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Apr 07, 2013, 08:28 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant
Jim - If both chassis are still grounded via the power cord, there is no need to separate them.

SuperFat - Since the negative side of the floated power supply is at 12V above ground, making any connection from it to ground will result in the power supply with the grounded negative output seeing a short circuit and shutting down. It may damage whatever caused the short before it shuts down.
Yes I know. The positive from the PS1 which is the 12V will be connected to the floating 12V Neg of the PS2 which will be the 24V source. The floating neg will be internal like some of the others I have see.

The finished panel will have only 12V +/- and 24V +/- binding posts so if others use it, the float neg will never accidentally ground. Also the binding posts for the 12V side will be 4mm, and the 24V side are 5mm to separate them.
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Oct 27, 2013, 10:54 AM
Registered User
rinatka7's Avatar
Hello to all.
Could someone help me with my part list for converting DPS-600pb power supply.
Some info: Powerlab 8 + 2 in parallel DPS-600pb.
Binding post -
1)http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pair-Ampli...item563e4c3b6e
or
2)http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-and-Blac...item35b99eb3f8
Connectors -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190836891487...84.m1423.l2649
Wires - 12 AWG.

And scheme how to power on PSU.
Feb 28, 2014, 09:47 AM
Collect Vintage Kyosho 1:10
TM Ru22311's Avatar
I was wondering if it possible to get a 5v connection from this PSU without adding resistors? I know there has been a lot of revisions and more info has been posted about the pinouts, so I just wondered if it was easier than adding different resistors to different pins, Thanks.

Also (and please forgive me) but does anyone have quick links to info/pics on removing the board and internalizing the binding posts (these threads are really long). :/
Mar 12, 2014, 03:09 PM
Registered User
Hi,

Could someone please explain where do I need to connect the zener diode for safety when using them in series? One PS is grounded and second one is not (anymore). I understand I need to connect zener to the floating PS. Does it have to be in between "+" and ground? How do I select correct size zener, I understand it needs to be more than 12,6V? I can get from a local electronics store 13V, 14V and 15V 5W zener diodes?

I measured on the psu that AC ground is also connected to the frame of my psu, should I remove that one also on one ps?

I'm using the HP PS-3701-1
725W 60A

Thanks
Raimo
Mar 12, 2014, 03:41 PM
Registered User
From where do you glean that a zener is required?
Mar 12, 2014, 03:57 PM
Pitch - Roll - Y'all
I believe that the zener is part of the original design by AKSCHU. It was a safety feature in case there was a fault as one of the units is ungrounded. Check some of the earlier posts.

The zener value should be found in the same general area. A search on "zener" should work I would think.
May 29, 2014, 05:48 PM
Registered User
So I have read a lost of post about floating the ground on the 2nd PSU. So I just want to double check, if I check continuity between the DC ground and the chassis of the PSU, if it reads open then I am ok to have the two PSU touching each other?
Jan 19, 2015, 08:26 AM
Registered User
Hi,

I have just finished my HP DPS-600PB conversion project and got very disappointed.

I shorted 6-9-10 and also tried 6-8-10 with a 370Ωpotentiometer between 3 and 9.

Both configurations work with fan in top speed and then shut down after a few minutes charging in parallel 2 6s 5000mAh 40C at 7Ah.

Does anyone know what can I do to fix this?

Thanks,
JFonseca
Jul 11, 2015, 06:06 PM
Registered User
Do I need a "floated ground" if I don't let the PSU cases touch?
Jul 11, 2015, 07:07 PM
Use the 4S Luke
feathermerchant's Avatar
J Fonseca - sorry you are having problems. Have a look at my blog for how I connect mine. The DPS600 is very reliable when built correctly.
Dec 11, 2015, 12:22 AM
Registered User

Voltage unstable if casing touches


Just finished isolating the DC ground on one of my two DPS 1300 BB psu's.

However when the psu chassis casing touches each other the voltage goes all over the place.. I thought if one side DC is isolated the cases can/should touch? With the cases separated the voltage reads 12 or 24v at the correct points. If the touch it soars upwards!?

Ground is isolated (tested DC ground out to its case) until I connect the a/c Y power cable, then the isolated unit gets a high resistance connection between its ground output and its case..
Mar 20, 2016, 04:33 AM
Registered User
I just converted two of the HP DPS-600PB B ESP135 Series (Rev. 0F(04)M) PSUs.

I wanted to get rid of the DC-Board completely, so I mapped out the pins to the large control board where the ribbon cable goes and soldered jumperes right there.

It might help someone. Use at your own risk! Might be nice if someone could verify the mapping.
Apr 14, 2016, 10:14 AM
Registered User
usallytractors's Avatar

HP proliant dl380 33542


Hi all.
I have been using the above ps for some time with total success. More recently, i aquired a 4x100w ac/dc charger. It works fine on an external dc supply, but it's internal 240v-12v transformer is history, There is plenty of space to fit another server supply if i remove old ac/dc transformer. My question is simply what happens if when i use external dc supply (battery) with server supply inside and connected, (but off). ? Potentially back feeding server supply..... This must happen when two server supplyies are connected for 24v and load is applied but only one is running. Does server supply have diodes to protect it from this ? What does a diode look like. ??
Any info much appreciated. If i get smoke before an answer, i'll post.
Apr 15, 2016, 08:09 AM
Use the 4S Luke
feathermerchant's Avatar
Most power supplies today are switching power supplies and so have diodes close to the output which should prevent backflow. The diodes in server supplies are in a package like a transistor and are heatsinked. Let us know what you find.
Apr 23, 2016, 12:17 AM
Registered User
ilium007's Avatar
Does anyone know where to get suitable binding posts for this charger build here in Australia ? I know this is an old thread but I have two if these I want to get running. The Digikey site wants to charge me AUD$30 postage for two of the keystone binding posts.

Are the short kits for these chargers still available from @akschu ?


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