Nescent: I did not read your previous post. Unfortunately, not all emails get to me. Did you place the order online? If you did, it would really help if you can email or pm me your name. My direct email is schao@cermark.com
Black heart: Thanks for reprinting for me.

Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

Nescent, Ah, I saw the 4 messages you left in the box (dated from late late Oct -mid Nov). I am sorry we don't keep track of the orders we marked completed. Please accept my apollogy.

As I go through the record, I actually remember this package, because I was the person who actually pulled your shipment.... I believe you received a standard Hausler tail section, not the one that was actually billed to you.

Do you still want the tail section? I will simply mail you the carbon fiber tail blades to help complete the order, or do you want to simply forget it. In that case, I will ask the accounting to refund you the $24.99 (via same payment method mentioned on #3327).


Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

Originally Posted by Steven Chao

Nescent, Ah, I saw the 4 messages you left in the box (dated from late late Oct -mid Nov). I am sorry we don't keep track of the orders we marked completed. Please accept my apollogy.

As I go through the record, I actually remember this package, because I was the person who actually pulled your shipment.... I believe you received a standard Hausler tail section, not the one that was actually billed to you.

Do you still want the tail section? I will simply mail you the carbon fiber tail blades to help complete the order, or do you want to simply forget it. In that case, I will ask the accounting to refund you the $24.99 (via same payment method mentioned on #3327).


Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

mail the missing parts and we can put to rest the issue

OK quick question Why would My rudder try to over extend?
At just under 3/4 travel from center to the left or the right I am at max extension.

Just So you know I have not edited My TX at all.


-------------------EDIT-----------------------------
O.K. Just to give you an idea what I'm talking about I went into my TX and adjusted out CH4 to 60% 38% in order to stop the servo from trying to push the rear blades out of socket This just don't seem right to me.

Just got my Hausler RTF today. Pulled it out of the box and looked it over real quick. I have to wait until tomorrow to get my 450 toolkit and locktite to go over the heli. What I did do tonight was get rid of the ratcheting throttle control. To get rid of the ratcheting, I just unscrewed the screw holding the spring arm riding on the teeth of the throttle gimbal. Instead of putting tubing over it or anything, I just turned the spring arm over so the back of the arm was on the teeth and the action was smooth. An interesting and pleasant thing occurred! Because of the way the end of the arm is indented so that it would normally ride in the teeth, with the arm upside down the indention acts on the bottom of the gimbal and actually lightly locks the throttle in the full down position, requiring positive pressure to come off of full down. Cool!

Black_heart: dumb questions, but we need to frame your problem first, sorry.

1. is it original servo and servo arm?
2. are you using the original tx / rx / esc?
3. you mentioned that you have not edited you TX at all. Is it your own TX or were you referring to edited the TX via computer?
4. what position is the rudder servo arm when it is in neutra position?
5. have you made any linkage adjustment or changes?

do you have pics to post?


Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

Originally Posted by Steven Chao

1. is it original servo and servo arm?

Yes

Originally Posted by Steven Chao

2. are you using the original tx / rx / esc?

Original TX

Originally Posted by Steven Chao

3. you mentioned that you have not edited you TX at all. Is it your own TX or were you referring to edited the TX via computer?

No change via PC

Originally Posted by Steven Chao

4. what position is the rudder servo arm when it is in neutra position?

Center

Originally Posted by Steven Chao

5. have you made any linkage adjustment or changes?

No
This was straight out of the box

No I do not have any pics and I have taken the bird apart to go threw all the screws to make sure they are all lock tited properly

AAARRRRGGGHHHHH!!!!!!

Well, I loaded up the T6 Config software and did a GetUser to see the transmitter settings. I wiggled the sticks to confirm that all channels were responding. But, I noticed that the ruder trim wasn't centered, so I gave it a +2 on subtrim to get it centered. When I hit OK for the subtrim menu, it somehow cleared out all the other settings for the radio. I now have NO factory settings. Can anyone give me the factory settings, or a location where I can download a file with the original settings?

Mark

Is there any way to slow down the start up on the motors or do I need to replace the Esc?

EDIT---------------------
Never Mind I got it figured out

Is the 12V converter for the charger suppose to shut off?
I try to charge my battery and about 15miute in it shuts down completely and I have to unplug it from the wall to get it to power back up so I'm never sure if Im getting a full charge.

Black heart: thanks for your answers. What you need to do is to adjust the ZD720, the gyro. There are multiple adjustments on the Gyro. You just want to adjust the dial labled "LIMIT". I believe you should dial that to the left (reduction), until the the gyro reduces the rudder servo limit.

There is no way to reduce the rpm on start up. Perhaps you mean a softer start? In most case, the ESC is already set on soft-start mode.

Most batteries are not fully charged upon arrival (around 60-75%). They will get bumped off after initial charge of less than 30 min. However, the charge time after the fist charge will be significant longer.

GettinOut: Use the cd that came with your kit. I believe the setup is on there.

Loading the Transmitter T6 Software

CD is PC compatible (not Mac). You can fine tune your set up from scale flight to full 3D
capability using the software. Make certain that you transmitter is ON when attaching and detaching USB cable. Your transmitter must be connected to your PC using the USB cord for the changes to be made in the transmitter. Different models can be created and stored using the “Save” function in the software.

Factory Channel Assignment

Channel 1 Aileron (on)
Channel 2 Elevator (on)
Channel 3 Brushless Motor (on)
Channel 4 Rudder (on)
Channel 5 Gyro rate (on)
Channel 6 Aileron (off)

Initial Transmitter Setting

Do not adjust trims as they are preset from test flight. The left knob is for pitch - aileron (computer disabled – can be turned on via computer), the right knob is for your “piro rate”, gains, or how quickly the tail responds. Simply back off the knob so that the tail does not wag or hunt. The top switches are to be in their rear positions (away from pilot) for beginners. As you become familiar with your 450, move the knobs to find your preference.


Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

I've ordered mine couple of days ago. I use Phoenix 3 simulator to practice. will i be able to somehow connect the Hausler TX to the Phoenix sim?

Thanks.

Should I put lube on my tail rotor shaft its binding on me.
I cleaned it up the shaft as good as I could but it still has a little bind.

Originally Posted by yoreh

I've ordered mine couple of days ago. I use Phoenix 3 simulator to practice. will i be able to somehow connect the Hausler TX to the Phoenix sim?

Thanks.

I've tried with no go
I would like to know if this TX well work with this
CopterX (CX-3X1000) Flybarless 3 Axis Gyro System