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Jan 18, 2011, 02:19 AM
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Great Planes Electricub


I have spent the last few years over in the freeflight section and decided it was time to get back into RC. The last time I worked on a RC plane was back in the early 90's, so it has been awhile. The only two completed builds I have from that era is a Goldberg Piper Cub and a Sig 1/5 Piper Cub, I will post pictures of those two later. A few years ago I was in a hobby store and found this Electricub on clearance so I bought it. A lot has changed in RC since I last built a model or flown one. For one, everything is RTF and there are no kits at my local Hobby Store. Also the world of electronics is amazing and I think all my future RC builds will be electric. This Cub was built per the plans with no real modifications. I followed the plans and used med. CA for most of the build, this was a first and a last for me. Normally I use white glue except where Epoxy is called for. I don't mind using clamps and rubber bands. The CA made a mess and the parts stuck to the plan protector, also sanding was a pain. My next RC build will be with the plain old white glue. For covering I wanted to use Monokote since that is what I used to use in the 80s and early 90s. Unfortunately my LHS did not have Cub yellow but did have Econokote and Ultracote. The worker said the Ultracote is the same as Monokote so I took it home. Well I read the directions that came with the covering and gave it shot, heck it has only been 20 years since Ive done this type of work should go well. I could not put the Ultracote down as tight as I could with Monokote so I was worried at first until I began to shrink it. I was amazed how well it shrank and went around the wing tip with ease, but that was short lived. I had the covering on the wing all sealed and ready for the right side and I began to see the covering coming loose and I was bummed. I don't know what I did wrong but decided to wait and buy some Monokote. The Monokote came in today and I started covering the wing tonight. I took out my trusty iron, heat gun, razors and rulers and let the fun begin. The covering went on nice and tight and the wing tip took more work than the Ultracote, but at least it stayed attached. Tomorrow I will finish the wing and begin on the fuselage.







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Jan 18, 2011, 09:16 AM
Visitor from Reality
Nice model. Flies great, I reviewed it for an English magazine not long after it came out - you have the later Mk2 version. You'll have less difficulty getting the battery in and out - it was designed around a seven cell nicad pack, which took up a lot of fuselage.

My favourite wood glue these days is 'Titebond II premium wood glue' - it's yellow, reasonably priced and available from most hardware stores. Dries fairly quickly, easy to sand when dry.

Hobby shops have largely given up on kits - they prefer paying their bills and more people like to buy big shiny boxes these days than exert themselves There are still plenty of kits around though, you just have to go online to find them. Bound to be a list of kitters around here, plus adverts and threads on the latest ones out.

From fuzzy old memories of the kit, you'll be looking at a different motor mount if you're planning on using present day outrunner motor rather than the hefty lump of geared brushed ferrite motor it was designed around.

When you get to flying, I always flew mine with the struts on. Claims are, it can fly without them, but it looks kinda goofy and that wing structure is not that stiff without the struts in place.

For inspiration, the images are my Sig 1/6th clipwing. It was my third Cub - others were one from the kit you're building and an 'electrocuted' Sig 1/5th with the long wing. None of them were yellow - it's just me The 1/5th was a great model, but a pain to carry around. I sold the 1/6th clipwing when we moved, model aircraft wouldn't have survived that mess too well so I found a good home for her.

Good luck

Dereck
Jan 19, 2011, 11:56 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Dereck, your Cub looks great.






Jan 19, 2011, 10:06 PM
Visitor from Reality
Thank you - but one day, I will do a Cub yellow RC Cub. Honest

Yours is coming along nicely. It's a good model for loafing around on nice calm days. Be even better when you consider that mine flew with some 14 ounces of nicad - you could be flying on a 3S lipo around half that. Vaguely recall mine had a throbbing 140 or 150W, you may only need 2S.

D
Jan 20, 2011, 01:14 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
A little more done today, finished covering and painted the plastic parts with Lusterkote Cub Yellow. I am thinking about switching over to a Lipo Battery. You think 2S will be enough? Can't wait to start on my Great Planes 1/5 scale Cub.





Jan 20, 2011, 11:23 AM
Registered User
Wow that looks great! Great job on the covering too.

Tim
Jan 20, 2011, 01:10 PM
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Thread OP
Thank you, one more day for the paint to dry and I can finish this bird. Next will be the Great Planes .40 Piper Cub.
Jan 20, 2011, 04:36 PM
Visitor from Reality
If you really have a Cub thing - I don't, cos I've only had four (if you include the 16" span rubber powered FF profile one) - the real good one is Sig's 1/5th - the kit included the plan and parts to build either a regular wing or clipwing. It's about as 'scale' as you could ask for in a kit - for one, it's really 1/5th scale at 84.5", not the "Immense Model Aircraft Association legal" 80 and a bit inches span. Laser cut parts and a scale-like two piece wing make it somewhat more practical than some, plus it has the scale operating cockpit door and window, which makes it great for getting at the battery.

Mine weighed 8lbs with a 32oz NiMh battery in old money - only around 600W, but it would do aerobatics just like the J3 I saw looping and rolling.

One of my clubmates electrocuted the GP 40 Cub, by bolting a geared Astro 25 brushed motor into the glow engine mount and stuffing a 16 cell - 32 or so ounce - nicad into it. I did the test flights - it was okay, but the weight meant that stalling speed was but a little below normal flying speed. Said a lot about how good a model it was that it flew that.

D
Jan 20, 2011, 08:23 PM
Airliner Builder
WAGliderGuy's Avatar
Wow you sure can work with MonoKote alot better then I can! I am used to lighter coverings like Solarfilm and Solite that shrinks easily. My first covering job was MonoKote and all I can say is that I was so ashamed I stripped it all off and did it again Made excellent practice though and it looked much greater then before

Any idea what power system you are going to use?
Jan 20, 2011, 10:12 PM
son of a pilot
Scott C's Avatar
Great covering job. I am one of those rare MonoKote fans. As long as your cub is not stored outside, it will look the same in twenty years from now. Not exactly biodegradable.
Jan 21, 2011, 12:13 AM
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Thread OP
Still working on the motor configuration. So far I have built the Goldberg Cub, Sig 1/5th Cub and now this one. The Sig Cub was started in the late 80s and almost finished in the early 90s. I have it all covered and still have to do the details. I had it at my uncles house for the last 20 years with my Goldberg Cub and I will be getting the Sig Cub back this week. My Next Cub will be the Great Planes .40 Cub. Monokote is all I know and it has never been real easy to deal with, but that's all I new for plastic coating. I was really impressed with Ulracote, too bad I could not get it to stick to the balsa. I will build a practice wing and give it another try before I give up. There is no room for error with Monokote, but Ultracote appears to be very forgiving.
Jan 21, 2011, 09:51 AM
Visitor from Reality
Though I keep thinking I ought to revert to Solarfilm, it's probably hereditary, as Solarfilm and me are both British by birth... These days, it's Monokote for my concept of 'larger' models , Towerkote for 'prototypes' - cheaper, for use on models that might not be quite right, and Solite on smaller and lightweight models.

Monokote is good, though a little hefty and not for real lightweight structures - one pass with the hot air gun and it's a potato chip Solite, OTOH, is great for real light frameworks - it shrinks plenty but doesn't warp them, but requires a degree of patience and understanding to apply without insanity setting in as it sticks to itself and about anything else handy bar the model.

As my Cub'ing has been gently sliding down the size scale, maybe next winter it'll be time for a Pat Tritle or thereabouts?
Jan 21, 2011, 04:23 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
I finished the Cub today, minus some of the electronics and pushrods. So far the weight as shown is 1.8 lb. Not a scale Cub, but not too bad for a fun easy build. I will post pictures of my almost done Sig Cub from the late 80's on Monday, and I will finish that. I have a couple more RC Cubs in the attic, so I think I will knock them out. I have the Herr Cub, Sig Clip Wing 1/6 Scale, and the Great Planes 1/6 off scale. I think the Herr Cub will be covered with Ultracote, I really want to give that stuff another shot. As you can tell I like Cubs. Other RC builds when I aquire the kits will be, Sig Rascal and Great Planes Slowpoke.











Jan 21, 2011, 08:18 PM
Airliner Builder
WAGliderGuy's Avatar
Strip ailerons on a Cub!? Bleeeeck!!

Well you said its not scale haha. Otherwise you did an amazing job with the decals there, this should looks sweet flying around on lazy summer days. Good job!
Jan 21, 2011, 09:00 PM
Visitor from Reality
Quote:
Originally Posted by WAGliderGuy
Strip ailerons on a Cub!? Bleeeeck!!

Well you said its not scale haha. Otherwise you did an amazing job with the decals there, this should looks sweet flying around on lazy summer days. Good job!
Ever see the Mk 1 E-Cub?

scigs - if you've got a little Cub like the Herr, consider giving 'SoLite' a shot. It's sold under a few other names in the US, but it's the same stuff as Solarfilm's SoLite brand. At 0.6oz a square yard, its hard to beat for a little model.

Wonder how long I can last Cub-free?

D


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