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Feb 10, 2015, 04:41 PM
3d NOOBular
3DNater's Avatar
Weird that the benchmark prop is an 18x10 APC. Not exactly an ideal prop choice. I'm sure it would do much better on beechwood or a CF prop but at only 2.6 HP... kind of weak sauce for that much displacement IMO. The DLE 35 is supposed to put out 4.1 HP at 8500 rpms. The DA has more power than the DLE. So that may be a reason nobody is running the zenoah
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Feb 10, 2015, 05:43 PM
Registered User
632bigduke's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DNater
Weird that the benchmark prop is an 18x10 APC. Not exactly an ideal prop choice. I'm sure it would do much better on beechwood or a CF prop but at only 2.6 HP... kind of weak sauce for that much displacement IMO. The DLE 35 is supposed to put out 4.1 HP at 8500 rpms. The DA has more power than the DLE. So that may be a reason nobody is running the zenoah
Yep I gotcha
The zenoah is heavy also .
So I'm sure I'll be happy with the DA35
I still might get a zenoah and mod the engine and do a few test but not on my new slick lol
Thanks
Apr 22, 2015, 09:29 PM
scubachet

DLE-35RA carb


Can the the carberator be flipped 180deg. to put the throttle and choke levers on the starboard side giving more room to work with them?
Apr 22, 2015, 11:23 PM
3d NOOBular
3DNater's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by scubachet
Can the the carberator be flipped 180deg. to put the throttle and choke levers on the starboard side giving more room to work with them?
I flipped the carb on mine... no ill effects. What engine are you running?
May 11, 2015, 08:39 PM
scubachet

Beefing up motor mount


My DLE-35RA manual says the motor is to be mounted to minimum 3/8" thick plywood. My Slick has a 1/4" thick firewall. Would it be wise to fiberglass the fore and aft sides of the firewall or is it not necessary? Also should I coat the wood in the motor area with something to protect it from gasoline drips, spills, spray? Thanks, from this noobie to gas.
May 11, 2015, 11:14 PM
3d NOOBular
3DNater's Avatar
The stock firewall is fine. I think glassing is a good idea even if it is just to fuel proof.
May 11, 2015, 11:20 PM
3d NOOBular
3DNater's Avatar
For fuel proofing I like to do a couple different things depending what I have on hand... thinned epoxy works really well for fuel proofing. Thin it with rubbing or denatured alcohol till it has a nice thin brushable texture.. almost like water. You can brush this on anywhere that could possibly get exposed to fuel or oil. Another thing I use sometimes is fuel proof spray paint. Tower has clear coat that you can spray on. Any fuel proof paint will work the same. Last thing I sometimes use if I want to add some structural strength is z-poxy finishing resin and some light cloth.
May 24, 2015, 06:20 PM
scubachet
3Dnater, I took your advice and did the Z-Poxy thinned, and glassed the entire motor mount then brushed much of the rest with just the thinned epoxy. I got my DLE35RA running on synthetic oil 28:1 for now. CG looked good with how I placed things inside so I went with a maiden flight today and I'm surprised the pucker factor was low. Running with an 18" prop and got some rolling harriers, knife edge passes and hovers. Being my first gasser I have some learning to do, but wow this is cool!
May 24, 2015, 08:05 PM
3d NOOBular
3DNater's Avatar
Awesome! Congrats on the maiden!

Quote:
Originally Posted by scubachet
3Dnater, I took your advice and did the Z-Poxy thinned, and glassed the entire motor mount then brushed much of the rest with just the thinned epoxy. I got my DLE35RA running on synthetic oil 28:1 for now. CG looked good with how I placed things inside so I went with a maiden flight today and I'm surprised the pucker factor was low. Running with an 18" prop and got some rolling harriers, knife edge passes and hovers. Being my first gasser I have some learning to do, but wow this is cool!
May 25, 2015, 06:21 PM
Registered User
kerwin50's Avatar
Yes congrats


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