I have a red one that I bought from the first batch. It took me five years to put it together. I planned to fly it on 4s and had the Motrolfly motor but the batteries puffed from not ever getting to it. All the 60" planes were by now using the six cell setup, so I put that power set in when I built it last fall. It flew with authority, but was very nose heavy. I was about to move the rudder servo to the tail. I finally decided to buy some 4s-4000 batteries and put the Motrolfly 3625-800 (that I already had) into the plane. PRESTO! 15x7 apc at 9500rpm and correct balance. Very happy airplane and love it! Now I have 6s-3300 packs that I'll need to cycle until I get one of the newer 60" planes----probably the red Extra exp.

Originally Posted by rcron

I have a red one that I bought from the first batch. It took me five years to put it together. I planned to fly it on 4s and had the Motrolfly motor but the batteries puffed from not ever getting to it. All the 60" planes were by now using the six cell setup, so I put that power set in when I built it last fall. It flew with authority, but was very nose heavy. I was about to move the rudder servo to the tail. I finally decided to buy some 4s-4000 batteries and put the Motrolfly 3625-800 (that I already had) into the plane. PRESTO! 15x7 apc at 9500rpm and correct balance. Very happy airplane and love it! Now I have 6s-3300 packs that I'll need to cycle until I get one of the newer 60" planes----probably the red Extra exp.

Ken will rewind your motrolfly motor for a low price. He has done that for me before.

I went the custom wound motrofly from ken and the lightweight 4s setup. Has just as much throttle authority as my 6s 60" birds. Always enjoy flying the slick.

Originally Posted by Shirty

I went the custom wound motrofly from ken and the lightweight 4s setup. Has just as much throttle authority as my 6s 60" birds. Always enjoy flying the slick.

Had the same setup in a 57'' 3dhs extra a few years back. Flew great. I think 4-cell kind of went the way of the dodo bird as 6-cell is a more efficient setup Higher the Voltage the lower the amperage. And I believe the 6-cell wind from ken is a higher wattage as well and swings a bigger propeller.

Well 99% built, No pics yet dad has come out to his old shop and watched a little (Parkinson's is a nasty sickness) But back to the slick. . Motrofly 3620 out of an old slick I got used from Bivens ,Savox 1250's with Extreme Fl arms Thanks Supa, Castle ice lite 75 or maybe 100? Dual 3s 2650 for power, 15x7 apc. Jeti DS 14 for new Xmitter already love it. Pics to come soon dad said something about going to see me fly it. Well post pics.

Bill

Originally Posted by Komet ME163

Well 99% built, No pics yet dad has come out to his old shop and watched a little (Parkinson's is a nasty sickness) But back to the slick. . Motrofly 3620 out of an old slick I got used from Bivens ,Savox 1250's with Extreme Fl arms Thanks Supa, Castle ice lite 75 or maybe 100? Dual 3s 2650 for power, 15x7 apc. Jeti DS 14 for new Xmitter already love it. Pics to come soon dad said something about going to see me fly it. Well post pics.

Bill

Go with the Castle ice lite 100. the 75 is dangling right on the line. Always best to give yourself some headway, and there is no major weight difference.

Originally Posted by SteveT.

Anyway, I had mine out today, but try as I might, I could not get in to a K.E. spin.

That's odd. The thing I miss most about my dear departed 59 was the way it would so easily do fast super-loud KE spins. That thing would shriek so bad it would scare people. It was really easy to get it to do it: Straight up to altitude, left rudder to arc it over, then full down elevator with no aileron input, and full throttle with full left rudder.

Never had a plane that would KE spin so well, including the Slick 580 60 I managed to wipe out last year.

I'll have to try that. I did try a couple different entry techniques, but just couldn't get it to do it. Of course, it just may have been me, as I had not flown for a few months!!

SteveT.

Test & trim flights done flys like a Slick. Jeti is sweet also.

Bill

Hey Guys... Believe it or not, finishing up a kit I had mostly build for me a long while back.. A couple questions..

1) Regarding elevator travel, the manual suggests 4". I'm wondering if my control horn is somehow glued too deep? I measure 12mm from control hole center to the underside of my elevator. The problem, my control horn bumps up against the underside of the elevator at about 3.25" of down elevator travel. No way can I get 4". However, 4" of up elevator looks doable. How critical is 4" of down elevator?

2) Regarding the rudder, for optimum control authority. The manual suggests nearly touching the aft edge of the elevator. I'm using the same servo arms and the farthest hole from center per the manual, but still a solid 5/8ths of an inch from touching the elevator at 100% EPA. How close is nearly touching and should EPA be used to achieve more throw?

3) Regarding control throw setup, all linkage is as close to 90 degree as possible and EPA is 100%, but sub-trim was necessary to find neutral even though I rotated the servo arm for optimal configuration to reduce the need for sub-trim. Is EPA adjustment the proper method for matching control throw either side of center?

Thanks guys,
Raz

Endpoints should be all the way out (130% on my radio) when setting up linkages and controls. Just bring them in a little if the servo can’t travel that far or makes weird noises. Then setup up your linkages. This will give you the full torque and range of your servos.

The EPA on most radios will go as high as 150% . I think I have mine set at about 140%. As far as the rudder goes; I had mine set to almost touch the elevator and decided that it was too much drag and roll inducing. I reduced it to about 3/4 inch from the elevator (which is still a lot of rudder), and knife edge is smoother. I also use rudder to -3% aileron mixing. When rudder is full right, the aileron is 3% left. My elevator goes up and down about 45 degrees. This plane is a terrific flyer.

Originally Posted by G.P.

Endpoints should be all the way out (130% on my radio) when setting up linkages and controls. Just bring them in a little if the servo can’t travel that far or makes weird noises. Then setup up your linkages. This will give you the full torque and range of your servos.

Can I max out my end-points before adjusting the servo arm for 90 degrees using sub-trim? On my 12X it is 150%, but I thought doing so wouldn't allow for sub-trim or trim adjust?

Correct me if I'm wrong here... So with a fresh model in my 12X, I should max endpoints to 150% (or maybe 140% to leave some room) then adjust my servo arms for 90 degree linkage using sub-trim, then adjust dual rates to match throw travel either side of neutral? This will also leave some room for minor trim adjustments in flight?

Thanks,
Raz

Rccon,

Appreciate the mention of implementing rudder to aileron. Sounds as if my rudder throw is pretty much in line with what you preferred in control feel. Have you found any other mixing helpful? How about elevator to flap?

Any suggesting mixing comments from anyone would be great, thanks..

Raz

Originally Posted by Razmo

Can I max out my end-points before adjusting the servo arm for 90 degrees using sub-trim? On my 12X it is 150%, but I thought doing so wouldn't allow for sub-trim or trim adjust?

Correct me if I'm wrong here... So with a fresh model in my 12X, I should max endpoints to 150% (or maybe 140% to leave some room) then adjust my servo arms for 90 degree linkage using sub-trim, then adjust dual rates to match throw travel either side of neutral? This will also leave some room for minor trim adjustments in flight?

Thanks,
Raz

Trim and sub-trim are both performed when the servo is essentially centered, or very close to it, so end points really have no effect on either.