I can remember when I first got my MSR I thought I wouldn't be able to fly it. Now I have an MCPX. I searched quite a bit and this thread has over 600 pages. I am having trouble finding some basic help.

I have 30 years of RC experience and a year on the mSR and a small amount of time on an SR. To me the SR is irrelevant though because it is a pile of .

So, I started out this afternoon and was able to establish a short hover. Tonight I am having trouble even lifting off. It wants to tip over to the left or right or seems to get stuck wanting to pitch forward or aft as if the trim is confused. The manual says to keep the stick neutral while lifting off but mine seems to need a lot of input while it is getting light.

I tried lifting off the hardwood floor so there is no resistance. I tried to really sneak up on the collective to get it light real slow so I can see if it is trimmed neutral but it is inconstant in which way it wants to drift. The drift isn't small either so it seems to be asking for a lot of correction and then I immediately get into over responding since I am new to CP.

Any ideas?

Make sure your your main drive gear has not slipped down on the shaft.
If it has the whole shaft will lift up and the heli will behave like that.

Also make sure all three servos are still moving correctly.

It can also behave like that if you have it bound in "computer transmitter"
mode and you are using the DX4e.

But start with the simple stuff before you try rebinding it.

You have to "fly" the cyclic all the time.
It won't self level while on the ground if you let go of the stick, you have to give control to get it flat again.

Pat MacKenzie

Originally Posted by pmackenzie

Make sure your your main drive gear has not slipped down on the shaft.
If it has the whole shaft will lift up and the heli will behave like that.

Also make sure all three servos are still moving correctly.

It can also behave like that if you have it bound in "computer transmitter"
mode and you are using the DX4e.

But start with the simple stuff before you try rebinding it.

You have to "fly" the cyclic all the time.
It won't self level while on the ground if you let go of the stick, you have to give control to get it flat again.

Pat MacKenzie

Pat,

Checked the main drive gear and servos and no issues there. My radio is a DX8 and it was programmed by downloading the default program form Horizon support. I downloaded it to my SD card and then imported it directly to the radio. The only changes I have made are in the expo and dual rates just trying to find a happy medium with the control levels.

Dave

Dave,

When mine was acting up my lhs had me start a new model! I have a dx6i and you have an 8 so you should have a empty spot. Start new, re-download the settings and bind again. It help me.

And before you alter the settings try it stock.


James

Originally Posted by Butters

Dave,

When mine was acting up my lhs had me start a new model! I have a dx6i and you have an 8 so you should have a empty spot. Start new, re-download the settings and bind again. It help me.

And before you alter the settings try it stock.


James

James,

I give that a shot. Have not changed a lot of settings but mostly dual rates and expo to try and find a tame combination but I will start over and see.

I have a feeling it is just fine muscle/motor skills training and it requires a lot of practice. I bet it is like those days when you thought you would never ride a bike and then all of a sudden it works. The muscle memory has to be there most likely so you don't think about the mechanics.

Thanks,

Dave

Here's an odd one (I think). The spur gear (the bigger gear) on one linear servo has gone missing after a crash (or caused the crash). Of course it's nearly impossible to find a tiny 6mm size nylon gear in the grass...

Question. Is there an alternative to spending $22 plus postage on a whole servo to just get a spur gear that fits ?

Thanks,
Martin

Do not give ANY cyclic input until you're airborne. Don't try to sneak up slowly on collective, as weird stuff can happen when it's light on the skids. Give collective a smooth push and get it off the ground before applying any corrective inputs.

Start off with 60% rates on ail/ele. That's plenty enough for steering it around at first.

Hi Payne9999!

Do not TRIM a flybarless helicopter.
Flybarless helis shall not be trimmed at all (as long as it's correctly mechanically set up, which is the case with a stock MCPx). Trimming will disturb the flybarless-control-unit in any case.
For lift-off, because it's flybarless, you shall not touch the cyclic controls as long as the heli isn't off ground. Leave the cyclic controls untouched, spin up the rotor and lift off quickly. Then only, you can give cyclic input.
Do not waste your time (and spare parts) on trying to do slow take-offs yet. It is difficult and you do need more knowledge both about helicopters in general and especially what it implies when flybarless, to do that.

pmackenzie tells you to "fly the cyclic all the time". This is correct, but is easy to misunderstand... What pmackenzie means by that, is that you have to be prepared for this kind of helis and that, the difference compared to what you have allready flown, is mainly the absence of self-leveling ability. This means the heli will stay in the position you put it in until you pilot it to do something else.
A good advice is to only give small, short inputs to the cyclic, recenter the sticks and let the heli react. In other words, let the heli "fly itself", react to inputs, before giving more commands.
Remember: once an input's given, the heli stays in that position. This means that to tilt the heli forward (i.e. to make the heli translate into forward flight), only a short input has to be given once. In contradiction with i.e. a coaxial heli where you have to continue pushing the stick to maintain forward flight.

Happy landings ;-)

Originally Posted by Chrizz

Hi Payne9999!

Do not TRIM a flybarless helicopter.
Flybarless helis shall not be trimmed at all (as long as it's correctly mechanically set up, which is the case with a stock MCPx). Trimming will disturb the flybarless-control-unit in any case.
For lift-off, because it's flybarless, you shall not touch the cyclic controls as long as the heli isn't off ground. Leave the cyclic controls untouched, spin up the rotor and lift off quickly. Then only, you can give cyclic input.
Do not waste your time (and spare parts) on trying to do slow take-offs yet. It is difficult and you do need more knowledge both about helicopters in general and especially what it implies when flybarless, to do that.

pmackenzie tells you to "fly the cyclic all the time". This is correct, but is easy to misunderstand... What pmackenzie means by that, is that you have to be prepared for this kind of helis and that, the difference compared to what you have allready flown, is mainly the absence of self-leveling ability. This means the heli will stay in the position you put it in until you pilot it to do something else.
A good advice is to only give small, short inputs to the cyclic, recenter the sticks and let the heli react. In other words, let the heli "fly itself", react to inputs, before giving more commands.
Remember: once an input's given, the heli stays in that position. This means that to tilt the heli forward (i.e. to make the heli translate into forward flight), only a short input has to be given once. In contradiction with i.e. a coaxial heli where you have to continue pushing the stick to maintain forward flight.

Happy landings ;-)

I trim rudder on mine, it has always drifted from new, had 3 tails and 2 Tx, all the same. Trim improves it for me.

Originally Posted by PLMS

Here's an odd one (I think). The spur gear (the bigger gear) on one linear servo has gone missing after a crash (or caused the crash). Of course it's nearly impossible to find a tiny 6mm size nylon gear in the grass...

Question. Is there an alternative to spending $22 plus postage on a whole servo to just get a spur gear that fits ?

Thanks,
Martin

Hey I had this exact same problem the other day at the field lol. I called around looking for a servo and then realized that I had 10 of them in the car. I took one of the as2000L servos apart and just popped the cap off the end. You dont even have to dissemble the mcpx servo, just pop it on. Take a tooth pick and a tiny drop of CA on the toothpick and dont use kicker as that can cause the CA to run. Hope this helps!

Oh if you dont have a spare servo, I will disassemble one of mine and send you the gear you need. Let me know!

has anyone using the kbdd tail rotor had experienced the tail blowing out more often then if you were using the stock tail rotor?

was using the kbdd's but switched back to stock with better results

Originally Posted by BenScoobert

I trim rudder on mine, it has always drifted from new, had 3 tails and 2 Tx, all the same. Trim improves it for me.

Me too.

Originally Posted by cloudflying

Hey I had this exact same problem the other day at the field lol. I called around looking for a servo and then realized that I had 10 of them in the car. I took one of the as2000L servos apart and just popped the cap off the end. You dont even have to dissemble the mcpx servo, just pop it on. Take a tooth pick and a tiny drop of CA on the toothpick and dont use kicker as that can cause the CA to run. Hope this helps!

Oh if you dont have a spare servo, I will disassemble one of mine and send you the gear you need. Let me know!

Thanks for the reply.
I don't have a spare as2000l servo that I know of. I googled the as2000l and it came out looking like the servo already in the mCPX. Is that what you meant ?

I do have a big bag of dead normal micro servos at home, maybe a gear from one of them will fit.

Martin

Originally Posted by PLMS

Me too.

I also play with cyclic on spool up as required.

I agree that it is best to take off positively, and not mess with the cyclic.
What I meant by "fly the cyclic" was that you have to look at the rotor disk all the time. If for some reason (like you messed with the cyclic during spool up) it is leaning to one side when taking off then you have to get it flat again or the heli will simply roll over when it gets light on the skids.

Pat MacKenzie