Very nice!

Thought I'd just leave this here...

Hype Cessna TTX - Best plane EVER! (2 min 4 sec)

Originally Posted by Corvalis

Thought I'd just leave this here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcqrebRomtg

Very nice! I agree with the statement in the video...'my favorite airplane.' Can't wait to rebuild mine. It will take a whole new fuse to make that happen, but that's okay. The current state of my Corvalis...

Has anyone replaced just the nose wheel and wheel pant assembly? If so how is this done? Was training someone with mine and it smack the nose wheel on landing and broke the wheel pant off. I ordered another set of wheels and pants and can't figure out how it goes on. It looks like the but should be inside the wheel pant

Check some of the earlier posts. It was covered a while back.

Originally Posted by Fravits

Check some of the earlier posts. It was covered a while back.

Ill try and looked through this big thread tomorrow. Did a quick search and still a lot to look for.

I am just replacing the nose wheel and wheel pant itself and not the strut.

I had to do this repair about a year ago. You have to carve out a large piece of foam from the bottom. You can then unscrew the nose wheel mechanism and replace it. If you cleanly cut the foam, you can just glue it back and it is barely noticeable.

You can also separate the bottom half of the front end from the frame. This gives you lots of room to work. Again, it can be easily glued back in place after the nose wheel is replaced.

Agree with tmulligan. I did the same thing, but before I did the cutting of the foam, I covered the area around the strut with plastic wrap, built a balsa dam around the area I was cutting out, and filled it with Bondo (Automotive body filler). I lifted this off and cut out the foam (as small an area as possible) and screwed in the new strut assembly. when finished, the space I had opened up was not objectionable and made for easy maintenance. Still, I wanted it to look as nice as possible, so I took the hardened Bondo form I had made, waxed it throughly (as a release agent) and covered the form with two layers 1/2 ounce fiberglass cloth, coated with Minwax Water Based Poly Urethane. A single layer of 3/4 ounce cloth would do, but I was using what was on hand. The cover was removed from the form, trimmed, painted white, and slipped over the strut and held against the fuselage with a couple of cabs of silicone sealer. Looked great and was easy to remove, if needed. Sounds like a lot of work, but it was pretty easy (made it up as I went along) in the end and gave me a new skill that I will be able to use on something else. Hope this helps. I forgot how long it takes to reread all those pages.

Originally Posted by tmulligan

I had to do this repair about a year ago. You have to carve out a large piece of foam from the bottom. You can then unscrew the nose wheel mechanism and replace it. If you cleanly cut the foam, you can just glue it back and it is barely noticeable.

You can also separate the bottom half of the front end from the frame. This gives you lots of room to work. Again, it can be easily glued back in place after the nose wheel is replaced.

Hmmm so to just replace the wheel and wheel pant I have to do that? My actual metal gear is fine. I just ordered a new set of wheels and wheel pants.

If the steering works and the strut action is OK then just replace the pant and the wheel. While fixing this issue you might also check (don't ask how I know) the condition of the steering arm at the top of the strut. It is plastic and can crack and break. The easy fix is to take a nylon servo arm, trim it to fit the shaft and bolt it on. Far more durable than the stock item.

Has anyone tried the 8X6 3 Blade props from a Grand Cruiser on the Corvalis? Any comments on if it would work with the Corvalis motor?

Post #967 mentions the Dynam 8x6 as working with the Corvalis. Needless to say, you'd need the spinner from the Grand Cruiser, also. Haven't tried it yet myself, but it is on the list. That post also includes info for a stonger motor and metal motor mount. I have never felt more power was needed, but the three blade prop is nice and scale looking.

I maidened mine two weeks ago and it went great, using a Lemon stabilization Rx, 1300 3 cell worked well. Flew off hard dirt and tracked well.

Anyone know what kind of battery adapter I need to use my EC3 eflite batteries on a corvalis?

Originally Posted by superdow

Anyone know what kind of battery adapter I need to use my EC3 eflite batteries on a corvalis?

If you own a Corvalis, what battery connector is on the ESC? Obviously, if it's an EC3, you're good to go. If it's something else (Deans Ultra), you can either:

- buy an inline adapter (see photo) to convert from Deans Ultra to EC3

- remove the Deans Ultra and solder on an EC3.

If you don't own one and you are planning to buy, I believe the stock model uses a Deans Ultra (male) connector. If you're buying a used plane, ask the previous owner what battery adapter is installed on the ESC.