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Morning,
Are you guys going to add the motor keel? When I printed the last plans they were only 16" long (approximately) at 100 % scale. I think I messed up Print three times cut once Going to make the fiberglass boat itself today DAIG (design as I go) I keep seeing a Toon Runabout jim |
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The 1/8th ply works well because a standard table saw blade (in the US) leaves a 1/8th kerf. So if you line up the frames and gang cut the slots, the alignment is perfect with minimal clean up. Same with the keel formers. I rigged a small jig from scrap and mounted it on the table saw sled to get the alignment right for all the slots. The frame just falls together with the slot and tab alignment. An area that does present a possible problem is the transom. At 1/8th thick, getting it to bend around the transom shape maybe be difficult. I did some testing last night, not sure it will form. Maybe wetting/soaking the piece or a lamination of thinner pieces will work? I don't want to cut kerfs in the transom to get it to curve as that will weaken it and may "telegraph" through the finish. I'll find out when I get to that point and see what works. If anyone has already completed the transom using 1/8th, let us know how you handled it.
I think a lengthened woody based on this plan would be a BIG hit. I can't wait to see it. Pete |
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He's referring to the motor keel on the original design like I built, however, I haven't published that plan yet. Its much more complicated to build and has several more parts. I will finish the plans this week and put them up. Right now I'm trying to simplify the assembly and reduce the number of parts to make it a better option. |
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Hello Jim, You must have printed them with autoscaling turned on. I would take the file to kinkos and have them printed 100% on a plotter or large format printer. It'll probably cost a few bucks but the only other option is to print them tiled at home and tape all the sheets together. I don't know how to do that but someone else might be able to help you out. |
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30 sounds about right, but I always order a couple different sizes and blade counts, since plastic props are only a couple bucks each. also good to have spares on hand in case you lose one. Also, be sure to get the right drive direction! that is, some props are for right hand, some for left hand. since you want to run it directly from the motor shaft, the prop will rotate counter-clockwise as viewed from the rear of the boat. In the USA I think this is called left-hand, but over here its called right-hand (viewed from the motor side of the prop) |
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What would be a good source for bumpers and fenders for Salty?
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OK,
The smallest three blade props I have found so far are 30mm. I ordered a 30 and 35 in plastic, once I test and determine the right size, I will order a brass one. I need to make a rudder. For the rudder blade did you use brass, plastic, wood or something else? Pete |
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Hi Marter,
I was looking at this for the deck accessories: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XMNH8&P=Z#tech Only has two tires for bumpers though. I am going to try making some out of foam if I can find black foam. I don't want to paint them, think painted foam will always chip and peel. Pete |
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Hi marter I have been looking for bumpers too. I think 50mm tires are the right size and I've been making my own ropes and trying to come up with some use for that. I'm not very experienced with detailing boats so I'd hoped to see some ideas from you guys.
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