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Old Aug 06, 2012, 10:37 AM
Varekai is offline
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If they did a Commanche, I'd be all over that.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 01:17 PM
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I figured this would be faster than searching the whole thread. What is the best lipo for a BL mcpx? The HK nanotechs don't seem to last very long.
Last edited by tonyastro; Aug 06, 2012 at 02:03 PM.
Old Aug 06, 2012, 02:09 PM
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How far(deep) are you discharging them. No LiPoly will give max. cycle life if you fly to below 3.7 per cell often. Increased life comes from not using more than 80% of thier capacity and not leaving them fully charged all of the time just in case you get a chance to fly on the spur of the moment.


I have a Nano 300 with 89 flights on it and it is still going strong. My son has over a hundred on one and it is still one of his strongest Lipolys. We set timer for 3 minutes and cell is right at 3.7 a few minures after flight.

Most agree that the Hyperions are the best but they are not exactly inexpensive and others swear by the Thunder Powers but they are the most expensive ones available.

Charles
Old Aug 06, 2012, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everydayflyer View Post
How far(deep) are you discharging them. No LiPoly will give max. cycle life if you fly to below 3.7 per cell often. Increased life comes from not using more than 80% of thier capacity and not leaving them fully charged all of the time just in case you get a chance to fly on the spur of the moment.


I have a Nano 300 with 89 flights on it and it is still going strong. My son has over a hundred on one and it is still one of his strongest Lipolys. We set timer for 3 minutes and cell is right at 3.7 a few minures after flight.

Most agree that the Hyperions are the best but they are not exactly inexpensive and others swear by the Thunder Powers but they are the most expensive ones available.

Charles
I always store at 3.8V immediately after flying but I fly for 4 mins. Can you give a link to the Hyperions? Thanks.
Old Aug 06, 2012, 03:45 PM
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One good source is rclipos.com or just do a Goggle. One of the members her RC Babble sells an assortment of Hyperions and some Thunder Powers that are stripped of heatshrink to reduce weight and fitted with correct connectors.

The stock 250 mAh Hyperions are plug and play with same housing / coonector as Blade uses.
Old Aug 06, 2012, 04:21 PM
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Thanks guys!
Old Aug 07, 2012, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by boredom.is.me View Post
If you strolled over to my thread, you would see that...
I did and that's how I found the link. I just wanted to make it a little easier for others to find the link. Thank you very much for sharing.
Old Aug 09, 2012, 03:27 AM
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Is it ok to hot glue the 3in1 board? My battery wires keep coming off no matter how good my solder is. I'm thinking of hot gluing the wires to the bottom of the board so the solder can't come loose.
Old Aug 09, 2012, 03:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyastro View Post
Is it ok to hot glue the 3in1 board? My battery wires keep coming off no matter how good my solder is. I'm thinking of hot gluing the wires to the bottom of the board so the solder can't come loose.
Try a dab of silicon sealant on the wires. This will take the load off the joints but is reasonably easy to remove.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 08:21 AM
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do the walkera 120 size blades fit a mcpx ?
Old Aug 09, 2012, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamWilson View Post
Try a dab of silicon sealant on the wires. This will take the load off the joints but is reasonably easy to remove.
If you do this, make sure to use a sealant that is electronics-safe. Many types of regular RTV-type silicone are corrosive to electronics, so you don't want to use them around the board due to the acidic curing process.
Last edited by BuzzBomber; Aug 09, 2012 at 11:59 AM. Reason: added info
Old Aug 09, 2012, 12:19 PM
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Thanks Graham, Buzz. What about you? What do you guys do to prevent the battery wires from coming off?
Old Aug 09, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Thankfully, it hasn't been an issue for me (knock on wood). Mine still has the little bit of sealant at the solder point from the factory intact. Perhaps the routing of the wires from the board to the battery plays a role? I let mine sit loose from the board so the wires don't bend too much, then route the lead outside the front skid support and inside the rear support to the battery connector. It looks like it would contact the servo gears this way, but I haven't had any problem in a couple hundred flights.


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