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Old Feb 04, 2013, 04:10 PM
jgestner is offline
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NO YOU CAN NOT have my Pizza Screen!!!!!
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7car7 View Post
I'm curious - do you think water entry direction would be having an effect on flow?
What I mean is that the water is (I'm assuming?) coming into the pump at an angle to the grate. But your testing - does the water come in at 90* to the grate/screen?

Some mesh/screen might not matter, but some seem to have a bit of an angle to them, like expanded metal sheet.
Good point. But either way, if you're crawlin' then as many have said, a little bit of ineffiency is a small price to pay for keeping impellers alive a bit longer. With the screen I use I try to keep the orientation of the expametal such that it helps the water flow in. But I'm not sure how much difference it makes one way or the other. Just makes me feel good.

Chi, as far of the business of small jet drives not being able to use so many blades as the bigger ones whereas (for example) small ducted fans can use multiple blades. Do you think it might be something to do with the fact H2O is approximately 800 times denser than air? And that cavitation in air is not normally a problem until you near supersonic speed. Although lightplanes landing just after commercial jets might disagree with me about that.
Last edited by madbugger; Feb 04, 2013 at 05:27 PM.
Old Feb 04, 2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk989 View Post
When I bent my stock shaft trying to remove a broken impeller, I replaced it with an appropriate length of piano wire of the same diameter, roughed up the shaft where the impeller sits, and applied a dab of shoe goo in front of the impeller as I started to press it on. Hasn't moved since!
Good info. But the fact you bent the shaft trying to remove a broken impeller emphasises how unusual it was to hear Nitro's was slipping. But again, as once before, I'd forgotten shoegoo. That may be the answer until he puts a new whirly thing on. Something that looks less like a pubic hair than that sketch I did for johnnyeros on your behalf
Last edited by madbugger; Feb 04, 2013 at 04:43 PM.
Old Feb 04, 2013, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by madbugger View Post
Good info. But the fact you bent the shaft trying to remove a broken impeller emphasises how unusual it was to hear Nitro's was slipping. But again, as once before, I'd forgotten shoegoo. That may be the answer until he puts a new whirly thing on. Something that looks less like a pubic hair than that sketch I did for johnnyeros on your behalf
Haha! That gave me a good chuckle, thanks!

After bending that shaft, I found the best way to remove an old impeller and install a new one was to tap it off, (and back on when new) with a hammer using some sort of sleeve that fits over the shaft. I think I used a combo of an old oilite bushing and some of the brass tube I used to make my coupling adapter. Sturdy wire strippers may also work, now that I think about it. Once the shaft is flush with the fat end of the impeller, use something slightly smaller than the shaft diameter to tap it out the rest of the way. Also, the stock shaft has splines on it to grip the impeller, highly unlikely that the impeller is slipping, as you said.

I still maintain that shoe goo is the best adhesive for these boats! I cracked my steering nozzle on a rock once and fixed it by coating the entire exterior of the nozzle with shoe goo. Been 2 years or more now and it hasn't even hinted at failure yet! That stuff is so incredibly sticky, and also flexible enough to hang on during the awful bashing, crashing, destructive abuse that the crawlers are subjected to!
Old Feb 04, 2013, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk989 View Post
Haha! That gave me a good chuckle, thanks!

After bending that shaft, I found the best way to remove an old impeller and install a new one was to tap it off, (and back on when new) with a hammer using some sort of sleeve that fits over the shaft. I think I used a combo of an old oilite bushing and some of the brass tube I used to make my coupling adapter. Sturdy wire strippers may also work, now that I think about it. Once the shaft is flush with the fat end of the impeller, use something slightly smaller than the shaft diameter to tap it out the rest of the way. Also, the stock shaft has splines on it to grip the impeller, highly unlikely that the impeller is slipping, as you said.

I still maintain that shoe goo is the best adhesive for these boats! I cracked my steering nozzle on a rock once and fixed it by coating the entire exterior of the nozzle with shoe goo. Been 2 years or more now and it hasn't even hinted at failure yet! That stuff is so incredibly sticky, and also flexible enough to hang on during the awful bashing, crashing, destructive abuse that the crawlers are subjected to!

Hi Guys
I'm not sure you folks outside the US see this stuff as much as we do, but I used it to remount a full electric mirror assembly back together on my old "95 S10 Blazer and sold it in 2005 without ever thinking about it again.

Most people I talk to refer to it as lovingly as I see the Shoe Goo around here. I have no idea as to absolute best uses, but I know it could do a lot of things very well. If it has any cons, it might be more brittle, like CA in some applications, but still a worthy companion to your other adhesives.

I do think it might be a bit too heavy duty for the link between these impellors and shafts.

John

http://www.jbweld.com/products/surfa...ns/automotive/
Old Feb 04, 2013, 07:05 PM
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Fire, all the non us guys love the shoe goo stuff, I'm gonna have Steve send me some to try..
Old Feb 04, 2013, 07:13 PM
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Fire, T, 7, and all the experienced guys here in this new sport, I want to thank you for putting up with us newbies, I hope I contribute something to the thread, I sure try, best I can do is help with all the mechanical engineering facts and practices, but you guys have the practical knowledge, much more important.. thanks for not runnin me off !
Old Feb 04, 2013, 07:46 PM
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As my mind runs toward, quickly, I might add, toward insanity, playing with the flow theory, if someone insane were to SHAPE all the little squares on the screen, to act as mini scoops, you possibly would ADD flow, as we use in full size jets, a scoop grate..would take some REAL close dremel work..
Old Feb 04, 2013, 10:35 PM
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ooh a mixed flow! id love to see an rc version. imagine the nozzle pressure vs the axials. id also love to see a 2 stage ax.
Old Feb 05, 2013, 07:03 AM
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Wow you guys are moving fast with this thread, that's good to see!

The only grates I've used myself are the stocker and than switched to Steve's SS bars shortly after. I've had great experience with them so far, on open water and running the rapids. They are more open than other grates but I've not had any issues thus far. I'm sure I've spoken too soon on that

Chi, I'm far from experienced on this thread, I always figured myself a newb here. If anyone has read any of my stories, I'm the last person you want to take boating advice from It was folks like Mad, Wparsons, Fire, 7 and yourself who guided me to this point. It's been a fun ride from the start!

As for shoe goo, I always buy mine from America off ebay. Loads of it around and I use it for everything.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

I've used JB weld for loads of things when I lived in Canada. It is more brittle than shoe goo, and I would use something like that for larger applications as mentioned like repairing car mirrors. I patched an old radiator with it before and lasted the remaining life of the car. It's great for that sorta stuff, but the shoe goo has that little bit of flexibility while still holding strong. It's amongst my favorite adhesives.

Ok, I started building headers the other day. I'm slow at everything I do, but I have them more or less finished. They are far from perfect, but saved me money and I enjoyed building them too. I've only painted them with primer thus far and not sure if I'll leave them that way or paint them another color. I was just going to leave them like that. Opinions?

I stuck them on the scale too as it was mentioned previously, they are 13.7g each.
Last edited by Tiernan85; Feb 05, 2013 at 07:10 AM.
Old Feb 05, 2013, 07:42 AM
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Our local Menards Lumber has Shoe Goo. I'll have to try some. http://menards.com/main/home-decor/o...466-c-7172.htm
Shoe GOO Model Number: 110131 MenardsŪ SKU: 2511214 $2.79 each
The company that makes it is called Eclectic Products and they have a whole line of things besides the Shoe Goo
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/shoegoo.htm
I see Amazon.com has it too.
Looks interesting.

Really nice job on the Headers Tiernan!
I like the color they are right now.

I've used some of the powdercoat paints for some lead fishing jigs. It gives a nice coating that might be nice on metal parts, but not for plastics, I don't believe. It could be of use for some things in this hobby.
http://www.hiltsmolds.com/PowderCoatPaints.htm (Mostly bright colors, at least at that fishing jig website.)

John in Merrill
Old Feb 05, 2013, 08:00 AM
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That powdercoat paint stuff looks pretty interesting. I like how you can just heat up the piece, dip it in and presto, job done! I'll be on the hunt now for some not so flashy colors.
Old Feb 05, 2013, 08:03 AM
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That powdercoat paint stuff looks pretty interesting. I like how you can just heat up the piece, dip it in and presto, job done! I'll be on the hunt now for some not so flashy colors.
Yea it takes a heated piece, so that's why metal only, but I was amazed how easy and nice the finish was and totally dry and usable in less than a minute usually.
I am sure there are tamer colors available somewhere, it's just that the fishing jigs were the first place I saw the stuff.

John
Old Feb 05, 2013, 08:46 AM
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T, I have seen headers in white, chrome, and black..and been racin for over 30 yrs..never saw blue, green or gray..
Old Feb 05, 2013, 09:08 AM
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Hmm... well I have white and black that I can paint them. I'll try white first and see how I like it, easy enough to paint over black if I want afterwords. Thank Chi


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