Originally Posted by frieslander

You have to undo the antenna screws and flip it up to get at it. The switch is under the antenna.

no need to remove the antenna unless your swapping it to the other position to change between mode 2 & 1
It doesn't matter what mode your using as you always have access to one of the two buttons on the back of the TX

Just a heads up, I'm a very mechanically inclined adult male. I ordered a couple MCX inner shafts, gyros, and top blades, and based on what I can tell, the inner shaft is approximately 1 cm too short to work in the Bravo III. I stripped the bottom collar out...TWICE...trying to get it to work and stay on, I don't think there's enough sticking out to successfully lock the collar onto. If others are having better luck, I'm all ears. Actively waiting for the extra collars I ordered to reattempt.

Originally Posted by mrw3685

Just a heads up, I'm a very mechanically inclined adult male. I ordered a couple MCX inner shafts, gyros, and top blades, and based on what I can tell, the inner shaft is approximately 1 cm too short to work in the Bravo III. I stripped the bottom collar out...TWICE...trying to get it to work and stay on, I don't think there's enough sticking out to successfully lock the collar onto. If others are having better luck, I'm all ears. Actively waiting for the extra collars I ordered to reattempt.

Can those that mentioned the mCX inner shaft is a direct replacement chime in on this? I couldn't verify this information personally, so if it is not 100% correct, I would like to know asap...

Originally Posted by jtravel

no need to remove the antenna unless your swapping it to the other position to change between mode 2 & 1
It doesn't matter what mode your using as you always have access to one of the two buttons on the back of the TX

LOL I was asleep on that one, should have remembered, but at my age the memory cells sometimes go asleep.

A frieslander moment!

Originally Posted by mrw3685

Just a heads up, I'm a very mechanically inclined adult male. I ordered a couple MCX inner shafts, gyros, and top blades, and based on what I can tell, the inner shaft is approximately 1 cm too short to work in the Bravo III. I stripped the bottom collar out...TWICE...trying to get it to work and stay on, I don't think there's enough sticking out to successfully lock the collar onto. If others are having better luck, I'm all ears. Actively waiting for the extra collars I ordered to reattempt.

I had a MCX2 innershaft that looked like it would fit just fine when I had my my bravo 3 torn down a couple weeks ago.
I didn't fully assemble or fly with it however and will double check that next time I tear it down.

What were you going to do with the gyros you ordered?

Sorry it was a mis-speak, I meant to type flybars. I essentially purchased two MCX sets to try, and one for a back-up. I'm convinced their isn't enough length on the MCX shaft to go all the way through the Helo and they get locked down with the collar at the bottom of the gears. The collar is cheap metal and on one side I had barely tightened it down and it stripped. And of course, about a 1/4 turn on the other side and the frigain screw broke. So, once again, more parts on order. The quality of the parts of this thing are starting to bother me...I think the EFlite stuff is of better quality and am inclined to have boughten one instead.

Originally Posted by jtravel

Turn your TX over.
See the two empty screw holes, Look between them and you will see the round button.

So that's what that is! Many thanks

yes, i pulled the inner shaft from my old mcx and it worked perfect in my bravo III but you have to use the flybar assembly too, i flew it that way for about 2 weeks till my stock inner shaft came in

I have 2 Bravo IIIs and have had bigtime problems with them; can't hold altitude in a hover or any other flight regime. Got a Free Spirit with the "real" style TX, bound the Bravos to it, and it's a bunch better than the stock Bravo TX...still touchy, but better.

Did a little investigating on all my transmitters supplied with Bravo IIIs, Bravo SX, Solo Pro, Proto Max, and found that there is some mechanical play in the vertical (throttle) axis of the left stick; ie, the pot wiper doesn't begin to move until the stick has moved thru several degrees of travel. In my estimation, this is a great part of why the Bravo III (and probably the others) are very difficult to control.

Unfortunately, since these stick assemblies are closed units and soldered to the circuit board, I see no way to correct the loose connection between the stick and the throttle pot.

If anyone can come up with a fix for this, it might help a lot of NE fliers.

I received a replacement Bravo III from MRC and so far so good.

I have a question relating to the sub-trim mode. If you are trimming the Bravo III (or solo-pro--in the future) in the sub-trim mode, are the adjustments stored in the RX?

(i.e if I purchase a BNF, would I have to adjust the trim on the TX each time I flew a different heli?)

Originally Posted by laarj

I received a replacement Bravo III from MRC and so far so good.

I have a question relating to the sub-trim mode. If you are trimming the Bravo III (or solo-pro--in the future) in the sub-trim mode, are the adjustments stored in the RX?

(i.e if I purchase a BNF, would I have to adjust the trim on the TX each time I flew a different heli?)

EPA is stored in the RX, trims in the TX. So if you get that BnF, and want to keep flying both helis, you should consider mechanical trimming on one of the helis, so adjusting the linkages, instead of (sub)trimming. Only tail trim will need changing. You could also consider getting one of those new TXs NE is about to release, which have model memory, so you can store trim settings for each heli.

Originally Posted by SoloPro

EPA is stored in the RX, trims in the TX. So if you get that BnF, and want to keep flying both helis, you should consider mechanical trimming on one of the helis, so adjusting the linkages, instead of (sub)trimming. Only tail trim will need changing. You could also consider getting one of those new TXs NE is about to release, which have model memory, so you can store trim settings for each heli.

Thanks for the info....

In regards to using an MCX inner shaft in the Bravo III, as of today one of mine is flying quite nicely with the MCX shaft, blades, and flybar. The Eflite parts have what looks to me to be a superior design for the blade pivot mechanism, but time will tell. I didn't break it in several mishaps today! (small room with many obstacles) The MCX shaft was exactly the same length as the Nine Eagles part.

Dave

Originally Posted by mrw3685

Just a heads up, I'm a very mechanically inclined adult male. I ordered a couple MCX inner shafts, gyros, and top blades, and based on what I can tell, the inner shaft is approximately 1 cm too short to work in the Bravo III. I stripped the bottom collar out...TWICE...trying to get it to work and stay on, I don't think there's enough sticking out to successfully lock the collar onto. If others are having better luck, I'm all ears. Actively waiting for the extra collars I ordered to reattempt.

Originally Posted by magna99

In regards to using an MCX inner shaft in the Bravo III, as of today one of mine is flying quite nicely with the MCX shaft, blades, and flybar. The Eflite parts have what looks to me to be a superior design for the blade pivot mechanism, but time will tell. I didn't break it in several mishaps today! (small room with many obstacles) The MCX shaft was exactly the same length as the Nine Eagles part.

Dave

Contradicting experiences. Can you both measure the length of your mCX shafts? Perhaps there is variation in the length.

Hi guys, I just ordered a Bravo III, and I am looking to order parts and batteries for it. Hobby King has parts and batteries for Solo Pro FP II, but not for the Bravo III. Will the parts for Solo Pro FP II fit a Bravo III? I listed the link below. Thanks.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idCategory=359