???
After that is done uploading that will allow me to run the JAVA-config GUI App. (MultiWiiConf1_preter7.exe)
Am I correct in my thinking?
Thanks
Tom
the MultiWiiConf1_preter7.pde is the "understanding file" for the GUI preter 7.exe

only one file that needs to be uploaded to the board.
Apr 12, 2011, 03:40 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx
Thanks for all the answers! really love this thread as it is, still, in a small scale, the other thread is growing so fast you cant keep track of all the replyīs and all discussions thatīs going on.i will try to contribute of all the knowledge i devour here

could you show a picture where you point to the vcc and gnd in ? cuz the points are so close, and the text on the board shifts from, above, under and left and right,, i have some idea what i think is right, but i donīt want to get cute with the board and make a guess :P

and i for the telemetry thing, i have Spektrum DX8, it already got it. rx power and mainpack power. but it do not show each cell, is that often a problem ?

i havenīt got a chance to even try-start my quad, but i read something about, and i cant find it any more, that you have to do some calibrating with the ESC each pre flight ?

hehe as of now, i see the populated Paris board V3 is Out of stock.. business is blooming

and again, thanks!
GTX - LiPo telemetry - with LiPos one cell always dives before the others - so total voltage and buzzers won't drill down to warn you of one low cell - That's why the Quanum system is good. Once a cell has been taken too low that entire LiPo is a risk.
Apr 12, 2011, 03:46 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris24g
I posted this a few days ago, but no one seems to have encountered this particular issue:

----
I soldered up the arduino pro mini and WMP clone to a Paris 2.0 board and fired up multiwiiconf with a receiver and tx powered up.

Gyro looks fine and the roll and pitch values change with tx input, but for some reason the the throttle/yaw doesn't respond. If I turn the tx off, though, all the channel inputs go crazy (as 72mhz ppm Rxs usually do) and I can see values changing in the throttle/yaw. So the throttle channel is getting something from the rx. I've bumped all the travel limits to 125%, but that doesn't help.
@chris24g - try a different Rx. or try to hook up 4 servos to the same Rx - that's very unusual - what you are reporting - Maybe the Rx is getting some interference from the USB connection or the FTDI. If you have a 72mhz system and can remove the module - then I would recommend the FrSky 2.4ghz PPM system - http://www.rangevideo.com/index.php?...index&cPath=62

I have actually removed all my JR/Futaba original 2.4Ghz modules and replaced them with FrSky - it's cheaper and superior
Apr 12, 2011, 03:49 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskiemuskie
I have a question about these files and in the order which they are to be uploaded to the Paris or warthox boards. (I am trying to load the 1_7 version)

I have read the cheat sheet and it does not talk about when to upload the corresponding sister version MultiWiiConf1_preter7.pde file using the Arduino App. ???

Do I (first) upload (MultiWii1_preter7.pde) code to my warthox or Paris boards using the Arduino App... (second) After it is done uploading... do I then upload (MultiWiiConf1_preter7.pde)???

After that is done uploading that will allow me to run the JAVA-config GUI App. (MultiWiiConf1_preter7.exe)

Am I correct in my thinking?

Thanks
Tom
At Huskiemuskie - The .pde file is the code that gets loaded by the Arduino22 software. Close it - then run the JavaConfig application (program) that runs the GUI. That other file is used by the JAVA app to run itself. Essentially it just sits there waiting to be read by the GUI (don't load it yourself)
Apr 12, 2011, 04:00 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by milo12
What is the difference between the Paris and the Warthox?
@ Milo12 - The warthox was built to allow you to build a Tricopter or a Quad and not have any wires crossing directly over/under the board. The ESC pins have been placed/duplicated so you can run a Quad+; A Quad X or a Tricopter and the pins are where the motors are at. This also saves having to extend ESc wires from 2 of the ESCs. I run a warthox on my Tricopter and my indoor size QuadX. I am putting a warthox on my HobbyKing quad. Originally warthox did not have Cam1 and Cam2 pins - but since HK released the frame and cheaper FPV gear it seemed crazy not to include these in the warthox for FPV.

The PARIS is aimed at Y6 or HEX or bigger DSLR AP copters where all the wires will run in a single loom. PARIS also has dual I2C hard points so you can add extra sensors like BARO and MAG either above or below the board(especially since 1.7 now offers the code improvement for this) - BARO is for high hover ops - take it up to 400' and hover over your head and the BARO can hold it +/_ 2m and the LEVEL mode keeps it level. PARIS also has the external 2k2 Pullups you will need for 3v3 sensors built in - they are activated by soldering the pads closed. I run PARIS in my Y6 and HEX AP copters.
Apr 12, 2011, 05:11 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
At Huskiemuskie - The .pde file is the code that gets loaded by the Arduino22 software. Close it - then run the JavaConfig application (program) that runs the GUI. That other file is used by the JAVA app to run itself. Essentially it just sits there waiting to be read by the GUI (don't load it yourself)
I understand! Thanks so much!

Cheers
tom
Apr 12, 2011, 08:18 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
The PARIS is aimed at Y6 or HEX or bigger DSLR AP copters where all the wires will run in a single loom.
Does this mean that it will be more difficult to set up for a standard "Y" tricopter?
Apr 12, 2011, 08:39 AM
Registered User
Thanks. When do you expect to have the Paris back in stock?

Is the control software and hardware the same between the Paris and Warthox. What is being used in these videos?
mwc y6 - how to kill a battery (2 min 52 sec)
Apr 12, 2011, 09:31 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx
the MultiWiiConf1_preter7.pde is the "understanding file" for the GUI preter 7.exe

only one file that needs to be uploaded to the board.

Thanks GTX!

tom
Apr 12, 2011, 09:53 AM
Registered User
nicnaimless's Avatar
I have two of the plug-n-Play Paris boards coming. I have a bit to learn yet and Quinton has already been a huge support in answering my questions.

Board 1 will be set up for a heavy lifting Y6. Board 2 is set for Quad X and it's mission in the world will be to act as the camera stabalization. This board will be 100% isolated from Board 1 as it's going to be mounted on my 3 axis camera gimbal.

I'll post pick and all the question/solutions I encounter as I journey into the arduino driven multicopter world.
Apr 12, 2011, 09:56 AM
Firefox
Firefox675's Avatar
It looks like 1.7 is a full version now, no longer beta, as of this morning.

How do you download and save these files ?

thanks
Apr 12, 2011, 05:59 PM
Registered User
Goofy23's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
Pull ups - If you are running a WiiMP and a Nunchuk - then you don't need to know anything about pull-ups under 1.7p,1.7p2 or 1.7p3 - the default is all set correctly.

If you want to go advanced and run mixed voltages and sensors - like a BARO BMA085 or BMA180(3v3 device), with a MP+(5v or 3v3 device) on a 5v ProMini board - then the pull up pad on the PARIS v3.0 need to be solder closed. This is because the I2C lines will be too high for the BARO or BMA180 which both have a 3.8v limit on their I2C data lines. When you buy an advance sensor - study the spec sheet that is supplied with that sensor. if they specify 3v3 then it's not enough to just connect Vcc to 3v3 - the SDA and SCL lines need to be pulled-up (to positive 3v3) to keep them safe.
You may should mention that in the case the 3.3V pullups are activated/jumper closed the internal pullups have to be deactivated in software, otherwise they will still bring the 5V to the datalines.
Have in mind the FFIMU allready have pullups on it, so adding some 2.2K will may bring the I2C Datalines out of their specs, its better to leave the jumper open for the FFIMU, most important is to deactivate the internal 5V pullups.
To make it more clear
If you use
-WMP+ Nun. leave it open
-WMP+ BMA020 leave it open
- FFIMU leave it open
leave it open means dont activate the pullups on your BOB, which sholud cover 95% of the usage.They are only usable if you connect a sensor to it which dont have pullups on board (seldon case).
Last edited by Goofy23; Apr 12, 2011 at 07:16 PM.
Apr 12, 2011, 07:05 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by milo12
Thanks. When do you expect to have the Paris back in stock?

Is the control software and hardware the same between the Paris and Warthox. What is being used in these videos? http://vimeo.com/21854233
Milo - The control software is the same for all WiiCopters - anybody modifying their code is required to share it back under the GNU 3 licence. If you look at 2:25 on that Y6 warthox is using my v1 warthox board I sent him in return for his help. It's set up as a MP+ only - I would like to point out that warthox spends time doing light-weight/accurate and precise builds with very well balanced props/matched ESC and motors - he makes it look easy but he also invests 100's of hours flying time to get his flying to this level! Uses only a MP+ (original).
Apr 12, 2011, 07:15 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox675
It looks like 1.7 is a full version now, no longer beta, as of this morning.

How do you download and save these files ?

thanks
@FireFox - go to Code storage at google http://code.google.com/p/multiwii/so...se/#svn%2Ftags
click on 1.7 then press the bottom right link which say "view RAW file"
Apr 12, 2011, 07:33 PM
I'll fly anything...
Efliernz's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
@ Milo12 - The warthox was built to allow you to build a Tricopter or a Quad and not have any wires crossing directly over/under the board. The ESC pins have been placed/duplicated so you can run a Quad+; A Quad X or a Tricopter and the pins are where the motors are at. This also saves having to extend ESc wires from 2 of the ESCs. I run a warthox on my Tricopter and my indoor size QuadX. I am putting a warthox on my HobbyKing quad. Originally warthox did not have Cam1 and Cam2 pins - but since HK released the frame and cheaper FPV gear it seemed crazy not to include these in the warthox for FPV.

The PARIS is aimed at Y6 or HEX or bigger DSLR AP copters where all the wires will run in a single loom. PARIS also has dual I2C hard points so you can add extra sensors like BARO and MAG either above or below the board(especially since 1.7 now offers the code improvement for this) - BARO is for high hover ops - take it up to 400' and hover over your head and the BARO can hold it +/_ 2m and the LEVEL mode keeps it level. PARIS also has the external 2k2 Pullups you will need for 3v3 sensors built in - they are activated by soldering the pads closed. I run PARIS in my Y6 and HEX AP copters.

I have the Paris v3.0 complete board - loaded with Tri software (10 days ago) and I'm about to start the build. While it is aimed at the larger machine, I presume it is still ok for a 1.5Kg tricopter build? I certainly hope so!!!

Pete
Apr 12, 2011, 07:53 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofy23
You may should mention that in the case the 3.3V pullups are activated/jumper closed the internal pullups have to be deactivated in software, otherwise they will still bring the 5V to the datalines.
Have in mind the FFIMU allready have pullups on it, so adding some 2.2K will may bring the I2C Datalines out of their specs, its better to leave the jumper open for the FFIMU, most important is to deactivate the internal 5V pullups.
To make it more clear
If you use
-WMP+ Nun. leave it open
-WMP+ BMA020 leave it open
- FFIMU leave it open
leave it open means dont activate the pullups on your BOB, which sholud cover 95% of the usage.They are only usable if you connect a sensor to it which dont have pullups on board (seldon case).
Correct - As per post #12 , my comment under the photo - generally nothing is required for pullups with normal MP and NK - If you buy other sensors - After reading all your specs for those other sensors (or IMU with it's spec sheet) if you need to activate the 2k2 pullups -go to the Code window in Arduino22 (as an advanced user or a clever Noob) to comment out that line in the Wii code - I have made an animation to make it clear which is for 5v and which is for 3v3 on my wiki here



Fabio Fax 8 has a very nice IMU called FreeIMU 0.3 with the LLC built in here

Please remember a lot of this stuff is in the techno-pipeline, early proto stages - and the humble MP+ is all it takes to fly like warthox
Last edited by AlouetteIII; Apr 12, 2011 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Animation I have made - for 5v and 3v3 - now added in
Apr 12, 2011, 07:53 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by CenTexFlyer
Does this mean that it will be more difficult to set up for a standard "Y" tricopter?
I hope not, I have a Paris on the way loaded for a standard tri I would think it should be straight forward with the exception of the yaw servo. I opt for this board for the ability to grow after I get on the other side of the learning curve


Mike
Apr 12, 2011, 07:57 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Efliernz
I have the Paris v3.0 complete board - loaded with Tri software (10 days ago) and I'm about to start the build. While it is aimed at the larger machine, I presume it is still ok for a 1.5Kg tricopter build? I certainly hope so!!!

Pete
@eFlyerNZ - sure PARIS is OK for tricopter if you prefer it - for tricopter you will most likely need to reverse the yaw servo in code to -1 - see my wiki if not sure how to do this.

I also recommend you get the new 1.7 which came out yesterday - very good stuff.
Apr 12, 2011, 08:17 PM
Registered User
Goofy23's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
T
Pull ups - If you are running a WiiMP and a Nunchuk - then you don't need to know anything about pull-ups under 1.7p,1.7p2 or 1.7p3 - the default is all set correctly.

If you want to go advanced and run mixed voltages and sensors - like a BARO BMA085 or BMA180(3v3 device), with a MP+(5v or 3v3 device) on a 5v ProMini board - then the pull up pad on the PARIS v3.0 need to be solder closed. This is because the I2C lines will be too high for the BARO or BMA180 which both have a 3.8v limit on their I2C data lines. When you buy an advance sensor - study the spec sheet that is supplied with that sensor. if they specify 3v3 then it's not enough to just connect Vcc to 3v3 - the SDA and SCL lines need to be pulled-up (to positive 3v3) to keep them safe.
Yes i read it, but it can be easily misunderstood.
Simply connecting the pullups on your board didnt change anything on the voltage on the I2C lines if the internal pullups are still switched on in the multiwii soft.
And its also important to mention that all values will be caculated, so a 3.3K and a 2.2K you will get 1.32K as the value for the pullups, may too low and outside the specs.
Its like with water, so you may can imagine.
Just want to save the sensors from beeing destroyed.
Apr 12, 2011, 09:06 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicnaimless
I have two of the plug-n-Play Paris boards coming. I have a bit to learn yet and Quinton has already been a huge support in answering my questions.

Board 1 will be set up for a heavy lifting Y6. Board 2 is set for Quad X and it's mission in the world will be to act as the camera stabalization. This board will be 100% isolated from Board 1 as it's going to be mounted on my 3 axis camera gimbal.

I'll post pick and all the question/solutions I encounter as I journey into the arduino driven multicopter world.
Nicaimless - This will be a VERY interesting build! Please keep us informed. 1.7 Fullversion has been released while your Fedex is still in the air - so when they arrive I recommend you upload the full 1.7 version
Apr 12, 2011, 10:09 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofy23
Yes i read it, but it can be easily misunderstood.
Simply connecting the pullups on your board didnt change anything on the voltage on the I2C lines if the internal pullups are still switched on in the multiwii soft.
And its also important to mention that all values will be caculated, so a 3.3K and a 2.2K you will get 1.32K as the value for the pullups, may too low and outside the specs.
Its like with water, so you may can imagine.
Just want to save the sensors from beeing destroyed.
Thanks -parallel resistor theory - No matter how many times we forum discuss the issues - the Arduino Wiicode comment line itself is not clear - I recommend AlexinParis changes the code COMMENT to say -
//Activate the pull up resistors to set the SCL SDA output high 5v - default setting -; then -
//comment the pullups to set the SCL SDA output low 3v3
Apr 12, 2011, 11:29 PM
Registered User
Goofy23's Avatar
Yes good idea, but the only problem will be that the lines are not automaticaly 3.3V, so it wouldnt be a good idea to say its 3v3 when its commented.
A simple
//comment to disable the pullups
may be better.
As you surely know the voltage is defined by its pullup resistor.
Ok if you soldered the jumpers you have the 3v3 on it, but if you f.e. connect a BMA020 and solder it as mentioned in the shematics you will also have the unwanted 5V on the I2C, so be carefull guys.
But i am sure you will explain.
Apr 13, 2011, 12:45 AM
Registered User
nicnaimless's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
Nicaimless - This will be a VERY interesting build! Please keep us informed. 1.7 Fullversion has been released while your Fedex is still in the air - so when they arrive I recommend you upload the full 1.7 version
I will upgrade to full version right away. Thanks.
Apr 13, 2011, 01:26 AM
My RC builds in my profile.
daign's Avatar
so can the paris support 3 axis stabilization or only 2?

Just ordered a 3 axis gimbal to attach to my gopro tab
Apr 13, 2011, 03:00 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by daign
so can the paris support 3 axis stabilization or only 2?

Just ordered a 3 axis gimbal to attach to my gopro tab
One PARIS 328 can support up to 4 engines and compute 2 axis gimbal at the same time

Add a 2nd PARIS board as per nicnaimless post #34 below and you can have one board fly six engines and the other fly the 3 axis camera gimbal - with retractable skids too - a Y cable or even better a second pilot wearing FPV and his own turnigy9X - the copilot will not even need any pilot experience - could be your friend or your girlfriend
Apr 13, 2011, 05:44 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar

Motors spin low rpm @ arming?


Just got New Paris board (plug & play) for TRI. My first try to test. Connected FTDI to the PARIS With props off TRI, Made connection with GUI (OK) no problems. Tri is talking to GUI. I connect main ship batts ESCs power up (chimes). I arm (right stick down to right) the Paris arms (works fine). I advance throttle motors start. System seems fine. Expect YAW servo needs reversed. I then download... the just released 1_7 open it in the Arduino App and make change to #define YAW_DIRECTION -1. Uploaded the change. Quit Arduino App. Opened GUI again to monitor the system and check the if servo reversed, it worked. Connected main ship batt ESCs power up. I arm again and as soon as the green lights come on the motors start spinning at low rpm?????? Went back in and changed #define MINCOMMAND 1000 to 900 with no effect.

Current settings: #define MINCOMMAND 900, #define YAW_DIRECTION -1, #define MINTHROTTLE 1120 // for Super Simple ESCs 10A

My equipment: ESCs Turnigy Plush 18A, Motors HK DT-700, Futaba T10CAG 2.4GHz/R617FS

Please help I am confused and flustrated. The same thing is happening on my new warthox as well. Am I missing something?

Thanks
tom
Apr 13, 2011, 05:56 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskiemuskie
Just got New Paris board (plug & play) for TRI. My first try to test. Connected FTDI to the PARIS With props off TRI, Made connection with GUI (OK) no problems. Tri is talking to GUI. I connect main ship batts ESCs power up (chimes). I arm (right stick down to right) the Paris arms (works fine). I advance throttle motors start. System seems fine. Expect YAW servo needs reversed. I then download... the just released 1_7 open it in the Arduino App and make change to #define YAW_DIRECTION -1. Uploaded the change. Quit Arduino App. Opened GUI again to monitor the system and check the if servo reversed, it worked. Connected main ship batt ESCs power up. I arm again and as soon as the green lights come on the motors start spinning at low rpm?????? Went back in and changed #define MINCOMMAND 1000 to 900 with no effect.

Current settings: #define MINCOMMAND 900, #define YAW_DIRECTION -1, #define MINTHROTTLE 1120 // for Super Simple ESCs 10A

My equipment: ESCs Turnigy Plush 18A, Motors HK DT-700, Futaba T10CAG 2.4GHz/R617FS

Please help I am confused and flustrated. The same thing is happening on my new warthox as well. Am I missing something?

Thanks
tom
@huskiemuskie - If you prefer to NOT have the props spinning on arm - Wii default - then do this
scroll down to //#DEFINE MOTOR_STOP
change it to #DEFINE MOTOR_STOP

After arming and starting and just before take-off trim up on the Tx throttle about 5 blips - It's actually much safer - because you cannot accidently disarm in flight.
Apr 13, 2011, 09:19 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
@huskiemuskie - If you prefer to NOT have the props spinning on arm - Wii default - then do this
scroll down to //#DEFINE MOTOR_STOP
change it to #DEFINE MOTOR_STOP

After arming and starting and just before take-off trim up on the Tx throttle about 5 blips - It's actually much safer - because you cannot accidently disarm in flight.

@ AlouetteIII---- Wii default? not sure what this is? Is it in Getting Started & understanding RC Safety - MultiWiiCopters ?

Sooo it sounds like low rpm motor spinning at ARMING is a prefectly normal function... if you prefer... Correct ?

I am used to the KK boards... they did not do that at ARMING...

Thanks !!!!
Apr 13, 2011, 10:29 AM
Firefox
Firefox675's Avatar
Just received my V3 Paris boards and have a few basic hookup questions, photos included,

The BEC /Ground as pictured below. Is this for an external BEC to be connected and are the BEC and ground connections as I have them labeled ?

On the LED connection as pictured below, which is for the cathode and which is for the anode, assuming this is for direct attachment of a LED ?

NICK5 = elevator ?

Are there any issues mounting the Arduino using header sockets ?

These questions are probably answered somewhere but I'll ask here anyway.

thanks
Last edited by Firefox675; Apr 13, 2011 at 11:08 AM.
Apr 13, 2011, 01:53 PM
Registered User
Hi AlouetteIII

Will this be a good setup for the paris v3 board?


My plan is to make 10 boards for a friend that fly fpv for living He need some spear parts if he is in the field and something goes wrong.

I have only built the multiwii with wmp and nk so far but for this job I need something more professional I think
Apr 13, 2011, 02:23 PM
Suspended Account
^^
Thanks for the post...I sent an email recently wondering if a Paris/SparkFun board could be considered. I would like to build a Paris/SparkFun with SF: Gyro, Acc, and Mag (and possibly Baro if it works out).
Apr 13, 2011, 02:43 PM
Registered User
Goofy23's Avatar
just for your information, there is a all in one solution for the sensors.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...58869&page=103
Will be avaiable in 2 weeks, i think.
Apr 13, 2011, 03:10 PM
Suspended Account
^^
Thanks, I am aware of your work and I must say it looks very good! I am hoping Quinton will make a version of his round board that is somewhat in the same direction of the all-in-one board(s) but with SparkFun components.
Apr 13, 2011, 03:23 PM
gtx
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox675
Just received my V3 Paris boards and have a few basic hookup questions, photos included,

The BEC /Ground as pictured below. Is this for an external BEC to be connected and are the BEC and ground connections as I have them labeled ?

On the LED connection as pictured below, which is for the cathode and which is for the anode, assuming this is for direct attachment of a LED ?

NICK5 = elevator ?

Are there any issues mounting the Arduino using header sockets ?

These questions are probably answered somewhere but I'll ask here anyway.

thanks
wondering the same thing about the bec +/gnd, the labels are strangely put. and its bad to make guess :P
Apr 13, 2011, 03:36 PM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox675
Just received my V3 Paris boards and have a few basic hookup questions, photos included,

The BEC /Ground as pictured below. Is this for an external BEC to be connected and are the BEC and ground connections as I have them labeled ?

On the LED connection as pictured below, which is for the cathode and which is for the anode, assuming this is for direct attachment of a LED ?

NICK5 = elevator ?

Are there any issues mounting the Arduino using header sockets ?

These questions are probably answered somewhere but I'll ask here anyway.

thanks
Nick=Pitch
From looking at the photo, which looks the same across all versions (if you look on the "back" of the board) you'll see - follows around the outside of the board, followed by + and then ~ being the most inner.

I hooked up a UBEC to the area in question, so I hope that is right?
Hope that helps, but I would wait on confirmation from Quinton so as no magic smoke is released from my advice
Apr 13, 2011, 07:08 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskiemuskie
@ AlouetteIII---- Wii default? not sure what this is? Is it in Getting Started & understanding RC Safety - MultiWiiCopters ?

Sooo it sounds like low rpm motor spinning at ARMING is a prefectly normal function... if you prefer... Correct ?

I am used to the KK boards... they did not do that at ARMING...

Thanks !!!!
@HuskieMuskie - The default code is a good place to start. Some of the things in the default code are not what I use. Alter your code then save it on your PC the way you like to run your Copter.

I personally don't like the auto-start props and always change to #define MOTOR_STOP. Just before take-off I trim up my throttle Tx trim 5 clicks - this way I am 100% confident that I cannot accidentally disarm the copter inflight - I still use the minTHRO - different for each ESC/Motor combination
Apr 13, 2011, 07:09 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Holy crap!!! Only three days to get here from Austrailia!! You must have sent it via F-16


Now that I have it, your paper says the board is running 1.7 (preter) would you recommend upgrading the firmware or can I just run with it

Thanks!


Mike
Apr 13, 2011, 07:19 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox675
Just received my V3 Paris boards and have a few basic hookup questions, photos included,

The BEC /Ground as pictured below. Is this for an external BEC to be connected and are the BEC and ground connections as I have them labeled ?

On the LED connection as pictured below, which is for the cathode and which is for the anode, assuming this is for direct attachment of a LED ?

NICK5 = elevator ?

Are there any issues mounting the Arduino using header sockets ?

These questions are probably answered somewhere but I'll ask here anyway.

thanks
@ FireFox - Yes all your yellow text is correct. The Nick thing is a EURO speak version which AlexinParis refers to - so I have a decode for that in this diagram from my wiki page for AU and USA pilots

I don't recommend sockets or use them myself but a lot of people are happy and do use them; including my brother who has a Masters in EE! My argument which I put forward is that in a 100% fly by wire system a soldered joint is my choice. This is also the reason why I use thicker 2mm boards and triple thickness copper so the chances of a cracked joint are minimised following any 'incident' whilst exploring the limits of the flight envelope!

cheers Quinton

Apr 13, 2011, 07:34 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by culexus
Hi AlouetteIII

Will this be a good setup for the paris v3 board?


My plan is to make 10 boards for a friend that fly fpv for living He need some spear parts if he is in the field and something goes wrong.

I have only built the multiwii with wmp and nk so far but for this job I need something more professional I think
@Culexus - I think your combo of 3200 and BMA180 is very smart - it makes maximium use of the 1.7 software without over capitalising on 'experimental' sensors like MAG which are not fully supported until future version of the software - If you do high altitude hovering directly above your take off position then the BARO static tolerance errors of 2m will not be noticed and the $20 for BARO will be worth it - hopefully Ciskje/Alex can include the Z-axis data from the ACC to improve these fluctuations for lower Ops, in version 1.8 coming...

Its interesting to see warthox videos where complex boards flying with no real improvement over the original Gyro/ACC boards - just more complexity onboard. I don't see the point of a BARO demo in a low hover - it just shows the 2m tolence of atmosphere static sensors - low hover would require additional info from an ultrasonic IMO.
Apr 13, 2011, 07:44 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by power
Holy crap!!! Only three days to get here from Austrailia!! You must have sent it via F-16


Now that I have it, your paper says the board is running 1.7 (preter) would you recommend upgrading the firmware or can I just run with it

Thanks!


Mike
@Power - I think it flew on the big red kangaroo bird - Qantas!
Run the GUI and capture the screen for the settings - Yes I would change to 1.7 after the maiden - reason not to do it before is it may introduce another variable from the default code like the Tri-servo. Either that or I can send you the code with your preferred settings - if you modify your own - then for the Tricopter tail servo needs to be reversed to -1 in most cases (some have digital servos - programmable rev)
Apr 13, 2011, 09:33 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Very timely info guys Mine also arrived today, which is nearly astonishing! I've already got it installing in a custom frame, but no peeking until maybe tomorrow

Cheers,
Rusty
Apr 14, 2011, 12:44 AM
Firefox
Firefox675's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
@ FireFox - Yes all your yellow text is correct. The Nick thing is a EURO speak version which AlexinParis refers to - so I have a decode for that in this diagram from my wiki page for AU and USA pilots

I don't recommend sockets or use them myself but a lot of people are happy and do use them; including my brother who has a Masters in EE! My argument which I put forward is that in a 100% fly by wire system a soldered joint is my choice. This is also the reason why I use thicker 2mm boards and triple thickness copper so the chances of a cracked joint are minimised following any 'incident' whilst exploring the limits of the flight envelope!

cheers Quinton

Thanks for the reply.

Does my being correct include the anode/cathode question ?

thanks for this thread too
Apr 14, 2011, 12:53 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox675
Thanks for the reply.

Does my being correct include the anode/cathode question ?

thanks for this thread too
@FireFox - Yes that's all good - anode/+ve/longer wire on a LED exactly as you have it marked in your yellow text - thanks for that
Apr 14, 2011, 02:43 AM
MultiRotor Jedi
simonjardine's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3
Very timely info guys Mine also arrived today, which is nearly astonishing! I've already got it installing in a custom frame, but no peeking until maybe tomorrow

Cheers,
Rusty
Custom frame? The boards arrived all ready
This is a true plug and fly system, follow the wiki, one thing i noticed is that to start the motors you have to trim back throttle (nothing new) however when in ACC mode and you want to trim using stick banging, remember to trim the throttle back up some so that you can trim the ACC.
Looking forward to flying Wii more, acro is fun.

Simon
Apr 14, 2011, 05:25 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
@HuskieMuskie - The default code is a good place to start. Some of the things in the default code are not what I use. Alter your code then save it on your PC the way you like to run your Copter.

I personally don't like the auto-start props and always change to #define MOTOR_STOP. Just before take-off I trim up my throttle Tx trim 5 clicks - this way I am 100% confident that I cannot accidentally disarm the copter inflight - I still use the minTHRO - different for each ESC/Motor combination
@ AlouetteIII.....Understood THANKS!

Cheers
Tom
Apr 14, 2011, 07:58 AM
Registered User
nicnaimless's Avatar
Received my boards yesterday too!!!

Excellent packaging and the boards look great! This should be an entertaining weekend!
Apr 14, 2011, 11:38 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar

TRIcopter Arming & Disarming 1.7


In (Wiki MultiWii) cheat sheets using the (TRI.Copter Arming) section it tells you to use the cyclic stick (1.7 multiWii software) to arm and disarm the Paris or warthox(down right and left respectively) Which it does work.

But my question/comment is... I can also arm/disarm with the YAW stick (down right and left) as well... Is that normal for it to do that? It actually lets me arm/disarm with left or right stick???
Is that a problem?


Thanks
Last edited by Huskiemuskie; Apr 14, 2011 at 04:59 PM.
Apr 14, 2011, 03:51 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskiemuskie
In (Wiki MultiWii) cheat sheets using the (TRI.Copter Arming) section it tells you to use the cyclic stick (1.7 multiWii software) to arm and disarm the Paris or warthox(down right and left respectively) Which it does work.

But my question/comment is... I can also arm/disarm with the YAW stick (down right and left) as well... Is that normal for it to do that? Is that a problem?

Thanks

I was wondering the same thing after reading the Wiki..

Mike
Apr 14, 2011, 08:32 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII

Run the GUI and capture the screen for the settings - Yes I would change to 1.7 after the maiden - reason not to do it before is it may introduce another variable from the default code like the Tri-servo.
Greetings,

My board came with 1.7 preter loaded, and I intend to try to heed your advice to first fly it as is. I made a quick attempt to connect to the GUI today, but the only GUI version I have is the release 1.7. Should that read the 1.7 preter version on the Arduino, or do I need a 1.7 preter GUI version?

If I need a 1.7 preter version of the GUI, is that posted somewhere? I only saw the release version of 1.7.

Thanks,
Rusty
Apr 14, 2011, 10:49 PM
AMA 46133
Hello,

I just received my board today. That sure was a pleasant surprise. I was expecting to have a boring afternoon.

Ok, I managed to arm it and flew it in my living room. However I think I better get some clarification before I get in trouble.

I am flying quad in X form. The cheat sheet on my board said V1.7 full. The Preter was scratched off.

I am flying a Spektrum DX 7 for now with a AR6100 receiver.

1) The BIG green LED flashes a bit differently then what the cheat sheet said. When I plugged in the power the LED flashed really fast for a second or so then it slow down and flashed for maybe five times (I don't count that well). Then it went off completely.

In the meantime my ESCs are beeping like they are full armed. However they won't spin the motor if I advance the throttle stick at this point.

Now I can arm the controller by moving the yaw stick to full right while the throttle stick is full low. (Throttle channel is normal yaw channel is reversed.)

2) My servos are Throttle = normal, Roll = reversed, Nick = normal and yaw = reversed.

3) No matter what I do I cannot disarm or get the green LED to go off.

4) I tried to do the gyro calibration but without success. I tried it before arming the ESCs and I tried it after I armed the ESC. I put the two control sticks to the left and right extreme. Yaw stick low and left, roll stick low and right. Nothing happens and no flashes from the green LED.

5) I am using channel 5, a two position switch as gain/mode control. I have travel volume set to something like 85 percent on both ends of the switch. I don't know when the autolevel is on and when it is not.

6) The machine like to yaw to the left a lot. I use rudder sub trim to a point that the two counter rotating motors 3 and 9 starts up a lot later then the other to motors and it is not pretty neutral but it does drift a bit in yaw.

It does fly and it is pretty stable. I have not taken it outside to wring it out yet but in my living room it flew fine.

Thank you very much for any help.
Apr 15, 2011, 12:17 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskiemuskie
In (Wiki MultiWii) cheat sheets using the (TRI.Copter Arming) section it tells you to use the cyclic stick (1.7 multiWii software) to arm and disarm the Paris or warthox(down right and left respectively) Which it does work.

But my question/comment is... I can also arm/disarm with the YAW stick (down right and left) as well... Is that normal for it to do that? It actually lets me arm/disarm with left or right stick???
Is that a problem?


Thanks
I think I solved it... I was just a matter of changing some end points on the rudder ch. I can now cal gyros... it would not before because of this issue. It also now only arm/disarm with cyclic stick.

Maybe some test flights tomorrow. Hopefully no wind
Apr 15, 2011, 09:16 AM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Questions are starting to pile up a bit in my head.


First...will the ACC/Nunchuk retain the settings after the learn/trim settings are made?? I hope so, this is a lot to remember on site as there is a lot of calibrating and trimming if we have to do this everytime we take off.


Thanks,

Mike
Apr 15, 2011, 10:59 AM
13brv3's Avatar
FYI, the release version of 1.7 config GUI works fine with the 1.7preter software. The problem I had was due to insufficient magnification. In other words, I grabbed the 3.3V FTDI instead of the 5V FTDI

Rusty
Apr 15, 2011, 07:09 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskiemuskie
In (Wiki MultiWii) cheat sheets using the (TRI.Copter Arming) section it tells you to use the cyclic stick (1.7 multiWii software) to arm and disarm the Paris or warthox(down right and left respectively) Which it does work.

But my question/comment is... I can also arm/disarm with the YAW stick (down right and left) as well... Is that normal for it to do that? It actually lets me arm/disarm with left or right stick???
Is that a problem?


Thanks
@HuskieMuskie - If you choose to leave the motors to start-on-arm (default code) -> then proceed to apply the yaw stick on a Tricopter to arm - you could possibly get a blade strike at the servo goes hard-over as the rear motor bursts into life! so the option to arm with either stick was added to recent code versions. If you change your code to #define MOTOR_STOP then you can use the yaw confidential as usual (I do this). After arming my Tricopter I then trim up using throttle trim by 5 clicks or so - this also prevents me from accidentally going into disarm in mid-flight (fast descent - high yaw at high altitude like at 200ft).
Apr 15, 2011, 07:44 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeismicCWave
Hello,

I just received my board today. That sure was a pleasant surprise. I was expecting to have a boring afternoon.

Ok, I managed to arm it and flew it in my living room. However I think I better get some clarification before I get in trouble.

I am flying quad in X form. The cheat sheet on my board said V1.7 full. The Preter was scratched off.

I am flying a Spektrum DX 7 for now with a AR6100 receiver.

1) The BIG green LED flashes a bit differently then what the cheat sheet said. When I plugged in the power the LED flashed really fast for a second or so then it slow down and flashed for maybe five times (I don't count that well). Then it went off completely.

In the meantime my ESCs are beeping like they are full armed. However they won't spin the motor if I advance the throttle stick at this point.

Now I can arm the controller by moving the yaw stick to full right while the throttle stick is full low. (Throttle channel is normal yaw channel is reversed.)

2) My servos are Throttle = normal, Roll = reversed, Nick = normal and yaw = reversed.

3) No matter what I do I cannot disarm or get the green LED to go off.

4) I tried to do the gyro calibration but without success. I tried it before arming the ESCs and I tried it after I armed the ESC. I put the two control sticks to the left and right extreme. Yaw stick low and left, roll stick low and right. Nothing happens and no flashes from the green LED.

5) I am using channel 5, a two position switch as gain/mode control. I have travel volume set to something like 85 percent on both ends of the switch. I don't know when the autolevel is on and when it is not.

6) The machine like to yaw to the left a lot. I use rudder sub trim to a point that the two counter rotating motors 3 and 9 starts up a lot later then the other to motors and it is not pretty neutral but it does drift a bit in yaw.

It does fly and it is pretty stable. I have not taken it outside to wring it out yet but in my living room it flew fine.

Thank you very much for any help.
@SeismicCWave - Your board was re-loaded with the new 1.7Full version about an hour after it was released worldwide - so I crossed out the Beta 1.7p3 it had been loaded with on your packing slip - and wrote full version - from memory

Your settings for Spektrum Tx are correct Ch2 and Ch4 are set to REV - If you set your RUDD TRAV to 105% (possibly 106%) for both L and Right it will disarm, and the GREEN led will go OFF. The gyro is already calibrated when you get it on a plug-n-play PARIS - but this will be the same reason -> set 105% TRAV for RUDD in the Tx.

The GEAR switch controls mode - the way to tell which mode it is in is to connect the GUI and flick the GEAR switch - ACTIVE means it is in LEVEL mode. 2nd way to tell is to hover - in ACRO mode it will NOT try to level itself - in LEVEL mode it will try to level itself when you release the sticks.

The yaw - ALL motors MUST always start at the same time (calibration of ESCs) - YAW is created by a torque-reaction differential - in other words the motors are sped up or slowed down in pairs ; RearL-FrontR(CCW11/10 pair) and RearR-FrontL(opposite pair CW 9/3) - It's not a good idea to have a lot of trim in RC - TRIM often masks a set-up issue - set your RUDD trim to neutral - So I would recommend you check the alignment of the motor shafts to the vertical - 3 and 9 (CW) sometimes need to be rotated clockwise from vertical by 3-5degrees (viewed from outer end of the arm toward the centre) - this is done by adding a washer on the engine mount for 3 and 9. Fly again - either add more washers or remove them until it hovers neutral with neutral trim.

Hawaii - wow - cool place to fly!

Quinton
Apr 15, 2011, 07:52 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by power
Questions are starting to pile up a bit in my head.


First...will the ACC/Nunchuk retain the settings after the learn/trim settings are made?? I hope so, this is a lot to remember on site as there is a lot of calibrating and trimming if we have to do this everytime we take off.


Thanks,

Mike
@power - Yes the calibration settings for Gyro and Acc and trimming of Acc are stored on the 328chip in EEPROM and retained even when the LiPo is disconnected.
Apr 15, 2011, 08:46 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Happy to report that the Paris board flew reasonably well as delivered. I can't imagine what it will be like if I read the directions this weekend

Seriously, it's a very cool board, and has a lot of potential.

Thanks,
Rusty
Apr 15, 2011, 08:59 PM
AMA 46133
>>Your settings for Spektrum Tx are correct Ch2 and Ch4 are set to REV - If you set your RUDD TRAV to 105% (possibly 106%) for both L and Right it will disarm, and the GREEN led will go OFF. The gyro is already calibrated when you get it on a plug-n-play PARIS - but this will be the same reason -> set 105% TRAV for RUDD in the Tx.<<

Thank you. After reading more on other's problem I did increase the travel volume on the rudder channel and managed to disarm the motors.

However I still cannot calibrate the gyro (that is the green LED will not flash) when I move my sticks to the lower and outer extremes. Is that proper with the plug and play board?

>>The GEAR switch controls mode - the way to tell which mode it is in is to connect the GUI and flick the GEAR switch - ACTIVE means it is in LEVEL mode. 2nd way to tell is to hover - in ACRO mode it will NOT try to level itself - in LEVEL mode it will try to level itself when you release the sticks.<<

I also managed to figure out the auto level mode on my gear switch. There is a definite difference in control.

>>The yaw - ALL motors MUST always start at the same time (calibration of ESCs) - YAW is created by a torque-reaction differential - in other words the motors are sped up or slowed down in pairs ; RearL-FrontR(CCW11/10 pair) and RearR-FrontL(opposite pair CW 9/3)<<

I do understand how the yaw motion is generated now. Thanks.

>> - It's not a good idea to have a lot of trim in RC - TRIM often masks a set-up issue - set your RUDD trim to neutral - <<

Thank you for the recommendation I will set it back to neutral. I have never used subtrim before in my life. I always tried to correct any trim situation with mechanical linkages. I am not use to flying with such dependence on electronics.

>>So I would recommend you check the alignment of the motor shafts to the vertical - 3 and 9 (CW) sometimes need to be rotated clockwise from vertical by 3-5degrees (viewed from outer end of the arm toward the centre) - this is done by adding a washer on the engine mount for 3 and 9. Fly again - either add more washers or remove them until it hovers neutral with neutral trim.<<

That warms my heart. I love mechanical fixes. Yes I believe my motors on this mount are off from the vertical a bit.

>>Hawaii - wow - cool place to fly!<<

Yes it is except it rains a lot and we have a bit of wind all the time. I do fly in my backyard early in the morning in my PJ.

I do like the MultiWii board for aerobatic. It doesn't have the ballooning effect as in the KK board. I managed to do a few flips with the MultiWii today.

So do I have to calibrate the acc also? How about the learning feature? Do I need to go through all that for the plug and play board or do I just plug and fly?

I also ordered the USB interface so i can check the settings.

Thanks for the help.
Apr 15, 2011, 09:00 PM
AMA 46133
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3
Happy to report that the Paris board flew reasonably well as delivered. I can't imagine what it will be like if I read the directions this weekend

Seriously, it's a very cool board, and has a lot of potential.

Thanks,
Rusty
What frame is that? Please PM me instead of hijacking this thread.
Apr 15, 2011, 09:40 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeismicCWave
What frame is that? Please PM me instead of hijacking this thread.
It will be called the MQ-1, and will sell for $50. Look for an announcement on the multi-rotor forum around the end of the weekend, since I'm in the process of moving to a new web shop this weekend also.

Cheers,
Rusty

PS- having 8 mounting holes in the board that match the MK mounting is pretty darn convenient
Apr 15, 2011, 10:40 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Another Happy Paris board customer

I have mine up and flying well. Out of the gate it was a little "soft" and wallowed a bit on lift off. We tuned the PID settings and it is now very solid. The autolevel feature is so cool. Its almost cheating I need to get out in some better weather to test it more, but from what I am seeing I am very impressed.


Thanks Quinton,


Mike
Apr 16, 2011, 12:57 AM
AMA 46133
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3
It will be called the MQ-1, and will sell for $50. Look for an announcement on the multi-rotor forum around the end of the weekend, since I'm in the process of moving to a new web shop this weekend also.

Cheers,
Rusty

PS- having 8 mounting holes in the board that match the MK mounting is pretty darn convenient
Thanks, I will get one for sure.

On another note, I tried tilting the motors tonight. I put a couple of washers under motors 3 and 9 to tilt them clockwise. It helped a little bit but I am still holding half rudder stick to keep it flying straight. Anymore washers didn't help anymore.
Apr 16, 2011, 06:41 AM
Explore the Unknown
Huskiemuskie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII
@HuskieMuskie - If you choose to leave the motors to start-on-arm (default code) -> then proceed to apply the yaw stick on a Tricopter to arm - you could possibly get a blade strike at the servo goes hard-over as the rear motor bursts into life! so the option to arm with either stick was added to recent code versions. If you change your code to #define MOTOR_STOP then you can use the yaw confidential as usual (I do this). After arming my Tricopter I then trim up using throttle trim by 5 clicks or so - this also prevents me from accidentally going into disarm in mid-flight (fast descent - high yaw at high altitude like at 200ft).
THANKS!!!!
Tom
Apr 16, 2011, 02:34 PM
AMA 46133
I really want to like this Paris plug and play board. Not for aerial photography but for sport flying and aerobatics. It is almost perfect right now except for the constant left yaw that drives me nuts. Tilting the two motors didn't help a lot.

Will that help if I change the speed controller? Anyway I can do some diagnostic to figure out the reason for this?

I just love the forward flight characteristic with this board. It doesn't balloon like the KK board.

Autolevel is cool but not very useful for AP. It wobbles in the slightest wind and that will show up BIG time in a video footage.
Apr 16, 2011, 02:42 PM
Registered User
earlmact's Avatar
Is there any issues with using a Paris V2 board with a Optima7 RX and Aurora 9 TX. I got a custom build Quad with a Spectrum 6100e RX but I want to use what I already have.
Apr 16, 2011, 02:49 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeismicCWave
I really want to like this Paris plug and play board. Not for aerial photography but for sport flying and aerobatics. It is almost perfect right now except for the constant left yaw that drives me nuts. Tilting the two motors didn't help a lot.

Will that help if I change the speed controller? Anyway I can do some diagnostic to figure out the reason for this?

I just love the forward flight characteristic with this board. It doesn't balloon like the KK board.

Autolevel is cool but not very useful for AP. It wobbles in the slightest wind and that will show up BIG time in a video footage.

Hmmm...I am not seeing the wobbles you mention in autolevel. I was out in some nasty wind this morning and the copter stayed so level it was actually hard to fly. (in a good way ) I am not used to the airframe holding attitude. I am flying tricopters though, so I am sure there is a difference.

Mike
Apr 16, 2011, 03:32 PM
gtx
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
some more, basic qīs from me..

1. as i will be powering the board with a Ubec from a separately 3S lipo, but how many mah is basically needed ? 500? or in other words, what does it consume ?

2. If i want to use bluetooth instead of the Serial-cabel communication, as i have seen some discussion about it lately in the big multiwiicopter thread but cant get a good grip off it.
will for example A: Ebay work or some kind of B: Sparkfun ?

4. this "#define MINTHROTTLE xxxx" is it so i wont need to ESC calibrate the Min&max throttle ? or is it still needed ?

and 3: whats all this talk about 9DOF chip that will replace NK and WMP+ and have double cycling speed ?

Pls dont get tierd of me, and all the others with our endless questions

would need some serious online documentation too avoid too much repeating of all this..


Thanks for all, will try to make a noob-guide later on, to gather all info i did not find anywhere, so i can help everyone..
Apr 16, 2011, 05:08 PM
AMA 46133
Quote:
Originally Posted by power
Hmmm...I am not seeing the wobbles you mention in autolevel. I was out in some nasty wind this morning and the copter stayed so level it was actually hard to fly. (in a good way ) I am not used to the airframe holding attitude. I am flying tricopters though, so I am sure there is a difference.

Mike
Over all the quad is very stable. The wobble is very slight but you can see it in a video footage.
Apr 16, 2011, 06:13 PM
Firefox
Firefox675's Avatar
Is there a walk through for setting up a new Arduino Pro Mini 328 and/or version 1.7 ( or any version ) of the multiwii software ?

thanks
Apr 16, 2011, 06:50 PM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox675
Is there a walk through for setting up a new Arduino Pro Mini 328 and/or version 1.7 ( or any version ) of the multiwii software ?

thanks
Blue Angel made one. It's about 2/3 of the way down the page:
http://translate.google.com/translat...%26prmd%3Divns
Apr 16, 2011, 07:08 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3
Happy to report that the Paris board flew reasonably well as delivered. I can't imagine what it will be like if I read the directions this weekend

Seriously, it's a very cool board, and has a lot of potential.

Thanks,
Rusty
@13brv3 - Love your black Quad - very nice the way you did the centre mounting of the PARIS!
Apr 16, 2011, 07:34 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeismicCWave
>>Your settings for Spektrum Tx are correct Ch2 and Ch4 are set to REV - If you set your RUDD TRAV to 105% (possibly 106%) for both L and Right it will disarm, and the GREEN led will go OFF. The gyro is already calibrated when you get it on a plug-n-play PARIS - but this will be the same reason -> set 105% TRAV for RUDD in the Tx.<<

Thank you. After reading more on other's problem I did increase the travel volume on the rudder channel and managed to disarm the motors.

However I still cannot calibrate the gyro (that is the green LED will not flash) when I move my sticks to the lower and outer extremes. Is that proper with the plug and play board?

>>The GEAR switch controls mode - the way to tell which mode it is in is to connect the GUI and flick the GEAR switch - ACTIVE means it is in LEVEL mode. 2nd way to tell is to hover - in ACRO mode it will NOT try to level itself - in LEVEL mode it will try to level itself when you release the sticks.<<

I also managed to figure out the auto level mode on my gear switch. There is a definite difference in control.

>>The yaw - ALL motors MUST always start at the same time (calibration of ESCs) - YAW is created by a torque-reaction differential - in other words the motors are sped up or slowed down in pairs ; RearL-FrontR(CCW11/10 pair) and RearR-FrontL(opposite pair CW 9/3)<<

I do understand how the yaw motion is generated now. Thanks.

>> - It's not a good idea to have a lot of trim in RC - TRIM often masks a set-up issue - set your RUDD trim to neutral - <<

Thank you for the recommendation I will set it back to neutral. I have never used subtrim before in my life. I always tried to correct any trim situation with mechanical linkages. I am not use to flying with such dependence on electronics.

>>So I would recommend you check the alignment of the motor shafts to the vertical - 3 and 9 (CW) sometimes need to be rotated clockwise from vertical by 3-5degrees (viewed from outer end of the arm toward the centre) - this is done by adding a washer on the engine mount for 3 and 9. Fly again - either add more washers or remove them until it hovers neutral with neutral trim.<<

That warms my heart. I love mechanical fixes. Yes I believe my motors on this mount are off from the vertical a bit.

>>Hawaii - wow - cool place to fly!<<

Yes it is except it rains a lot and we have a bit of wind all the time. I do fly in my backyard early in the morning in my PJ.

I do like the MultiWii board for aerobatic. It doesn't have the ballooning effect as in the KK board. I managed to do a few flips with the MultiWii today.

So do I have to calibrate the acc also? How about the learning feature? Do I need to go through all that for the plug and play board or do I just plug and fly?

I also ordered the USB interface so i can check the settings.

Thanks for the help.
@SeismicCWave - For the Spektrum TRAV - an AU Spektrum customer wrote me that on his Tx he had to increase travels to 110% and THRO as well to +115%/-115% (my DX7 only need 105%) to get the PWM range up to the point where he could arm/disarm and do both calibrations - I hold my sticks at the calibration positions - then with my other finger wound the travel up in small increments until the lights flickered. All plug-n-play boards are fully tested for Rx functionality by me before shipping; including these tests - so it will just need a little more TRAV from the Tx; and it should register

Yaw - set-up for mechanical neutral trim - QuadX - For the motor inclination system to work well the CW R/props pairs 9&3 have to be tilted CW ; and the CCW props pair 11&10 are true 90 degree vert or tilted slightly CCW. The YAW "P" value can be set to P11 and reduce the YAW rate to 0.10 - As the trust vector in inclined over with tilt(washers) it has a greater and greater effect with each degree of tilt - as the horizontal component of the thrust vector force is increased.

The Gyro and ACC calibration are stored into non-volatile memory - this is done prior to shipping - anytime you are on a true level surface and your copter is motionless you can re-calibrate them if you wish. If the TRAV is not set high enough these seem to be less effective.

Any place where you can fly in your PJ's is a bonus - I am thinking swaying palm trees and dancing girls with white flower necklaces in the background?
Apr 16, 2011, 07:42 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeismicCWave
I really want to like this Paris plug and play board. Not for aerial photography but for sport flying and aerobatics. It is almost perfect right now except for the constant left yaw that drives me nuts. Tilting the two motors didn't help a lot.

Will that help if I change the speed controller? Anyway I can do some diagnostic to figure out the reason for this?

I just love the forward flight characteristic with this board. It doesn't balloon like the KK board.

Autolevel is cool but not very useful for AP. It wobbles in the slightest wind and that will show up BIG time in a video footage.
For Quads that have a wobble try increasing the "D" value up to D30 with a "P"value of around P6 - For AP you would need to consider running a 2-axis-camera-Gimbal with servos from Cam1 and Cam2. Double check you motor timing is programmed to high in the ESC/card programmer. Some ESc/motor /PROP combos cause lateral oscillations - especially if the props tips are running very close - this may mean using booms 2 inches longer to prevent the turbulences interference of the prop-tip vortex.
Apr 16, 2011, 07:47 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by power
Hmmm...I am not seeing the wobbles you mention in autolevel. I was out in some nasty wind this morning and the copter stayed so level it was actually hard to fly. (in a good way ) I am not used to the airframe holding attitude. I am flying tricopters though, so I am sure there is a difference.

Mike
@ PowerMike - You are right - the reason why most tricopter builders don't get these issues (which show up in short-boom-Quad-Xs) is they keep their booms longer by design - this has two effects - mechanical inertia (motor mass is further apart) and also in forward flight the Tricopter has little or no cross-interference aerodynamically from the prop vortices.
Apr 16, 2011, 08:19 PM
Firefox
Firefox675's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Katabatic
Blue Angel made one. It's about 2/3 of the way down the page:
http://translate.google.com/translat...%26prmd%3Divns
Thanks, that helped.
Got the program to load, no errors, but green led stays off after loading, thought it was supposed to stay on...

Not clear how to hook the board and all to the computer for GUI yet, powered from a battery AND USB port ?

Can the memory on the Arduino be cleared, or does it need to be for a new install of softare ?

thanks
Apr 16, 2011, 08:47 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx
some more, basic qīs from me..

1. as i will be powering the board with a Ubec from a separately 3S lipo, but how many mah is basically needed ? 500? or in other words, what does it consume ?

2. If i want to use bluetooth instead of the Serial-cabel communication, as i have seen some discussion about it lately in the big multiwiicopter thread but cant get a good grip off it.
will for example A: Ebay work or some kind of B: Sparkfun ?

4. this "#define MINTHROTTLE xxxx" is it so i wont need to ESC calibrate the Min&max throttle ? or is it still needed ?

and 3: whats all this talk about 9DOF chip that will replace NK and WMP+ and have double cycling speed ?

Pls dont get tierd of me, and all the others with our endless questions

would need some serious online documentation too avoid too much repeating of all this..


Thanks for all, will try to make a noob-guide later on, to gather all info i did not find anywhere, so i can help everyone..
'

@ GTX - 1)Cool - For a separate UBEC I use a 2S600Mah and it hardly needs any charge after a flight (no servos) - if you are running camera servos / or a tricopter tail-servo it will be more. 2)Forum member Killam got his ebay BTooth working after programming it with a serial cable first 3) Personally I find the cycle speed (300-4000 or 6000 with a MP+ & NK original) is not that important - To nirvana of a Smooth/Stable copter comes directly from best balanced PROPS and the SENSORS all mounted on rubberisedFoamTape ; followed by a good "Play"session with the PIDs 4) You still need to do a full engine-by-engine calibration with the actualy Tx/Rx - It's not as easy as a KK where you can do a mass-calibration

Thanks for al the questions - I never get tired of helping people, if I can.


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