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Dec 08, 2011, 05:54 PM
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Stugoose's Avatar
Does anyone here want to buy an mcpx board minus the battery clip on harness 35 bucks shipped
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Dec 08, 2011, 06:00 PM
Registered User
timox72's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugoose
Does anyone here want to buy an mcpx board minus the battery clip on harness 35 bucks shipped
Hi Stugoose,

By causality you wouldn't be wanting to ship to Spain would you? I'm interested
Dec 08, 2011, 06:05 PM
throw new IOPilotException();
IceWind's Avatar
Thanks!
It's shopping time for blades and some other parts.
Dec 08, 2011, 06:17 PM
Registered User
Stugoose's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by timox72
Hi Stugoose,

By causality you wouldn't be wanting to ship to Spain would you? I'm interested



I would but for a little extra
Dec 08, 2011, 06:58 PM
Registered User
timox72's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugoose
I would but for a little extra
For sure, just tell me how much
Dec 08, 2011, 07:15 PM
I'd rather be flying!
turboparker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiskey
I'm a little disappointed.

I fly this thing all the time, and I always thought the head looked a little "Clunky" - so I upgraded to the aluminum center part, Aluminum grips, Microheli swash-plate (helps eliminate slop too), and Aluminum main-shaft.

After 2 flights the main-shaft is bent, and though the grips lasted much longer, the bearings eventually blew out in them, and the part that holds the ball bent.

I expected much better longevity, I hate to go back to the clunky looking stock head, especially after I spent so much to get a much cooler looking one, but the stock one I never had any problems with.

Do any of you guys with this aluminum stuff have the same results?

Whiskey
Wow. Do you crash a lot without hitting TH?

Aluminum parts weren't designed to make a heli crash-proof. In fact, plastic parts often fare better in a hard crash. Hence, why you typically don't see a lot of aluminum on beginner helis. I have MH's full-metal-head & swash. The MH hub is tighter than the plastic one, and it uses higher-durometer dampers. The aluminum shaft spins much truer than the stock hollow c/f shaft, however it bends easily in a crash. My MH grips were defective. The screw hole is further out on one than the other by a few thousandths of an inch - just enough to throw everything out of balance. The MH swash is much better than the stocker.

I am currently using the MH hub, swash, and their new solid c/f mainshaft. I went back to my 'B' grips with Boca bearings. After a few hundred flights, the bearings are still slop-free.

Joel
Dec 08, 2011, 07:38 PM
Heli Mad
stevebarrow's Avatar
I bent my aluminium shaft on the 3rd flight trying inverted and hit the deck fully inverted I subsequently went back to the cf shaft and will keep it that way. I also use the MH swash and this in now my only modded head part.
Old Dec 08, 2011, 07:59 PM
raydys
A moderator felt this post violated the following rule: Cross-posting.
Dec 08, 2011, 08:17 PM
3D VFX Artist
tonyastro's Avatar
Is it better to connect the yellow wire from thesteve to the resistor or to the + side of the motor connector? I prefer the motor connector as my soldering skills are weak.
Dec 08, 2011, 08:37 PM
.................
Dylwad's Avatar
Resistor by far!

Its not that hard to solder, strip 1mm on the end of the yellow wire and tin it, clean the tip of your iron and get a small blob of solder on the end and quickly tap the spot on the resistor just to transfer some solder to it, hold the wire on the resistor and touch it with a clean iron, takes less than a second.
Dec 08, 2011, 08:44 PM
3D VFX Artist
tonyastro's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylwad
Resistor by far!

Its not that hard to solder, strip 1mm on the end of the yellow wire and tin it, clean the tip of your iron and get a small blob of solder on the end and quickly tap the spot on the resistor just to transfer some solder to it, hold the wire on the resistor and touch it with a clean iron, takes less than a second.
Thanks! Will do!
Dec 08, 2011, 08:48 PM
Augernaut
Wookster's Avatar
oooh, crash damage is worse than anticipated. What looked like a sliver of CF sticking out of the tail boom was really just a hint of the damage. It looks like the whole rod is feathered at the end that goes into the heli. I guess its a good excuse to get the better tail off the V2 right? I've had the thing less than a week and I'm already fighting the underpowered tail.
Dec 08, 2011, 09:22 PM
Heli Mad
stevebarrow's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookster
oooh, crash damage is worse than anticipated. What looked like a sliver of CF sticking out of the tail boom was really just a hint of the damage. It looks like the whole rod is feathered at the end that goes into the heli. I guess its a good excuse to get the better tail off the V2 right? I've had the thing less than a week and I'm already fighting the underpowered tail.
Buy a better battery (like the ones Dywald has) and the KBDD tail blade and the tail problem will be nearly resolved - have you reduced the pitch travel to help with this?
Dec 08, 2011, 09:38 PM
Registered User
Stugoose's Avatar
just a little indoor fun flight no inverted, v3 tail stock mcpx with bullet blades and grommets on all 3 swash balls
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWPs6U0EMg0
Dec 09, 2011, 12:49 AM
Registered User
Forgive me guys since I know that somewhere buried in this thread is the answer, but what are you using to mount Hyperion 550's in an MPCX?

Thanks,
Ben Minor


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