Pride of Baltimore (the first one) c.1981 - Page 14 - RC Groups
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Jun 28, 2012, 07:13 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Sew, I have bolt ropes on the Main, which you knew, and now the fores'l and forestays'l. I'll just be starting the jib today.
I tried making a video of a section of bolt-rope getting sewn, but the angle was bad and every time my hand went by, the camera would refocus, so it was mostly a blur.

I pulled all the reef-points off the main and I'm replacing them with the .0312" oyster Dacron line which is smaller and looks much better.

I've been spinning like a spider making up line. Pride standing rigging was all wire, so it's all smaller diameter than it would have been had it been rope.

The shrouds, fore-stays, and bob-stays will be of the .0625" (4 thread) line.
The topmast shrouds, stays, bowsprit rigging and the rest of the standing rigging, including foot-ropes, etc, will be of the .05" line.
The running rigging will be of the oyster colored stuff in .05" and .0312"

I installed the foot ropes and horses on the tops'l yard. These lines should really be served, but I didn't. I need to rig up a jig for serving. The lower portions of shrouds, strops, and other stuff are wormed, parceled, and served. I don't know that I need to make a machine, but I'll probably make a mini serving mallet and do it the old fashioned way.

I did replace the bit of tubing for the main clew iron with a bit of rod bent into a figure-8 and soldered. That will be much stronger and looks more like the real one. I blacken it and it looked really nice two days ago, but when I picked it up today to take a picture most of the blackening wiped right off. Never saw that before. Oh well, I'll clean it up and try again.

The next thing is making blocks. I need a few with sheaves for the working lines, but I need a boat-load of shells without sheaves for "less-worked" lines.
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Jun 30, 2012, 09:06 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Only two sails left to bolt-rope; main tops'l and flying jib.

It was over 100 yesterday until a squall-line blew through near 11pm with gusts clocked over 80 miles-per-hour. A lot of folks lost, and still don't have power. They're estimating 3-8 days to get power restored for those folks - I was fortunate, a couple of limbs came off the poplar and fell between the house and CaptMSR's skiff in front of the shop - but didn't hit anything. Didn't loose power and TV reception actually got better (I don't have cable).

I have AC in the shop, but decided to bring the boat in the house and hang the finished sails on it. I even strung up the mast hoops.

I've got something of a deadline to meet now. I was invited Thursday to display Pride publicly:
We'd like you to display your model of Pride at a publicity event here in Fell's Point on July 22. We are promoting the Fell's Point Visitor Center as the go-to place to learn the untold story of the shipwrights and the privateers.
July 22 is the anniversary of the first 7 letter of marque vessels to sail out of Fell's Point. We are just now working out the details, which might include participation of other RC boat builders, a cannon salute, and interpretation.
WE hope for news coverage if we can make it seem like a real event!
They also plan to have an exhibit for the local chapter of the American Model Yacht Association. Should be interesting, and if not, Fells Point is full of bars.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Jul 01, 2012 at 08:56 AM.
Jul 01, 2012, 11:08 PM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
Even if you don't finish before the event, I am sure people would still like to see your beautiful ship.

Speaking as a modeler, an unfinished boat can be even more interesting&approachable than the completed one. If you are present during the event, I bet you would get more questions than if she were complete. That is, a model can be so overwhelming that one hesitates to ask "dumb" questions, but if the model is not yet finished, it sort of gives "permission" to go ahead and ask away :-).
Jul 02, 2012, 07:33 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thank you Brooks.
I will be there, and figured I'd be getting a lot of opportunities to repeat the same story, so I've started making up a hand-out explaining as much as possible, a few pics, and the website link. I'll obviously have questions to answer, but I won't have to run through the whole song & dance every time.

At any rate, another weekend has come and gone. It seems weekends are when I get things done for other folks. We did have a wicked storm blow through here Friday night that clocked a few 80+ mph gusts and took a couple of limbs off the poplar in my yard which just missed CaptMSR's skiff. A whole lot of people are without power and not expected to get it back till mid week or so. I was lucky this time and didn't loose power.

I did get started on block making. I made a dozen 1/2" long and a dozen 3/8" long dummy single blocks to start. I need to shape them more and will probably make a sanding can to get them the way I want. Nick Benton's Rigging Gang made all the period style blocks for Pride and though Nick's not around any more, I can see him shaking his head at these as they are.

The working blocks will be made basically the same way, except with brass sheaves. I'll need some smaller ones, and a few doubles in both sizes too. I don't think there's any triples in the rig. I also need to make a few 3/8" and smaller blocks in a more modern, steel-strop style - thinking about them, I think they'll be harder to make but I don't need any versions of those with sheaves.


A preliminary list of blocks needed comes to:

27 1/2" blocks (2 w/working sheaves)
6 1/2" doubles (1 w/working sheaves)
10 3/8" blocks (8 w/working sheaves)
27 1/4" blocks (14 of which are the fores'l brails alone.)
10+ small blocks for flag halyards and such.

80+ in all.

There's a few modern blocks in the rig. One pair of doubles is the main boom preventer tackle.- I haven't figured out what the others are though - more photo recon to do.
Last edited by JerryTodd; May 27, 2014 at 01:28 PM.
Jul 03, 2012, 08:59 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Shaped and sanded the first batch of blocks. I made a sanding tumbler by putting a sheet of sand paper in a cake icing plastic can after putting a bolt through the center of it's bottom. Mounted in a drill, I zip-tied the trigger to make it go as fast as it could and the blocks still tumble. I left this running as I worked on a serving machine.

The serving machine is based on a 1/4" aluminum rod I had laying about, and some plastic gears I had. The idea is as the rod is turned it's gears turn the gears on two portions of brass tube. The line to be serviced is threaded through these tubes and wedged in so it turns with the tubes. The rod turns and in turn, turns the line at both ends.
A spool of the thread that will serve the line feeds onto the line as it turns, wrapping it nice and tight. As a section is done, the wedges can be pulled and the line moved along through the tubes putting the unserviced portion on the machine - so any length of line can be served.

I intend to hand crank this thing - it shouldn't go very fast. What you see in the pics will be mounted on a base board that will have a place for the thread supply and something to keep proper tension.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Jul 05, 2012 at 08:00 AM.
Jul 06, 2012, 07:49 AM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar
Haven't looked at this thread for a long time - really have been away from the hobby too long and want to get back....
All your detail work and the methods and skills you are posting are awesome.
Your block method is great.
You should do a "how-to" book.
Congrats on the show invitation - your work will amaze and please many people.
Jul 06, 2012, 11:40 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thank you Dan. It looks ok to me till I take a photo of it and see what crap it really looks like.

I made 4 1/2" sized double blocks for the throat halyards. I forgot to take the camera out into the oven, I mean shop, but basically the set up is the same except this time I spent more time shaping them on the stick which made them a lot easier to finish up after they're cut off.

The dividers and dowel slices were glued to both sides and a 1/32" bass sheet strip is glued in between - ta-da! double blocks. I need one more of these only with working sheaves for the main sheet. She didn't have jeers, so I won't need a block there, she only had a sling, and that was replaced with chain just before she left for Europe.

The other working blocks are for the braces. They're all 3/8" singles and I'll need 8 of those.
Jul 10, 2012, 11:14 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Plugging along trying to get the model displayable on the 22nd.
Jul 14, 2012, 12:52 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
All the sails are complete. No more sewing, on this model. The main tops'l is lashed to it's jack yard, all the heads'ls have their halyard blocks attached.

I was looking through the sheaves I have from RB to start making brace blocks and main sheet blocks, and came across some belaying pins I got for Constellation, but were too big - looks like they're perfect for Pride.
Jul 14, 2012, 10:05 AM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
Looks great, your hard sewing work shows :-)

How are you rc-ing the foresail's loose foot? On my Aldebaran, I didn't, just let it assume a shape with loose clew riding on a loose thread "traveler". The Tyvec does not bag too much in light airs, and the ship works to windward fine in everything but knockdown weather.
Jul 14, 2012, 11:39 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
I've kind-a put the RC side on a back burner till after this visitor's center gig.

Taran posted a neat idea in the Schooner Mariette thread at #85 that has a lot of potential, and CaptMSR and I played with it a little trying to make it work - but the length of sheet it will pull and the amount of effort the servo arm require to start against the side arms are two problems we didn't figure out yet. That was actually why I jumped on getting the sails made so I could rig the model up and test this out in real time.

The other idea is simply a sheet that runs through the clew with the clew between two stoppers on the sheet - I think this is what you're referring to? In conjunction with the clothesline set-up posted a few pages back - this looks like the simplest and most reliable idea that I can use on all the overlappers and even the running stays (with the sliding knots under the deck).
Last edited by JerryTodd; Jul 14, 2012 at 11:59 AM.
Jul 16, 2012, 11:07 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Well, the visitor's center gig is a bust. They changed the day and I can't make the new day. So it's back to business as usual.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Aug 10, 2012 at 07:46 PM.
Aug 11, 2012, 09:57 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
I've only dabbled at the model in the last couple of weeks. Made some small blocks and fair-leads. The fair-leads were attached to the square tops'l for the bunt-lines and leech-lines.

I tried turning gun to use as a plug to mold the rest. I wish I had more boxwood as that worked so well for the carronade, but I don't, so first I tried in pine.

The first two tries broke on the lathe, the third one didn't come out too badly.

Next I tried cherry which worked easier than the pine, but the pine actually looks a little better.

I have some maple which I'll try next, after I sharpen up the tools a bit.
Aug 11, 2012, 11:46 AM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
I like your cannons, the pine especially. Will you line your castings for black powder blank shooting? Stainless steel tubing is available at our local hardware, though it's expensive.

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