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Feb 22, 2015, 11:00 AM
Registered User

Prolight 2000 WinMe and motor speed control


Hi Rob and Others
I want to get Win-Me working for the PROLIGHT instead of DOS
do you run from a desktop shortcut
and what setting do you have been along time ago (15 years)
Thanks

also
everything is working good with the prolight
I found out why I have a loss of power under load
after I called intelitek and minarik (PCM21000A the speed control board)
DC motor magnets get weaker from use and time
also speed control needed adjustment there is 5 pots on the board
tested the volts from motor wires when running max speed
adjusted the SIG ADJ and IR COMP
it works almost as it should

SIG ADJ is max speed volts (Was 10v low adjusted to 90V)
MIN SPD only works in manual mode (Did not adjust)
MAX SPD only works in manual mode (Did not adjust)
TORQUE or current limit factory set at 120% of maximum drive current (Did not adjust)
IR COMP to maintain set speed as the load changes (adjusted THIS WAS IT now works)

and the motor pulleys are stock 40G motor - 30G spindle the belt 70G pitch .200" XL (they measure grooves)
ordered new motor pulley 36G and belt from SDP 5400 to 4800 RPM
I will have to adjust the speed file in PLM2000 folder (SPINDLE.MAP).
Last edited by megclay; Feb 22, 2015 at 12:05 PM.
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Feb 23, 2015, 01:28 PM
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Thread OP
Megclay, your ME settings are the same as mine. It has worked out fine for me. The test of the memory management is to load a really large NC file. I have loaded 35,000 lines without splitting. Another RcGroups member reminded me to check the brushes on my motor, and servo's. Haven't got to it yet.
Feb 23, 2015, 02:42 PM
Registered User
Thanks Rob
I will try the large file trick
I ordered new brushes and installed them
my old ones are still new
maybe .02 shorter
Jun 04, 2015, 12:58 PM
Registered User

Spindle Bearings


I joined this forum, after finding all the great information that Roto Rob has posted about his ProLight CNC machine rebuilding. I have a very similar
Benchman VMC 4000, with the 10,000 RPM spindle, that gets quite a lot of use.
I thought I'd share some of my experiences here, as Rob did, to further help others with these machines.
I guess it's true that Light Machines put what I'd call "hardware store bearings" into the spindles of these little machines. Mine was noisy when I bought it, and being a machinist, assumed it had the wrong bearings in it when I found deep groove 6206 bearings in there. I did my homework, and came up with a suitable upgrade to use a real Angular contact sealed, light grease, spindle bearing.
What I chose was Barden 206HERRUM G-75. This is a 25 deg angular contact,
P2 Precision, non-contact sealed both sides bearing that's already packed with suitable quantity/quality grease for a high RPM spindle. My machine has the air powered drawbar release, and these bearings really stiffened up the spindle from axial deflection when the power drawbar was activated. The bearings also nicely improved the quality of machining as well. I did however regrind the R-8 spindle taper after doing the bearings. I'm using this with the Tormach TTS quick change tool holders, and their balanced R-8 collet, and am having no problems with long hours of machining, at 6-8000 RPM. Without the balanced collet, there would always be a vibration above 6500 RPM, but using Tormachs collet, with a key slot on each side completely solved that issue.

I was able to find my Barden bearings NOS, and at a reasonable price, but there are a few other upgrade options. ...Nachi has a 6206-2NK CM P4
This is a deep groove electric motor bearing that's designed to run with a little axial preload. It's a P-4 precision as well. Overall a pretty well suited bearing...maybe other manufactures have a suitable cross-over as well.
Last edited by Darcy R; Jun 04, 2015 at 01:06 PM.
Jun 04, 2015, 05:35 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thanks, for the bearing information. How was the spindle taper ground, did you do that on the mill. I touched mine up using one of my knife sharpening stones, held at an angle in the vise. Being kind of a caveman approach, I didn't remove much, just enough to get a reasonable surface.
Jun 04, 2015, 10:46 PM
Registered User
Rob, I used an NSK jig grinder mounted to the table, and used a hand written G code to stroke , and feed. It seemed to work really well.
Jun 05, 2015, 03:52 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
I sold my jig grinder, and have missed it.

I was sent some information on the Animatics controller. Looks to be a standard industrial controller, and could probably be easily replaced with a modern one. That way the rest of the electronics could be kept. Not sure what to make of all the info, or the terminal program to directly access the controller, but I posted it incase anyone wants to make use of it.
Also, found some schematic images online. Not the best quality though.
Last edited by Roto Rob; Jun 05, 2015 at 04:05 AM.
May 20, 2019, 10:37 PM
Registered User

awesome thread


This is a great thread. It contains a ton of info I've not seen elsewhere. Too bad it died off.

I just picked up a 2500. Still waiting to get it into my shop and see if it powers on. I was considering a Taig but I decided I wanted something with more weight.

I've created a thread over at CNCZone where I'm planning on documenting my progress with this mill.

Mine has the rev-B backpack (containing the electronics). Roto Rob's 2000 (post #6) and milldalton's 2500 (post #52) is the rev-A. You can tell the difference, the B is wider and has the power switch mounted on the front. The VFD inside my 2500 backpack is a Siemens Micro Master.

milldalton, if you're still reading I'm curious if you ever got your VFD issue resolved. I don't see anything after post 52 where you were sending it to EMA for evaluation.

There is very little info on the 2500 online. There is no mention of it in the ISO archive of Light Machines internal info.

The one thing I didn't realize and probably should have (and would have if the OCR of the 2000/2500 manual wasn't so bad -- I've re OCR'd it now) is that the 2500 doesn't have an R8 spindle. It should have been obvious to me from the speed alone. it's actually an EX16 which is a) obsolete b) limiting. I've read that sometimes ER16 collets will fit an EX16 holder. The manual specifically states "Never use shank tools or any tool with a diameter larger than 3/8" with the proLIGHT 2500". This is the only source I've found for EX16 collets. The mill originally included a 1/8" EX16 according the manual but there is no collet installed.

I saw Roto Robs comment "For awhile I though of making another spindle. But most of my projects only use one size endmill". I must admit the EX16 issue has got me thinking of changing the spindle. The easiest path would be to use a spindle head from the 1000/2000 machines (part# 31-0800-0135) which will bolt upto this 2500. This would allow more choice of tooling, powered draw bars, quick tool change etc.
Last edited by dorkshoei; May 21, 2019 at 02:41 PM.
May 21, 2019, 03:12 PM
Dieselized User
gkamysz's Avatar
EX collets are a Schaublin part number for their ultra precision series (to DIN 6499-A). These are ER16 with better runout tolerance and limited clamping range (ISO h12). So, any ER16 collet will fit your spindle. EX were spec'd to reduce tool runout. They are only necessary when conditions require it. Rego Fix ER16-UP would be similar. None of these are obsolete.

E16, ES16 which has dimensions similar to ER, but lack the groove, is well and truly obsolete. Hah, http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/page16.html contains a typo, clearly causing the confusion.
Jun 03, 2019, 11:40 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by gkamysz
EX collets are a Schaublin part number for their ultra precision series (to DIN 6499-A). These are ER16 with better runout tolerance and limited clamping range (ISO h12). So, any ER16 collet will fit your spindle. EX were spec'd to reduce tool runout. They are only necessary when conditions require it. Rego Fix ER16-UP would be similar. None of these are obsolete.

E16, ES16 which has dimensions similar to ER, but lack the groove, is well and truly obsolete. Hah, http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/page16.html contains a typo, clearly causing the confusion.
Thanks for this. For some reason I didn't get a notification that you'd replied and am only now reading it.

I'd already read the above unimat page and yes I did find it a bit confusing. I don't think the page author realizes there are typos (at least based on this reply to me). A couple of weeks ago I ordered a cheap ER16 collet from China as I suspected based on the info that it would fit. If it indeed does, I'll invest in higher quality ones in 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 sizes though most of my existing end mills are 3/8.

FISCHER USA wanted $145 each for their EX16 collets which isn't happening.

I talked to Intellitek and technically I should be able to install the complete spindle head from a 1000 or 2000 which would give me more choice of tooling. If anyone knows of a spare one I'd appreciate a PM. I'd been told that Intellitek still had some parts for these mills (that they wanted $$$ for) but they said they have nothing ~shrug~
Jun 03, 2019, 01:53 PM
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Thread OP
I have had good results with cheap ER16 collets.
Looks like you found a real nice 2500 mill. I do like ER16, but the R8 does have an advantage in tooling.
If you find any good info on these mills I hope you post it.
Mine has been taking a break while I try to get caught up on other projects. About all it gets used for recently is boring work like projects.
Jun 03, 2019, 02:24 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto Rob
Looks like you found a real nice 2500 mill. I do like ER16, but the R8 does have an advantage in tooling.
Thanks. I spent more for it than I wanted but a) they are uncommon (Intellitek said they sold one 2500 for every thirty 2000s) b) it's in very nice condition

I am going to try finding a 1000/2000 spindle head as in addition to more tooling options - not sure if I'd go R8, maybe something else- the fact that the motor is not direct drive then allows the option of a powered drawbar and tool changers.

Obviously finding the spindle head is just the start.
Jun 03, 2019, 05:06 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
If you are going to make a custom spindle you might consider if you are able to make the entire head.
Jun 03, 2019, 05:15 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto Rob
If you are going to make a custom spindle you might consider if you are able to make the entire head.
I was going to buy a off-the-shelf spindle of some kind and try and make it work via adaption of bearings etc. Making an entire head sounds like a major project due to the size and accuracy needed but finding just a 1000/2000 head doesn't sound easy and so the thought had crossed my mind.


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