So I maidened my Stryker today.

Hand launch. Crash, nose first, I accidentally hit my flap switch. Grrrr nose cone damaged. Front of the plane slightly dented in.

Inhibited the flap switch. Launched again, success!!!

I did the launch by holding the right wing with my left hand, throttle then toss.

Wondering if I should steam the nose or leave it. It is not too bad.

Originally Posted by soundcheque

Yep it is usually associated with the Pylon Racers. I have the Graupner Speed Cam 6.5 x 6.5 which was for another project. Not the Stryker.

You should be OK with the 60 amp ESC and the 7x6APCe

7x5 APCe will be on the limit as suggested with the standard ESC (46amps static at WOT)

Do you notice any speed difference with apc 7x5,7x6 then the 6x6 on 3s,
Thanks,
DB Quote

The difference from the standard prop to the APCe 7x5 in my case was just oustanding. a different plane to fly.

Not tried the 7x6 as I'm perfectly happy with my set up and don't want to upgrade the ESC.

So i just went to the hobbyshop,and got 2 APC 7x5E,and a APC 7x6 slow flyer,didnt have a 7X6E...but the 7x6SF seems almost as stiff as the 7x5E..
DB

Originally Posted by dbgood

Do you notice any speed difference with apc 7x5,7x6 then the 6x6 on 3s,
Thanks,
DB

I noticed a BIG difference between the stock prop and the APC 7x5/7x6Sport props on 3S. Especially with launching her. Thrust was a noticable difference as well coming out of a Harrier/Elevator maneuver. I'm a lone wolf as far as where I fly so no access to radar gun and I have yet to install the TM1000 Module & Airspeed Sensor in my Stryker, but I have not looked back at the 6x6 and I only fly 7x5&6 props. I say "props" 'cause my props break when doing the Elevator/Prachute landing every once in awhile. So I keep an inventory reamed and ready to go so when I do break one its' a quick remove & replace.

I was wondering if anyone knows the part number for the dubro linkage some people are swapping out for which is more sturdy then stock. I'm afraid mine will strip at some point. Also, has anyone had servo failures on late production stryker Q's? I have a late model stryker (came with backplates from the factory) and my servos seem to be holding up so far after around 50 flights or so. What are the hitec servos everyone is switch out to? I read about It awhile ago but forgot which model one other thing, can the stock motor hold up to a 5s battery and a apc 7X6 sport prop? I have an ICE 75 so i should be good with the ESC. If the 5s is too much, what is the biggest/ best 4s battery i can get to fit without any major modifications?

any tips on how to do boomerangs? can't figure them out Only real trick i can do is the inverted flat spin

Originally Posted by strykerf27q

I was wondering if anyone knows the part number for the dubro linkage some people are swapping out for which is more sturdy then stock. I'm afraid mine will strip at some point.

Part #185 Here you go:

http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...=185/101.0.1.1

Originally Posted by strykerf27q

What are the hitec servos everyone is switch out to? I read about It awhile ago but forgot which model

From the expert Stryker modders here on the forum they recommended HiTech HS-5585MH's, I knew my wife would kill me if I spent the money on those so I had to settle for HiTech's HS-65MG's. I needed to change out the servo arms to get full throw with the AIL. I went with these:

http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...=934/101.0.1.1

But if you do a search here in this forum you'll find a nice set of carbon fiber arms a guy uses on his 3D planes.

My stock servo didn't fail. It got stripped when my right AIL control horn broke free from the AIL. I decided to replace the left servo as well.

Originally Posted by grovey

.....Grrrr nose cone damaged.....Wondering if I should steam the nose or leave it. It is not too bad.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=5341



Dave

Originally Posted by pugsam

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=5341



Dave

Hahaha awesome, bent nose it is then!

great! thanks. I was also wondering what kind of glue is this plane put together with? It's a white rubbery kind of glue and I would like to use the same stuff when i go to put new servos and stuff in.

So let me be more clear. The nose I have replaced, but the place where the nose gets placed on, the foam is compressed there which makes the new nose site off kilter ever so slightly.

Should I try uncompress the foam there, or just leave it?

Originally Posted by strykerf27q

great! thanks. I was also wondering what kind of glue is this plane put together with? It's a white rubbery kind of glue and I would like to use the same stuff when i go to put new servos and stuff in.

I was told my HH that it's white silicone. Easily attained at your local WalMart or hardware store. I opted for the 3M double sided foam squares and hot glue to install my servos. Good luck!!

Originally Posted by grovey

So let me be more clear. The nose I have replaced, but the place where the nose gets placed on, the foam is compressed there which makes the new nose site off kilter ever so slightly.

Should I try uncompress the foam there, or just leave it?

Exact same thing happened to mine, I did try to "boil" the warp a bit and it did help. What I did was boil some water in a huge pot, dipped the nose in for about 3-4 seconds then immediately ran it under cold water. If you look at mine head on you can see it bends ever so slightly to the right (well right if you were sitting in the cockpit, but if you could do that, you'd be famous!). It doesn't effect the handling at all. Once I got it back in the air I forgot all about the slight bend.

same on mine but i kept dipping fuse front in almost boiling water several times but did not run cold water on it. i put the nose back on and sorta bent it so all was lined up and let it stay on for 2 days without touching it.....now its 99.99 % perfect

The actual nose of my airframe was damaged from a bad landing so i did the hot water method and it worked pretty well. I just got the water really hot and held the plane in there for like a minute.. Only thing now, the foam seems to be a little more fragile and beads are starting to chip off. I'm thinking about making a skid plate for the front underside of the plane out of thin lexan like what rc car bodies are made out of to help keep the foam together and protect the airframe upon landings.

Also I'm still wondering about some of my previous questions

1. can the stock motor handle a 5s battery and apc 7X6 prop? If it can, what is the biggest/best 5s battery to get that will fit without major modification

2. If a 5s won't work, what is the biggest/ best 4s battery to get without needing major modification for it to fit?

3. Anyone with a late production stryker have any servo failures? Wondering if they updated the servo design. (don't want to blow 60 bucks on servos if i don't have to..)

4. Someone give me a tutorial on how to do boomerangs and inverted boomerangs! Dieing to learn these

also, side note - My nose flew off yesterday when i was flying and didn't notice so it's lost now but I flew it 4 batteries without a nose so far and it flies just fine! lol

OH and one last thing. I saw a video of someone who mounted there gopro (small hd camera) on the stryker and I was wondering what mount you used?? How does it fly with the extra weight and where exactly did you mount it?

here is a video of a gopro on a Q

HD Flight: F27Q GoPro Stryker (2 min 24 sec)

4. Someone give me a tutorial on how to do boomerangs and inverted boomerangs! Dieing to learn these

1. Go nice And high, about 4-500 feet, (high rates) and kill throttle. Before it stops completely flick your throttle/rudder to the bottom left, and your ail/elv stick to the upper right.... Hold it, and now you're doing an inverted flat spin.

2. To get out after a few spins, center both sticks, it'll slow down, pull up on ele, and throttle up...

..............

For upright spin, do the same as step #1, but after you start to spin once or twice, quickly put you ail/ele stick to the lower left as well... Now you're In a normal flat spin... Keep your eye on it, it spins quicker this way

To pull out same as step #2

I read how to do this from about 150 pages back... And tried it on my third or forth flight with my Stryker. Worked like a charm, but keep them short and sweet until you get the hang of it.

Google "stryker q tricks" and watch the first 5:54 min video that comes up on the search...

Enjoy!