Originally Posted by Buzzed

Hey Stryker fans!

It was hot and windy here in AZ yesterday. We did some full throttle downwind passes and I got my Stryker up to 131 mph. The 4cell 2200 40c battery, stock prop, and Hacker 55 amp speed control helped me cook my motor though... Ughhh.

So, what motor fit for a 4 cell battery will attach to the stock mount??? I'm sure it's somewhere in this thread, so maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

-Buzzed

P.S. I have a lead thumb!

I'm sure I'm not to far behind you.....

Originally Posted by Benihama

anyone arround with this servo problem?
you guys think that could be the end of the servo and needs to replace?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVYRJAEpjEk

Happens on occasion with the EFLR7140 /PKZ DSV130M digital servos, chattering is one of the issues they have. I've had about 3 dozen of them in various BNF models, and have had to swap about half due to failures of one sort or another. They have done everything from fail to center, walk away from center, chatter, strip, the gear shaft pockets wear, inner cases crack, or just flat out fail, all replaced by Hitecs that still run without a single one failing. They hold up OK on the smaller warbirds, but on anything aerobatic where large movements and more stress are involved, they fail early and often. At this point, I figure on replacing them when I am considering most any new aerobatic model, and weigh that into the cost. So far my elevon Stryker Q servos didn'tlast 5 flights before stripping on the right, and failing to center on the left, the rudder servos are still holding up, but for how long, I don't know, hopefully they last, but I'm not counting on it.

I flew mine 3x's today. I used a 3s 30c 2200, 3s 40c 2200, and the 4s 35c 1800. Stock motor/prop 60 amp ESC. I cleaned up the the battery bay for better cooling and cut away a little foam so the RX, ESC, and Battery all could move back. While the 3s 30c 2200 was by far the weakest speed wise it was the best for stunts. Making the Q do nice spins, parachute, Flip Flop(Don't know what it's called when you go into the parachute then keep going from upright to inverted, upright, inverted), and inverted parachute were all very, VERY nice. The 4s was of course the fastest. I find though that I like the 3s 30c and 40c 2200's better than the 4s. The C always made me want to go faster. With the Q I really end up doing stunts for the entire flight and I love speed. I'll take a pic of my bay later after Baseball is over.

Originally Posted by Buzzed

Hey Stryker fans!

It was hot and windy here in AZ yesterday. We did some full throttle downwind passes and I got my Stryker up to 131 mph. The 4cell 2200 40c battery, stock prop, and Hacker 55 amp speed control helped me cook my motor though... Ughhh.

So, what motor fit for a 4 cell battery will attach to the stock mount??? I'm sure it's somewhere in this thread, so maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

-Buzzed

P.S. I have a lead thumb!

I really don't think this has been discussed yet, and I'm pretty sure nobody has posted anything about installing an aftermarket motor. It's shocking, but I think you are the first person to ask this question. So far everyone on the forum is still running the stock motor.

Originally Posted by thinman

Like this type of launch. Will it work as well with little or no wind?

Bob

Yes it will. I've launched it in low or calm winds before with no problems. Just make sure to give it 3/4 throttle.

Originally Posted by gatorb8

I'm sure I'm not to far behind you.....

so what do you think smoked the motor? what was the amp draw you were putting out?

Smoked motors???
ok wait a minute... I thought these things handled 4 cells just fine. Mine comes down just as cool as with 3 cells.

Originally Posted by ty_horn

Smoked motors???
ok wait a minute... I thought these things handled 4 cells just fine. Mine comes down just as cool as with 3 cells.

my buddy temp his at aroung 120 ish and it was about 95-98 out. that was on 3s nanotech battery on a 6 min flight.

Originally Posted by Killab

so what do you think smoked the motor? what was the amp draw you were putting out?

I got no data
waiting on replacement props
have and ICE in there so I'll datalog the current, voltage, and rpm

heat is usually the killer, over current or bearings cause it

Originally Posted by thinman

Like this type of launch. Will it work as well with little or no wind?

Bob

I bent my nose trying to launch with zero throttle on my maiden. I was gutted that I'd spoilt it before getting it in the air. Just been out tonight in no wind at all and launching at 3/4 power and aiming slightly up, about 10 degress above level perhaps, which seems to give me just enough time to get my right hand back onto the stick to correct any roll.

oh, also, i adjust my elevator trim slightly to give a little lift then adjust it back to centre during flight. my stryker seems to want to dive a little at low / mid speeds but climbs by itself at high speeds, not sure if that's normal? so i can do a massive loop at high speed with no stick input, yet when slow for landing i need to pull back ever so slightly to keep her level, ummmmmm.

Originally Posted by Buzzed

Hey Stryker fans!

It was hot and windy here in AZ yesterday. We did some full throttle downwind passes and I got my Stryker up to 131 mph. The 4cell 2200 40c battery, stock prop, and Hacker 55 amp speed control helped me cook my motor though... Ughhh.

So, what motor fit for a 4 cell battery will attach to the stock mount??? I'm sure it's somewhere in this thread, so maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

-Buzzed

P.S. I have a lead thumb!

i guess its importand to use the right prop on 4s. i used an cam speed 6x6 and the motor realy gets hott compared to 3s. now i allways change the prop for the different batterys. 3s = 6x6 or 6.5x6.5 4s = 6x5.5
the motor on 4s with 6x5.5 got like no differenz on temperature

Originally Posted by Chrisfunk

....oh, also, i adjust my elevator trim slightly to give a little lift then adjust it back to centre during flight. my stryker seems to want to dive a little at low / mid speeds but climbs by itself at high speeds, not sure if that's normal? so i can do a massive loop at high speed with no stick input, yet when slow for landing i need to pull back ever so slightly to keep her level, ummmmmm.

Maybe it would be useful to have a throttle/elevator mix. Very slight -- just a few percent. Trim her for level flight at 50% or 75% throttle -- and the mix would help keep her level at WOT with neutral elevator (and help keep the nose up at low throttle for landings).

What do you guys think?

Originally Posted by alucard0822

Happens on occasion with the EFLR7140 /PKZ DSV130M digital servos, chattering is one of the issues they have. I've had about 3 dozen of them in various BNF models, and have had to swap about half due to failures of one sort or another. They have done everything from fail to center, walk away from center, chatter, strip, the gear shaft pockets wear, inner cases crack, or just flat out fail, all replaced by Hitecs that still run without a single one failing. They hold up OK on the smaller warbirds, but on anything aerobatic where large movements and more stress are involved, they fail early and often. At this point, I figure on replacing them when I am considering most any new aerobatic model, and weigh that into the cost. So far my elevon Stryker Q servos didn'tlast 5 flights before stripping on the right, and failing to center on the left, the rudder servos are still holding up, but for how long, I don't know, hopefully they last, but I'm not counting on it.

hey alucard
wich Hitec Servos would you recommend for the Q? Dang this Stryker got a realy nice concept but at some points the quality isnt that good

Originally Posted by gatorb8

I got no data
waiting on replacement props
have and ICE in there so I'll datalog the current, voltage, and rpm

heat is usually the killer, over current or bearings cause it

I datalogged my bent prop
51.7Amps
14Volts
725 Watts
25015 RPM

6" prop pitch speed = 142 mph

edit: forgot to add, I'm at 9000' elevation, current will probably be higher at lower elevation

I think himax may have a motor option that will work.