Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I agree. Are you saying you can't get any play back at all, or so slow and choppy as to be useless or too frustrating? That would be strange.

No, it's just "slow" like slowmotion, also sound is same.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

How expensive is "really quite inexpensive"? The case could be modified with a "bubble" at the CMOS assembly to accomodate it's size. I don't think a case modification is much of an expense, given they came out with three different case designs to house the identical #11 Jumbo circuit board.

$9.75

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Have you tried to use your filters on video with different lighting yet? Just curious if your script filter parameters will need to be tweaked.

BTW, there is one side-effect I noticed. In over-exposed areas (like in very bright sky) everything is pure white (255,255,255). So if you subtract the purple hot spot, you will get green effect in that over exposed area (if... it is in the center). So when the over-exposed area moves around the frame, you will notice!

I think I can remedy this by using the current frame as a mask for applying the hot spot filter. Eg. all pixels with value >250 will not be processed. Or something....

Originally Posted by reptor

No, it's just "slow" like slowmotion, also sound is same.

I have 12GB of ram, so that might be part of it, but I just loaded a 4GB .MOV file from the camera with no playback slow down. You might check your preferences to see if the play back is give high priority in your system:

Originally Posted by drzen

$9.75

That's pretty cheap if includes the lens! Subtracting off the cost of the current CMOS/lens from this, it would be a worthwhile improvement. I'd certainly pay the difference if I could get even brightness acorss the video frame like my JAZZ provides (not to mention more stable color hue and white balance).

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I have 12GB of ram, so that might be part of it, but I just loaded a 4GB .MOV file from the camera with no playback slow down. You might check your preferences to see if the play back is give high priority in your system:

All is at "high", I load different movie(.mov) from cam, smallest one have just 100 MB, and still "slowmotion".

Originally Posted by mavlo77

BTW, there is one side-effect I noticed. In over-exposed areas (like in very bright sky) everything is pure white (255,255,255). So if you subtract the purple hot spot, you will get green effect in that over exposed area (if... it is in the center). So when the over-exposed area moves around the frame, you will notice!

I think I can remedy this by using the current frame as a mask for applying the hot spot filter. Eg. all pixels with value >250 will not be processed. Or something....

Yes... bright exposure shows much less of the color in the hot spot as well as much less vignetting. That's why I created three masks... one for bright sunny days, one for dark over cast days, and one for days that are somewhat bright, but with high overcast and not much direct sun.

Originally Posted by reptor

All is at "high", I load different movie(.mov) from cam, smallest one have just 100 MB, and still "slowmotion".

It seems something is dragging down your system performance. You might boot up the Task Manager and look at the Performance tab to see how much of your memory and CPU time is being used, then check the Processes Tab to find out what is doing it. Could be something is running in the background (even virus/security software) causing this.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

It seems something is dragging down your system performance. You might boot up the Task Manager and look at the Performance tab to see how much of your memory and CPU time is being used, then check the Processes Tab to find out what is doing it. Could be something is running in the background (even virus/security software) causing this.

I checked already this,after play button: CPU: about 50-70 %, memory: 55%

I even now try to unistall(x32) and install x64 version, but it's the same.

It' very strange this "lagging", because when I stop and try to forward with this button all is very fast and smooth

Originally Posted by reptor

I checked already this,after play button: CPU: about 50-70 %, memory: 55%

Memory usage looks reasonable... I have 1.93GB in use right now with only Avidemux (playing a video) and IE9 programs running. Background process are using most (1.88GB on my system). BUT, my CPU (a quad core) is running at only 12-13%. What processes are occupying your CPU time to run it up to 50-70%? Playing a video in AViDemux on my system increase it's CPU load to 13% (from only 1% when not playing).

<Edit> I think the control wheel only plays key frames, so it steps through very fast and efficiently not having to decode the P frames <Edit>

Well I have opened at this time also firefox(5 tabs), explorer...

I try even to restart PC and open just avidemux, but it's same CPU: 40-50%), after close it CPU: 3-8%;

Originally Posted by reptor

I even now try to unistall(x32) and install x64 version, but it's the same.

It' very strange this "lagging", because when I stop and try to forward with this button all is very fast and smooth

PM me if further comments... getting too far off topic on myself!

Ok.

Originally Posted by mavlo77

BTW, there is one side-effect I noticed. In over-exposed areas (like in very bright sky) everything is pure white (255,255,255). So if you subtract the purple hot spot, you will get green effect in that over exposed area (if... it is in the center). So when the over-exposed area moves around the frame, you will notice!

I think I can remedy this by using the current frame as a mask for applying the hot spot filter. Eg. all pixels with value >250 will not be processed. Or something....

Hey Mavlo, great work so far. I use two Avisynth commands in my script which i can recommend for a little bit of picture improvement plus they don't need much processing power from your PC it's "mergechroma" to reduce some signal noise in the video and "ColorYuv" for the color levels.

Oh and i added some lines to get a little bit of musik and my intro video in the beginning of the video maybe it will help you out or can give you some new ideas.

some extract of the script:

mergechroma( blur( 1.3 ) )

Levels( 6, 1.000, 248, 0, 255, false )

sat_u = 1.3
cu = ( 1 - sat_u ) * 256

sat_v = 1.1
cv = ( 1 - sat_v ) * 256

video = ColorYUV( cont_u = cu, cont_v = cv )

audio = WavSource( "musik.wav" ).SSRC( video.AudioRate ).Normalize( 1.0 )
stereo = MergeChannels( audio, audio )

mixed = MixAudio( video, stereo, 0.4, 0.6 )
amp = Amplify( mixed, 1 )

AudioDub( video, amp )
video = ChangeFPS( 25 )

intro = DirectShowSource( "E:\Folder\Folder\intro.mov" ).SSRC( lp.AudioRate ).ConvertToYV12()

intro + video

I process my avisynth scripts with MeGui i dont know if it's possible to convert a mov file via avisynth script and virtualdub to a h.264 mp4 container. You know if and how this is possible via avisynth?

Man, I wish they would hurry up and fix the "Remove Time Continuous"
firmware bug.

Already been several weeks, and other firmware versions have been released.



I just don't think we're going to get it.

Still wishing.

Originally Posted by mavlo77

Thanks Tom. So far this is trial and error. Hotspot_RGB is a virtualdub filter, not Avisynth (which is text only programming). I stopped my virtualdub testing when I found that the processing settings do not store pathnames correctly. So this was a show stopper for making automatisch batch processing.
...
Actually in the video I used for testing there are very different lighting situations (before take off in the shade, sun while flying, and grass only with the famous odd whitebalance correction of the camera). In all these situations there was no color spot visible. At least in all the situations the processed video looked better than the original. I will check more video's, and let you know.
...

My goal is to make a script which automatically reads all the MOV files from the camera CF card processes them through Avisynth / VirtualDub and store them in a preset folder as AVI.

Yes, I've used those programs, and knew the hotspot_RGB filter is for VDub, but since avisynth outputs to that editor, adding the hotspot filter is just a couple mouse clicks more. I assumed you would also be doing some final editing with Vdub before saving, so could tweak the filter settings for best results then. But then I never had any trouble with the processing settings being stored incorrectly either!

It was not the hot spot color so much as the degree of vignetting at different light levels that causes the most trouble (for me) with the filters. The one that works well with bright light under compensates at low light, and vice versa. But it could be that I'm too picky!

Anyway, if you can get all that script stream to function for most lighting conditions, BIG KUDOS to you!

Why my "script" file "test.avs" working with "DirectShowSource("PTDC0007.MOV")", but if I add at beggining "bg = DirectShowSource("TESTVID.MOV")", not working


EDIT: is there any picture of good settings for VrtualDub, like at post #3 for AviDemux=?

EDIT2: WHy after I save some short video in virtualdob(save to avi), video then in player "lagging", original is not?

Originally Posted by reptor

Why my "script" file "test.avs" working with "DirectShowSource("PTDC0007.MOV")", but if I add at beggining "bg = DirectShowSource("TESTVID.MOV")", not working

If you use "bg = ...", the input file is assigned to the variable "bg". So there is no output. So you need to call: "return bg".

So you can use statements to generate output directly, or work through variables.

But if your last step is changing the levels, you can also you "abuse" that to generate output directly.

like:
levels(bg, 0,1,255,0,255) (this is not changing the levels BTW...)

With all the problems and things to try and fix and some units that don’t work at all with these inexpensive units from China, is there a better unit made somewhere else? I realize the price would be much higher, but it may be worth it. Does a better built unit for RC videoing exist? Where? How heavy? How much? I am looking for a more user friendly, reliable camera.

Thanks

BPD

Originally Posted by Big Plane dude

With all the problems and things to try and fix and some units that don’t work at all with these inexpensive units from China, is there a better unit made somewhere else? I realize the price would be much higher, but it may be worth it. Does a better built unit for RC videoing exist? Where? How heavy? How much? I am looking for a more user friendly, reliable camera.

Thanks

BPD

This cam is the best for price and weight.

It's a good question though, probably could use a new thread. There are lots of individual threads, but nothing that answers your question just yet. Performance can be better with heavier cams, but they don't fit all planes.

Hi there,

New to the forum and looking for some help with the Jumbo 808#11

I have read the posts on page 1,2 and 3 however this is regarding recording files and they are unplayable. I have tried numerous players. However the programme to recover broken files as on page 2 no longer works.

So am turning to the users \o/

Has anyone had this issue and found a permanent fix? It seems if I record say 1 gig of footage I can play back the file. When I record 3gb + say the files become corrupt. I really want continious footage as it will be recording while I ride etc.

Anyway over to you guys and thanks for reading.

Originally Posted by Big Plane dude

With all the problems and things to try and fix and some units that don’t work at all with these inexpensive units from China, is there a better unit made somewhere else? I realize the price would be much higher, but it may be worth it. Does a better built unit for RC videoing exist? Where? How heavy? How much? I am looking for a more user friendly, reliable camera.

Thanks

BPD

-- retracted --
Mike

Originally Posted by Cruel

Hi there,
I have read the posts on page 1,2 and 3 however this is regarding recording files and they are unplayable. I have tried numerous players. However the programme to recover broken files as on page 2 no longer works.

This is almost always caused by cheap and faulty micro SD cards. I had the same problem with a generic micro SD i got off eBay.. Was usually ok with small files but larger files were almost always corrupt.

I went with a Trenscend class 10 micro SD as recommended in the thread and it's never made a bad video since.

You can test your card with h2testw

Originally Posted by Big Plane dude

With all the problems and things to try and fix and some units that don’t work at all with these inexpensive units from China, is there a better unit made somewhere else? I realize the price would be much higher, but it may be worth it. Does a better built unit for RC videoing exist? Where? How heavy? How much? I am looking for a more user friendly, reliable camera.

Thanks

BPD

I don't think the 'problems' are as bad as you might think...... But yeah; if you cont object to spending five or six times as much you can get a higher quality product. The Flycam one would be the obvious choice: http://www.flycamone.com/

Originally Posted by shoty

...
I process my avisynth scripts with MeGui i dont know if it's possible to convert a mov file via avisynth script and virtualdub to a h.264 mp4 container. You know if and how this is possible via avisynth?

Vdub can convert to H.264 if you provide the codec it can access. FFdshow codec pack used to have both H.264 encoder and decoder, but the latest versions have only the decoder. But you can install the open source x.264VFW codec, and Vdub can then use that to encode back to H.264 compression. But Vdub can only output to an .avi container.

However, there is another way to get what you want. Use the avsproxy utility that comes with AviDemux editor. There's a command line version and a GUI version which can execute the avisynth .avs scripts and frame serve them into AviDemux editor. From there, you can then directly output into an .mp4 container (or others) with it's built in H.264 codec. I use the avsproxy_GUI since it's easier to execute the script you want... select the script with the browse button, then click "Create Proxy" and the script will be executed and opened in the AviDemux editor. The interface looks like this:

Originally Posted by Isoprop

This question has been answered recently.
There's certainly no conversion needed!
Use VLC Media player (viewer) or AviDemux. If it's still jumpy, then it's time for a new, fast, computer or maybe (a big maybe) better graphics card. I take it for granted that you are viewing the video from your hard drive and not via a USB connected reader or camera.

VLC did the trick.

Originally Posted by Randbo39

Try KM player It really improved playback on my ancient XP machine. Much better than VLC media player.

http://kmplayer.en.softonic.com/

Thanks I will look into this one too.

Media player classic home cinema is my player of choice.
It may look a bit Win98 but under the bonnet it is very powerful and configurable. Lots of single-key strokes setup for aspect, audio sync, and other settings....

There is also a remote control for Android, which is a real winner for when I'm lounging in front of the tv!

Originally Posted by Big Plane dude

With all the problems and things to try and fix and some units that don’t work at all with these inexpensive units from China, is there a better unit made somewhere else? I realize the price would be much higher, but it may be worth it. Does a better built unit for RC videoing exist? Where? How heavy? How much? I am looking for a more user friendly, reliable camera.

Thanks

BPD

Try this thread... you'll get lots of suggestions of people's favorites.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Try this thread... you'll get lots of suggestions of people's favorites.

Only issue with that thread is in the title - it excludes all the big, heavy and expensive cams

Originally Posted by reptor

...
EDIT: is there any picture of good settings for VrtualDub, like at post #3 for AviDemux=?

Are you referring to filter settings to improve color, add sharpening, etc? If so try adding first the HSVadjust filter, and reducing the saturation. I prefer saturation at about 70% or so to give more natural looking color and diminish the central "hotspot" color shift. Also, boosting the "value" setting a tiny bit (about 5%) will reveal a little more detail is shadow areas. The hue adjustment would be useful if the camera locked in at one setting, but it shifts from overstated yellow hue in bright light to blue tint in dark, shady areas. This needs to be stabilized in the camera firmware. See the attached screen grab of the filter selection window, accessed via the video/filter menu. Each filter usually has a preview button where you can see how the setting sliders affect the picture. Adjust to your liking. I also add sharpening last... about a 30 setting in Vdub sharpening filter.

Originally Posted by reptor

EDIT2: WHy after I save some short video in virtualdob(save to avi), video then in player "lagging", original is not?

Are you re-encoding when you save the file? What codec? What player are you using?

Originally Posted by victapilot

Only issue with that thread is in the title - it excludes all the big, heavy and expensive cams

Yep... that's why it originated in the parkflyer forum where all of the chintzy, cheap people like me hang out! But some of the better point-n-shoot cameras up to about 5 oz. or so have been discussed there, and I think the GoPro has some discussion there as well as in it's dedicated thread(s)
.

Thanks JetPlane Flyer for the link.

For capturing “still shots” which one of these cameras would be a better choice? They both weigh about the same and offer similar HD (video).

http://www.flycamone.com/

The FlyCamOne HD (1920x 1080px) with 433MHz Remote for professional use - motor powered pivot head, exchangeable lenses, HDMI and countless other features make it unique among the HD Cams. Weight: 90g

Or

The GoPro camera (5 MG) .
http://gopro.com/products/?gclid=CMb...FYXBKgodFBX9zA

Lens Type: Fixed Focus (2ft/.6m – ∞), glass
Aperture: f/2.8 (high performance in low-light situations)
Angle of View: 170º ultra wide angle in WVGA, 720p, or 960p mode
Angle of View: 127º wide angle in 1080p mode
Dimensions (H x W x D): 1.6” x 2.4” x 1.2” (42mm x 60mm x 30mm)
Weight: 3.3oz (94g) incl. battery

Presently I’m using VideoPad Editor

http://www.nchsoftware.com/videopad/index.html

to capture the “stills” from the video taken with the Key Chain camera.

This brief introduction to aerial photography has certainly got my interest.

Thanks

John

Originally Posted by JohnAV8R

...
For capturing “still shots” which one of these cameras would be a better choice? They both weigh about the same and offer similar HD (video).
...
John

I think you'll get more replies if you open a new thread in the AV forum. Also look for video /still samples... big difference in lens AOV, and maybe in still picture quality. You can't tell just from pixel count if the stills are upconverted from smaller capruted images, like the #11 HD does.

I was going for make an aerial video over a lake with one of my rc bird ... using my key cam #11

Actually ... I did sink my bird on the lake on one of the most dummy take off ever.

Incredible ... the key cam did survive without any damage

My 3S Lipo on the bird was almost going to explode ... so I unplug from the bird, and sink in the lake.

So at least was not a total damage .... I rescue the key cam, the aeroplane, the two servos (tested are ok) ... lost the LiPo (5$) ... probably the ESC is dead (did not test) ... the RX is not looking in good shape (I'm waiting it dry out ... but most probably I will not use it anymore) ... motor and propeller should be fine.

A part an unexpected bath in the lake for rescue the bird ... the damage is limited ... 5+6+13$ ... around 22$ ... it could have been worst

Anyhow ... very very impress from the keycam .... actually I took a video and there is no sign of any distortion on the video .... so, the lent and the sensor did not suffer any issue on the sinking

Tchuss

e_lm_70

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Are you referring to filter settings to improve color, add sharpening, etc? If so try adding first the HSVadjust filter, and reducing the saturation. I prefer saturation at about 70% or so to give more natural looking color and diminish the central "hotspot" color shift. Also, boosting the "value" setting a tiny bit (about 5%) will reveal a little more detail is shadow areas. The hue adjustment would be useful if the camera locked in at one setting, but it shifts from overstated yellow hue in bright light to blue tint in dark, shady areas. This needs to be stabilized in the camera firmware. See the attached screen grab of the filter selection window, accessed via the video/filter menu. Each filter usually has a preview button where you can see how the setting sliders affect the picture. Adjust to your liking. I also add sharpening last... about a 30 setting in Vdub sharpening filter.


Are you re-encoding when you save the file? What codec? What player are you using?

Thanks, I copy your settings for HSV filter.


I use Media Player classic, codec which I use is ffdshow. Original .mov file play normally, even after I create .avs file and import some movie into VirtualDub plays normally. But after I want "save as AVI", output .avi file "lagging". I use "full processing mode".

Thanks

Originally Posted by lead foot

VLC did the trick.



Thanks I will look into this one too.

No other player, VLC, Quicktime, WM ect would play without major stuttering. KM player plays direct from cam smooth as butter!

Originally Posted by reptor

Thanks, I copy your settings for HSV filter.


I use Media Player classic, codec which I use is ffdshow. Original .mov file play normally, even after I create .avs file and import some movie into VirtualDub plays normally. But after I want "save as AVI", output .avi file "lagging". I use "full processing mode".

Thanks

When you select ffdshow for compression, click on the configuration button. There you pick what codec you want to use since ffdshow has several to select from. But the later ffdshow versions no longer have h.264 encoding, opting to let users download the x.264vfw codec and use that since it is being updated regularly. See attached sample selector screen shots:

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

I was going for make an aerial video over a lake with one of my rc bird ... using my key cam #11

Actually ... I did sink my bird on the lake on one of the most dummy take off ever.

Incredible ... the key cam did survive without any damage

My 3S Lipo on the bird was almost going to explode ... so I unplug from the bird, and sink in the lake.

So at least was not a total damage .... I rescue the key cam, the aeroplane, the two servos (tested are ok) ... lost the LiPo (5$) ... probably the ESC is dead (did not test) ... the RX is not looking in good shape (I'm waiting it dry out ... but most probably I will not use it anymore) ... motor and propeller should be fine.

A part an unexpected bath in the lake for rescue the bird ... the damage is limited ... 5+6+13$ ... around 22$ ... it could have been worst

Anyhow ... very very impress from the keycam .... actually I took a video and there is no sign of any distortion on the video .... so, the lent and the sensor did not suffer any issue on the sinking

Tchuss

e_lm_70

I've submerged a fixed focus camera (not a #11) once also with no apparent damage or image degradation. I'd have thought water would get inside the lens, (like it did when I dunked my SLR once). But I've totally submerged lipos with no issues in fresh water... usually the ESC is the first to go! Make sure you get all water out of it before powering it up. If there's any chance of dunking, Corrosion X will protect electronics. It's hard to find at stores. Some hardware stores (True Value stores and some boating supply stores carry it here, but probably not in your area.

Wow, @Tom Frank thank you, finally all work, except that .avi file is so much larger than any other format ; Please add this to #3 for all others

A good cure for a fresh water immersion is to remove power as soon as possible. Then immerse each component (motor, receiver, ESC, servos, etc.) in isopropyl alcohol, dunking, rolling and turning it get all water diluted or replaced by alcohol. Then drain each item and let it air dry for at least a day, two days is better. If any water drips out in handling, repeat the process for that piece.

In the end everything that was not damaged by shorts while still under power will be working fine. You'll probably have relubricate the motor bearings and repack the grease in the servo gears but it will be a good savings.

I bought a one gallon jug of boat stove fuel at a marine store and have used it to save power systems several times. The water will settle to the bottom of the alcohol and you can put the the alcohol back in the jug for future uses.

Immersion in salt water brings a much higher level of risk of damage from electrical shorts because salt water is a better conductor of electricity.

Jack

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I've submerged a fixed focus camera (not a #11) once also with no apparent damage or image degradation. I'd have thought water would get inside the lens, (like it did when I dunked my SLR once). But I've totally submerged lipos with no issues in fresh water... usually the ESC is the first to go! Make sure you get all water out of it before powering it up. If there's any chance of dunking, Corrosion X will protect electronics. It's hard to find at stores. Some hardware stores (True Value stores and some boating supply stores carry it here, but probably not in your area.

Originally Posted by jackerbes

A good cure for a fresh water immersion is to remove power as soon as possible. Then immerse each component (motor, receiver, ESC, servos, etc.) in isopropyl alcohol, dunking, rolling and turning it get all water diluted or replaced by alcohol. Then drain each item and let it air dry for at least a day, two days is better. If any water drips out in handling, repeat the process for that piece.

In the end everything that was not damaged by shorts while still under power will be working fine. You'll probably have relubricate the motor bearings and repack the grease in the servo gears but it will be a good savings.

I bought a one gallon jug of boat stove fuel at a marine store and have used it to save power systems several times. The water will settle to the bottom of the alcohol and you can put the the alcohol back in the jug for future uses.

Immersion in salt water brings a much higher level of risk of damage from electrical shorts because salt water is a better conductor of electricity.

Jack

Thanks for the tips

I don't have access to alcohol (only Vodka )
I will just lub the motor bearing

I open (removed the shrink cover) and dried the ESC ... and it was dead. Already recycled the plugs.

I will check the RX with time ... going to use a spare RX for now.

The motor, clearly pass the test without problems.

So tomorrow I can put back on the air my bird , with the HD cam (I was afraid I may have to reuse again the #8 key cam, #11 is miles better)

Tchuss

e_lm_70

Originally Posted by nageotte

I got the #11 and used it three times with good results. I went to use it today and I push the power button, get the yellow light and a short flash. The yellow light then remains on and I push the shutter button, nothing happens. Yellow light remains lit. Now what?

Hi, i just registered me with the hope, i can help you.

Please check, whether the card is full. My #11 shows the same behaviour.
Then i checked the card (Transcend 4 GB) via the explorer and found, that 3,75 GB was used and only 672 KB are free.
So i stored some files to the harddisc and erased them from the card. After this all works fine again.

Therefore i don´t believe that this is a bug as mentioned sometimes. There is just not enough space for the new files. The cam then only allows to switch the modes (with the ON button) but not to take a new picture or video.

By the way:
i crashed one card when i tried to save the big video files to the hd and erase them in the same step as it is possible in the explorer by pushing the shift button during moving the file (no + visible). Therefore i think it is better first to save the files to the hd and then in a second step to erase them from the card.

Kind regards and have a lot of fun with this fine cam

Originally Posted by Big Plane dude

With all the problems and things to try and fix and some units that don’t work at all with these inexpensive units from China, is there a better unit made somewhere else? I realize the price would be much higher, but it may be worth it. Does a better built unit for RC videoing exist? Where? How heavy? How much? I am looking for a more user friendly, reliable camera.

Thanks

BPD

.

I agree. GoProHD would no doubt be more reliable, but a lot bulkier.
It's probably best to buy several #11s & just replace them when they fizz
The GoPro seems to be a great camera, but just too big (relatively). My son skis with an #11 and says he would not wear a GoPro sticking out the side of his helmet.

Kev

Have searched here but apart from noting that Frank has had the same problem I can't see any fixes for the card not locking in. Someone did say they had to go inside to fix it but I would rather steer clear of that.

Putting tape across the back of the card in this case doesn't hold it in

Kev

Originally Posted by Berkie

.

I agree. GoProHD would no doubt be more reliable, but a lot bulkier.
It's probably best to buy several #11s & just replace them when they fizz
The GoPro seems to be a great camera, but just too big (relatively). My son skis with an #11 and says he would not wear a GoPro sticking out the side of his helmet.

Kev

Personally, I find the GoPro video extremely sharp, consistent, and smooth, but in spite of that, almost unwatchable (to me) for aerial video because of the fisheye lens. I hate the way it bends the horizon, making the earth look like it's about 50 miles in diameter when the horizon gets close to the top/bottom of the frame. But for some that doesn't matter. But you need to know what you are getting before buying.

I also don't think the #11s are as unreliable as what you might think reading this thread. Those who have no problems don't post that they have no problems, nor should they!

Originally Posted by Berkie

Have searched here but apart from noting that Frank has had the same problem I can't see any fixes for the card not locking in. Someone did say they had to go inside to fix it but I would rather steer clear of that.

Putting tape across the back of the card in this case doesn't hold it in

Kev

First, make sure you push it all the way in (past the edge of the case). Sometimes it takes that to get it to latch. But if it still doesn't latch, I wrap a piece of fiber-reinforced tape completely around the card and case. That works, and I do that even if the card latches because a crash can dislodge the card and shoot it 10-15 ft. away... LOST! The tape prevents that... cheap insurance against the replacement cost of a good flash memory card.

I would NOT recommend trying to fix the latch! Parts are too tiny and too easily lost when they spring out of the holder trying to fix things!

I've heard this mentioned a couple times within the history of this thread, but never heard any results.

Has anyone ever successfully (or unsuccessfully), modded their cam to fit one of those CCTV board camera lenses?

Or found any lens for that matter that works better than those 13mm .67x lens, and 180 fish eye lens?

IMO the .67x lens causes too much blurriness on the edges, and the 180 lens makes way too much distortion, I really want to find a lens that works better to get a wider FOV without blurring.

Hi,

did someone connect the keycam to a lipo of solo pro ?

I would like to gain weight to lift this cam with a solo pro.

So, connecting the cam to the lipo and removing plastic part seems to be a good idea.

Is it possible ?
Thx

Originally Posted by Big Plane dude

With all the problems and things to try and fix and some units that don’t work at all with these inexpensive units from China, is there a better unit made somewhere else? I realize the price would be much higher, but it may be worth it. Does a better built unit for RC videoing exist? Where? How heavy? How much? I am looking for a more user friendly, reliable camera.

Thanks

BPD

A few readers have, indeed, had problems with their camera recently. All electronic devices can malfunction at some time so there is always the possibility that this can happen. Like in any thread, readers only report when they have problems. I'm sure there are thousands of people who don't even know that this thread exists, simply because they have never had a problem with their camera.
Luckily, readers without problems don't say "Hey my camera works fine, what's all the fuss about" - otherwise this thread would be so large it would not be possible to read!

The sellers have always been most helpful to me. Being in China, is, unfortunately, a handicap when items have to be shipped back for repair. In some countries, the shipping price is almost as high as the device itself. However, this is not the fault of the supplier. It's annoying all the same. The time-factor is also a problem, but, as Tom has already pointed out a couple of times, this can be halved if you are willing to buy a new device and accept a refund when the seller receives the defective device.

A lot of problems are also self-inflicted. For example, the camera can't be expected to perform correctly if the card is full or not inserted, or if you install new firmware and don't wait 20 seconds for the process to complete, or the battery is not fully charged. So many problems have been discussed that are not camera problems.

I know that the seller is aware of the real problems, and I'm sure our long wait will soon be rewarded.

I find the camera reliable and user-friendly.
How can you make a two-button device more user-friendly? I think the main problem is that it is so versatile! Hey, you can use it to take pictures, take movies, use it as a webcam and use it as a card reader! It is a truly amazing device considering it's size. At present, it can't be beat - not for it's size/weight and video quality, not for it's price.

The only thing I personally miss is some indication that it's recording, but that's just me - a "spy" guy would not want this!

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

First, make sure you push it all the way in (past the edge of the case). Sometimes it takes that to get it to latch. But if it still doesn't latch, I wrap a piece of fiber-reinforced tape completely around the card and case. That works, and I do that even if the card latches because a crash can dislodge the card and shoot it 10-15 ft. away... LOST! The tape prevents that... cheap insurance against the replacement cost of a good flash memory card.

I would NOT recommend trying to fix the latch! Parts are too tiny and too easily lost when they spring out of the holder trying to fix things!

Thanks Tom! I'll give that a burl as soon as I get it back from my son who's skiing NZ with it.

Kev

Originally Posted by carl1864

I've heard this mentioned a couple times within the history of this thread, but never heard any results.

Has anyone ever successfully (or unsuccessfully), modded their cam to fit one of those CCTV board camera lenses?

Or found any lens for that matter that works better than those 13mm .67x lens, and 180 fish eye lens?

IMO the .67x lens causes too much blurriness on the edges, and the 180 lens makes way too much distortion, I really want to find a lens that works better to get a wider FOV without blurring.

You never saw any results because the answer to your questions are "No", and "No". A wide angle lens with really good edge sharpness is probably not practical for this camera for many reasons, with cost being just one of them. Also, the lens barrel needs to have a 7mm thread that fits the CMOS module. The CCTV lens are all 12mm, I think. It would take a major hack of the CMOS module to cut off the threaded boss and fit a bigger lens in just the right position AND perfectly perpendicular to the CMOS array to get a sharp image from corner to corner. Those tiny plastic modules that hold the CMOS chip and the lens look pretty cheap, but they are precision molded so that the CMOS chip and lens are in perfect alignment when properly assembled.

Personally, a much wide angle lens that introduces barrel or fisheye distortion doesn't interest me for aerial video use. But we would all benefit from a SLIGHTY wider lens angle of view to reduce the corner/edge vignetting. Just a page or so back there is a post about one of the listed camera vendors advertising the #11 camera with a "75 deg. view" lens. And one has been purchased but not yet received to test it. I have made inquiries to the seller and developer about this to see if that lens is any different from the normal ones we all have. I suspect it is just a different marketing banner for the same camera, but hopefully I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by laurentjeuxlille

Hi,

did someone connect the keycam to a lipo of solo pro ?

I would like to gain weight to lift this cam with a solo pro.

So, connecting the cam to the lipo and removing plastic part seems to be a good idea.

Is it possible ?
Thx

Providing power via an external flight battery has been done and discussed a number of times in this thread by connecting the camera to one of the cells of a 2 or 3 cell lipo via the balancing connector. Does your Solo Pro use a single cell lipo? If so, I would not even attempt this because it would diminish your flight time too much. If your battery is a multi-cell lipo, there's issues in doing this with charging, draining an external cell voltage too low and causing cell damage, causing the external lipo to go out of balance, etc.

<EDIT> I just googled up the Solo Pro specs, and it only has a 120 mAH single cell lipo for power... that's less than 1/2 the size of the camera's internal battery! Forget about doing this. The load on cell would be way too much, probably resulting in neither the heli nor the camera working! And powering both from a larger single cell lipo would add more weight than any savings to be realized from a modification. If your stock heli cannot lift the 17 gms of the small #11, it's not going to be feasible. Have you tried to lift the small #11 camera with your heli? If not, do a test flight with a 17 gm. dead weight to see what happens. <EDIT>

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Personally, I find the GoPro video extremely sharp, consistent, and smooth, but in spite of that, almost unwatchable (to me) for aerial video because of the fisheye lens. I hate the way it bends the horizon, making the earth look like it's about 50 miles in diameter when the horizon gets close to the top/bottom of the frame. But for some that doesn't matter. But you need to know what you are getting before buying.

I also don't think the #11s are as unreliable as what you might think reading this thread. Those who have no problems don't post that they have no problems, nor should they!

I used the ContourGPS camera for a while before finding this thread....and these great keycams. The contour weighs as much as 5 of these cams, but the quality of the video does not justify the extra weight. The contour will also do 1080p video but at that setting it too warps the horizon terribly, and the file size at 1080p is too large to be manageable.

For those reasons, IMHO these #11 keycams are the best devices available today for RC video.

Can these be had from any US stores or do you have to buy them from China resellers on eBay?

Originally Posted by Kamakzie

Can these be had from any US stores or do you have to buy them from China resellers on eBay?

Only from eBay sellers listed in Post #2 (or direct from the wholesale outlet, but it's also in China with same pricing structure, and also only accepts Paypal). The Ebay sellers are reliable and have demonstrated excellent service and support of the product.

Thanks for the response Tom. Was hoping someone in the US could ship them. Overseas shipping takes too long. But I guess if thats the only way possible.

Originally Posted by Kamakzie

Thanks for the response Tom. Was hoping someone in the US could ship them. Overseas shipping takes too long. But I guess if thats the only way possible.

Normal time for a shipment from them to show up here is 7-8 days after they ship, and that is usually the next day after ordering. I have seen some delays in their China Post during times of special holidays or events going on when they tighten security in the mail, but even then a couple of weeks and it's here. So, it's not too bad unless you are in a real hurry to get it.

Here is a portion of a video I shot with the jumbo #11 this past weekend, using the latest long play firmware in very low light conditions, at sunset. There was a partial rainbow (1:35 and 2:36) which the camera picked up very well. I doubt that any autonomous camera can do much better with constant changes in lighting condition found in an RC flight. I have no complaints whatsoever.

Rainbow (3 min 34 sec)

I had to clip out a 3 minute segment for posting to Vimeo due to their size limit, but the full videos, including some really nice sunset shots may be found here on my blog, posted to youtube due to large file sizes.

Originally Posted by JumpySticks

Here is a portion of a video I shot with the jumbo #11 this past weekend, using the latest long play firmware in very low light conditions, at sunset. There was a partial rainbow (1:35 and 2:36) which the camera picked up very well. I doubt that any autonomous camera can do much better with constant changes in lighting condition found in an RC flight. I have no complaints whatsoever.

http://www.vimeo.com/27733799

I had to clip out a 3 minute segment for posting to Vimeo due to their size limit, but the full videos, including some really nice sunset shots may be found here on my blog, posted to youtube due to large file sizes.

Interesting terrain you are flying over there! I agree with you... the exposure, color, focus, and (minimal) vignetting are as good as it gets with the #11 camera... wish mine was as good!

Thanks Tom, I could not be more satisfied.

I sure wish there was a better way to share video files than youtube or vimeo. There is no comparison to viewing the unmodified video on a good television. My Samsung has a usb slot and plays them directly. Playing directly there is no jitter or jumping of frames, and the color balance could not be better. Maybe I did get lucky on the focus because it's very clear even on the big screen tv. For anyone buying a new TV, be sure to check that it has a USB input and that it will play some common form of video file.

PS: Check the blog for a little more info on the terrain.

Originally Posted by JumpySticks

Thanks Tom, I could not be more satisfied.

I sure wish there was a better way to share video files than youtube or vimeo. There is no comparison to viewing the unmodified video on a good television. My Samsung has a usb slot and plays them directly. Playing directly there is no jitter or jumping of frames, and the color balance could not be better. Maybe I did get lucky on the focus because it's very clear even on the big screen tv. For anyone buying a new TV, be sure to check that it has a USB input and that it will play some common form of video file.

PS: Check the blog for a little more info on the terrain.

That's one reason I recommend NOT using YouTube, and using Vimeo instead. It gives viewers the opportunity to download the original file you upload for a period of one week (if you check the toggle giving this permission when you upload). And by switching to full screen view and clicking on the screen button to toggle ""Scaling" OFF, the video is played in the native full 1280x720 frame size. Youtube can't do either of these, plus the resolution is not quite as good either.

When I go to RCG on our iPad, the YouTube videos posted are displayed and are playable same as on PC, but Vimeo postings are a blank box. However if I click on the text in Toms reply, I get the video on the Vimeo site.

So YouTube is the winner for casual browsing on iPad, at least for now

HD key cam is perfect for what we use it for in RC on board and even field videography. I am a proud owner of its predecessors:

5 in 1 EDVR (low resolution and no micro card)
Jazz 178 HDV (5 ounces and two different versions with the same model number)
Gum Camera (not HD)
V3 Key cam

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Providing power via an external flight battery has been done and discussed a number of times in this thread by connecting the camera to one of the cells of a 2 or 3 cell lipo via the balancing connector. Does your Solo Pro use a single cell lipo? If so, I would not even attempt this because it would diminish your flight time too much. If your battery is a multi-cell lipo, there's issues in doing this with charging, draining an external cell voltage too low and causing cell damage, causing the external lipo to go out of balance, etc.

<EDIT> I just googled up the Solo Pro specs, and it only has a 120 mAH single cell lipo for power... that's less than 1/2 the size of the camera's internal battery! Forget about doing this. The load on cell would be way too much, probably resulting in neither the heli nor the camera working! And powering both from a larger single cell lipo would add more weight than any savings to be realized from a modification. If your stock heli cannot lift the 17 gms of the small #11, it's not going to be feasible. Have you tried to lift the small #11 camera with your heli? If not, do a test flight with a 17 gm. dead weight to see what happens. <EDIT>

Right, and thx for answering, going to buy a bigger heli !

I've just used mine for the first time in conjuction with a GoPro HD, the little cam works very well, and considering it's size, preforms very nicely, here is a link to my video post:

HERE

I fitted it to the upper wing centre section to film looking back over the tail, wish I had more of them now!

Matt

FPV Following the convertible (3 min 36 sec)

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FuzTkd4fZ0

Flying over roads like that is taboo in this country. Please do not post videos of this kind of activity in this forum or others in RCGroups... you could be banned for that.

Could cause people to gawk and cause a wreck I take it?

Yes, also very close to private property. You con't expect an unmanned aircraft at a couple of feet from your front door....

Maybe in Mexico it's no problem. But here it's a crime I think!

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Flying over roads like that is taboo in this country. Please do not post videos of this kind of activity in this forum or others in RCGroups... you could be banned for that.

im not in your country

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FuzTkd4fZ0

This is dangerous

Originally Posted by mavlo77

Yes, also very close to private property. You con't expect an unmanned aircraft at a couple of feet from your front door....

Maybe in Mexico it's no problem. But here it's a crime I think!

it is not a problem i had permisin from the police

Originally Posted by reptor

This is dangerous

how many cars did you see 1!?

The new car charger that came with my Jumbo has a full 5V output, not the lower 4.2V of the earlier chargers. I wrote to the developer asking about this... i.e. does the Jumbo camera have any internal circuit components to reduce the voltage before it connects in parallel with the internal battery. Here's his reply:

Thanks for your email.

I'm not sure when you got the smaller #11. At the beginning (a few months), the car charger only delivered 4.2V. But then we increased to 5V for both old version and new version of car charger. The new version is more compact and lighter, we planned to use it for all cameras, including smaller original #11. As far as it's not over 5V, it is still safe according to our testing.

So they are relying on the small voltage bracketing chip integral to the battery to keep it isolated from the damaging high voltage of the car charger. From recent posts, these small battery circuit boards may not be all that accurate in their volatage management, and might be responsible for the short battery life some have seen. Adding a diode to the new small car charger plug looks to be impossible without destroying the plastic case.

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

im not in your country

I knew that, but the company that is hosting your video for free and thousands of people viewing it ARE in this country, where this kind of flying is taboo. We are close to having RC flying in general regulated by our federal government right now, and showing this kind of activity adds fuel to their fire.

Please, no more clips like that one in RC Groups (I see you had posted the same clip link in another thread as well).

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

The new car charger that came with my Jumbo has a full 5V output, not the lower 4.2V of the earlier chargers. I wrote to the developer asking about this... i.e. does the Jumbo camera have any internal circuit components to reduce the voltage before it connects in parallel with the internal battery. Here's his reply:

Thanks for your email.

I'm not sure when you got the smaller #11. At the beginning (a few months), the car charger only delivered 4.2V. But then we increased to 5V for both old version and new version of car charger. The new version is more compact and lighter, we planned to use it for all cameras, including smaller original #11. As far as it's not over 5V, it is still safe according to our testing.

So they are relying on the small voltage bracketing chip integral to the battery to keep it isolated from the damaging high voltage of the car charger. From recent posts, these small battery circuit boards may not be all that accurate in their volatage management, and might be responsible for the short battery life some have seen. Adding a diode to the new small car charger plug looks to be impossible without destroying the plastic case.

My battery was gone after only 6 months. After 1 minute of recording it stopped. The problem is that the recording time slowly went down already from the beginning. So after a couple of months only power for 20 minutes. I have two camera's, both the same issue.

So now I removed the internal battery, and use a single cell external lipo which I charge with my lipo charger only. Much better control over the charging. A 500 mAh is good for at least 1:30hr recording and I put velcro on both sides, so I can use it is as a camera stand (instead a piece of foam).

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I knew that, but the company that is hosting your video for free and thousands of people viewing it ARE in this country, where this kind of flying is taboo. We are close to having RC flying in general regulated by our federal government right now, and showing this kind of activity adds fuel to their fire.

Please, no more clips like that one in RC Groups (I see you had posted the same clip link in another thread as well).

how is a 17 year old kid in mexico going to change anything the us government has bigger problems than rc airplanes...... anyone flying anywhere has the chance of cousing big problems that arent controlable what is my 32 ounce pusher prop flying wing going to do? i have hit myself with my 3 pound 15 ounce zephyr at 60mph in the chest and it just knoked the air out of me i have hit my own windshield at almoast 120 combined speed with no problem and my windshield had a crack in it from when a semi ther up a rock so next time you are on the hightway dont worie about rc planes worie about semis trowing up rocks...

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

how is a 17 year old kid in mexico going to change anything the us government has bigger problems than rc airplanes...... anyone flying anywhere has the chance of cousing big problems that arent controlable what is my 32 ounce pusher prop flying wing going to do? i have hit myself with my 3 pound 15 ounce zephyr at 60mph in the chest and it just knoked the air out of me i have hit my own windshield at almoast 120 combined speed with no problem and my windshield had a crack in it from when a semi ther up a rock so next time you are on the hightway dont worie about rc planes worie about semis trowing up rocks...

You should listen to Mr. Frank. He's not trying to keep you from having fun, rather just attempting to minimize the risk of hurting someone should something go awry. The problem is someone with a larger more powerful plane and little or no flying experience will eventually see your video and try the same thing with less than favorable results.

-John

You tube 720p HD quality is NOT as good as #11 original.
Maybe Vimeo ?

50 m in 1 sec (0 min 42 sec)

Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer

I don't think the 'problems' are as bad as you might think...... But yeah; if you cont object to spending five or six times as much you can get a higher quality product. The Flycam one would be the obvious choice: http://www.flycamone.com/

I went through two Flycamone2's - they both broke for no apparent reason. My KFCs have been more reliable - no problems

Originally Posted by shoty

Hey Mavlo, great work so far. I use two Avisynth commands in my script which i can recommend for a little bit of picture improvement plus they don't need much processing power from your PC it's "mergechroma" to reduce some signal noise in the video and "ColorYuv" for the color levels.

Oh and i added some lines to get a little bit of musik and my intro video in the beginning of the video maybe it will help you out or can give you some new ideas.

some extract of the script:


I process my avisynth scripts with MeGui i dont know if it's possible to convert a mov file via avisynth script and virtualdub to a h.264 mp4 container. You know if and how this is possible via avisynth?

Thanks for this. I think the chroma blur is a nice one. Will do some tests with it. I think it is possible, once you get the MOV opened in Avisynth, it depends on the encoders available in for example avidemux (avsproxygui) if you can save it as h.264 mp4.

Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot

You should listen to Mr. Frank. He's not trying to keep you from having fun, rather just attempting to minimize the risk of hurting someone should something go awry. The problem is someone with a larger more powerful plane and little or no flying experience will eventually see your video and try the same thing with less than favorable results.

-John

Most likely they will just outlaw fpv flying, perhaps for good reason. From what I see, a lot of fpv fliers have a tendency to "push the envelope" when it comes to the safety of others.

The rule that the plane must be visible is extremely important. You cannot properly scan for real air traffic with fpv goggles on.

When it's outlawed here, the market for equipment will fail and the fellow in Mexico will not be able to purchase the equipment any more. He only thinks that rules do not apply to him.

Originally Posted by ptg

You tube 720p HD quality is NOT as good as #11 original.
Maybe Vimeo ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iui9lN_HMFA

Yes, Vimeo is better.

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FuzTkd4fZ0

Reported

Originally Posted by Berkie

Reported

good job

Originally Posted by skaffen

I went through two Flycamone2's - they both broke for no apparent reason. My KFCs have been more reliable - no problems

KFC's? How long you been flying with Kentucky Fried Chicken

Just jokin'

Kev

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

good job

Thank you

Originally Posted by Berkie

Thank you

i take all hate as a complament.... so no.... thank you!

We have to accept that model flying has been recently under scrutiny by the authorities here. There are some that would like to cripple our ability to fly. So far we have prevailed by arguing that models are flown responsibly etc. (see AMA transcripts about this)

My recommendation is to make the video "private" or take it down. It could feed the frenzy otherwise.

Rocky2-- If you are going to fight a word war, learn how to spell!

Originally Posted by Big Plane dude

Rocky2-- If you are going to fight a word war, learn how to spell!

sory iim un mi itouche.... and i dont want to fight anything

Best way to deal with trolls is to ignore them....

... or use PM if you can't resist.

I just ordered one from eletech086 for $37.95 shipped. Going to try it from my newly ordered Blade CX2 heli. I have a 16GB MicroSD card. Hope it works!

so... back on topic, here's a video with my stock focused #11 ( i think it could be better if slightly biased towards infinity ) and the 0.67 aluminum wide angle lens on my FMS 1.4M P-51.

i shot this earlier this evening just at sunset.

P-51 08162011 (4 min 4 sec)

Cheers,
Brian

I have received instructions from the developer for a way for a person with SMD soldering skills to possibly unbrick a camera that will not turn on! One method, replacing the firmware IC chip with a new one with the firmware already installed, has already been mentioned in the FAQs. The alternative process is to flash replacement boot loader code and firmware into the existing firmware IC chip wth it still soldered in the camera!

The process involves temporarily relocating two tiny SMD resistors to allow flashing in new boot loader code into the firmware IC chip. Then restoring the resistors to their original positions, and flashing in new firmware. The resistor swap (presumably) allows the replacement boot loader code to be installed in it's dedicated memory location, in the protected area in front of the firmware. The boot loader code is flashed in just like the firmware... by copying the file to the microSD card root directory, and turning on the camera.

I had a bricked #11 camera that had been flakey, and eventually would not turn on at all when powered up (at least no LED indication). So I decided to try this. With some degree of difficulty in seeing the tiny resistors, I was able to complete the process, and was able to get the camera to boot up again! But it was not an easy process, requiring viewing the circuit board through magnification lenses while soldering with a low wattage, sharp tipped soldering iron, and even then shooting a close up picture of my work and viewing on my PC zoomed in to clearly see what I had just done!

But I did it so I can say it's possible with the right tools and vision, and it does work.... my camera will boot up again! Having said that, my camera still is flakey with the same problems cause by hardware elsewhere in the circuit. So this is not a magic cure all if there is faulty hardware causing the problem. But it might help someone, so is worth posting.

Attached is an archive with instructions showing how to do this, and a replacement boot loader file. Note that the boot loader is named similar to the firmware files, but with an "LD" prefix rather than "FW". So be SURE to keep these files separate. Accidentally loading in the wrong one could cause the problem this process is meant to repair!

Good Luck!

Originally Posted by TooSLow2Care

so... back on topic, here's a video with my stock focused #11 ( i think it could be better if slightly biased towards infinity ) and the 0.67 aluminum wide angle lens on my FMS 1.4M P-51.

i shot this earlier this evening just at sunset.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCpi6kPCGg4
Cheers,
Brian

Nice video, with a nice ending.
Do you have a pic of the mount?

Kev

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I have received instructions from the developer for a way for a person with SMD soldering skills to possibly unbrick a camera that will not turn on! One method, replacing the firmware IC chip with a new one with the firmware already installed, has already been mentioned in the FAQs. The alternative process is to flash replacement boot loader code and firmware into the existing firmware IC chip wth it still soldered in the camera!

The process involves temporarily relocating two tiny SMD resistors to allow flashing in new boot loader code into the firmware IC chip. Then restoring the resistors to their original positions, and flashing in new firmware. The resistor swap (presumably) allows the replacement boot loader code to be installed in it's dedicated memory location, in the protected area in front of the firmware. The boot loader code is flashed in just like the firmware... by copying the file to the microSD card root directory, and turning on the camera.

I had a bricked #11 camera that had been flakey, and eventually would not turn on at all when powered up (at least no LED indication). So I decided to try this. With some degree of difficulty in seeing the tiny resistors, I was able to complete the process, and was able to get the camera to boot up again! But it was not an easy process, requiring viewing the circuit board through magnification lenses while soldering with a low wattage, sharp tipped soldering iron, and even then shooting a close up picture of my work and viewing on my PC zoomed in to clearly see what I had just done!

But I did it so I can say it's possible with the right tools and vision, and it does work.... my camera will boot up again! Having said that, my camera still is flakey with the same problems cause by hardware elsewhere in the circuit. So this is not a magic cure all if there is faulty hardware causing the problem. But it might help someone, so is worth posting.

Attached is an archive with instructions showing how to do this, and a replacement boot loader file. Note that the boot loader is named similar to the firmware files, but with an "LD" prefix rather than "FW". So be SURE to keep these files separate. Accidentally loading in the wrong one could cause the problem this process is meant to repair!

Good Luck!

Thnx for the knowledge sharing, if there are any dutch members with faulty camera's after a bad flash I would be happy to assist!

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I have received instructions from the developer for a way for a person with SMD soldering skills to possibly unbrick a camera that will not turn on! One method, replacing the firmware IC chip with a new one with the firmware already installed, has already been mentioned in the FAQs. The alternative process is to flash replacement boot loader code and firmware into the existing firmware IC chip wth it still soldered in the camera!

The process involves temporarily relocating two tiny SMD resistors to allow flashing in new boot loader code into the firmware IC chip. Then restoring the resistors to their original positions, and flashing in new firmware. The resistor swap (presumably) allows the replacement boot loader code to be installed in it's dedicated memory location, in the protected area in front of the firmware. The boot loader code is flashed in just like the firmware... by copying the file to the microSD card root directory, and turning on the camera.

I had a bricked #11 camera that had been flakey, and eventually would not turn on at all when powered up (at least no LED indication). So I decided to try this. With some degree of difficulty in seeing the tiny resistors, I was able to complete the process, and was able to get the camera to boot up again! But it was not an easy process, requiring viewing the circuit board through magnification lenses while soldering with a low wattage, sharp tipped soldering iron, and even then shooting a close up picture of my work and viewing on my PC zoomed in to clearly see what I had just done!

But I did it so I can say it's possible with the right tools and vision, and it does work.... my camera will boot up again! Having said that, my camera still is flakey with the same problems cause by hardware elsewhere in the circuit. So this is not a magic cure all if there is faulty hardware causing the problem. But it might help someone, so is worth posting.

Attached is an archive with instructions showing how to do this, and a replacement boot loader file. Note that the boot loader is named similar to the firmware files, but with an "LD" prefix rather than "FW". So be SURE to keep these files separate. Accidentally loading in the wrong one could cause the problem this process is meant to repair!

Good Luck!

really nice!

any other rumors regarding a fixed WB firmware?

As usual, thank you for your work Tom!

Kev, & tmsn,
here are some images of my camera and mount on my FMS P-51 mustang, along with my dental floss safety lanyard care of Yabba (thanks for the idea) the black line on the top of the cam is there for alignment. I put the cam into webcam mode, and took a straight edge to it. when the straight edge was lined up with the center of the frame, i drew a line with a sharpie marker. this way i know where my cam is pointed.

Tom, you are a great help and source of good information about these cams. thank you again for all you do!!