Originally Posted by maukabud

Who's gonna be the first idiot err ahhh hobbyist I mean to put their mCP on floats?

I did floats for the CX2 and the S300.. It's not just a mater of getting the heli to float but to support it on the water so that it will not tip over when trying to fly it off the water.. They need to be a lot longer and wider than you would think.. And even then you have to be very careful as rolling it over nose first is to easy.. And the size required causes a lot of extra power to be needed to counter the force of the air blowing down on them add in the extra weight and you end up with a pig to fly.. After flipping them over to often and burning out some parts I gave up on it..

+1 on the float size. I know a guy who has a fleet of Blade 400s, one of them on floats. He tried several different sizes of foam floats working his way up to and eventually settling on GWS floats that were sold to go with the "400-size" Tiger Moth. He said those were the smallest he could get to work - they look HUGE on there.

I picked up a new feathering shaft today and I'm about to go crazy trying to install it! It seems like the shaft isn't long enough to reach the screw on the other end!

How in the world are you guys replacing these? I had to magnetize my screw driver just to get that tiny screw down in there but when I try to screw it in it just spins so it's not catching the shaft (and I'm holding the other side with the flat head screw driver so that's not the issue).

I've got the o-rings and little washers on both sides just like I'm supposed to. Any tips??

Try taking the FS out and screw the screw into the shaft. Will it tighten? If not bad FS or screw. If it does then inspect the blade grips to ensure they are properly seated. Then inspect the head and make sure the dampers are properly seated. Then it should go together fine.

You should be able to see that with all the hardware installed except for the screw the end of the shaft should be even with the grip bearing. If not the shaft maybe too short.

Good Luck, Don

Checked the screw - it tightens just fine. The dampers in the rotor head are fully seated.

What should I be looking for to ensure that the blade grips are properly seated? Are you talking about the bearings in the grips? If so, they are flush with the end of the grips.

One other question though - in the manual, it only shows one O-ring on the left side of the blade grips and nothing on the right (it just shows the one that goes into the rotor head). But the package comes with two. Should I have an O-ring on each side or just one side? It seems like they'd go on both sides but maybe that's my issue...

Originally Posted by turnerm

Checked the screw - it tightens just fine. The dampers in the rotor head are fully seated.

What should I be looking for to ensure that the blade grips are properly seated? Are you talking about the bearings in the grips? If so, they are flush with the end of the grips.

One other question though - in the manual, it only shows one O-ring on the left side of the blade grips and nothing on the right (it just shows the one that goes into the rotor head). But the package comes with two. Should I have an O-ring on each side or just one side? It seems like they'd go on both sides but maybe that's my issue...

Just the other day you were saying that your heli only came with one damper installed right.. And now you can't get the feathering shaft screw in because the shaft is to short... I think you have more dampers than you think in the head.. One damper goes on each side of the head and they should be flush with the hole in the head the step washers go one on each side with the smaller step towards the bearing larger side to the damper..

Originally Posted by livonia bob

Just the other day you were saying that your heli only came with one damper installed right.. And now you can't get the feathering shaft screw in because the shaft is to short... I think you have more dampers than you think in the head.. One damper goes on each side of the head and they should be flush with the hole in the head the step washers go one on each side with the smaller step towards the bearing larger side to the damper..

OK - this is most likely my issue then. But if you look at the manual it clearly shows two dampers going into the holes in the rotor head and then the washers and then another damper/o-ring. Confusing.

But it sounds like you're saying that there should just be two dampers and two washers total and that the dampers go in the rotor head right? But take at look at the manual and you'll see what I'm talking about...

Originally Posted by turnerm

OK - this is most likely my issue then. But if you look at the manual it clearly shows two dampers going into the holes in the rotor head and then the washers and then another damper/o-ring. Confusing.

But it sounds like you're saying that there should just be two dampers and two washers total and that the dampers go in the rotor head right? But take at look at the manual and you'll see what I'm talking about...

All I see from left to right are grip, bearing, washer, damper, head, damper, washer, bearing , grip...

Originally Posted by livonia bob

All I see from left to right are grip, bearing, washer, damper, head, damper, washer, bearing , grip...

Dang! Manual is wrong then. Tried this and it fit right on there.

Now my gear has slipped and isn't aligned with the flat part of the shaft. Does the gear just slide off?

Originally Posted by turnerm

Dang! Manual is wrong then. Tried this and it fit right on there.

Now my gear has slipped and isn't aligned with the flat part of the shaft. Does the gear just slide off?

I looked at the online manual and it's correct what one are you looking at??

Yes pull the gear off, line it up and push it back on till you feel/hear it snap into place.. I use my HD gear setting tool for this part..

Originally Posted by livonia bob

I looked at the online manual and it's correct what one are you looking at??

Yes pull the gear off, line it up and push it back on till you feel/hear it snap into place.. I use my HD gear setting tool for this part..

That gear was a bit of pain to pop off but I got it. Then I crashed and it slipped again so I popped up back up into place and THEN noticed that it wasn't aligned with the flat spot. So I just held the shaft and twisted and it worked. Probably not the best way to do it but it worked.

Regarding the manual - maybe I mistook the bearings for o-rings? They look identical on the exploded map...

Originally Posted by turnerm

That gear was a bit of pain to pop off but I got it. Then I crashed and it slipped again so I popped up back up into place and THEN noticed that it wasn't aligned with the flat spot. So I just held the shaft and twisted and it worked. Probably not the best way to do it but it worked.

Regarding the manual - maybe I mistook the bearings for o-rings? They look identical on the exploded map...

The mCP doesn't use O ring in the head for dampers that is one place that the manual is wrong, they are square rings..


I told you to pull it off so that you don't crack the shaft by twisting it into place..

Originally Posted by turnerm

So I just held the shaft and twisted and it worked. Probably not the best way to do it but it worked.

I usually twist the gear back into position, and then press it up against the bearing - it's not necessary to take it off first.

Originally Posted by RobinBennett

I usually twist the gear back into position, and then press it up against the bearing - it's not necessary to take it off first.

There is always a right way and a wrong way to do something it seems...

I think that twisting the gear back into alignment is risky. The grain in the carbon fiber main shaft is in the long direction and twisting may crack the mainshaft.

YMMV, Don

Originally Posted by RobinBennett

I usually twist the gear back into position, and then press it up against the bearing - it's not necessary to take it off first.