There are six additional pieces of deck framing which is done with the 1/8” x 3/4” balsa batten material. Two will be fitted and glued in back of frame 7, between the shears and the 1/8” x 1/4” basswood battens. Two more will be fitted in front of frame 5, between the shears and the basswood battens, and two more will be fitted in back of frame 3, between the shears and the basswood battens. (DWG#6)

The dashboard frame work is the next to be assembled on frame #6 using the laser etched out lines for locations of the of the 1/.8” x 1/4” basswood bottom frame flush with the bottom of frame #6. The glue in the 4 pieces of the 1/4” x 1/4” balsa material are measured, cut, and glued with medium CA glue from the basswood bottom frame to the top of radius of the frame. (see drawing #2) Note: the picture of the dashboard frame work was taken later in the build of the prototype model.

At this point in the build would be a good time to assemble the boat stand provided in the kit. This will protect the hull from any dings and staring of the mahogany before and after finishing. Use the boat stand assembly drawing for assembly. (DWG#3)

From laser sheet S1, remove the engine hatch parts (EHL, EHR, EHC (2PCS), 3EH, 4EH, AND 5EH) along with the rear hatch parts (RHF, RHB, RHS (2pcs).

On a flat waxed paper surface and with the use of a square, assemble the engine hatch using the engine hatch assembly drawing. (DWG#4)

Again on a flat waxed paper surface and with the use of a square, assemble the rear hatch frame work using the assembly drawing. (DWG#5)

From laser sheet S5, remove the two engine hatch stops, 3HS, and 5HS. They will be fit in between the deck engine frames and flush with the bottom of frame 3 for 3HS, and flush with the bottom of frame 5 for 3HS.

Now take the engine hatch frame work and place it in the hatch bay opening. From balsa scrap, make small wedges and wedge the hatch in the opening with equal spacing all the way around. Once wedge in, tack glue the wedges to the hatch and the hatch frame with thin CA glue. JUST TACK GLUE enough to hold the hatch in position so it can be sanded true with the deck. It will have to be cut out later easily later in the build.

The rear hatch is wedged in position and tacked glued in the same manner as the engine hatch for sanding.

With the deck frame work finished you must now block sand the entire frame work true in preparation of the sub decking to be glued down. Once the frame work has been sanded true, cut loose the engine hatch and the rear hatch with a Xacto knife. Sand the engine and rear hatch where the wedges were tacked glued as well as the hatch frames in the hull.
Now locate the balsa sub decking for the rear hatch (I) and the engine hatch (K, 2pcs). Rear hatch sub decking (I), can be glued with medium CA glue, on to the hatch so that the front of the hatch is on the etched dotted line. This will leave the sub decking will be sticking past the hatch front 5/32”. The sides of the sub decking can be sanded smooth with the hatch. The rear of the sub decking hanging off the back of the hatch is not touched.

With the two engine hatch sub decking parts (K) will be glued with medium CA glue, on to the engine hatch frame with the center seam running down between the two hatch frame centers (HFC). After gluing both pieces of the sub decking (K) to the frame, sand the sub decking flush with the hatch frame on all four sides.

Now reinstall the engine hatch frame back into the engine bay and wedge and tack glue with thin CA glue the hatch as done before with equal spacing on both the front and back as well as the sides.

The rear hatch is left out at this time and will be reinstalled after the rest of the sub decking is glued down to the frame work.

We now proceed to glue the rest of the sub decking down to the deck frame work. We glued the sub decking down using 12 minute epoxy glue. The sub decking was glued down in the alphabetical order on the front deck starting with, A, which is on the left side of the center line of the front deck and its back edge flush with the back of frame #3, and ending with, D. Use the sub deck drawing (DWG#7) to help in the location of the decking parts.

The next two pieces to be glued are ,G, and ,H, which will have their front edges flush with the front of frame 5, and the back side edges flush with the rear hatch frames. Once glued the next piece to be fit is sub deck, J, which will be fit and glued between parts G and H and will be flush with the front of frame 5.

The last two parts to be fit and glued are E and F, which will be fit and glued between the already glued parts of the sub decking with their inside edges flush with the face of the engine hatch frame.

With all the sub decking glued in place, reinstall the rear hatch into the hull and wedge and tack glue with thin CA glue on the sides of the hatch. This completes the sub decking of the hull. The sub decking will be trimmed and block sanded true with the side sub planking and the transom sub planking. The entire sub deck will now be block sanded smooth in preparation for the mahogany covering boards and decking. 05247)

i'm lovin it.......

joe

This thread added to WOODIES: Wooden Pleasure Craft Build Logs listing.

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Wonderful work...

watchin' closely

With the sub decking sanded and trimmed true with the side planking, we now return to complete the mahogany side planking to the deck of the hull. Once all the mahogany planking has be glued in place it must be carefully trimmed and block sanded true with the deck sub planking as well as the transom sub planking.

Before continuing with the mahogany deck planking a center line must be drawn the entire length of the hull from the stem post to the transom on the sub decking for reference. This is so that the mahogany covering boards (shears) and the King Plank location lines can be drawn. Off both sides of the center line draw parallel lines 3/8” from the center line. This will be the location for the mahogany King Plank.

The rear hatch can now be cut free from its tacked glued wedges in the frame work of the hull with a Xacto knife. Block sand the sides of the hatch frame smooth as well as the hatch where it was tacked glued in place.

Measure back form the point of the stem post 1 1/4” place a mark on the center line of the hull. This will be the location of the back edge of the mahogany covering boards where they butt joint on the center line of the deck.

Remove the mahogany covering boards from laser sheet S9. The covering boards are very much over sized so they can be trimmed back after being glued in position on the hull. Line up the front of the right covering board on the center line of the deck with its back edge on the 1 1/4” mark. The covering board will run down the side of the deck and flush with side of the cockpit opening as it runs to and off the transom. Tape in position on the sub decking every 4” or so with masking tape and then mark the inside edge of the covering boards with a pencil line on the sub decking. This will give you the area to be glued when installing the covering board. (DWG#8)

Now take the left covering board and butt joint the right covering board at the bow and again position the run of the board down the side of the deck flush with the cockpit opening and to the transom. Check for a good butt joint at the bow before any gluing is attempted. If necessary block carefully block sand the butt joint until it is perfect. Again tape down the covering board every 4” to the sub decking and then mark the inside edge of the covering board with a pencil line on the sub decking.

Remove the tapes from the covering boards and glue the covering boards in position, one at a time, using the 12 minute epoxy glue. Make sure to wipe up any glue that squeezes out the inside edge of the covering board. Once the glue has set on both covering boards, remove the tapes.