Legend Model Boats 1935 Gar Wood 16' Speedster "MISS BEHAVE" - Page 11 - RC Groups
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Feb 19, 2011, 01:52 PM
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From parts package #708-13, remove the printed gage faces and the plastic (gage glass). On a flat waxed paper surface lay the printed gage faces, face up. In the center of each of the gages place a large drop of the medium CA glue, then place the plastic on top of the glue and the gages, and with your finger, press down on the center of each of the gages to spread the out the glue evenly. Let the glue dry completely before handling. Once dry cut the gages apart.
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Feb 19, 2011, 01:55 PM
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Trim the gage so that it is a perfect fit inside of the gage bezel. With the gage bezel sitting face down on a flat waxed paper surface, push the gage face down into the bezel. With medium CA glue place three or four large drops of glue on the back of the gage face to glue it to the bezel. DO NOT move or touch the bezel until the glue has dried thoroughly. The gage assembly is ready to be installed into the dash board along with the parts bags #7115 lights and bilge pump switches, #7139 key switch, and #7140 starter button.

Feb 19, 2011, 02:01 PM
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Take the adhesive backed aluminum foil from the graphics envelope and using the cutwater pattern DWG#11glued to the back of the foil, cut out the cutwater. Note that one of the legs of the pattern is larger than the other, and that will be the first side to be position on to the hull, and the bottom leg will wrap around the stem for about 1/16”. The second side will be folded on the fold line at the top and the front edge of the leg will be flush with the point of the stem. The foil will be burnished down with a rounded piece of the hard balsa scrap to smooth any wrinkles out. Once burnished, the cutwater will be polished with the polishing compound to a high luster.

Feb 19, 2011, 02:05 PM
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Using the flat black water base acrylic paint and a brush we paint the 1/4”x 1/4” balsa frame work on the frame #5 bulkhead. This paint will cover the exposed sections after the kick board and side panels are installed.

Next install the finished kick board into its slots in the frame #5 bulk head and glue in place with the medium CA glue from the back, thru the engine hatch opening. Once installed, touch up paint with a brush, the interior paint, Voyage- grey-satin acrylic paint.

Feb 19, 2011, 02:10 PM
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Next install the finished interior cockpit side panels, gluing one side at a time, with the 12 minute epoxy glue spread on the frames and the 1/4” balsa blocking at frames #6 and #7. Do not put glue on the painted blocking at frame #5. The side panel will now be slid in position thru the rear hatch opening and then the top of the panel up against the shear and pushed out against the glued frame surfaces. With both side cockpit side panels glue in position the engine gear shift handle from parts bag #7136 can be glued in the right side panel in its hole with medium CA glue.
Feb 19, 2011, 02:13 PM
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At this point of the build the running hardware and motor can be re-installed back into the hull before the hatches are attached to the hull.

Feb 19, 2011, 02:20 PM
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Time to re-install the floor board back into the hull passing them thru the rear hatch opening one at a time, then slid in position against the bulkhead frame#5, and under the kick board.
Feb 19, 2011, 02:29 PM
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Install the rudder and rudder tiller arm back into the rudder stuffing box with the tiller pointing straight forward.

Now take the servo mounting blocks and mount the servo onto the blocks. Once mounted, place the servo to the left side of the keel (looking aft toward the transom) and mark the mounting screw holes with a pencil. With a sharp pointed tool such as an ice pick, press a starter hole into the ply wood transom. Mount the servo blocking to the transom with the supplied wood screws.

Feb 19, 2011, 02:32 PM
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Using Kwik links and threaded rod (not included in kit), make a drag link from the servo arm to the rudder tiller arm and adjust for neutral on the servo with the rudder centered.
Feb 19, 2011, 02:36 PM
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Take the radio receiver and mount it to the right side of the transom with Velcro tape. Measure the length of the antenna wire on the receiver and mark it down on a piece of masking tape on the receiver. Now measure and cut a 4” pig tail of antenna wire from the receiver. Solder on a female plug of some type (DEANS) to the pig tail. Take the antenna which was build into the hull and leaving a 5” pig tail, solder on the mating half of the plug on the receiver. This will allow the receiver to be removed from the model later and still have the antenna in the boat for when the receiver is returned to the hull.

The #7300 Electronic speed control from Power Package #702CE is mounted in the engine compartment on the left side of the motor by bulkhead frame #5. The servo lead to the receiver will run thru the hole at the bottom of the frames going back to the receiver. (NOTE: a 6” servo extension may be needed to reach the receiver). The controls servo lead is plug into the throttle channel of the receiver. The battery “Y” harness will be plugged into the input side of the speed control and the two plug ends thru the holes to the battery compartments. The speed control power will be turned on and off by unplugging the “Y” harness from the speed control. (NOTE: The prototype model had its speed control mounted at the transom to allow room for a scale V-8 motor to be placed in the engine compartment when entered in competition)

The radio systems receiver battery box and switch can be mounted on the left side of the keel against the transom with Velcro behind the rear seat.

Feb 19, 2011, 02:38 PM
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The assembled dashboard can now be final fitted and glued in position with 12 minute epoxy on the angle frame work on frame #6.

Feb 19, 2011, 02:42 PM
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The painted bunting can now be measured and cut to fit the front lip of the rear hatch. Trim back the adhesive backing the 1/8” that not in contact with the hatch lip.
Feb 19, 2011, 02:57 PM
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The 3/16” wide stripping tape is used for the water line starting at the stem and going down the side of the hull, across the transom, and up the other side of the hull to the stem post. Trim the water line to the back edge of the cut water with a sharp Xacto knife. Next take the Vinyl cut water line flares and position them on top of the water line with the front of the flare just past the back of the cut water. Trim the flare with a sharp Xacto knife with the back edge of the cutwater.

Feb 19, 2011, 03:01 PM
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From the adhesive backed aluminum foil left over from the cutwater, cut two pieces of foil 3/16” wide 4 1/2” long. These will be the transom trim guards running from the deck shear to the chine, on both sides of the hull.

Next take the two 36” pieces of chrome trim and measure and cut the trim to go from the point of the stem to the corner of the transom. Before installing on to the hull trim the face of the trim at a 60 degree angle at the bow and a 45 degree angle at the transom. The trim edges can be touched up with silver paint after being installed 1/16” down from the shears on the sides of the hull.

Feb 19, 2011, 03:05 PM
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Two addition chrome trim pieces each 12” long will be used as quarter guards running from the transom forward 1/8” above the water line. Before mounting the trim pieces trim the face of the trim at a 60 degree angle at the front end and a 45 degree angle at the transom end. The trim ends can be touched up silver paint after being installed on the model.

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