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Aug 15, 2011, 08:53 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Thanks Brooks and Kotori for all the great info. Wished I'd flushed out my Futaba R617FS receiver with some alcohol right after it happened now.

The LED light won't come on and it doesn't seem to receive a signal. It looks bone dry and unobstructed inside, so I'm not sure what more I can do now. A replacement will cost $70.00.

When I turn the battery on the receiver still sends a brief electrical surge to all three servos, which turns them briefly like before. So good news is I think the servos still work. Guess I don't have a way to check fully until I get a working receiver.

Now I'll need to figure out how the water got inside the hull. I'm not sure if it was just through the scuppers onto the deck, or if there's a leak now between the hull and the deck support, or somewhere else. Then I'll need to figure out how to better waterproof the deck's access panels, and then how to make a better waterproof box, and maybe install a small bilge pump...

When I think of all the hours that's going to take...

I'm getting real tempted to go buy a ready-to-run model sailboat so I can get more hours actually sailing SOMETHING on the water this summer while the Beagle's being worked on. I just joined Indy Admirals (our local r/c club) so it will give me something to do with them. The two main classes they do is the AMYA One Meter class and V-32 class sailboats.

Anyone got a favorite of those two?
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Aug 16, 2011, 02:51 AM
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tbarjohn's Avatar
Jpop, did you try to rebind the RX? if you do need a new RX, hobby King has the orange 8 channel RX for Fataba FASST for $27.99, I'm using there orange for Spektrum, it works great.
John R.
Aug 16, 2011, 01:37 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Thanks tbarjohn for the link. I took a look at it and might go for that.

Anyway, here is a better picture of the Beagle on her third sail.

Aug 16, 2011, 02:26 PM
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kotori87's Avatar
Sailing a yacht is very different from sailing a square-rigger. They point so well and move so easily it's like turning on a cheat code, and the controls are different too. It's not the same, but any ship is better than no ship. And if you pick a yacht of the right size, it'll make a good companion for the Beagle once you get her running again.

I agree with John, try to re-bind your receiver first. That's one of the most common water-caused problems I've encountered with 2.4ghz receivers, and it sometimes happens even if you flush with alcohol or corrosion-X. Odds are your servos are OK, too, but don't assume. If the re-binding fails and you need to order a replacement receiver, you should probably order some spare servos, too. It's a good idea to have spares on hand, even if you don't use them immediately.

I think a bilge pump would do wonders for your ship's survival. Something like this:
or these:
would work well. You can also make your own using PVC pipe fittings, a cheap surplus motor, a copper penny, and a few bits of brass. I'll see if I can dig up the instructions for that.
A bilge pump won't fix any leaks your ship has, but it'll keep it afloat despite them. Unless you get run over by a large-scale speedboat, a small or micro bilge pump should suit your needs just fine.
Aug 17, 2011, 10:05 AM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
I tried to re-bind the receiver with no luck. The LED light came on every time the battery was plugged in before, so I guess its toast for now. Maybe one of the members of Indy Admirals can fix it in the future.

I put the Beagle in the bathtub and leaned her heavily in every direction. Good news: no leaks. That REALLY made me happy.

It looks like all the water just came in through the scupper hole at her midsection while she was heeling, which then leaked down through the deck's access panels into the hull. Since it was the heaviest wind she's encountered, it makes sense.

So the plan will be to plug up the scuppers. Any water getting on her deck will have to jump the 3 1/2 inches from the waterline over her bulwarks.

The next step will be to install a bilge pump just behind the foremast. I'll run the hose up to the forecastle and connect it to a metal tube to simulate a signal gun.

So my next questions is: can any of these pumps stay continually submerged without going bad, even the one's sold for r/c combat?

I could see drilling a hole through my 2 inch wide bottom keel and installing another pump horizontally through it, and then connect that hose to the same metal tube on the forecastle. So the signal gun would work double duty: as a bilge pump outlet and as a dedicated water cannon similar to Brook's awesome vacutug.
Last edited by Jpop Andrew; Aug 18, 2011 at 08:27 AM.
Aug 18, 2011, 01:07 AM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Thanks again for the links Kotori. I like the fact that the "Ram Bilge Pump Boat Saver" warns you if there is water in the hull, and will still work even if your on-board power stops. That would have probably gotten my Beagle safely to shore and saved the receiver.
Aug 22, 2011, 04:45 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Cannon Builder Needed

I think I'll take a stab at having a black powder gun for my Beagle.

So for Ray, Dan or whoever might think they could, I'm taking an order for one (or maybe two) working cannons to be mounted on my Beagle's forecastle.

The historical dimensions would be about 1 1/4 inch long for a 6-pdr carronade, or about 2 1/4 inch for a regular 6-pdr cannon. But anything in that range would work.

To my un-knowledgeable eyes it looks like the system you guys use would be a real monster of a learning curve for me: between figuring out the mounting carriage, barrel, breach, igniter, wiring and pre-loadable cartridges. Loading the cartridges with flash paper, black powder, and a backer rod plug is something I can probably figure out. As for making the gun -- right now I'd rather spend that time working on making the Beagle sail better.

So any takers? I'd be happy to cover all costs involved plus a labor fee. Who wants to add "Professional cannon maker" to their resume?
Aug 23, 2011, 02:09 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
While my Beagle is getting her bilge pump, waterproof box and other improvements worked on, I bought a V-32 sailboat from a member of Indy Admirals. After a quick test in the bathtub I took her to the Hourglass Pond on a day with a 10 mph wind. Never sailed a sailboat before, but wow was it a breeze. You just turn the rudder and occasionally tighten or loosen the sails and she zips around with ease.

Now to get my Beagle able to tack and wear as smartly as those amazing square rigger videos you've all posted on YouTube. One day...
Sep 01, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Spar for bottom of courses?

I'm debating if I should add a wooden spar to the bottom of my fore and main course. Right now I'm just using a line to connect the ends of the course together, that's secured to the mast to keep it from blowing too far foreward.

I guess the visual issue is whether losing the curve of the bottom of the course sail is a big deal or not. I'd assume most onlooker would never notice.
Last edited by Jpop Andrew; Sep 01, 2011 at 01:15 PM.
Sep 01, 2011, 08:46 PM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
The spar at the bottom of the course is called a Bentinck boom, after the English captain inventor. It will help your boat sail to windward. You can also stiffen the base of the sail with a piece of wire, which is the method used by DanL and Paratrooper, I believe.

Flat square sails make a better airfoil, so flattening your courses a bit with a spar or wire will make them more effective. Of course, they are not totally flat, but they should be flatter (less camber, to the airplane guys) than those billowing sails so beloved of painters. Billowing sails are great for a run (think modern spinnakers), but are not very good for any other point of sailing.

You can even get better shaped square sails, aerodynamically, if you stiffen the leaches. Boyle accomplished this by sewing in a stiff tableing, but it's probably easier to just put another wire in them. A U shaped wire will both stiffen the leaches and stiffen the foot of a course. I just use the Bentinck booms for my courses since my Tyvek sails already have pretty stiff leaches, compared to cloth sails. The course leaches are also stiffened by my putting a downforce on the Bentinck boom - I hold it down with a rubber band. My booms are not actually mechanically held to the mast; rather, the lead of the rubberband is from the boom down to the foot of the mast. This makes the band exert a downforce and some aft force. Letting the foot of the course have some freedom to float forward of the mast is helpful, particularly for the forecourse. The floating reduces some of the distortion that can occur in the sail when the sails are trimmed for a beat.
Last edited by Brooks; Sep 01, 2011 at 08:52 PM.
Sep 01, 2011, 11:06 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Thanks Brooks. I figured it would help pushing the bow over when trying to tack.

The way I made my Suplex sails was to fold over the edges all around and glue them with Magic Stitch. I might try just putting a 1/8 inch dowel inside the bottom edge before folding it over, so it won't be visible.

Meanwhile I can't decide how to install the bilge pump. I wanted to install it next to the main mast under the deck support, but its too tall. So looks like I'll need to put it between my sail servos, and run the tubing up through the deck behind the forecastle. From there the tube will bend over the bulwark. That won't be very authentic looking though, so I'm having trouble getting myself to do it.
Sep 02, 2011, 06:08 PM
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Brooks's Avatar
Could you use clear tubing, and also drill a hole in the bulwarks, rather than running the tubing over the top of the bulwark?

For all non-scale items, I think about whether they'd be prominent when the ship is 10' offshore...most won't :-)
Sep 02, 2011, 06:28 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar

I've got some 1/4 inch elbow fittings on order so I'll wait a bit more before deciding. I'll probably run the hose over the side next to the 1/2 inch gap where the forecastle rises above the bulwarks. Probably won't be too noticeable. I'll just say it's the oven flue.
Sep 14, 2011, 06:08 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Well just got back from a wonderful nine day vacation in London. Ship-wise, the highlight was the day trip to Portsmouth where we toured the HMS Victory and Warrior, took a fabulous ferry tour of the Royal Navy ships at the harbor, and went through their maritime museums.

I was reading my Horatio Hornblower novel on the way to London and just finished reading the chapter where Hornblower was put in charge of Nelson's funeral barge going up the Thames -- a few days before we saw the pictures and model of it in Portsmouth.

The ship models at the Science Museum were fun. Sad to hear they will be mothballed, but what a sight it would be to see those models waterproofed, ballasted, rigged with r/c and sailed on the Serpentine at Hyde Park together! There were lots of people going through the models while we were there.

As advised, we took a ferry ride on the Thames to Greenwich. The National Maritime Museum was well worth it, especially the model ship room. It was like being a hungry kid in a candy store. It was interesting reading that the giant model of the King George V battleship was made the same time as the original ship. The original ship lasted only 18 years, but the model is still being viewed and appreciated over 70 years later -- including about ten minutes by me.

We never made it to the Imperial War Museum, but did do a few hours at the National Army Museum. How often does someone from Indianapolis get a chance to see Napoleon's favorite horse?

Took tons of pictures of ships, model ships and paintings of ships. Good inspiration it was.
Sep 15, 2011, 04:47 PM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
Neat trip, wish I was there :-)

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