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Feb 06, 2011, 08:23 PM
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V200D01 flies like a co-axial!

I'm no expert! In fact, I'm relatively new to this sport. But, a lot of people have asked me how I got my V200D01 to fly like a coaxial. There may be better ways to do it, but here is what I tell people when they ask. (video demo below post #4)

Getting this bird “tamed” is a three-part process with several steps each. If you are experienced, you probably already know how to do most all of this. However, I’ve written the instructions assuming that people want to know everything. I don’t mean to imply that anyone doesn't already know the following.

Before we start, make sure you have done the following “standard” balance procedures.

PART ONE- BALANCE PROCEDURES: mandatory for all RC helicopters.

1. find each rotor blade’s CG (Center of Gravity) and balance each blade to the other.
2. balance the entire rotor head with blades the attached.
3. adjust blade-tracking*
3. balance the heli’s CG

If you need help with the above, visit for all the instructions. It is under “Flight School” on the menu, go to “Day One”. It’s free!

Note* The V200D01 has tiny 1.5mm e-clips on the feathering shaft that runs through the rotor-head. The blade-grips attach to the feathering shaft. If one of these e-clips is missing, you cannot adjust tracking or get the heli to fly stable.

PART TWO- LEVELING PROCEDURE: getting a V200D01 to fly like a co-axial..

Step One- Mechanical:
1. Get into a Hover.
2. Watch what it does.
3. Land.
4. Adjust appropriate linkage.
5. Repeat steps 1-5

Power-on and turn all Cyclic Trims to 50% then power-off. You won’t need Trim anymore! Most of us never use it. We will concenrate on the swashplate level during flight.

Here is an example of what we will be doing next. Procedure: Get into a 10ft hover and see which way the heli wants to drift on its own, Forward or Backwards. To correct, land the heli and adjust the Elevator Servo-to-swash linkage (the servo on the left that points backwards). Adjust the linkage-rod-ends, one turn at a time, until the drift is eliminated. If the heli went backwards on its own, lengthen the rod. If it went forward on its own, shorten it. Continue doing “test hovers” to check the results. When you get close, start making 1/2 turns, 1/4 turns, or 1/8 turns on the linkage-rod-ends until you've acheived the correction. Repeat these steps until your heli is dialed-in. Once your done, twist the ends in opposite directions to eliminate any “slop” in the linkages.

Now that you know how to adjust the linkages, as shown above, do the same process for the other servos linkages. Here is the order that I followed to set up mine.

1. Rudder: If you learned to fly 'tail-in' this will help you to not get disoriented. It's no fun when your heli starts pointing sideways while you are busy trying to keep it level. If the nose points relatively straight-ahead now, skip this step.
2. Forward/Backward: It's also not fun when your heli wants to fly away while you are busy keeping it level. Adjust the Elevator servo to swashplate linkage (in the center just behind the main mast).
3. Banking Right/Left: Now that your heli won't fly away from you and the nose stays pointed straight ahead, its time to adjust sideways drift. Adjust the Aileron servo to swashplate linkage (on the right side of the mast). Shorten if it drifts left, lengthen if it drifts right.

NOTE: My heli does not drift to the left when running it hands-free. That is my personal preference. However, it SHOULD drift left because of its large tail rotor and clockwise rotation of the main rotor. Since I have levelled the swash to eliminate left-drifting, I get a little bit of "Toilet Bowl Effect", but not enough to worry about it. In forward flight, it doesn't matter. The bottom Line is that it is a trade-off. I'd rather have a little TBE and no left-drift. If you prefer a little left-drift and no TBE, that's OKAY because it is aeronautically correct for the V200D01. See post #28


We use this procedure because the WK2403 TX is not a “computerized” transmitter/receiver. Computerized systems allow you to adjust the Extend (Servo Travel) adjustments through your radio transmitter. However, Gyro settings are still done on the receiver on most models.

1. Adjust Servo Extends
2. Adjust Gyro Sensitivity

The Servo Extend adjustments are what really calms the heli because they reduce the amount of travel that the servos can move. I never had Rudder problems, so mine is still set near the factory settings. However, the Ail/Elev travel needs to be reduced. The Servo-Extend dials (pots) are located on top of the receiver along the left side, assuming you are looking at it from the tail-end of the heli. Look for the one labelled AIL/ELEV. Turning the pot clockwise allows more travel (wild), counter-clockwise reduces travel (tame). Start at 50% and reduce the travel until the heli responds more gracefully.

The Gyro Sensitivity are the three pots along the top edge of the Receiver. When adjusting, make small 10% adjustments. Leave the Rudder gyro Sensitivity set at 50%. If the heli “wobbles” when flying sideways, turn the Aileron gyro sensitivity clockwise until it stops wobbling. If it gets worse, turn it counterclockwise. If the heli “Bobbles” (like a bucking horse) when flying forward or backward, adjust the Elev Gyro pot until it stops. Every heli is different! You cannot look at someone elses V200D01 and set yours to be the same as theirs.

Another tip.. The sticks on your transmitter are adjustable. Leave the left-stick short. Unscrew the top of the RIGHT stick about inch, then screw the bottom half up to it until it is snug. By lengthening the right-stick, the Cyclic control isn’t as sensitive.

One note of extreme importance (one year later): As you begin to have success hovering, flying foward, and simple circuits, begin increasing the agility of the helicopter. As your skills build, the heli will be able to respond to you smoothly, rather than you responding to it. It's important to increase agility as you go. Otherwise, you'll be stuck at a beginner level for a long time because the heli cannot grow with you. At first, you need the heli tamed way down. Later, you'll want it more and more agile.

After you get this heli dialed-in, you will be AMAZED at what it can do! I can take-off from the pad into a hover without touching the right-stick. I can do a full speed fly-by one-inch off the ground. It is so stable, I know exactly what it will do.

***THERE ARE MANY MORE TIPS/PHOTOS/VIDEO THROUGHOUT THIS BLOG*** If any of it is useful, feel free to comment!

I hope this helps!

Last edited by HeliGriff; Nov 01, 2012 at 03:23 PM. Reason: added comment, corrections
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Apr 28, 2011, 09:22 AM
my mental eXcape!
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Tracking tip

TRACKING TIP: there are some videos on YouTube showing how to adjust blade tracking on a FP heli. One of the videos tells you to "shim" the blades, using pieces of tape, at the root of the blade. This is wrong! Instead, adjust the pitch linkages; that's why they are threaded.

Big Adjustments:

1. Start by turning the rotors long-ways (nose to tail). Lay a small rod across the blade grip (as shown in the photo in Post #1). Adjust both pitch-linkages (swash to blade rocker linkages) so that the rod is level.

2. Spool-up and check the tracking. SHORTENING the link (leading edge link) for the blade that is TOO HIGH. Alternate each time that you change tracking! Next time, LENGTHEN the link of the LOW blade. By alternating, you won't get the blade holders into a bind over time. Adjust the linkages to get the tracking close. Then, move onto micro adjustments.


3. For the LOW blade- Hold the link at the bottom (at swash). Twist it "left" and hold it in that position. Now PUSH the upper-end (elbow) inward toward the head, which actually unscrews the upper-link a tiny bit. The link will be in a twist, but that's okay.

4. Go to the HIGH blade. Hold that link at the bottom (at swash) and twist it to the "right". Now, PULL the upper-end (elbow) out toward you; which actually shortens the linkage a little.

NOTE: If you are correcting drifting problems (PART TWO: LEVELING) you'll probably need to re-adjust the blade tracking! Adjusting the servo-to-swash linkages changes the swash level, thus changes the pitch-linkages, thus changes the blade-tracking.
Last edited by HeliGriff; Jun 24, 2011 at 10:19 PM. Reason: updated
Apr 28, 2011, 02:03 PM
Great work thanks
Apr 28, 2011, 06:57 PM
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okay..okay.. you wanna see hands off.

V200D01 HeliGriff (0 min 19 sec)

Whatta showoff! LOL!
Last edited by HeliGriff; Apr 29, 2011 at 11:06 AM.
Apr 28, 2011, 08:49 PM
my mental eXcape!
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Gentle V200D01

Once you get the V200D01 tamed down, you can practice your precision flying with much more ease! You may want to have Dual Rate 'on' when flying indoors. Outside, you may want Dual Rates 'off' for doing banking turns in large circuits.

halfcircuit (0 min 28 sec)
Last edited by HeliGriff; Apr 28, 2011 at 09:03 PM.
Apr 28, 2011, 09:43 PM
That think handles like a 3ch coaxial lol
Apr 28, 2011, 10:21 PM
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Here's a quick tip on e-clips! If you lose one of the e-clips from the feathering shaft, the TWO replacement clips are packaged along with another feathering shaft and two dampers. Before long, you'll have a dozen extra shalves and a dozen extra dampers.

Instead, Traxxas race cars use the same e-clip. You can get 24 of them for under $2 at

I buy everything that I can from WowHobbies. But, I didn't see this size on their website.
Apr 28, 2011, 10:37 PM
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Lubricants and locktite

TIP: Another blogger suggested that I try Tri-Flow Teflon lubricant. Wow does this stuff work. Use it on metal to metal shafts and bearings. The video shows how freely my V200D01's parts move. Notice how long the rotors turn after I power down.

Lubricated2 (0 min 15 sec)

NOTE: Don't use TriFlow on the white tail gears because it will make the tail gears slip on the drive-shaft.

It's difficult to get to the lower main-Shaft bearing, but the TriFlow nozzle tube is small enough to get between the Main gear and the upper frame.
Apr 28, 2011, 10:56 PM
Awesome tips thanks.
Apr 29, 2011, 07:19 AM
my mental eXcape!
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TIPS on Tail Failure:

I just recently learned to use Locktite Blue on all "metal to metal" bolts, pins, and screws. Another Heli pal told me to locktite everything before you fly a new heli the first time. He was right!

This is what happens when a screw backs-out of the tail blade holder...

Crashendg2 (0 min 5 sec)

The tail blade and grip came off the hub and hit the main rotors. After new set of blades and a new hub, we were back in the air!
Last edited by HeliGriff; May 21, 2011 at 07:20 PM. Reason: added comment
Apr 29, 2011, 07:32 AM
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Maybe too much like a Coaxial :)

Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
That think handles like a 3ch coaxial lol
When flying inside, it's really tamed-down and I'm running Dual Rate. Those boats are worth about a half-million dollars each (no, they're not mine!). When I go outside, I turn off the dual rate. If its breezy, I'll increase the Servo Extends a little for doing circuits.
Last edited by HeliGriff; Apr 29, 2011 at 09:46 AM.
Apr 30, 2011, 01:58 AM
I bet those boats are expensive maybe after I master rc heli I'll buy a rc boat lol
May 01, 2011, 12:12 PM
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G-R-E-A-T morning of outdoor flying, FINALLY!!! Got to do some circuits, circles, and a little nose-in hover before the wind really picked up! Best of all, I brought it back in one piece!
Last edited by HeliGriff; May 01, 2011 at 12:43 PM.
May 01, 2011, 07:35 PM
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I finally got my classima 300 trimmed right and had her airborne for quite a while today.

winds did pick up later though and it was a tough go to fight them.

Brought her in close and was practicing low hovers and low circuits.

good day to fly.
May 01, 2011, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dwholler
I finally got my classima 300 trimmed right and had her airborne for quite a while today.

winds did pick up later though and it was a tough go to fight them.

Brought her in close and was practicing low hovers and low circuits.

good day to fly.
Every day that we get to fly is a great day!

Classima 300 is a very nice FP! Thanks for stopping by and post anytime!

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