Just went to the man cave and went into the sub trim and adjusted throttle and bugger me they both now work. Am fairly new to this twin motor stuff,anyhow will reinstall everything and give it another go.By the way first time i have even looked at sub trim settings, figure i learnt something today.Thankyou for your replys it amazes me how much i learn on rc groups.

Can anyone advise a good sytem of retractable LG's for the main and front? I'm sure the problems of water leakage have been discussed ad infinitum, but I can't find where.

Do not believe you'll find a "off the shelf" retract for this airframe Bo43,

You must probably make it yourself, checked in here but could not find this mod was done, the nosewheel and it's wells at this scale looks tricky in my opinion.

received my box in the meantime, have my bench busy right now, the long wait motivated for other longdue jobs hanging around.
Checked all the parts and made my list of mods, will make the deflectors at bow as most of the contributors here recomend, the elevator servo will take place in the fuselage with a crank in the original servo tray hooked pull-pull.
Will try to hide the motor wires in the wings and add a scalish lighning system with switchable landing lights.
Could'nt decide for the flaps, any advice ?

Many thanks to the contributors here for all the very informative content

Originally Posted by rawy

Do not believe you'll find a "off the shelf" retract for this airframe Bo43,

You must probably make it yourself, checked in here but could not find this mod was done, the nosewheel and it's wells at this scale looks tricky in my opinion.

I found 2 possibilities - http://www.aerosquare.com/en/Electri...errissage.html and a very expensive one (nearly 400$) at https://mraerodesign.securicom.ca/en...m?ProduitID=58 , but I suppose you're right - have to make it myself. Thanks anyway

Originally Posted by rawy

Will try to hide the motor wires in the wings and add a scalish lighning system with switchable landing lights.
Could'nt decide for the flaps, any advice ?

Sounds familiar to me what you write: http://www.rcl-tv.de search for CL-415, some pics of mine. Was not in the air yet, but built is 95% complete.

http://www.rcl-tv.de/photo/4584/hk-c...r-cl-415-flaps

2 x Park 480 850 kV
3s Lipo 2200 mAh
2 x 25 Amps Plush
Varioprops 4 Blade L & R 8.2" x 5.5"
Weight inkl. LiPo: 1.5 Kg
Thrust: > 1.6 Kg

have phun
Rainer

Thanks Rainer,

I have some Varioprops on my GGRN P5M2 Marlin, they are expensive and a bit haevy for small multiengine models but they sure look good.
My idea with this airframe was to have something easy to build during my recovery from surgery, building it with a light system but keep the cost low to sell it maidened before the summer.
Unfortunately this order took almost two months to get here, in the meantime I went on with unfinished projects hanging around here, the box ended upstairs in storage and I might even sell it as is.
Got these motors : AX-2306N1300kv Brushless Bell Motor with basic fixed wing esc's HKESC20A
Believe this combo should be ok for a scalish flight.

rawy

At the risk of repeating most of the previous information, sharing pictures of my project with comments for each pic. Haven't maiden it yet.

For your reference;

- Motors: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14739
- Receiver: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17621
- Servos: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...?idProduct=662
- ESC: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14871
- Lipos: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=11944
- Spinners:Dubro DUB264 Blue 1 1/2'' Spinners

May the following setting a good choice for that bird?

2X Mystery RC 30A BEC
2X EMAX CF2822 BRUSHLESS MOTOR 1200KV 28-22
1X 9050 GWS 9 x 5 3-Blade clockwise Prop
1X 9050R GWS 9 x 5 3-Blade Counter clockwise Prop

you guys need to check out the MR Aerodesign 415 ,just go to the web site, my buddy has one with the tank,undercarraige,just awesome!!!!

Well, I am now officially becoming a convert to electric. I ordered a CL415 from China as it was cheaper than ordering it here in the USA! New math I guess!

Anyway, I've been a glow four-stroke guy for years (1994) and now it just seems right to go electric. Can't wait to get this plane in the lake across the street for some evening flying.

I've read the entire forum and I'm now trying to educate myself on the ins and outs of electric power (motors, batteries, speed controls, watts, amps) seems a bit more complex than the old engines, but I'll get it.

I'm looking for a motor, prop and battery package that will give me good torque for 10-15 minutes of touch and goes and general just putting around.

Here is how I did it on my Futaba that I fount at this site: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489099

I found that when I do this, I set it on a switch that I can turn on and off. Then, when you want to use, it, you just turn it on.

The way this works you can leave the throttle at the bottom and then Yaw left or right and that will spin up that motor. If you want you can also throttle up and then speed up the motor you want.



RADIO PROGRAMMING

Using my Futaba 9C Transmitter, I was able to program dual rates and exponential as well as several interesting mixes for this model. I programmed Aileron/Rudder coupling, dual motors, and Rudder/Motor differential thrust.

Differential thrust allows you to speed up one motor and slow down the other motor in response to rudder input commands. This greatly aids in ground handling and adds a little something extra to snap rolls and spins.

To program differential thrust, begin by setting up one of your program mixes for dual throttle. Plug a spare servo into channel 3 of your receiver and a second spare servo into one of your AUX channels. Set your mix with the throttle as the master and the AUX as the slave. Set this mix as always “on” by choosing any switch and the “null” position. Use 100% for the mix amount. Verify that both servos move in the same direction and move the same amount from idle to full throttle positions.

Next set up a second program mix with the Rudder as master and Throttle as the slave. Choose a switch to activate this function and use a mix amount of 25%. Verify that the servo in channel 3 moves toward the up throttle position when left rudder is applied and toward down throttle when right rudder is applied. If not, change the mix amount to –25% and test the movement again. (Leave link OFF so that it doesn't try to command the aux2 servo to move also.)

Finally set a third program mix with the Rudder as master and AUX as the slave. Choose the same switch and position that you used for the second mix and again use 25% for the mix amount. Verify that the servo in the AUX position moves toward the up throttle position when right rudder is applied and toward the down throttle position when left rudder is applied. If not, change the mix amount to –25% and test the movement again.

Now we are ready to check the programming on the plane. Plug the right hand motor ESC into channel 3 and the left hand motor ESC into the AUX channel. Turn off the switch that controls the differential thrust mixing. Turn on your radio and plug in your batteries to the ESC’s.

First, verify that the throttle control operates both motors in normal fashion. Hold the airplane securely and move the throttle stick from idle to full power. Both motors should track each other from idle to full bore. Now set the throttle stick to the idle position and switch on the differential thrust-mixing switch. Slowly advance the throttle until both motors barely begin to turn. Now move the rudder stick to give full right rudder command. The left motor should speed up and the right motor should stop. Left rudder command should cause the right motor to speed up and the left motor to stop. Taxi test your model, switching the differential thrust “off” and “on” to test the effectiveness of the 25% setting. If you have a paved runway, you may want to reduce the mix amount to 15%.

I think I just learned something about my Futaba 12FG and using a R617FS receiver for my CL415.

I have 2 channels for ailerons and 2 channels for throttle. It seems that FS is only on channel 3, which I can sort of live with.

However, if I go into failsafe, 1 motor (on channel 5) goes to 1/2 throttle. Which is OK if it was a flight surface. But, it isn't.

Am I missing something?

Well, the good news is that I changed over to a HobbyKing Orange TFR8-S receiver and that works great as it has failsafe on all channels.

This is going to be my new favourite receiver. The price point is great. Of course, I had waterproofed the board and frozen the binding switch. So, I just removed the binding switch totally and used some tweezers as a temporary jumper.

I also suspect that it was a receiver failure that caused the last crash of my 2nd and LAST PBY, in that failsafe caused one motor to run and the other not to.

Originally Posted by va3mw

I think I just learned something about my Futaba 12FG and using a R617FS receiver for my CL415.

I have 2 channels for ailerons and 2 channels for throttle. It seems that FS is only on channel 3, which I can sort of live with.

However, if I go into failsafe, 1 motor (on channel 5) goes to 1/2 throttle. Which is OK if it was a flight surface. But, it isn't.

Am I missing something?

Read up on the fail safe settings in your manual. See if you can reset the fail safe on channel 5 to zero throttle.

Ken

I had and you can't on that receiver.