I've been flying the Chrysalis 2M for a while now with the motorized fuse and I have to say that I'm nothing less than thrilled with it. I've had several flights of well over 15 minutes and a couple bumping up against 20. If I were a bit more brave (foolish?) I would stay in the boomers I've found longer and get the model even higher.

I have two sunburst type stripes on the bottom of the wing to aid in visibility against clouds but honestly the white wings are what I see against the skies around Dallas. The red often gets lost against the dark blue sky. This still comes down to "follow the guidelines but do what works best for you". As I gain more experience and learn more about how my eyes and brain work as an individual I will adjust my color schemes to maximize visibility. Many times I've been asked by powered flight guys where my sailplane is and they've not been able to see it. Perhaps vision is part of what separates sailplane pilots from our powered brethren.

I have been struggling in getting the spoilers working as intended on the plans. I could never seem to get the bends in the safety wire pushrod tight enough and they always worked themselves out of the control horns. I think I will end up fabricating a different mechanism. If I were building the wing again I might be more inclined to build a platform for the servos and just push the spoilers up with the control horn. They would require some sort of positive closure of course. Most likely that would be some sort of elastic mechanism. When I added spoilers to my Sophisticated Lady I had plenty of wing to work with. The Chrysalis wing is significantly thinner so care must be taken when fabricating the spoiler mechanism.

I posted a step-by-step in one of the Chrysalis build threads on how to bend the wire pushrods. The wire is soft 304 stainless steel, so it allows some things that would be difficlt with music wire.

The tutorial is here:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1180

Make the z-bends in both ends of the wire, then bend the kink in the middle that you can straighten or tighten to adjust for proper closing. Bend the ends of the Z-bends parallel to each other so you can slip them into the servo and spoiler horn. If your Z-bends are tight enough, they will stay in position fine just like that. However, if you want some extra insurance, after the pushrod is in place you can twist the ends of the Z-bends so they are no longer aligned, which will lock the pushrod in place so it can't come out.

The other option that a lot of folks have done, and which we might put in the kit in a future ugrade, is to use a long servo arm to push the spoiler open. Use one of those tiny (1/8") but super-strong neodymium magnets gluedinto the spoiler and a small metal washer glued to a platform in the wing to hold the spoilers closed.

I've attached a pic of how the Z-bend fits in the horn when it's done properly.