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May 23, 2011, 07:47 PM
Registered User
Thanx for all the fast help what brand battery to you guys find the best for performace and price for the 4s 4000?
Thanx Dean
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May 23, 2011, 07:49 PM
Registered User
3DBobz's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Dflyer54
Thanx for all the fast help what brand battery to you guys find the best for performace and price for the 4s 4000?
Thanx Dean
I am using these
May 23, 2011, 07:50 PM
Registered User
DFflyer's Avatar
I use GForce 4s 4000's in my 55" Edge. They only cost around $40 and I like them. I also have the 3s 1500's in my 41" Edge which are still going strong after 125+ flights.
May 23, 2011, 08:25 PM
Registered User
Thanx for the fast help!
May 23, 2011, 08:27 PM
Registered User
thanks ryan for that info. Seems like the 3620 is the way to go. I decided to stay with the 4315 and later possibly get the lighted backend from ken.

Just got done moving rudder servo to the end, opposite the elevator servo. There is already a hole for the servo there. I used the same setup as the elevator linkage except I used 4-40 threaded rod and drilled out a 2-56 ball link connector for the bigger rod. I tried drilling out the included ball link but it was brittle and split. Not sure where I got my 2-56 ball link but it's white and flexible plastic. Then I drilled out the thumb screw connector for the rod. I haven't balanced the plane yet but with the rudder servo up front I needed 2.5oz of weight in the tail. I still need maybe 1.5oz in the tail, we'll see.

I used the longest dubro hd horn with thumbscrew in the farthest hole from servo. Still had to detune my atv's from 100% to 90% on both sides. I needed to be on the outermost hole otherwise the geometry starts to get whacky. One side moves more than the other, etc. Thus the need to detune atv's instead of using hole closer to the servo. You can get full rudder throw and then some on 100% atv's. The hitec analog 225mg rudder servo is great, centers very well and I like it better this way than the pull/pull as you don't have to readjust the cables based on temperature and wear. The only bad thing is that during a crash there is more weight in the tail thus more breakage due to mass of the tail. Same thing happened to my stick plane. Oh one more thing, you only need two 12" servo extensions for the elevator and rudder (if rudder is in the back) and if your rx is behind the wing tube. Here are the pics (fuzzy due to me shaking and batts running out):
May 23, 2011, 08:33 PM
Hope is not a Strategy
Lojik's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DBobz
YES got my shipping notification today.
Lucky

Rob is vinylin mine up so gonna be a few days behind you in shipping
.
.
.
.
and 1-3 weeks to get here LOL

can't wait though.
May 23, 2011, 08:33 PM
Game on
joesmith285's Avatar
Ben is definately correct in saying the 4315 is overpowered for this plane and heavier than the recommended motors.

I am very happy with my current setup in the plane which is:

Motrolfly 4315
Ice 100
4s 4000.

I like to fly the 59 a little nose heavy because of how well it tracks. This is just my preference. My battery is about an inch in front of the wing tube and the plane drops slightly while inverted. My rudder servo is in the pull pull slot under the canopy.

BEWARE that neutral and tail heavy cg's will not be attainable with the rudder servo in the normal slot and 4315 up front. Once the new mounts are in for the 4315 the situation should be better.

I am 100% satisfied with where my cg is, but this is just my preference.

Sorry for all the confusion.

Joe
May 23, 2011, 08:34 PM
Registered User
want to thank losifanatic for coming up with the whole rudder in the back setup. Also, the white ball link I got from a .30 size kalt nitro helicopter years back. It was for the throttle lever ball link setup.
May 23, 2011, 08:34 PM
Hope is not a Strategy
Lojik's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyStraight
thanks ryan for that info. Seems like the 3620 is the way to go. I decided to stay with the 4315 and later possibly get the lighted backend from ken.

Just got done moving rudder servo to the end, opposite the elevator servo. There is already a hole for the servo there. I used the same setup as the elevator linkage except I used 4-40 threaded rod and drilled out a 2-56 ball link connector for the bigger rod. I tried drilling out the included ball link but it was brittle and split. Not sure where I got my 2-56 ball link but it's white and flexible plastic. Then I drilled out the thumb screw connector for the rod. I haven't balanced the plane yet but with the rudder servo up front I needed 2.5oz of weight in the tail. I still need maybe 1.5oz in the tail, we'll see.

I used the longest dubro hd horn with thumbscrew in the farthest hole from servo. Still had to detune my atv's from 100% to 90% on both sides. I needed to be on the outermost hole otherwise the geometry starts to get whacky. One side moves more than the other, etc. Thus the need to detune atv's instead of using hole closer to the servo. You can get full rudder throw and then some on 100% atv's. The hitec analog 225mg rudder servo is great, centers very well and I like it better this way than the pull/pull as you don't have to readjust the cables based on temperature and wear. The only bad thing is that during a crash there is more weight in the tail thus more breakage due to mass of the tail. Same thing happened to my stick plane. Oh one more thing, you only need two 12" servo extensions for the elevator and rudder (if rudder is in the back) and if your rx is behind the wing tube. Here are the pics (fuzzy due to me shaking and batts running out):
Nice mod, certainly a viable option for people going outside the recommended motor sizes. Gonna be pull-pull for me though as I'm going with the lighter Hacker.
May 23, 2011, 08:36 PM
Hope is not a Strategy
Lojik's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Dflyer54
Thanx for all the fast help what brand battery to you guys find the best for performace and price for the 4s 4000?
Thanx Dean
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-4000-4s1p.html
Or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9958
Or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16489

if your on a budget, the last one is the ones I have for the model.
May 23, 2011, 08:37 PM
ExtremeFlight - 3DHS - Legacy
blucor basher's Avatar
Also - If you guys want to modify your planes, be my guest, however you should plan it out before beginning:

The fuselage sides are symmetrical. The servo opening in the fuselage on the other side is the opposite elevator servo opening. It's not a rudder servo location and is not in the right place for a rudder servo. 90% endpoint on a servo on a 3D plane is not a great idea particularly if you already have a larger motor than recommmended. We want our endpoints in the 125+ range. I someone wanted to use a servo on a 1200W plane with less than 100 endpoint to move a rudder this big, you'd spec a full-size servo...

..and now look how far we've come from a simple lightweight setup.
May 23, 2011, 08:37 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
losifanatic's Avatar
Dubro makes some really nice 2-56 ball link ends for 4-40 rod. They work really well and are super smooth!

If useing the hs5245 servo you only need to go to the second to the last hole on the longest arm(for th erudder servo in the tail) and put the EPA on 90% . The 5245s have much more throw than the hs225s
May 23, 2011, 08:39 PM
Registered User
stickybeatz's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Dflyer54
Thanx for all the fast help what brand battery to you guys find the best for performace and price for the 4s 4000?
Thanx Dean
I'm using these and they're super nice plus customer service is outstanding. They're a little more than HK batteries but they perform better and have a better US based company standing behind them. Money well spent.
May 23, 2011, 08:40 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
losifanatic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyStraight
want to thank losifanatic for coming up with the whole rudder in the back setup. Also, the white ball link I got from a .30 size kalt nitro helicopter years back. It was for the throttle lever ball link setup.
I can not take the credit for that. Forstar is the one who told me to try that out! It worked well and am very happy with my setup.
May 23, 2011, 08:43 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
losifanatic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by blucor basher
Also - If you guys want to modify your planes, be my guest, however you should plan it out before beginning:

The fuselage sides are symmetrical. The servo opening in the fuselage on the other side is the opposite elevator servo opening. It's not a rudder servo location and is not in the right place for a rudder servo. 90% endpoint on a servo on a 3D plane is not a great idea particularly if you already have a larger motor than recommmended. We want our endpoints in the 125+ range. I someone wanted to use a servo on a 1200W plane with less than 100 endpoint to move a rudder this big, you'd spec a full-size servo...

..and now look how far we've come from a simple lightweight setup.
Funny that you said that. I was telling my wife that I need to move my servo link in one more hole to get better resolution and mechanical advantage out of it.


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