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Old Aug 18, 2011, 08:54 AM
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G Willie, don't forget your pics denoting the differences between the Fox 1/2a engines:



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Old Aug 18, 2011, 09:16 AM
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kill your idols
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earlwb View Post
I still have a couple of NIB Fox .07 RC engines myself. I am planning on using them one of these days, but it hasn't happened yet.









these are some of the best rc 1/2a made before 1980!
dude your uber lucky 2 new in the pack!
Old Aug 18, 2011, 12:22 PM
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Yeah I really like them myself.

The FOX .049 FAI engine is arguably equal to or even better than a Cox Tee Dee .049 engine. It has a little longer stroke, so it doesn't rev up quite as high but it can turn a larger prop or a prop with more pitch in the blades than a TeeDee can.
the free flight guys used to really love them for a few years. it also has sub-piston port induction like the Cox Tee Dee's do too.





Here is one of my sport .049's from 1962:


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Old Aug 18, 2011, 12:26 PM
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and here is my Fox Comet version .07 engine circa 1959 example.
it is a pretty awesome engine in that it is suppposed to be able to turn a 8x2.5 prop at 12,000 RPMS.







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Old Aug 18, 2011, 01:47 PM
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Time for me to Fly...
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I know.... I said I wasn't going to buy it but I made the gentlemen an offer and to my surprise, he accepted. So, now it mine.

Here is the deal... I believe its never been run, as the seller stated but it's stuck like concrete. I know acetone and heat, right Bob. In looking at it, I'm tempted to completely submerse it in acetone and let it set for a little while. Is that advisable? Also, it has a plastic Perry carb that isn't stuck but it turns very slowly. Can the Perry carb be exposed to acetone without damage?

Also, there is some funny pinkish looking stuff on the underside of one exhaust. It looks like ink or something to me. Will this clean off with acetone too? At this point I've bought enough stuck engines I'm tempted to get an ultrasonic cleaner. Does anyone use these for engines? If so, can you recommend one and a solution to use in it?

Thanks in advance.
Mike
Old Aug 18, 2011, 01:59 PM
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Contratulations on your new find.
I would not dunk the perry carb in acetone. But it ought to be fine for the engine itself.
I would remove the backplate where the carb goes on, so you can get inside the engine as well. If the reed valve is plastic then do not soak it in acetone as well.

After a good soaking and or heat, you want to oil it up good of course as the acetone will tend to remove any oils protecting the engine from corrosion.
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 03:49 PM
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Bill Mohrbacher, MECA Fox Guy
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Talking about Acetone soaks and heat guns scares heck out of me. Sounds like an invitation to a big flash or kaboom!

A pan of acetone large enough to cover a Ross twin is a lot of acetone! Lots of fumes hanging around!

Heat without the acetone soak sounds quite sane. Also, several of the MECA guys have found 50-50 acetone auto transmission fluid unsticks many things and leaves a nice ATF film. But that's after the heat.

Just my cautious opinion.
Old Aug 18, 2011, 05:19 PM
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G Willie has a point, acetone and heat guns don't mix. Be careful if you go that route.
Plus like he stated that is a lot of acetone to cover a twin engine good.

I quit using acetone for a lot of things as they don't make the caps on the containers good anymore. The last two small cans of acetone I bought and used just a little out of wound up empty because the cap on them doesn't seal very well and the acetone evaporated out on me.

If the engine was never run, it may be super sticky packing oil inside. You might have to soak it in gasoline overnight. I had to do that with some Russian engines myself.

Anyway, most of the time using kerosene or WD-40 liberally and being careful with a heat gun to heat up the engine good usually loosens them up for me. Kerosene actually makes a decent penetrating oil itself. But be careful of the fumes in any case as the stuff is still flammable although not as flammable as acetone.
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 05:21 PM
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RE: Kolm Engines


Hey, hear the sound of 3 Cyl. Inline Kolm, 200 ccm :


P-51 The Galloping Ghost @ Warbirds over Oberhausen (3 min 33 sec)


Have fun and turn up the Volume

Sebastian
Old Aug 18, 2011, 05:33 PM
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I know enough not to use the acetone and heat at the same time.... I'll be careful. I promise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by G WILLIE View Post
Talking about Acetone soaks and heat guns scares heck out of me. Sounds like an invitation to a big flash or kaboom!

A pan of acetone large enough to cover a Ross twin is a lot of acetone! Lots of fumes hanging around!

Heat without the acetone soak sounds quite sane. Also, several of the MECA guys have found 50-50 acetone auto transmission fluid unsticks many things and leaves a nice ATF film. But that's after the heat.

Just my cautious opinion.
Old Aug 18, 2011, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz View Post
Here is the deal... I believe its never been run, as the seller stated but it's stuck like concrete. I know acetone and heat, right Bob. In looking at it, I'm tempted to completely submerse it in acetone and let it set for a little while. Is that advisable? Also, it has a plastic Perry carb that isn't stuck but it turns very slowly. Can the Perry carb be exposed to acetone without damage?
Mike
Wiz, I feel pretty sure that acetone will not harm the Perry, but to be on the safe side (as others have said) I would remove it before dunking in acetone. Having said all that, it probably won't need an acetone bath at all - it will probably move when you bolt a prop on. Here's what you do - bolt a prop on, then slacken both plugs, but do not remove them entirely from the heads. Warm the engine in an oven - only hot enough that you can still hold it comfortably in your bare hand. The prop should now turn - if it does, remove the plugs and start squirting oil in all the holes (exhaust, plug, intake etc.) By turning the engine now with warm oil in there, it should free up by itself without any more treatment. If it doesn't, let me know. BOB
Old Aug 18, 2011, 08:41 PM
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On eBay UK - I had a dog once with a head like that !
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hiness-20-...item336adb9a4b
Old Aug 18, 2011, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by G WILLIE View Post
Talking about Acetone soaks and heat guns scares heck out of me. Sounds like an invitation to a big flash or kaboom!
Bill, just to put your mind at rest, I don't think anyone's advocating doing these two operations together. They are quite separate - sorta like smoking and filling the gas tank ! I advise using heat to get an engine moving initially, but when its cooled (and in another part of the house, preferably in the back shed with good ventilation) then it can be bathed in the acetone. BOB
Old Aug 18, 2011, 09:38 PM
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Ok... I got it all freed up and cleaned and oiled. I removed the Perry carb and attempted to remove the back plate but no way. It wouldn't budge so I gave it an acetone bath for about 5 minutes. It was still stuck.... Too hard to turn with a prop on it. I soaked it a little more and then dried it off. Next came the heat. This loosened it up enough to turn just slightly. Back into the acetone it went. Now it started to move. I removed the drive plate and exposed the bearing. It was full of sludge. I figured the rest of the inside looked like that. I managed to pop off the back plate and the paper gasket broke into three pieces. That bearing too was filled with sludge too. I used a tooth brush and some cotton swabs and acetone and WD40 and after about an hour of cleaning it was all done. I placed the three pieces of the gasket back on an re assembled. Now the bearings are as smooth as silk and very tight too. I put the glow plugs back in and gave it a flip through compression. What a wonderful pop sound it made. I had to to that several more times before I put it up on the shelf. Boy does it look good sitting there next to the other engines. Maybe some day I'll get me the 4 and 6 banger to go along with it.


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