Finished soldering the main brain up today, running the wm+ and the bma020 acc, linked it up and downloaded 1.8patch. 2. GUI looks good, lower cycle time than with the nunchuck connected. hex chassis is nearly finished, just got 2 esc's to wire up and i should be good to go.



Whats the best option to power the board? i see the board can accept 3s lipo in, what difference if any would this make to say using a bec to provide the power?

thanks for your help and thanks for this amazing hardware paul

Aiden
(sheffield, UK)

Originally Posted by mgros

I present you a new evolution of my Mini Quad

I'm flying MultiWii 1.8P2 version but I've added control for the arms LEDs.
LED sequence is programmable, I'm thinking to program different sequence according to the type of flight. (stable, acro) or battery alarms.

The code that controls the lights is copied from an idea I saw in Megapirates and does not affect the control of the flight. Furthermore, it is quite elegant.

Enjoy it!

Enjoyed it!
Nice mini you have there, Mariano.

You know- I never was a friend of those flying disco balls.
But if they could be taken for something useful (other than orientation and night flights), i.e. to display flight and failsafe status - I'm in.

So ... where's the code and the connection diagram?

Originally Posted by kinderkram

Enjoyed it!
Nice mini you have there, Mariano.

You know- I never was a friend of those flying disco balls.
But if they could be taken for something useful (other than orientation and night flights), i.e. to display flight and failsafe status - I'm in.

So ... where's the code and the connection diagram?

Let me clean code and prepare some documentation.

Nice vid, Mariano!
I'm interested by the same functions as Norbert, so I'm also waiting on your code and documentation! Thanks for sharing!

Bastien

Electronic Noob Question warning:

I've tried to get the led driver working on the flydusense V2, and it seems to respond to the buzzer pin (32) when using a ordinary led.

It dimms a little blinking, but it does not turn off. (I got the powermeter code activated in 1.8). Not sure what to expect.

I've tried to use a led strip (2x3 leds long), but that does nothing. It works fine when connected directly to 12V. It's that led strip from HK I still had lying around, with the resistor every 3 leds. Looks identical to the one on Paul's website. Direct power from the Lipo is connected to the voltage divider input, and that works correctly in the GUI.

What is this led driver (the BC337) capable of driving ?. It seems, people use the same kind of led strips, but I can not find any direct reference that they use this kind of strip, with the standard Flydusense V2 led driver...

Am I correct in assuming it takes the 12 V from the voltage divider input, and switches it by the BC337, directly to the LED output.. ?

I did the modification of the Flydusense V2 shown on paul's website, cutting the trace a 2 places, and putting a jumper to the '-' side (it IS the minus, correct ?). http://i.imgur.com/X1B6S.jpg

I have uploaded code to my Flyduino fine a few times, I have tried again and I keep getting this error:

avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0s
x51

is my board knackered?

Cheers

ice.

[edit]
No - I had the wrong board selected in the 'boards' - school boy error!

Yes, it simply switched the 12V or what you have on your Lipo through, nothing more.
The BC337 should handle 500mA, but i would stay a little lower.

Originally Posted by wilco1967

Electronic Noob Question warning:

I've tried to get the led driver working on the flydusense V2, and it seems to respond to the buzzer pin (32) when using a ordinary led.

It dimms a little blinking, but it does not turn off. (I got the powermeter code activated in 1.8). Not sure what to expect.

I've tried to use a led strip (2x3 leds long), but that does nothing. It works fine when connected directly to 12V. It's that led strip from HK I still had lying around, with the resistor every 3 leds. Looks identical to the one on Paul's website. Direct power from the Lipo is connected to the voltage divider input, and that works correctly in the GUI.

What is this led driver (the BC337) capable of driving ?. It seems, people use the same kind of led strips, but I can not find any direct reference that they use this kind of strip, with the standard Flydusense V2 led driver...

Am I correct in assuming it takes the 12 V from the voltage divider input, and switches it by the BC337, directly to the LED output.. ?

I did the modification of the Flydusense V2 shown on paul's website, cutting the trace a 2 places, and putting a jumper to the '-' side (it IS the minus, correct ?). http://i.imgur.com/X1B6S.jpg

Paul has stocked some of the T-Motor ESCs (HobbyWing compatible)



I've ordered a set for my new quad and will test them with the T-Motor MT2216 900kV



Will report later...

Originally Posted by Goofy23

Yes, it simply switched the 12V or what you have on your Lipo through, nothing more.
The BC337 should handle 500mA, but i would stay a little lower.

Thats what I thought as well...
It works fine with an ordinary led , but only gives approx 2,5 Volt across the led (powered from a 3S lipo). It starts blinking when the powermeter kicks in, so that parts seems ok

A 6 led strip pulls only 36 mA, but it needs 12 V. It stays dark when connected..... Is my led driver faulty perhaps ...

Can send you a replacment no problem.
One tihng i encountered regarding the ESC, the 10A are Black Mantis.
I mean not bad Rosewhite uses them all the time, and he really likes them.
Only thing programming procedure is different to the HW.
But we allready found a manual.

Paul, does the manual I sent you match the 10A ESCs? If so, the software will also be identical with Black Mantis.

Hehe, I really wonder how many amps these ESCs really can do. Black Mantis sells one and the same ESC as 8A and 12A. The only difference is in the label. Now Tiger sells them as 10A...

Maybe I should try them with the MT2216 on 5 minutes full speed to find out if they get fried.

Hi all , now First Batch is made. For Flydu Spyder Frame.

Info : rchelihalleberlin@freenet.de





Mike

Originally Posted by r0sewhite

Paul, does the manual I sent you match the 10A ESCs? If so, the software will also be identical with Black Mantis.

Hehe, I really wonder how many amps these ESCs really can do. Black Mantis sells one and the same ESC as 8A and 12A. The only difference is in the label. Now Tiger sells them as 10A...

Maybe I should try them with the MT2216 on 5 minutes full speed to find out if they get fried.

Yes it matches exactly your manual you send as PDF, they are working great.
Here is the PDF.
http://imgur.com/rEZ3G

Originally Posted by Rc Heli Halle

Hi all , now First Batch is made. For Flydu Spyder Frame.

Info : rchelihalleberlin@freenet.de





Mike

Hmmm ... I thought you wanted to send me one for testing before you do a batch?
As I told you it looks like the front is too high. Anyway - I want one. Will contact you.

Originally Posted by Rc Heli Halle

Hi all , now First Batch is made. For Flydu Spyder Frame.

Info : rchelihalleberlin@freenet.de





Mike

Are these images of pre-production test pieces ?

And were they commercially produced by a company specializing in vac forming ?