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Old Aug 21, 2012, 12:26 AM
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I'm in RC hell! No spare parts for the 71" Orange Gas Slick anywhere

Did an assessment of the damage today after work.... the airframe is repairable, but I'll need a new wing tube, cowling and landing gear.

The hard knock on Sunday is a testament to the construction of the airframe. No damage to the motor box or the landing mount area after a 15 to 20 foot free fall.


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Old Aug 21, 2012, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by brathanke View Post
My slick flew nice today on the PTE 36cc. We got two flights and the smoke is coming along.
Only two flights? Slacker...
Old Aug 21, 2012, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by racerman27410 View Post
you would think that but the Vess is not a true 20x6.... back to back flights with both props and the vess definitely flies faster than the 20x6 on both my planes and my brothers slick also.... the planes slow down much better with the 20x6.

i would recommend trying both though to see which one you like the best.

the protek props i got didnt need to be drilled.... thats strange that yours did.
Interesting... Which 20x6 are you flying with? ProTek? They are somewhat scarce and I can't find a Xoar 20x6 Sword (like 3DHS recommends) anywhere...
Old Aug 21, 2012, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by flyracer View Post
I'm in RC hell! No spare parts for the 71" Orange Gas Slick anywhere

Did an assessment of the damage today after work.... the airframe is repairable, but I'll need a new wing tube, cowling and landing gear.

The hard knock on Sunday is a testament to the construction of the airframe. No damage to the motor box or the landing mount area after a 15 to 20 foot free fall.


Flyracer
Have you tried asking for parts in the addicts thread? Seems like some of those guys have stuff laying around or parts off crashed planes. (Sorry if you already knew to try this).

I wonder if an email/call to 3DHS would get them to part out a full kit for you...

Crashing sucks, but not being able to get the parts to fix it sucks worse.
Old Aug 21, 2012, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by KTMRacr View Post
Only two flights? Slacker...
Stripped the rudder control horn on the servo. That is the second one. I bought some aluminum on my way home
Old Aug 21, 2012, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by kerwin50 View Post
KTM I'm thinking hodge park. it's the home of the Northern Knights.
I'm using an APC 18/6W on my DLE 30 single bolt conversion.
It makes a good 20lbs plus static thrust.
What static thrust are some of you guys getting.
Checked out the location on Hodge Park. Looks like a nice midway point! I'll take it to PM!

Bring your static thrust meter and we can hook it up to my Slick and check it out!
Old Aug 21, 2012, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by KTMRacr View Post
Have you tried asking for parts in the addicts thread? Seems like some of those guys have stuff laying around or parts off crashed planes. (Sorry if you already knew to try this).

I wonder if an email/call to 3DHS would get them to part out a full kit for you...

Crashing sucks, but not being able to get the parts to fix it sucks worse.
I haven't tried that! I'll drop a note over in that thread... great idea, thanks!

Flyracer
Old Aug 21, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by KTMRacr View Post
Interesting... Which 20x6 are you flying with? ProTek? They are somewhat scarce and I can't find a Xoar 20x6 Sword (like 3DHS recommends) anywhere...
just a plain xoar 20x6 (not the laminated one) they are available lots of places.

http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/x...ller-20x6.html
Old Aug 21, 2012, 02:24 PM
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So I'm assuming tuning must be done on a prop change?
Old Aug 21, 2012, 03:01 PM
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I wouldn't have thought so, but apparently you do. Mine won't 4 cycle on the ground, but once you get it up in the air (unload the prop) it would start to do that. I had to tweak several times based on what it was doing in the air. A prop change would also change the loading on the engine which means small tweaks one way or another would be needed.

But then again, what do I know. I'm figuring out along the way.
Old Aug 21, 2012, 03:32 PM
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So I'm assuming tuning must be done on a prop change?
Everything I have heard points toward having to re-tune when you change props.
Old Aug 21, 2012, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by brathanke View Post
Everything I have heard points toward having to re-tune when you change props.

yes.... tweaking of the tuning is required with a prop change.


Falcon also makes a nice 20x6 prop

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-28.html
Old Aug 21, 2012, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by KTMRacr View Post
I wouldn't have thought so, but apparently you do. Mine won't 4 cycle on the ground, but once you get it up in the air (unload the prop) it would start to do that. I had to tweak several times based on what it was doing in the air. A prop change would also change the loading on the engine which means small tweaks one way or another would be needed.

But then again, what do I know. I'm figuring out along the way.

you definitely dont want to get rid of all the "burble" on partial/trailing throttle....when there is no burble you are looking eye to eye with a flameout.

a little bit rich = dependable in the air.
Old Aug 21, 2012, 06:13 PM
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We are talking about the high end correct?
Old Aug 21, 2012, 06:36 PM
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We are talking about the high end correct?
actually the low end is the one thats going to give or take away the burble.... if the high end is too lean its not going to wind out.... pretty noticable on the ground. If the low end is too lean it will run great on the ground and then just suddenly cut off (at the worst possible time usually) in the air.

both needles need adjusting for a great running engine.... there is a lot of overlap of the high and low speed circuits with the walbro carbs..... bottom line is keep an eye on where your mix screws are.... at my elevation (800 ft )you never want to be less than one turn out on either needle with any of these engines..... the engine will still run this way but you are risking a flameout unnecessarily.

set both needles about 1.25 to 1.5 turns out.

adjust the high end needle first for max revs then richen it back up like one screwdriver blade width from that point.

then adjust the low needle for good throttle response (no bogging on a hard throttle hit) with a slight burble on trailing throttle to let you know the engine isnt starving for fuel..... when its right the engine will drop right back to a steady idle after a throttle blip..... it the idle drops low then picks back up its still rich (a little of this is not a bad thing) just want to make sure the engine wont load up and cut off so an extended ground idle test will prove this...... if the idle hangs after a throttle blip then slowly drops down its too lean...... make small changes.... IE one blade width on the screwdriver at a time.

you may have to go back to the high speed needle for a slight tweaking after you get the low speed setup..... just remember if you get it all out of whack go back to about 1.25 to 1.5 turns out on both needles and start over.
Last edited by racerman27410; Aug 21, 2012 at 06:49 PM.


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