Originally Posted by everydayflyer

I use DeoxIT D5 in spary can and twist a CA Applicator onto the end of the DeoxIT red spray tube. I place the end of the CA applicator in the servo's slot righ above the nylon block (servo's out put) and apply a short burst with Deoxit can set to low. It takes about 2 min. total to do all 3 servos.. I did one mCPX when new ,again at around 75 flights and again at 175 flights . I am now at 250 flights and I have have zero servo problems.

I also have done the same to my son's mCPX and to another one I have which only has aprox. 50 flights on it. We have had no issues . I did disassemble one servo at 65 flights to check it and it looked fine so I just reassembled and reinsatlled as it was.

+1!

After about 20 hours or so of flight-time, I thought my mCP X needed new servos. Picked up some DeoxIT & cleaned the servos, which did the trick. I've got about 90 hours on the bird now & the original servos are still working well. I just clean them every so often.

Joel

I have used and rrecomended DeoxIT for years and the first reaction from most is that stuff cost to much and I can by this other brand for 1/4 that cost.

What can I say ,I tend to purchase better quality equipment, take reasonable care of it and also expect to last for years. In the case of micro servos I hate the idea of removing,disassembly and rinstalling. If I had to do mine as often as some claim I would set the heli on the shelf. I also believe that many are in fact causing accelerated wear with excess cleaning .

Charles

Originally Posted by everydayflyer

What can I say ,I tend to purchase better quality equipment, take reasonable care of it and also expect to last for years.

Charles

My Dad always told me when I was growing up to never scrimp on tools because good quality tools will make the job easier. I have always bought the best ones I could afford.

Charles,

I was introduced to DeoxIT back in my music business days. Back when smoking in bars was allowed, cigarette smoke wreaked havoc on mixing consoles. I used FaderLube on the pots & sliders, and I used D5 Gold on the switches. DeoxIT was the first product I had used that worked over the long-term on live mixing consoles. Oddly, I had not thought about using it on these servos until someone recommended it in this thread.

I also tend to buy quality products. I'd rather buy once than two or three times, and I generally prefer quality over quantity.

Zeta,

My dad taught me the same thing. I've done it both ways, and he was right! Quality tools often make the difference between a frustrating experience & an enjoyable one.

Joel

I ordered a can from a Amazon supplier for $10.50 + 3.50 shipping, seems reasonable to be, should be a lifetime supply for micro-servos. I cleaned each of my servos at least once, now they are jittering again and I do not want to dissassemble them again, what a PITA I was just going to radio shack to buy some contact cleaner, this stuff gets good marks so I decided to bite the bullet. Now I can't fly my mCPx for 5-7 days Not worth tearing all three servos apart, I'll just wait for the DeoxIT

The do sell DeoxIT and DeoxIT Gold as a pack at Radio Shack in case you were desperate.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104746

Wow, heard so much about this stuff I thought I'd see if I could get hold of some in the UK. Didn't realise there was so many different types would someone mind pointing out the one or more I should be getting from this link please.

http://www.audioaffair.co.uk/index.p...it&act=viewCat

Thanks

Originally Posted by Aviefly

Wow, heard so much about this stuff I thought I'd see if I could get hold of some in the UK. Didn't realise there was so many different types would someone mind pointing out the one or more I should be getting from this link please.

http://www.audioaffair.co.uk/index.p...it&act=viewCat

Thanks

Aviefly,

I prefer the FaderLube (Fader F-Series) for this application, as it is formulated for potentiometers & resistive strips: http://www.audioaffair.co.uk/Caig-La...g/product_6127

If there's lots of oxidation, I use D5 first & then follow up with FaderLube: http://www.audioaffair.co.uk/Caig-La...g/product_1150

Joel

Main ones...

1. DeoxIT is the cleaner and rejuvenator. They call this the D-Series.

2. DeoxIT Gold is for gold plated contacts. You use it after you clean with the one above, and it enhances and protects those gold types of contact material. They call this the G-Series.

3. DeoxIT Fader is made for potentiometer and resistive strips like turboparker said. They call this the F-Series

4. There's also a DeoxIT Shield. Which is a sealant and protectant against hard environment. Like near the sea. They call this the S-Series.

The small bottles contains 100% proof of the product.

The ones in the aerosol that has a D-5 means there's 5% of the product. The rest is a carrier like Naptha, that quickly evaporate, leaving the solution behind.

For the 100% solution, a little goes a long way. You want to remove any excess after 2mins. Then wait about 2mins before turning on the device.

For the mCPX servos...the DeoxIT fader is all you need. But if it's already dirty, clean it with the DeoxIT first. Then follow by the fader.

I made the 3/4 inch longer boom mod. It is better than stock, but still spins about 30-45 degrees when I bump the collective. I am using a pair of KBDD blades and tail rotor (if that matters). How should I fix this?

Also, I just got a new green canopy for my mCP X. When I use the cyclic controls, it makes a weird noise and doesn't react as well, but when I take the canopy off, it's fine. I'm guessing that the canopy is rubbing against the servos, but I can't find anywhere that it does that.

One more thing, when I fly with the new green canopy, it vibrates just the tiniest bit, but I think that is what is affecting the cyclic controls.

HELP, PLEASE!!!

-joker

Make sure servo links arn't bent and the wires from the servos don't interfere with their travel.

I changed from the KBDD tail to the V2 tail rotor and noticed an immediate improvement. You might try twisting more pitch into the KBDD tail blade - just bend with your fingers. I am starting to wonder if the KBDD's are better than stock as I have had a few problems with them.

Originally Posted by stevebarrow

I changed from the KBDD tail to the V2 tail rotor and noticed an immediate improvement. You might try twisting more pitch into the KBDD tail blade - just bend with your fingers. I am starting to wonder if the KBDD's are better than stock as I have had a few problems with them.

Tried a set of KDBB blades and went back to stock as I couldn't tell the difference.

Hmmm...maybe I should sell my KBDD blades and get new stock ones? My stock blades are a little scratched up right now.

-joker

Originally Posted by joker24458

Hmmm...maybe I should sell my KBDD blades and get new stock ones? My stock blades are a little scratched up right now.

-joker

It is a matter of preference imo. I use kbdd main blades and V2 tail rotor. I also like the stock blades as well. The performance ones that is. I didn't like the kbdd skids as I found them very weak.

J