Peter Rake Albatros DXI in 1/6 scale - Page 4 - RC Groups
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May 23, 2011, 09:19 AM
Registered User
I never use a hammer for wire bending. A good pair of pliers is fine up to 14 swg, but for anything bigger I use a vice to hold the wire and a big lump of hardwood - with a bit of weight behind it, to make the bend. I find it avoids those large radius bends it's all too easy to get.
I do as Pat mentioned, start from the middle, bending one side, then the other, making sure the mark on the wire is always used to aid even bending - bend one side with the mark hard against the vice, turn the wire over and repeat the process.

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May 23, 2011, 11:24 AM
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portablevcb's Avatar
And I seem to be the one that 'cheats'

For the small stuff (14ga and smaller) I just use pliers as well.

For larger I use a (cheap) small arbor press. I machined the nose of the press to a 'point' (actually about 1/8" radius). Put the wire across one of the 'notches' in the table, center my mark, and pull on handle. Match to drawing to get correct. Much easier than hammering or leaning on a board.

Before using the press I always had problems with keeping all of the bends straight (part would not lay flat).

And, when you get to 3/16" wire, the hammer and vise are not quite enough either. Well, I guess if I got out my 5lb sledge hammer it might work

May 23, 2011, 01:43 PM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
with the smaller stuff i have most success with one of those K+S benders, the only larger wire i have bent was for the Biff and luckily it was a simple bend at one end so the vise and the hndle of the k+s jobbie with the wire run through the hole and used as a lever did just nicely
May 23, 2011, 04:33 PM
Registered User
I've got a small arbor press too and had that very same idea. The problem is I can't machine the point or the notches. I would have to have that done at a machine shop. Can't think that it would be too expensive, but you know how it is, some ideas work out better between your ears than in practice.
Would a pic of your setup be asking too much?

May 23, 2011, 04:36 PM
AMA 937634
Stone1295's Avatar
Do the K&S benders make sharp bends or do they round them?

I use linemen's pliers but start at one end and work my way through a piece but I have a hard time getting the piece to lay flat after I'm done so I'm looking for a better way.

May 23, 2011, 10:13 PM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
The K&S jobbies still round them a bit due to the bend being formed around a pin of about 3/16 dia as against a sharp edge, i haven't found it to be excessive though. they wont help too much with alignment and only a good eyeballing or practice will help with that.
May 24, 2011, 12:57 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Irrespective of OHS, dubious metalworking techniques etc - my 1/8 steel UC wire is cut, bent, bound and soldered The parts were screwed to the fuselage mounting plates and all ends finished exactly where they should be After a thorough cleaning with alcohol, they were bound with copper wire stripped from old electrical cable and soldered using high-silver content soft solder using my trusty Weller 80Watt iron.

The axle is bound and soldered to the spreader bar and the springy ends will be wrapped in elastic 'bungee' cord. Later - after fairings etc are added.

A start was made on the laminated outlines for the tail parts - lots of 1/4" wide strip (I used 5 laminations of 2mm stock) were soaked in water and bent easily around a bunch a pins over the plan. When they are dry, I'll use Superphatic glue to stick em together it will give a little more time than CA but is still fast (20 minutes) and sandable. Other people use templates for laminating but my lazy way works for me........

May 24, 2011, 04:15 AM
Registered User
Pat your builds are always great reading & this one looks to be no different. Can I ask you where you source the silver solder you use to such good effect? My enquiries were mostly met with a flat denial that such material exists, sometimes offering silver brazing rod, occasionally (only) I was offered silver soft solder for an arm and a leg with a couple of eyeballs thrown in! Never been able to find it at an affordable price. Dick
May 24, 2011, 07:24 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Dick - silver bearing solder should be available in just about any hardware store! My last lot came from Bunnings in Fyshwick, in ACT.
The brand is BERNZOMATIC - made in the USA. It uses water based flux and is lead free.

Cheers - Pat
May 24, 2011, 07:33 AM
Registered User
Thanks Pat I'll try that locally. In my ignorance I was expecting it to only be available at industrial suppliers, so that was where I directed my inquiries. To say the least they were not a lot of help! Regards, Dick
May 24, 2011, 08:16 AM
Übung macht den Meister..
Deuce's Avatar
From what I understand, silver bearing solder contains some amount of silver, but it is not the same as silver solder. Hence the term "soft." I do believe silver solder is also referred to as "hard" solder.

While silver solder is stronger and is often called out on plans for LG use, I doubt one should worry about that difference after wrapping with wire. As well, for most (all?) of Pete's designs, anything that would stress the wrapped and soldered joint to the point of failure would be rebuilding or trashing the model anyway.

May 24, 2011, 09:21 AM
Registered User
portablevcb's Avatar
There is a bit of confusion on solder these days.

Old terminology was that 'solder' referred to lead-tin (50-50 or 25-75) soft solder such as that used by plumbers and electricians, also called 'soft' solder. There were/are two different kinds of flux, acid and rosin, with rosin used mainly in electronics and acid by plumbers.

'Silver solder' was a term used to describe 'brazing', a higher temp solder, and sometimes called 'hard' solder. Usually uses brass (Copper-Zinc) rods, but, can be done with any metal that melts at a lower temp than the joined metals. Silver solder was named such because silver was part of the brazing material.

Now days, plumbers are restricted from using lead in soldering water pipes so there have been other types of soft solder, mainly by adding some silver or other metals to the tin. So, now when someone says 'silver solder' it frequently refers to a soft solder.

And, if you add in all the jewelry soldering it gets even more confusing as they use silver wire for their work (expensive). Then there is also structural brazing where steel parts are joined with even higher temp materials.

May 24, 2011, 11:25 AM
Matt Haugh
hoffboy's Avatar

Stay Brite

Here's what I use for joining piano wire

So far no problems.
May 24, 2011, 05:46 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
IIRC even silver bearing solder may need a little more heat - but my 80 watt large tip iron has had no problems with even 3/16 wire. The stuff I use uses a water-soluble flux which is great for cleaning up - just hot soapy water! The solder I choose to use is not flux cored.

May 24, 2011, 06:16 PM
Closed Account
Will this be a kit from Manzano ?

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