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Feb 09, 2011, 11:31 AM
JollyRogerF4U's Avatar
Originally Posted by dz1sfb
JollyRogerF4U combated quite effectively with his Oshkosh Special against the heavy iron.

1 day Ace!
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Feb 09, 2011, 11:34 AM
Out the Window
High Flyin''s Avatar
I built one of GPWs Simple Fokker and it flys great! You might use his design as a starting point as it is proven by a lot of builds.

The WWI airplanes do have very short noses and tend to be tail heavy. I extended the nose on the Simple Fokker plans so I would not have to add any additional weight to the nose to get it to balance. Not scale???, but a profile is not really scale to start with. I just ended up calling mine a "Fokker de Bergerac" to account for the extended nose! Mine has a Blue Wonder 1300 made out of PBIII.

Here is a video of my "Fokker de Bergerac":
(3 min 37 sec)

Excuse the beginner was my first aileron airplane. Not the best looking aircraft, but flys great.

If you make some WWI aircraft that fly and look as good as some of the WWII aircraft they will be winners!

Feb 09, 2011, 12:50 PM
'scuse me while I kiss the sky
Lafayette's Avatar


My name and Avatar will give you a hint!!!
Last edited by Lafayette; Feb 09, 2011 at 12:56 PM.
Feb 09, 2011, 02:21 PM
JollyRogerF4U's Avatar
Originally Posted by Lafayette
My name and Avatar will give you a hint!!!
This is my favorite as well.
Feb 09, 2011, 02:35 PM
Ken's CAD Models
dz1sfb's Avatar
Thread OP
Whats amazing to me is that they used to control the throttle by interrupting the ignition circuit. Otherwise it was WOT full time. At least with the rotary engines. Anybody know who or what was the first throttled airplane?

Feb 09, 2011, 02:36 PM
Registered User
kdahlhaus's Avatar
I just had to add this for 'protect the bomber' scenarios.....

Just kidding, I know it's quite outside the design envelope you're considering.

('Rate this thread' worked as described under advanced posting. It just failed during a normal view using the drop down near the top.)
Feb 09, 2011, 02:56 PM
Registered User
Looking forward to what you guys produce, I love WWI bi-planes.

RET would be easier to fly/build.

Would a DH2 be doable?
Feb 09, 2011, 04:00 PM
Pronounced "High Duck"
haiduk's Avatar
I think I've narrowed down a couple lay outs that will get the CoG close. On some of the shorter nosed planes we have little choice but move the battery to a side installation under the motor or add dead weight there.

Seems the general consensus is to use a pair of HXT900 servos for RET configuration. I prefer the Dynam 7g servos as they're not only lighter, but narrower. They can be set into the fuselage side to side and still have room to cover them nicely on the outside. Can keep the gear weight further forward that way. The HXT900's will still sit side to side and have room to cover them if the covers are thinned a bit, use a different material for the covers, or simply tape over them.

For some of the shorter nosed planes. I may have to go with the battery under the chin with the servos side to side, just to get close to the CoG.

I've got my pops refining an SE5 design for the VLF fuselage, 250sqin wing, and the KFm1 airfoil. I asked him to add provision for testing. Start with the flat wing, but lets draw up the KF panels so we can tape them on for flight testing. We should have a flying model for airfoil testing this evening. I'm still working on the SPAD XIII.

EDIT: I ended up redesigning the SE5.


Take a look at these layouts:
Last edited by haiduk; Feb 10, 2011 at 04:07 AM.
Feb 09, 2011, 04:11 PM
Registered User
foxy29's Avatar
nice one cant wait,love ww1 bipes.
Feb 09, 2011, 04:39 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Your #3 picture looks like the best layout for gear shifted forward. I'd still cheat on the nose length a bit.

I also think the 9g servos are fine, but I'm sure you will find many use what they have, or in your case use the 7g servos. The plan may need the 9g cutouts, but I cut mine to the servo on install anyway so that they press in snug.

Good luck on your testing.

Feb 09, 2011, 05:06 PM
Registered User
gpw did a Simple Nieuport 28, link here

Best regards,
Bill Segraves
Feb 09, 2011, 06:08 PM
Pronounced "High Duck"
haiduk's Avatar
I've been focusing on getting a plane ready to be tested. I shifted gears to the SE5a airframe for this purpose. It has a naturally longer nose and dihedral on the wings. Have the fuselage and wings laid out. Still working on the wing strut alignment jigging. Should have plans ready to post later this evening. I've got my pops cutting some KF's to test on one of his foamy bipes.


EDIT: Did the tests today. The 40% underwing KF is amazing on these little bipes. It made a dramatic difference in stability. Almost completely got rid of the issues we were having with adverse yaw that he was having on his little DVII. It was a bit slower over all (more drag), but handled much better at slower speeds.
Last edited by haiduk; Feb 10, 2011 at 01:10 AM.
Feb 10, 2011, 12:02 AM
SG Talon... Super Genius.

Decided to design one...

Just put a few hours into a Albatros DV
Feb 10, 2011, 12:16 AM
Pronounced "High Duck"
haiduk's Avatar

SE5a Plans

This airframe has now been proven airworthy. It does fly quite well.

Wing Area is
Wing Span is 27.5 inches. It's still a "small" bird. Fits on a single sheet of the PBIII FFF, but just barely.
Motor: Blue Wonder 1700kv, Turnigy equivalent, or this one from HeadsUpRc.
ESC: 10-12 amp
BATTERY: 2s 800-1000mah lipo
PROP: 8x4e APC or similar (APC 8x3.7SF prop in the video)

VLF SE5a maiden (1 min 19 sec)

The build is pretty straightforward and is mostly like how you would go about building Ken's WWII designs with a few exceptions.

Overview of the build:
1) Laminate the fuselage normally.
2) Horizontal Stab slides in from the rear (with rudder removed).
3) Set the dihedral of each wing part to 6 degrees each. With one end flat on your workbench, the high end should be 2.75" at the tip. I don't think a spar is needed with the KF. Maybe strapping tape, tip to tip as normal.
4) I included a pair of wing alignment jigs. After the lower wing is glued to the fuselage, you can use the jigs to set the alignment of the upper wing. Set the jigs just inside the strut reinforcement tabs and use some #64 rubber bands to hold the wings and jigs in place while gluing the struts. Struts are cut from 10" bamboo skewers. I've used skewers for struts, quite strong. No flying wires needed, but you can add them if you like.
5) Sand a nice bevel into the top leading edge of both wings. Bevel back a good half inch or so. Then round the leading edge over. Much like the sanding/shaping needed on the leading edge with Ken's WWII designs.
6) Landing gear is bent from 1/16" music wire and is rubber banded on. If you have ever built a Stevens Aeromodel Shaft, it's the same type of set up.
7) I've used the steerable tail skid on these small planes, it's quite effective. Especially in grass. The full size SE5a used a steerable skid too.

Pictorial Build:
Phase One
Phase Two
Phase Three
Phase Four

If you don't want to cut this one out by hand, I can CnC cut this plane in the white Dollar Tree foam, and Ken can cut the PBIII FFF. Send a private message to me (haiduk) or Ken (dz1fsb) for ordering information.

Last edited by haiduk; Feb 25, 2011 at 01:30 AM.
Feb 10, 2011, 12:24 AM
Registered User
gjalbert's Avatar
Originally Posted by Freddie B
Sopwith Pup is a sure candidate in my book. Looks great, and flys great. Some research would show it was quite a force to be recconed with in it's time. I'd take one into battle anyday, agaist any opponent!


My vote goes to the pup, too. One of my favorites.

This thread is going to get big in a hurry, I think.

Last edited by gjalbert; Feb 10, 2011 at 12:46 AM.

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