"Salty" Flat bottom and box keel tugs - free plans! - Page 25 - RC Groups
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Apr 26, 2012, 07:54 PM
Keep a Steady Strain....
capntroy's Avatar
Originally Posted by blutoh
Thanks capntroy,

I corrected the skegs and made them flush with the keel.

Beauty, she should track nice and straight now.

Also, as a rule of thumb, the bridle legs that are attached to the forward corners of the barge should be approx. 2/3rds as long as the beam of the barge, i.e., if the barge is 12" wide, the bridle legs should be approx. 8" long. The ends of the legs will attach to each other and this is where the end of the towline will connect.
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Apr 27, 2012, 02:05 AM
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JayJay76's Avatar
Thanks for the additional info Capntroy, I wouldn't know where to start with rigging up the towlines. I'm starting my barge this weekend and already I'm dreaming up what sort of cargo to carry.
Apr 27, 2012, 02:22 AM
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JayJay76's Avatar
I'm thinking of building my barge with an exchangeable cargo floor, a regular one for dry loads and a second with round openings and wire cages to allow bottles of beer to hang down in the water, adding drag to the tow and keeping them chilled....
Apr 27, 2012, 05:29 AM
Registered User
ill drink to that idea, lol
Apr 27, 2012, 07:13 AM
GILL RC's Avatar
For a rope bumper, find someone that crotches. Have them do a strip the length you need and about 2in wide with a 6-8 in string on each end.
Die it he color you want, roll with a running stick where the edge meets the roll.
Apr 27, 2012, 07:17 AM
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JayJay76's Avatar
like the corks, i'm looking for something that is recognizable as something else.
Apr 27, 2012, 10:04 AM
In The Sorrano Triangle
Last edited by BOZINATOR; May 09, 2012 at 02:48 AM.
Apr 27, 2012, 10:18 AM
blutoh's Avatar
Thanks for the info about the bridle legs. I am going to the hardware store this weekend to find some twine that looks like scaled down rope.

Yes, I was thinking the the same thing, interchangeable loads. I think I am going to try cutting a block of foam to fit the cargo area, but slightly lower in height. Then glue gravel or coal to the exposed top to simulate the cargo load. Then I can make different loads to swap in or out. I have used this technique on my model railroad cars to save weight. It works great. Eventually I want to build a larger tug with a carfloat loaded with railroad cars, but have to creep before I crawl (and also a yacht, mahogany runabout, springer, commuter, etc etc etc ). This project is a great learnng experience.

Great idea about the crochet bumper. My SIL crochet's, I will have to give my dimensions and put ther to work.

Are you able to see the barge attachments I posted (#360)? Let me know, If not I will try to figure out what's going wrong with my attachments,

Apr 27, 2012, 11:19 AM
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marter1229's Avatar
Side view.

The hull has a layer of 2oz glass.
Apr 27, 2012, 12:35 PM
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Looking real good Marter
Apr 27, 2012, 03:05 PM
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JayJay76's Avatar
Yeah that looks great! sorry to hear about the putty and primer incompatibility, that's the first time I've seen something like that. The stack look good, I can't wait to see your paint scheme.
Apr 27, 2012, 03:12 PM
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JayJay76's Avatar
Hey Gill, do you think it's possible to crochet with twine or scale rope? I might the my hand at it if it's not a dumb idea.
Apr 27, 2012, 04:46 PM
Registered User
little bit more done, this weekend i hope to get it sealed and primered up
Apr 27, 2012, 07:19 PM
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marter1229's Avatar
looking good larryg.

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