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I did floats for the CX2 and the S300.. It's not just a mater of getting the heli to float but to support it on the water so that it will not tip over when trying to fly it off the water.. They need to be a lot longer and wider than you would think.. And even then you have to be very careful as rolling it over nose first is to easy.. And the size required causes a lot of extra power to be needed to counter the force of the air blowing down on them add in the extra weight and you end up with a pig to fly.. After flipping them over to often and burning out some parts I gave up on it.. |
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+1 on the float size. I know a guy who has a fleet of Blade 400s, one of them on floats. He tried several different sizes of foam floats working his way up to and eventually settling on GWS floats that were sold to go with the "400-size" Tiger Moth. He said those were the smallest he could get to work - they look HUGE on there.
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I picked up a new feathering shaft today and I'm about to go crazy trying to install it! It seems like the shaft isn't long enough to reach the screw on the other end!
How in the world are you guys replacing these? I had to magnetize my screw driver just to get that tiny screw down in there but when I try to screw it in it just spins so it's not catching the shaft (and I'm holding the other side with the flat head screw driver so that's not the issue). I've got the o-rings and little washers on both sides just like I'm supposed to. Any tips?? |
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Try taking the FS out and screw the screw into the shaft. Will it tighten? If not bad FS or screw. If it does then inspect the blade grips to ensure they are properly seated. Then inspect the head and make sure the dampers are properly seated. Then it should go together fine.
You should be able to see that with all the hardware installed except for the screw the end of the shaft should be even with the grip bearing. If not the shaft maybe too short. Good Luck, Don |
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Checked the screw - it tightens just fine. The dampers in the rotor head are fully seated.
What should I be looking for to ensure that the blade grips are properly seated? Are you talking about the bearings in the grips? If so, they are flush with the end of the grips. One other question though - in the manual, it only shows one O-ring on the left side of the blade grips and nothing on the right (it just shows the one that goes into the rotor head). But the package comes with two. Should I have an O-ring on each side or just one side? It seems like they'd go on both sides but maybe that's my issue... |
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But it sounds like you're saying that there should just be two dampers and two washers total and that the dampers go in the rotor head right? But take at look at the manual and you'll see what I'm talking about... |
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Now my gear has slipped and isn't aligned with the flat part of the shaft. Does the gear just slide off? |
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I looked at the online manual and it's correct what one are you looking at?? Yes pull the gear off, line it up and push it back on till you feel/hear it snap into place.. I use my HD gear setting tool for this part.. |
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Regarding the manual - maybe I mistook the bearings for o-rings? They look identical on the exploded map... |
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The mCP doesn't use O ring in the head for dampers that is one place that the manual is wrong, they are square rings.. I told you to pull it off so that you don't crack the shaft by twisting it into place.. |
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I think that twisting the gear back into alignment is risky. The grain in the carbon fiber main shaft is in the long direction and twisting may crack the mainshaft.
YMMV, Don |
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