Pride of Baltimore (the first one) c.1981 - Page 7 - RC Groups
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Apr 02, 2012, 02:43 PM
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The epoxy was still tacky yesterday, so I let it sit till today, and though it seems to be set-up just fine; I'm considering putting 4 or 5 fasteners in the wale just for good measure.

Meanwhile, I got another piece of the screen molding and some other items yesterday, and today I cut, beveled, wet, and formed the port side wale to the hull.

When that dried, I glued it on with 1 hour epoxy. Two hours later and that's still tacky.

I'll be able to slap some paint on this thing soon.
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Apr 05, 2012, 01:27 PM
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Painted Pride

The clamps came off and after a bit of sanding and a little filling - I painted the bottom with a coat of white primer.

I trimmed the sheer a little from amidships to just short of the bow - the sheer line looks smoother now that that bit of a hump is gone. The wales also looked too thick to my eye, so I shaved them down some with a block plane and utility knife.

When that set up I marked the waterline. Then I marked the painted waterline about 1/2" higher.

When to the local hardware store looking for paint figuring to get some green, white, and blue to mix the color I wanted; but they had no green I could use, every thing was gloss, and it just cost too much for a quart of store-brand enamel.

Instead, I got a can of Rust-oleum satin Moss Green. I could stand a touch of blue in it, but other wise it looks pretty good.

I sprayed a couple of coats on the bottom and pulled the tape. When that had set up for a while, I retaped with easy-off tape and painted the topsides flat black to the top of the wales. There's some molding and the channels to go on above the wales, so I didn't paint up that high yet.
Apr 05, 2012, 11:27 PM
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Changing the channel

I finished up the day by attaching the starboard side hawse bolster, molding, and forward channel.

This molding on the real boat was actually the outside, rounded-over edge of the cap rail on top of the waterways. Rather than cut off the bulwarks, I just applied that outside edge as a molding.

The channel is pinned with a pair of cut-off 4p finish nails as pins. It tucks right under the cap rail/molding. The port side channel is shaped and ready to install, but the molding hasn't gone onto the port side yet.
Apr 07, 2012, 12:56 PM
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Got the molding onto the other side, slapped on a bit more paint, and cut out the gunports.

Somehow I managed to screw up the placement of the deck clamp. I set it to make the deck flush with the stem head forward and it should be about 3/8" lower. I either have to cut it out, pop it loose, or some combination of those to reset it in the right place. "Three steps forward, two steps back" - will probably be engraved on my urn.
Apr 07, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Fashion, pieces

As planned, the fashion pieces and transom wings where installed, as well as the "fancy piece" on the transom, and the name board, with some 1/16" half-round from Doll House Collectables.

Inside the arch of the transom I'll put in a veneer of mahogany that will get finished bright.

Looking at all the pictures the get this bit right, I noticed she sailed right at her painted waterline, so I'll be moving the black back down 1/2".
Apr 09, 2012, 03:34 PM
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Looking at all the pictures, it seems they kept her pretty much right at her painted waterline, so I repainted it to the load line on the plans.

I shaved off a bit of mahogany on the bandsaw and sanded it down to a veneer, and trimmed it to a cardboard template I made when I built up the transom. It's not glued in yet - I'll do that when there's no more painting to be done around it. I have to make a Lord Baltimore flag oval to put in the center of it.

Finally, I went around checking the level of the deck clamp and decided I must have been drunk when I put it in. (That's a neat trick for a guy that's had beer in his fridge for over a year, and booze in the cabinet for a decade) So I pulled it out and will start over - hopefully I won't screw it up a second time.

Remember folks - I post this log so you'll see how NOT to build a model.
Apr 11, 2012, 08:52 AM
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Since I pulled out the deck clamp, I figured to rethink the deck. I'd really like to get some thin plywood, like 1/8" "doorskin" and some birch veneer which will give me a deck about 3/16" thick. But finding that stuff around here is like finding an honest politician.

I went looking for a little red paint for the waterway cap molding. $3 for a tiny bottle of Testor's modelling enamel; $7 for a pint of store brand. Is there platinum in paint? There was a "Dollar General" store next door and I looked in there, just in case, and found regal red spray paint for under $3. I really didn't want spray paint, but that's what I could find without driving all over creation.

I masked off the molding on one side and sprayed a couple of coats. After touching up where it bled under the masking, it wasn't too bad.
To do the other side I sprays some paint onto a sheet of cardboard and brushed it on. That worked pretty well except it dried very quickly requiring me to respray it a lot.

I put on the other three channels. Same drill, epoxied and pinned with 16ga steel brads. They got a coat of paint and I sat the model out in the sun while I stuck wale planks on Macedonian.
Apr 13, 2012, 11:25 PM
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I've decided I'm going to use 3/16" luan ply (same as I'm using on Constellation as a sub deck and glue down strips of something, probably bass, for the finished deck. With that decided, I know how thick the finished deck will be and can set the deck clamp accordingly.

That done, I decided to thin out the deck beams. They're no longed notched , but simply butt to the deck clamp. Blocking went in between the beams to lock it all together, strengthen the structure, and keep the beams squared up.

Mast partners and some framing went in to outline the cabin opening and what will be the main access hatch. Then the cabin trunk was made from some 1/8" plywood I had from the unused battery box I originally made for Constellation. The is actually the inner sleeve that the cabin trunk lid will slide onto like a box lid.

The cardboard deck template was re-cut to the new deck position and traced onto the luan plywood. It was cut on the bandsaw and some fine shaping done with a block plane and a file.

To allow it to take the deck camber, I'm going to try to cut saw kerfs in the underside instead of cutting completely through like I did with Constellation's subdeck. If that won't allow it to take the camber and sheer combined, I'll go ahead and cut it through.
Apr 16, 2012, 06:45 PM
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The sub deck has to bend to the hull's sheer at the same time it has to bend to the decks camber. Bending in two directions isn't something plywood does well, so encourage it, I cut saw kerfs in the underside of the subdeck.

I loaded a 7" circular saw blade onto the table saw to get the narrowest kerf I could, then ran the deck through cutting a kerf down the centerline about 3/4 the thickness of the plywood. I then set up a jig with a wood strip that would ride in the notch just cut to make another cut 1-1/2" over and parallel to the first. I wound up with 9 cuts the length of the plywood sub-deck - which allowed it to bend to the deck camber much more easily.
Apr 18, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Great words and photos thanks, Jerry.
Apr 18, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Thank you Brooks. I didn't think anyone was watching any longer.

To earn a little money, I had to make a folding camp table based on a drawing in the Prairie Traveler; and design a shooting cart (a folding hand truck with a gun rack) for someone that likes going to the range and, well, shooting - both items have to be done by Friday. The table's done but for paint, the cart's still just a sketch; albeit a measured one now.

In between I marked up the spar plan with 1:20 scale measurements and made the mounting plate for the motor. Now I need a to get, or make, a stuffing box, shaft, and prop.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Apr 19, 2012 at 07:25 AM.
Apr 19, 2012, 10:37 AM
Registered User
have to admit the forum is getting a bit skimpy....wonder what happened to lucc, and i miss thunderballs (disabled), wonder if he found his, i don't miss a day watching the growth of these exciting models. nice idea regarding the motor and mount, and i'm picking up ideas for a build in my next many others here i'm sure, i enjoy watching your detailed documentation, so don't stop .....any luck with more permanent work?
Apr 19, 2012, 05:25 PM
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Nothing in the job department. It won't be long before I have to relocate the Damn Yankee Workshop unless something comes along to change the situation.

Anyway - while working on this shooting cart, I kept seeing Pride sitting there and snuck off to do something. So I put on the rail that tops the timberheads, or, more correctly, half of it.

The cap timber installed only covers the planking. Another piece will get laminated inside of it and bring it to it's full width once I've installed the timber heads inside the bulwarks - which go on after the sub-deck is installed. etc etc etc.

This rail was predrilled at the drill-press, and the bulwark drilled through those holes with a Dremel. The rail was glued to the tops of the bulwarks and the round toothpicks, cut into thirds, were glued up and tapped into the holes.

After the glue dried the excess toothpick was snipped off with flush cut nippers and everything sanded smooth. I then painted the outside edge with two coats of flat black.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Apr 19, 2012 at 05:31 PM.
Apr 21, 2012, 09:05 AM
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Pride's decks were very dark, even when she was brand new, so I tried staining the 1/16" bass sheet with gray, but that was too gray, so I went over it with some golden oak which was better. I then tried using the oak first, and then the gray and I liked that better.

The bass will get stained and cut into 1/4" strips about 12" long (20' in 1:20 scale). Mixing the strips from different sheets should make for a decent looking deck.

I continued framing the access hatch. When the framing is complete, the beams will be cut to allow that section to be removed without loosing it's shape.

When the subdeck goes on, everything will get a coat of epoxy; beams, underside of the deck, etc. I expect the model will be as wet as the actual boat was, so the deck will be sealed as tight as I can get it.
Apr 21, 2012, 10:19 AM
Registered User
gee you must spend half your time building and half documenting ...sure it will look fine, but i thought the grain on the planking quite large for scale, but maybe it's just the photo....?...never thought of combining stains like that..

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