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Feb 12, 2011, 02:27 PM
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Legend Model Boats 1935 Gar Wood 16' Speedster "MISS BEHAVE"

This is the entire build of the newest Legend Model Boats kit of the 1935 GAR WOOD 16’ Speedster “MISS BEHAVE” as she is on display at the Antique Boat Museum at Clayton , NY. The Kit #708 is a true scale 1/6th model, complete with M.A.C.K. Products Precision Running Hardware, allowing the modeler to build the model completely for static display, or with the optional Power Package, operational radio controlled model with the addition of radio system and batteries. The kit can be made even more realistic with the addition of the optional light package, for running lights and dash lighting.
Last edited by frankg; Feb 12, 2011 at 10:06 PM.
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Feb 12, 2011, 02:38 PM
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Prepare a building board using laminated particle board shelving 5/8” thick by 12” wide by 36” long, purchased at your local home building supply. Draw a center line down the length of the board. Using a square, draw a perpendicular line 1” in from the end of the board and then every 2” for the length of the
board. These will be your reference lines to keep the frames square to the keel.

Feb 12, 2011, 02:44 PM
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2. The keel and stempost are the first items to be assembled. Both the keel and stempost are made from two pieces (left and right side) of laser cut 3/16” thick hard balsa parts, which have to be glued together with medium CA glue, to make a 3/8” thick keel and stempost. The light plywood keel doublers (KD) (both left and right side) can also be parted from laser sheet S1 and set aside for latter assembly.
Feb 12, 2011, 02:48 PM
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Join the keel to the stem post using medium CA glue. This is done on a flat waxed paper surface to keep the keel and stem post true.
Feb 12, 2011, 02:54 PM
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Take one of the keel doublers and glue to the side of the balsa keel with 12 minute epoxy glue. Do not glue the areas to be cut out for the propeller and rudder stuffing boxes, and the motor mount cut out marked (NG). Make sure to line up the frame slots exactly.
Feb 12, 2011, 02:59 PM
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Once the keel doubler is glued to the balsa keel, take a razor saw and cut out the balsa keel were marked for the propeller and rudder stuffing boxes. Cut only the balsa keel down to the side of the keel doubler.
Feb 12, 2011, 03:05 PM
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Now place the second keel doubler in position on the balsa keel and mark were the end of the doubler comes on the balsa keel. Remove the doubler and glue the balsa keel surface with the 12 minute epoxy up to the marked end of the doubler. Reposition the keel doubler, remembering to line up the frame slots exactly, and let the glue dry. The completed boxed keel assembly will now have the locations for the rudder and propeller stuffing boxes fixed in the boxed keel.
Feb 12, 2011, 03:15 PM
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Remove from the laser cut sheets S2 and S3, all of the frames. Frames #5, 6, and 7 will have 1/4” square balsa frame work glued to their faces at the laser etched locations. Cut the pieces to the lengths shown with the laser marking and glue in place with medium CA glue.
Feb 12, 2011, 03:19 PM
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8. Take the numbered frames and slide them into their respective slots in the keel assembly and then turn the assembly upside down on the building board. All the numbers on the frames will be facing aft, or to the back of the upside down hull.

Feb 12, 2011, 03:22 PM
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Now take the shears from the laser sheet S1, and carefully slide them into their slots in the frames. Go slowly, working the shear equally into each of the slots a little at a time. Once the shears are fit into the frames and the stempost, glue the shears to the stempost and the transom only with medium CA glue. (pic04959)

Feb 12, 2011, 03:27 PM
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Lineup the center of the stem post with the center line on the building board and the front of the stem post butting the 1” perpendicular line. Tack glue the stem post to the building board with medium CA glue.

Feb 12, 2011, 03:30 PM
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At the transom, line up the center line of the transom with the center line on the building board. Tack glue the transom feet down to the building board with the medium CA glue.

Feb 12, 2011, 03:34 PM
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Now, making sure that the frame feet are the same distance off the center line and down against the building board, tack glue the frame feet down to the building board with medium CA glue. Proceed with gluing the rest of the frame feet down to the building board with the medium CA glue. Once all the frame feet are glued to the building board, finish gluing all the frames to the shears with the medium CA glue.

The chines are made up using two 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” basswood battens laminated on each side. They will have to be let into the stempost notch deep enough to accommodate the two battens which make up the chine. We used two pieces of the batten material as a gage to adjust for the depth of the chine notch in the stem post.
Last edited by frankg; Feb 13, 2011 at 11:22 PM.
Feb 12, 2011, 03:42 PM
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Once the correct depth of notch was reached, we fitted one of the battens to be marked for the angle cut needed for the butt joint to the opposite side chine batten.

Feb 12, 2011, 03:51 PM
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With the batten angle cut at the stem post, proceed to glue the first chine batten in, starting at the stem post, and working back toward the transom gluing the batten at each frame as you go. Now take the opposite side chine batten and angle cut it for the butt joint at the stem post. Once fit glue it in as was done with the first batten with medium CA glue starting at the stem post and working back to the transom.

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