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Jan 13, 2011, 11:34 AM
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E-flite mCX2 binding to HP6DSM: The definitive answers

I know that there has been talk about binding the E-flite mCX2 to the HP6DSM transmitter, and in reviewing the older threads I saw that there is some incorrect advice, and also discussion of strange behaviors.

For example:

Wrong information:
I[f] you’re using the HP6DSM you have to reverse the following Dip Switches to on: 4,6,7,8

Having had to just sort through all of this myself, I thought I would share my experience and observations, hopefully it can save someone else some time and frustration.

I have a Blade 400 with DX6i coming shortly, and when it gets here, that will be the receiver for my mCX2, CP PRo2, and Blade 400. But for now, I have the HP6DSM in hand, so I thought I would use it with the mCX2 to try it out.

1) The basics: You cannot just turn on the HP6DSM and hope it binds with your mCX2. There are two reasons it won't happen:
-- The dipswitch settings on the HP6DSM are likely wrong (since it probably came bundled with a CPP2 or MSR)
-- Once the dip switches are correctly set, you still need to put the HP6DSM into bind mode first. This is done by pulling forward on the trainer switch while turning the transmitter on. You will see the LED flash several times, then go steady.

2) So, first, let's review the available dipswitch settings:

Dip Switch 1*
Up—Channel 1/Throttle channel reversed
Down—Channel 1/Throttle channel normal
*For safety, channel 1/throttle channel reversing can only be changed when the transmitter is powered off. All
other dip switch positions/functions can be changed while the transmitter is powered on.
Dip Switch 2
Up—Channel 2/Aileron channel reversed
Down—Channel 2/Aileron channel normal
Dip Switch 3
Up—Channel 3/Elevator channel reversed
Down—Channel 3/Elevator channel normal
Dip Switch 4
Up—Channel 4/Rudder channel reversed
Down—Channel 4/Rudder channel normal
Dip Switch 5
Up—Channel 5/Gear channel reversed
Down—Channel 5/Gear channel normal
Dip Switch 6
Up—Channel 6/Pitch channel reversed
Down—Channel 6/Pitch channel normal
Dip Switch 7
Up—Helicopter Mode (Channel 6 becomes pitch channel)
Down—Airplane Mode (Channel 6 becomes an extra aileron channel)
Dip Switch 8*
Up—120-degree Cyclic Collective Pitch Mixing (CCPM)
Down—Standard mixing
*Only functions when in helicopter mode.
Dip Switch 9*
Up—Rudder/Elevator (Ruddervator/V-Tail) mixing
Down—No mixing
*Only functions when in airplane mode, and no function if switch 10 is in the up position.
Dip Switch 10*
Up—Elevator/Aileron (Elevon) mixing
Down—No mixing
*Only functions when in airplane mode, and no function if switch 9 is in the up position.
3) The correct switch settings for the mCX2 are:

4 & 8 ON, everything else OFF. I followed some other advice, and had 4,6,7,8, on, and then the servos were not working correctly, and I played with other settings, and got odd behavior. Trust me, 4 and 8 are all you need, and will work. I know you are using 'airplane' mode, and not 'heli', but depending on knob settings, you can get some strange results when apparently the mixing occurs, and the servos are reversed from expected. I got full RH aileron, and even with full trim in, could barely hold hover. I've also heard of rudder issues. I think if you follow these settings below, you will be okay, if not, please post your own results!

4) There is no bind plug on the mCX2. When I had difficulty getting the Xmtr and heli to play together, I took the body off to check if I had overlooked a bind plug that might not have been installed on my own RTF, but was present when shipped as a BNF/PNP version. Nope.

5) So, with the switches set correctly, make sure your xmitter is prepped:


then pull the spring loaded trainer switch forward, turn the xmitter on, and observe the fast flashing of the LED, followed by solid. Xmitter is now in bind mode, you can release the trainer switch.

*(If you leave the throttle stick in any other position, when you later select THROTTLE HOLD toggle, the throttle will not be at zero, it will be at this 'memory' position! When I first bound my mCX2 to the HP6DSM, I inadvertently left the stick up, then during flight, I hit throttle hold to test killing the throttle. Instead, of course, the heli hit the ceiling!)

6) If we assume your mCX2 has already been bound to another Xmiter, then you know that the indication it is properly bound will be a solid glowing blue canopy LED. No LED usually means the gyro has not been initialized properly - be sure that once you turn the xmitter and then the heli on, in that order, that you allow the bird to sit still in one orientation for a few seconds.

7) When turning on an already bound heli, the LED turns blue in seconds, but it might take up to a minute or so for the bind to take place the first time. If the blue cockpit LED flashes rapidly then it is trying to bind. If this happens for more than five minutes, turn everything off, and repeat steps 5 and 6 above.

8) That's it. A little trim, and everything worked perfectly.

The HP6DSM is a very nice and an easy upgrade from the MLP4DSM that shipped with my mCX2 RTF. If you are using the stock xmitter, a really cheap upgrade, and a way to get prepped for more advanced radios, is to buy one of the many HP6DSMs out there for sale. (Like my own will be shortly, of course!) What I am looking forward to is getting the Dx6i programmed with all my helis in it.
Last edited by tracknoob; Jan 13, 2011 at 11:52 AM.
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