Blade 450 3d - Page 52 - RC Groups
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Jan 29, 2012, 11:22 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by FuntanaS
Where are you planning on buying it? Ampdraw.com has the best price.

For spare parts I would say; blades, flybar, feathering shaft, tail boom, main gear, and main shaft.

I would suggest the Gens Ace 2200mah 25C battery from Hobbypartz.com It is on sale right now and is highly rated over on helifreak.com
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-2200-3s1p.html

Also instead of spending $14 on the stock wood blades I would recommend going with the fiber glass blades also from hobbypartz. They are only $3 and they shatter when you crash instead of transferring the energy to the head.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-pro-3252.html
Is the price really better? How much is shipping. Horizon Hobby has free shipping on everything over $100.
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Jan 30, 2012, 12:01 AM
Registered User
Didgeridood's Avatar
So after another crash with my 450 I am in need of some help. I was thinking about converting it to FBL with a tarot head or align head. Which would be a fun project but now I am just irritated with myself because I cant figure this out. I have watched how to's and watched the blade videos many times. I have +12 pitch and -5 pitch O_O I cant seem to get it right... I would really like if someone could help me out in getting my heli back to normal. Perhaps over skype or something


Steve
Jan 30, 2012, 12:33 PM
#who gives a rats a**?
feefo's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasC
I can definitely vouch for that statement. I stuggled to get good solder connections when I had a cheapo 15 watt soldering iron. I couldn't understand why the covering on my wires would melt but the solder wouldn't. Turns out I was having to hold the iron on the wire/connector too long to heat it and heat was transferred throughout the wire melting the sheathing.
As soon as I got a Weller 40 watt soldering station, it only takes a second or two to tin my wires and solder my connectors. What a difference a good soldering iron makes.


You also have to watch the battery leads, the Turnigy brand have a coating on the higher C rated batteries (sorry I can't remember the name of the coating...zinc maybe?) which makes it difficult for the solder to take no matter how much flux I used. In the end I was advised to gently file (I actually used a Dremel bit) to lightly scuff the wires up before I tried again, which solved the problem.
Jan 30, 2012, 01:31 PM
Newb
Manzooka's Avatar
Just had my first set of real outdoor flights on my 450 with the exception of a hover experiment several days ago. I burned through six batteries and had a blast! I took some videos so I'll post those a little later when I get them uploaded.

One big question though... and keep in mind that I'm very much a heli newb . Every time I begin a new flight my rudder seems really out of trim and it takes some effort to get it readjusted. It was always a little different too, never the same adjustment needed and even direction of adjustment could be different between flights. Am I missing something simple here? I'm using a JR X9503 btw.

I'm also still getting a little tail wag and trying to figure that one out.
Jan 30, 2012, 06:24 PM
Newb
Manzooka's Avatar
Just went out for a second round of flights and it was pretty much the same experience... a minute to or two to get the rudder trim adjusted and then relatively smooth flight with a little tail wag. But on my final flight the tail of my 450 was severely jerking left and right to the point that I almost crashed.
Jan 30, 2012, 07:10 PM
Registered User
Didgeridood's Avatar
I had to play with my gyro gain a tad to get the wag to stop.
Jan 30, 2012, 11:53 PM
Registered User
@Manzooka Is there a big temperature difference from when you take your heli out of the house and the area you fly at? My Blade SR flew great the other morning as I set it outside on the porch to let it acclimate and the tail held; but later in the day if I went straight to the park, the tail would just slightly drift. It was about 40 degrees outside, so a difference of 30 degrees may have been pretty significant.
Jan 31, 2012, 06:37 AM
Newb
Manzooka's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtManny
@Manzooka Is there a big temperature difference from when you take your heli out of the house and the area you fly at?
Thanks for the suggestion Manny, but I don't think that's the problem. I keep my heli's in my garage and it stays pretty close to outdoor temps this time of year. Besides, we're not talking about a "little" drift. Whenever I first get my heli in the air on a new battery it will make a complete rotation on its own within 2-3 secs without input.

I've just read a little something about gyros not liking rudder trim and about how I'll be better off trying to adjust for this behavior mechanically. I suppose I'll work on that this evening unless anyone else has a recommendation.
Jan 31, 2012, 10:00 PM
Newb
Manzooka's Avatar
I spent the afternoon fooling around with the gyro, tail servo, and tail assembly and regardless what I did I still got pretty much the same results... constant (and usually rapid) tail drift. I saw someone mention that vibration could be causing the problem so I starting pursuing that possibility.

I tried taking off the blades (but left the flybar and paddles on) and spooled the heli up safely in my hands and there is vibration a plenty! I also noticed that the head assembly looked a wee bit wobbly. Could this be the result of the blades being off or I have a I narrowed down the likely cause of my problem to an issue with the head assembly?

I haven't crashed and nothing *looks* bent, not that that means anything .
Feb 01, 2012, 05:02 PM
Newb
Manzooka's Avatar
Here's a vid showing off the issue. It's in three short sections. First is just spool up behavior, second shows the tail drift issue during hover, third shows relatively smooth forward flight after adjusting with rudder trim.

Stock Blade 450 3d ... tail drift? (1 min 34 sec)
Feb 01, 2012, 07:56 PM
Fly low or fly home.
skarface's Avatar
ok my dad cant fly his b 450 3d to much for him so now he should get the blade 300?
Feb 01, 2012, 08:31 PM
Registered Flyer
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasC
Is the price really better? How much is shipping. Horizon Hobby has free shipping on everything over $100.
Shipping was $7.99 and the Blade 450 BNF was $247.99 so it came out to be $256. Almost $50 cheaper.
Feb 02, 2012, 01:44 PM
#who gives a rats a**?
feefo's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoned doggie
ok my dad cant fly his b 450 3d to much for him so now he should get the blade 300?
I can't see it being any easier, it's just smaller, which can mean it's actually harder. Sim practise did it for me, I don't really like using the sim but I wouldn't have learnt to hover otherwise.
Feb 02, 2012, 02:50 PM
Fly low or fly home.
skarface's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by feefo
I can't see it being any easier, it's just smaller, which can mean it's actually harder. Sim practise did it for me, I don't really like using the sim but I wouldn't have learnt to hover otherwise.
ok thanks i tried getting him on the sim at the hobby store and he just looked at it as a game and said no lets go. i will have to tell him about your post because he would get 1 foot above the ground be drifting everywhere then one of the training gear would get caught and he would flip.
Feb 02, 2012, 03:07 PM
Registered User
rpstar's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoned doggie
ok thanks i tried getting him on the sim at the hobby store and he just looked at it as a game and said no lets go. i will have to tell him about your post because he would get 1 foot above the ground be drifting everywhere then one of the training gear would get caught and he would flip.
Get a Blade 120SR or something similar. You could get the mcpx but it's going to be even harder than the 450 but it does take abuse. I have both the mcpx and the 120sr and the 120SR is a good entry point if you ask me. I've bounced mine of tables, lamps, chairs, stair railings, and it keeps coming back for more. Of course I've had to replace blades and such but they are cheap.


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