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Feb 06, 2011, 10:17 AM
Flying low is expensive.
pdiddyg40's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamu
Well I have been slowly but surely putting it back together. I have no idea if it will fly right (not that it really ever did). The yellow glue seams look horrible, the parts don't really line up at the seams naturally any more (tape is holding it into shape), it looks like the tailplane is slightly out of alignment once again, the wings don't seem to be mirror images, I don't even know if I have the correct thrust angle because of the motor pod coming off. I have lost every bit of confidence I had left in this model.

I am not going to be at all nervous flying it next time I take it out because I don't care if it survives.
That has got to be the worst outlook on an EZ I've ever come across, its kind of depressing I think that if I were in your position and would still like to pursue the EZ, I'd prolly strip it, toss the airframe and buy a new kit. Good luck with the flight anyway

-P.D.
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Feb 06, 2011, 01:08 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenupy
sotog, if you already have that i will buy it from you...

But now, i have to work with what i have...

Iv already say the spec of the motor and the propose of this building.

I can reduce the weight in half and maintain the same power (in my calculations)

The weight of the standard permax 400 and X-16 esc.



The weight of my setup


the adapter, a simple medicine bottle cap. with a center hole and three screws holding the motor.







The looks in the ez*



Now, i need to hold that adaptor to ez*, i really dont know how. Hot glue and some sort of inside holder.


What do you guys think?

Should this work?

Clean work?


keep going with my setup, with the medicine bottle cap.

I hot glue the entire compartment just to give it some strenght. Then i use the same hot glue around the cap to fix it to the fuse.

Then i pass a little white tape around just to secure the thing and reduce drag.

The most problamatic thing is passing the three wires in the center of the fuse. I pass a zip tie, then i pull the thing out... like 45 min to do this...

this is the result:




This is my first mod ever... so i guess it is ok.

Then i need to change the power setup.

Like jurgen and nightrunner say before, i use one 2s2p 2000mah, and some more dead weight to keep the balance, now i will use 3s1p2200mAh.

Old setup:




New setup:



I guess the difference will improve the balance and the power. But a little heavier than i expected.



Related to power I have around 25W middle stick and 70W full power.

Now, do you will hear in the movie a stange variation in sound and power when i go full throttle? can someone now what it is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSSRPqUKIxc


And i am worried about the 20A ESC/BEC, it is hot when full power is needed, im thinking put the esc outside the fuse, somewhere... What do you guys think?
Feb 06, 2011, 01:45 PM
Team Daedalus
Wolveslayr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamu
Well I have been slowly but surely putting it back together. I have no idea if it will fly right (not that it really ever did). The yellow glue seams look horrible, the parts don't really line up at the seams naturally any more (tape is holding it into shape), it looks like the tailplane is slightly out of alignment once again, the wings don't seem to be mirror images, I don't even know if I have the correct thrust angle because of the motor pod coming off. I have lost every bit of confidence I had left in this model.

I am not going to be at all nervous flying it next time I take it out because I don't care if it survives.
That may be what makes it fly. lol

If you think the tail may be slanted left or right, cut through the boom rotate and re-glue.
Feb 06, 2011, 01:51 PM
Team Daedalus
Wolveslayr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenupy
keep going with my setup, with the medicine bottle cap.






Related to power I have around 25W middle stick and 70W full power.

Now, do you will hear in the movie a stange variation in sound and power when i go full throttle? can someone now what it is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSSRPqUKIxc


And i am worried about the 20A ESC/BEC, it is hot when full power is needed, im thinking put the esc outside the fuse, somewhere... What do you guys think?

The sound may be your prop slipping or the motors bearings. Can you get oil to them?
Feb 06, 2011, 02:08 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamu
I have no idea if it will fly right....the tailplane is slightly out of alignment....wings don't seem to be mirror images, I don't even know if I have the correct thrust angle...... I have lost every bit of confidence I had left in this model. I am not going to be at all nervous flying it next time I take it out because I don't care if it survives.
That sounds like a cue for it to fly better than ever before, leaving you and others totally without explanation for the improvement!!

I say this because as an impatient twelve year old, I built a Veron rubber powered Tiger Moth with baggy tissue, not one equal rigging angle, wobbly top wing and a prop which flapped about like b*ggery due to my inability to bend a prop shaft accurately - and it had the longest, flattest glide of anything I had built before or since!
Feb 06, 2011, 02:10 PM
Registered User

Proper cg


I've heard proper CG for the EZ is what Multiplex states in the manual, or 3" back from the leading edge. (mm converted to inches). Chellie and others have said it should be 25% of the way back from the leading edge. With the EZ, that would be 2". I know the real answer is whatever works, but I am curious because I had to add velcro aft of the piece they had to balance at 3" CG.
Feb 06, 2011, 02:10 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinhines
And what are the names of your two cats?
Ar$eface and Piggywink
Feb 06, 2011, 02:10 PM
If I yell "look out" I mean it
gpierson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenupy

And i am worried about the 20A ESC/BEC, it is hot when full power is needed, im thinking put the esc outside the fuse, somewhere... What do you guys think?
I'm curious, I see what I think is the receiver and your ESC. The wires from the motor to the ESC look very small. You didn't cut the wires coming out of your motor, right?! If not, that's good!

In any case, if I see what I think I see (the wire gauge between your motor and ESC) its too small.
Feb 06, 2011, 03:06 PM
I think it'll work this time!!
Chairwolf's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamu
Well I have been slowly but surely putting it back together. I have no idea if it will fly right (not that it really ever did). The yellow glue seams look horrible, the parts don't really line up at the seams naturally any more (tape is holding it into shape), it looks like the tailplane is slightly out of alignment once again, the wings don't seem to be mirror images, I don't even know if I have the correct thrust angle because of the motor pod coming off. I have lost every bit of confidence I had left in this model.

I am not going to be at all nervous flying it next time I take it out because I don't care if it survives.
That's when the fun starts. Give it a try and let us know how it goes!

Bob
Feb 06, 2011, 03:11 PM
I think it'll work this time!!
Chairwolf's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenupy
keep going with my setup, with the medicine bottle cap.

I hot glue the entire compartment just to give it some strenght. Then i use the same hot glue around the cap to fix it to the fuse.


And i am worried about the 20A ESC/BEC, it is hot when full power is needed, im thinking put the esc outside the fuse, somewhere... What do you guys think?
Zenupy,

Hot glue is not the glue of choice around the motor. Obviously, that area can get hot and melt the glue. It has happened to others on this thread in years gone by.

Check your set-up, and if the motor is being held in by hot glue, you may want to get a heat source (soldering iron or hot knife) and carefully unglue the motor, remove the hot glue and use something else.

I know you asked for suggestions, and I don't recall seeing any, so I apologize for this coming in after the fact, but I thought I'd better warn you about the glue.

Bob

edit - that crunchy sound might be loose magnets in your motor. AJ has had that experience and can tell you how to fix it.

b
Feb 06, 2011, 03:53 PM
Registered User
thank you chairwolf...

It is possible, i forget about that...

i send you a photo of the ESC<->Motor connection.



This is a small motor and a small esc. I guess i dont need big connection and wires. This is a servo wire and connector (the same as used in one other parkflier cessna).

Regard to the hotglue, i think you have right about it. I will use something else, dont know yet what...
Feb 06, 2011, 05:07 PM
Flying low is expensive.
pdiddyg40's Avatar
I learned that You should never make wires smaller as you progress in a power system. Theroetically, you find a motor, and the wires from the ESC to motor shouldnt be smaller than the motor wires. Then the battery wires shouldnt be smaller than the ESC or motor wires. This will prevent the current from being stifled or choked and you may get more out of that system
Feb 06, 2011, 05:34 PM
sotog's Avatar
Yes, as far as the wires, what pdiddyg40 said.

What you will notice if you have too small of wire and you are choking the system is that the voltage will drop.

Make sure the motor wires are the same or larger when extended to the ESC. The ESC may have larger wires on it, but that is OK since you are only going to use as much power as the motor needs. But keep the battery wires the same as the battery. This is also a good safety rule. You don't want to overheat the wires and melt them. Could be bad!
Feb 06, 2011, 05:35 PM
I think it'll work this time!!
Chairwolf's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenupy
thank you chairwolf...

It is possible, i forget about that...

i send you a photo of the ESC<->Motor connection.



This is a small motor and a small esc. I guess i dont need big connection and wires. This is a servo wire and connector (the same as used in one other parkflier cessna).

Regard to the hotglue, i think you have right about it. I will use something else, dont know yet what...
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdiddyg40
I learned that You should never make wires smaller as you progress in a power system. Theroetically, you find a motor, and the wires from the ESC to motor shouldnt be smaller than the motor wires. Then the battery wires shouldnt be smaller than the ESC or motor wires. This will prevent the current from being stifled or choked and you may get more out of that system
Xenupy,

Those servo wires on your esc will probably melt when you fly that motor. What you have there is a FUSE. Think of those "buss" fuses - the little thin wire in the tube of glass. The reason the fuse blows is because the wire in the fuse is thinner than the wire in the rest of the circuit. The smallest wire provides more resistance, and therefore heats up. Think of the wires as pipes or hoses. Lots of water trying to get through a big pipe, and then you put a little garden hose in there between 2 big pipes. The pressure builds, and the hose blows. That's what those little wires are like.

I usually use 14 guage wire when working with the battery and esc. You can get it at your local auto parts store, where the trailer hitch lights and stuff are sold.

Please change those out before you fly!

Bob
Feb 06, 2011, 06:58 PM
Flying low is expensive.
pdiddyg40's Avatar
I really liked the comparison to a fuse, thats a great way to think about it. Those servo wires are really only made to handle enough current for servos (less than an amp). Pushing more than that through them would only be asking for trouble.


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