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Old Jan 15, 2011, 12:51 PM
patmat2350 is offline
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RingTheBellsThatStillCanR ing
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The Daily Gripe


Gripe #1:

Why can't purveyors of hobby wood find sticky labels that come off in one piece!!!???#@&%

I end up having to soak the wood with solvent, or deal with scraps of residual glue, even after heating the labels (which helps if the label is fresh, not so much on years old stock...)



BTW, does Midwest know that Michael's is stocking their Midwest product racks with Revell wood?
And who knew that Revell was selling wood?

.
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Old Jan 15, 2011, 01:12 PM
Aerominded is offline
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The picture conveys your feelings well!

I share your frustration with older labels.
Old Jan 15, 2011, 01:32 PM
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PatMat expresses his dismay regarding stickers on wood.

angry talking cat (1 min 22 sec)


.

Old Jan 15, 2011, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patmat2350 View Post
Gripe #1:

Why can't purveyors of hobby wood find sticky labels that come off in one piece!!!???#@&%


BTW, does Midwest know that Michael's is stocking their Midwest product racks with Revell wood?
And who knew that Revell was selling wood?

.
I agree with Gripe #1

I knew Michael's was now selling Revell wood and I posted that a few months ago. It is also about 1/4 the cost of the Midwest wood and as far as I can tell is just as good a quality.
Old Jan 15, 2011, 03:39 PM
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LOL

Very true though.

Nick
Old Jan 15, 2011, 06:47 PM
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When they used to come stamped with dye that was worse I think. It always seemed to end up in an obvious spot, but I agree that sure is some stubborn glue.
Old Jan 15, 2011, 07:47 PM
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LOL, was just yesterday muttering to myself about getting the Revell labell on wood that I had picked up at Michael's.

Picked it up since they where haveing a one day sale on selected items at 40% off, now have several sheets of 1/8 ply 1x2 ft. Just couldn't pass up the price.
Old Jan 15, 2011, 11:15 PM
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Taking care of the pond.
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++++1
Old Jan 16, 2011, 07:54 AM
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Yet another reason I buy balsa by the cord.

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Old Jan 16, 2011, 08:01 AM
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I have the same gripe with the stickers on the K&S tubing.
At least on them you can use Goo-be-gone. Dave.
Old Jan 16, 2011, 09:05 AM
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Daily Gripe #2:

Why can't RPM (aka Testors/Pactra/Floquil/PollyScale/Model Master) design bottles that don't dry themselves shut, with cap liners that don't shred to pieces, further ruining the poor seal? Is it just planned obsolescence?

Some don't care for Tamiya paints... but at least they have a cap design that minimizes drips onto the bottle threads, with a plastic liner that doesn't shred. I never have a problem reopening Tamiya bottles.

I do try to wipe the bottle before recapping, but many of my jars require jackhammers and C4 to reopen!


BTW:I used to store my paint bottles in a drawer... of course they got all mixed up, couldn't tell what I had, and I frequently went out and bought duplicates... leading to quite the collection! So I got a cheap medicine cabinet, installed extra shelves, and now I can better see my hoard. And yes, much of what's in there is probably a decade old...

.
Last edited by patmat2350; Jan 16, 2011 at 09:12 AM.
Old Jan 16, 2011, 09:51 AM
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Father taught me a couple of tricks regarding those wonderful testors jars;
1) paint out of the lid so you don't have it drip into the treads when you close it (dip your brush into the paint on the lid )
2) use a q-tip to remove anything left over from the lid after you get done painting before you seal it back up.
3) I personally, have put saran wrap over the top of the jar then sealed the lid down (gives it a better seal)
a) I think there is a bit of planned obsolesce so that you do no exceed the shelf life of the paint anyways.

As for getting sticker residue off; try a good hard gun eraser (Micheal's has them) after you get the sticker off of the tubing. My family (military, so always moving) has used that trick for years, even works on finished side of wood as long as you are not too aggressive. It doesn't take much to remove the goo.
Foo
Old Jan 16, 2011, 09:52 AM
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Pat, Go easy on yourself.
Get your butane torch, pass it over the metal cap a couple of seconds, and before you know it the cap screws right off.
Careful though it can be pretty warm.
I don't even try anymore to JUST unscrew them anymore....butane torch first!
Old Jan 16, 2011, 10:07 AM
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Hmm, torch, glass bottle, flammable liquids, plastic seals... what could go wrong?

OK, how about another paint gripe: How about rationalizing some of the colors, Testors? Just WHAT is the difference between flat white, header flat white, Aero Flat white, and Reefer white? or Classic White and Gloss White? The paint chips on the racks and on the web do nothing to tell us more.

And is Testors Primer Gray really a primer? Or just primer gray color? How about a clue, guys!
Old Jan 16, 2011, 11:00 AM
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Okay, how many have tried putting the glass Testors bottle in a vise to hold it while using pliers to unscrew the cap? And having the bottle shatter before the cap unscrews.


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