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Aug 04, 2011, 01:35 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninety9
I have been lurking for a while and I decided to register because I had a few questions and comments to make.

First off, where can I get those 90 mini USB connectors? Although I only have one cam, that is a very slick cable.
...
They can be difficult to find!
Do an eBay search for "Right Angle Mini USB 5 Pin Male Plug Socket" or this link will take you there directly (for the next 8 days). $3.5 for 5 pieces with free shipping is a good price. I suggest you buy a few extra, just in case you goof up!

The seller, guiqing85, seems very reliable. I have purchased from him a few times already. The items were always very well packed and if you purchase a few (different) items he may even send by registered mail - well, at least he did for my last order. Shipping was always immediate.

He has an excellent selection of standard and mini (beware 5-pin not 8-pin!) USB plugs, sockets, cables, adapters etc. No "#11 special" cables though - And remember, you'll need the mini, not the micro plugs (he has both).
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Aug 04, 2011, 02:39 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop
The seller, guiqing85, seems very reliable.
Indeed, I ordered twice at his store and got both orders really fast (twice 5 angled mini USB plugs).
Aug 04, 2011, 07:48 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop
They can be difficult to find!
Do an eBay search for "Right Angle Mini USB 5 Pin Male Plug Socket" or this link will take you there directly (for the next 8 days). $3.5 for 5 pieces with free shipping is a good price. I suggest you buy a few extra, just in case you goof up!

The seller, guiqing85, seems very reliable. I have purchased from him a few times already. The items were always very well packed and if you purchase a few (different) items he may even send by registered mail - well, at least he did for my last order. Shipping was always immediate.

He has an excellent selection of standard and mini (beware 5-pin not 8-pin!) USB plugs, sockets, cables, adapters etc. No "#11 special" cables though - And remember, you'll need the mini, not the micro plugs (he has both).
Quote:
Originally Posted by wfvn
Indeed, I ordered twice at his store and got both orders really fast (twice 5 angled mini USB plugs).
Alright, I placed the order. Thanks for the heads up. Hopefully the shipping is faster than they say, otherwise, it won't be here till there 2nd or 3rd week of september
Aug 04, 2011, 12:09 PM
Registered User

Camera Broken


Hey Guys,

I have a big problem. This camera is just great and it worked wonderfully for one week but now it won't record anymore. It will just start with the yellow light on and then after about 5 seconds it just turns off! Sometimes I am able to start the recording but then it just stops and the camera turns off I tried the Reset Button several times and formatted the SD Card! Even tried another SD Card! I have no idea what the problem is and I really wanted to take the camera on my trip to france but I guess that won't happen I am really hoping for a solution for that problem! Thank you very much!
Aug 04, 2011, 12:35 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaMatze
Hey Guys,

I have a big problem. This camera is just great and it worked wonderfully for one week but now it won't record anymore. It will just start with the yellow light on and then after about 5 seconds it just turns off! Sometimes I am able to start the recording but then it just stops and the camera turns off I tried the Reset Button several times and formatted the SD Card! Even tried another SD Card! I have no idea what the problem is and I really wanted to take the camera on my trip to france but I guess that won't happen I am really hoping for a solution for that problem! Thank you very much!
Sounds like your battery is not charged or is unable to deliver the current the camera needs without dropping the voltage below the minimum required.

Your USB cable could be flakey. Does the red LED turn on when you plug it into your PC after one of these failed video sessions? If not, try a different USB charging cable and/or USB port on your computer.

Does the red LED eventually turn off after a while (could be as much as an hour if the battery is fully drained) indicating the battery is fully charged? If so and the camera still will not stay on, your battery could just have died a premature death. You can also try using the car charger cable, the special one that came with the camera, to see if that will keep the camera recording. If it does, your battery likely needs replacing if the charging tips above have not solved the problem. If you have a volt meter and can open the camera to check the voltage where the two battery wires are soldered to the circuit board you can tell more about it's condition, but do this when it will no longer record?

A full SD card could also show these symptoms, but you have already eliminated that possibility by switching and formatting cards.

Good luck!
Aug 04, 2011, 01:33 PM
Registered User
Hey Tom,

thanks for the answer....already thought about the battery as a problem source this is quite sad since I guess it's not that easy to put a new battery in place
the red light is turning on when i plug it in...i use the cable that came with it.... the battery should be full after 2 hours, shouldn't it?
Aug 04, 2011, 01:55 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaMatze
Hey Tom,

thanks for the answer....already thought about the battery as a problem source this is quite sad since I guess it's not that easy to put a new battery in place
the red light is turning on when i plug it in...i use the cable that came with it.... the battery should be full after 2 hours, shouldn't it?
Yes, two hours is more than enough to charge the battery. If the red LED is not turning off after an hour or so, the battery not reaching full voltage and may not be able to hold a charge.

Battery replacement requires some small circuit board soldering skills and a low-wattage soldering iron. There's some tips on this linked in the Post #3 FAQs.

WIll the camera turn on and record properly with it's special dedicated car charger?
Aug 04, 2011, 04:57 PM
Registered User
Anybody know if this is a real one, or fake? 1280x960, 30fps, very good price, good specs claimed, etc. in China.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-DV-Keychain...item2a12cfd15b
Aug 04, 2011, 05:13 PM
Registered User
cliffkot's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaMatze
Hey Tom,

thanks for the answer....already thought about the battery as a problem source this is quite sad since I guess it's not that easy to put a new battery in place
the red light is turning on when i plug it in...i use the cable that came with it.... the battery should be full after 2 hours, shouldn't it?

It may not be the battery. I have one that charges up and will not work. It never worked. Opened it up. The battery reads 4.1 volts which is quite good assuming it is a 1S.

Cliff.
Aug 04, 2011, 05:32 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Little-Acorn
Anybody know if this is a real one, or fake? 1280x960, 30fps, very good price, good specs claimed, etc. in China.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-DV-Keychain...item2a12cfd15b
That's not the #11, there's a chart somewhere, I think that's the #8, maybe? Don't buy it. If it says 1280x960, it's 640x480 sensor that has been scaled up. Only buy the 1280x720 #11 and check the FAQs for the legitimate sellers list.
Aug 04, 2011, 05:34 PM
Registered User
Still one question left unanswered. I'm not sure if there's a simple solution, but I keep running the battery down when the camera activates in my pocket. Does anyone else have this problem?
Aug 04, 2011, 05:49 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninety9
Still one question left unanswered. I'm not sure if there's a simple solution, but I keep running the battery down when the camera activates in my pocket. Does anyone else have this problem?
Yes, don't put it in your pocket. The other key cams turned on after holding down the button for a couple of seconds. This one turns on instantly so if you mash both buttons at once it is possible to start recording. It is very easy to mash both buttons at once when it is in your pocket.
Aug 04, 2011, 05:49 PM
Kiwi in Germany
whakahere's Avatar
hey guys. I just picked up this cam but I have a slight problem with the colour that it outputs. It seems to over do the colours completely. only on rare occasions does it give me the true colour.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rETXPUn7vtQ

what is causing this and how do I get it to remain the colour I want for longer (you will see it flick to the true colour then back to over saturated.
Aug 04, 2011, 05:53 PM
Registered User
Hi,
I want to get one of the 808HD cams to record some windsurfing. I plan to make a waterproof case and mount it to the boom, mast or my wrist. I've read that the jumbo versions come with a higher capacity battery, so I'm opting for that version as the size difference doesn't really matter in my case. I'm not sure though which case I should take. I read the BMW version is best to open?
I think that I'll also get a fisheye lens.
Concerning the housing, any advice or already gathered experience is very welcome. It would be perfect if the cam would still be controllable (start/stop) when inside the housing. Did someone already take out a wire from the button to an external switch?
Aug 04, 2011, 06:13 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffkot
It may not be the battery. I have one that charges up and will not work. It never worked. Opened it up. The battery reads 4.1 volts which is quite good assuming it is a 1S.

Cliff.
I had a battery that did not work properly in a #7. I took it out and modified the cam to external power. I found the problem with the original battery was the protective circuit, when I removed it it functioned fine. I still have that little battery, I charge it with a lipo charger to "storage" voltage.

I do see many people swapping the PC from one battery to another. I don't worry about that, use a smart charger only (not USB) and take reasonable care, but I did not consult my lawyer on that...YMMV
Aug 04, 2011, 06:22 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot
I had a battery that did not work properly in a #7. I took it out and modified the cam to external power. I found the problem with the original battery was the protective circuit, when I removed it it functioned fine. I still have that little battery, I charge it with a lipo charger to "storage" voltage.

I do see many people swapping the PC from one battery to another. I don't worry about that, use a smart charger only (not USB) and take reasonable care, but I did not consult my lawyer on that...YMMV
I believe that small circuit board is the ONLY low voltage protection for the battery. And since the battery is still powering the internal clock when just sitting turned off, it's possible a long period between charges could over-discharge the battery, especially if the battery was almost drained during the prior recording period and not charged afterwards.
Aug 04, 2011, 06:26 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by whakahere
hey guys. I just picked up this cam but I have a slight problem with the colour that it outputs. It seems to over do the colours completely. only on rare occasions does it give me the true colour.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rETXPUn7vtQ

what is causing this and how do I get it to remain the colour I want for longer (you will see it flick to the true colour then back to over saturated.
This is a known issue with these cameras, and some show the problem a lot worse than others. So far, there has not been any firmware updates that eliminate this, though the latest Release 2 firmware (see link in Post #3) helps a little bit. If you got your camera new recently, it should already have one of the REL 2 firmware versions on it though.
Aug 04, 2011, 06:33 PM
Kiwi in Germany
whakahere's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
This is a known issue with these cameras, and some show the problem a lot worse than others. So far, there has not been any firmware updates that eliminate this, though the latest Release 2 firmware (see link in Post #3) helps a little bit. If you got your camera new recently, it should already have one of the REL 2 firmware versions on it though.
thanks for the info. yes it is new and I downloaded the lastest firmware from here already. Looks like I will just have to live with it.
Aug 04, 2011, 06:51 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Little-Acorn
Anybody know if this is a real one, or fake? 1280x960, 30fps, very good price, good specs claimed, etc. in China.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-DV-Keychain...item2a12cfd15b
It's complete junk -- avoid like the plague. Not only is it not a #11, but it's much worse than the standard def 808s because image upsizing involves extra processing and needs to write 4 times as much data (for absolutely no good reason), which causes a dropped frame rate of over 40% -- pretty much unwatchable because of the jerkiness. The one and only reason for "interpolating" images to a larger size is to sucker people into thinking they're getting a better camera than they really are.

The #11 shoots 1280x720 H.264-encoded video in a .mov container file. If the ad doesn't say that -- e.g. if it says AVI -- it's not a #11.
Last edited by RogerDH; Aug 04, 2011 at 07:00 PM.
Aug 04, 2011, 07:04 PM
Stick banger
Ace4's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot
I had a battery that did not work properly in a #7. I took it out and modified the cam to external power. I found the problem with the original battery was the protective circuit, when I removed it it functioned fine. I still have that little battery, I charge it with a lipo charger to "storage" voltage.

I do see many people swapping the PC from one battery to another. I don't worry about that, use a smart charger only (not USB) and take reasonable care, but I did not consult my lawyer on that...YMMV
I'm wondering if that is also what is wrong with my cam. I just received a #11 jumbo from eletoponline365 (who told me they would remove the timestamp for me, yet mine came with the timestamp anyway), and it charges fine (red light goes out after awhile), but when I try to use it, it seems to power off or lock up while taking video longer than a couple of seconds. I can take photos usually without it dying, but I can only take very short videos (less than 5 seconds) or else it dies. The only way to fix when it dies seems to be hitting the reset button. I tried the with and without timestamp firmwares and there was no difference, but either flashes fine. I figured it wasn't worth it cost-wise to ship it back for an exchange, so I opened up the case (which already had the tabs on one side broken, so I'm guessing it was a return and since it powered up ok and charged ok they just shipped it off to another sucker, aka me) and checked the voltage, and the lipo appears to be fine. I was checking voltage on the board attachments to the lipo. My SD card is fine, I did a full read/write test with h2testw, it is 12mb/s write and 17mb/sec read (class 10). I guess I can disconnect the lipo and hook up a 4.0V power supply to see if that is the issue or not. I'm not really sure what else I can test out, I already tried the disconnect the battery to reset it and it didn't do anything. Any other suggestions?
Aug 04, 2011, 09:55 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
I have run the #7 from a wide variety of single cell sources via a servo connector added in place of the internal lipo

It seemed that the PC was limiting current even if voltage was good. Just a guess without any way to measure. After taking the PC off I cycled the battery and it looked good and still is.
Aug 04, 2011, 11:57 PM
AP-stick
ggtronic's Avatar
my latest video... still very happy with this little toy

La Pimbina (3 min 50 sec)
Aug 05, 2011, 12:16 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic
my latest video... still very happy with this little toy

http://vimeo.com/27321456
Nice location and scenery for float flying and AV!
Aug 05, 2011, 08:31 AM
Registered User
Hey guys,

I just read at chucklohr's page that the "half dead" problem might be fixed by cutting a battery wire and then resolder it. I am thinking about doing that although I am a little concerned because if that trick doesn't work, I will also loose warranty. eletoponline told me to send it in but i don't like waiting for a new one for another 6 weeks what would you do? shall i try to fix it myself? thank you
Aug 05, 2011, 08:48 AM
Registered User
jims123's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic
my latest video... still very happy with this little toy .
Very nice video.. loved the image quality, scenery, seeing your friends wave, and the background music.. nicely done and edited.. was amazed to see how slow and close to the water you could fly it at the end too.. nice and stable platform .. is it an off the shelf plane, or a custom built video platform?
Regards, JimS
Aug 05, 2011, 09:09 AM
ptg
ptg
#1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaykob
Hi,
I want to get one of the 808HD cams to record some windsurfing. I plan to make a waterproof case and mount it to the boom, mast or my wrist. I've read that the jumbo versions come with a higher capacity battery, so I'm opting for that version as the size difference doesn't really matter in my case. I'm not sure though which case I should take. I read the BMW version is best to open?
I think that I'll also get a fisheye lens.
Concerning the housing, any advice or already gathered experience is very welcome. It would be perfect if the cam would still be controllable (start/stop) when inside the housing. Did someone already take out a wire from the button to an external switch?
SIMPLE IS THE BEST.

20 m tested.
Aug 05, 2011, 09:41 AM
Airspeed, altitude, and brains
flightphotog's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee
A Camel is a Mouse - designed by a committee, which is why Microsoft can't design anything useful.
Mike
Wow! If I could design ONE thing that was anywhere near as useless as the majority of the Microsoft designed items...I wouldn't know what to do with all of the money!!
Aug 05, 2011, 10:45 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaMatze
Hey guys,

I just read at chucklohr's page that the "half dead" problem might be fixed by cutting a battery wire and then resolder it. I am thinking about doing that although I am a little concerned because if that trick doesn't work, I will also loose warranty. eletoponline told me to send it in but i don't like waiting for a new one for another 6 weeks what would you do? shall i try to fix it myself? thank you
If you had gone to post #3 like the title of this thread says, you would have found that POSSIBLE fix here!

This has worked for some, but not for others, so there is no way anyone can advise you if it will work or not. If the shipping time to return the camera and get a new one is a concern, you could contact your seller and see if they will agree to refunding your purchase price when they receive your camera back. Then you could buy a new one so both are shipped at the same time... saves about half the shipping time. This has worked out OK for those who have done this and reported here.
Aug 05, 2011, 11:07 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace4
I'm wondering if that is also what is wrong with my cam. I just received a #11 jumbo from eletoponline365 (who told me they would remove the timestamp for me, yet mine came with the timestamp anyway), and it charges fine (red light goes out after awhile), but when I try to use it, it seems to power off or lock up while taking video longer than a couple of seconds. I can take photos usually without it dying, but I can only take very short videos (less than 5 seconds) or else it dies. The only way to fix when it dies seems to be hitting the reset button. I tried the with and without timestamp firmwares and there was no difference, but either flashes fine. I figured it wasn't worth it cost-wise to ship it back for an exchange, so I opened up the case (which already had the tabs on one side broken, so I'm guessing it was a return and since it powered up ok and charged ok they just shipped it off to another sucker, aka me) and checked the voltage, and the lipo appears to be fine. I was checking voltage on the board attachments to the lipo. My SD card is fine, I did a full read/write test with h2testw, it is 12mb/s write and 17mb/sec read (class 10). I guess I can disconnect the lipo and hook up a 4.0V power supply to see if that is the issue or not. I'm not really sure what else I can test out, I already tried the disconnect the battery to reset it and it didn't do anything. Any other suggestions?
You can just connect the car charger that comes with the camera to power it WHILE recording at the same time. A generic USB car charger will NOT do this.

I have a camera that acted exactly the same as yours that was sent to me by another user to try and find the problem. Last evening I powered it up via the camera USB plug using an external battery pack I made WITH the special plug wiring used by the car charger and shot a test video about 5 minutes long before I manually shut it down. The video was fine! I'm doing more testing today to see if I can record to fill the entire SD card.

It seems there are a number of these cameras showing up right now with this malady, and I'd like to see if the problem is the battery, the small protection circuit board that comes soldered to the battery terminals, or both. Powering the camera by this method takes the battery out of the equation, so at least it can be confirmed if that is where the problem lies.

BTW, it cost me less than $5 to ship a camera back to China by ordinary International Airmail from the Western US (Seattle). You don't get any tracking or receipt confirmation that way, but it was worth trying for me and it worked out OK.
Aug 05, 2011, 11:07 AM
Reap the wild wind
headlessagain's Avatar
Here is a short vid of my mini depron Fox. #11 mounted on my hatcam - wedge of EPP foam stuck on the peak of a base ball hat.
Mini Depron Fox (2 min 56 sec)

Head
Aug 05, 2011, 11:10 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar

Underwater Case for #11 HD Camera


Compiled from from prior posts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaykob
Hi,

I want to get one of the 808HD cams to record some windsurfing. I plan to make a waterproof case and mount it to the boom, mast or my wrist. I've read that the jumbo versions come with a higher capacity battery, so I'm opting for that version as the size difference doesn't really matter in my case. I'm not sure though which case I should take. I read the BMW version is best to open?

I think that I'll also get a fisheye lens.

Concerning the housing, any advice or already gathered experience is very welcome. It would be perfect if the cam would still be controllable (start/stop) when inside the housing. Did someone already take out a wire from the button to an external switch?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg
You can use plastic TIC TAC ( or similar )case. You know - TIC TAC bonbons.

Front part (where lens is ) is made of little part of glass or not scratched, clear plastic. Front is rubber o-seal as anti-scratch protection.

I glued with EPOXY 5 minutes glue. Sealed is with electro plastic tape.

On / off works fine.

Enjoy.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Aug 05, 2011 at 12:34 PM.
Aug 05, 2011, 11:24 AM
ptg
ptg
#1

Sub housing


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
Looks like an interesting solution! Maybe you can modify your post to give more details on exactly what you used for the case, sealing, etc. in case someone else wants to duplicate it?
Tom, null problemo, as Alf Said.

You can use plastic TIC TAC ( or similar )case. You know - TIC TAC bonbons.
Front part (where lens is ) is made of little part of glass or not scratched, clear plastic. Front is rubber o-seal as anti-scratch protection.
I glued with EPOXY 5 minutes glue. Sealed is with electro plastic tape.
On / off works fine.

Enjoy.
Aug 05, 2011, 11:44 AM
ExPat
Aero Andy's Avatar
Hey Head

That's that Frisky little Fox you've built there, must be on 3s to get that kind of speed, right? Nice flying and thanks for the video. I'm looking forward to getting my #11 so I can fix it to my hat too.
Regards
Andy
Aug 05, 2011, 12:16 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg
SIMPLE IS THE BEST.

20 m tested.
Nice work ptg! I was thinking of something like this.
Can you tell me a bit more? Where did you get the plastic box from and what glue/sealant did you use? Silicone? What's that ring on the outside?

Update: didn't see your last post. Could you make a pic of the opened case so that we can see the top separated and see the sealing? Thank you!
Last edited by Jaykob; Aug 05, 2011 at 12:23 PM.
Aug 05, 2011, 12:17 PM
Reap the wild wind
headlessagain's Avatar
Hi Andy
you guessed right - 3 cell 500 or 800. For more details and some still photos head over to this sadly under subscribed thread. One guy is running a 500 watt motor on his larger version
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0#post18962267
Head
Aug 05, 2011, 01:54 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Love my little HD key cams. not as nice as my HD Stick cams but you can not get the stick cams anymore :-(

has anyone found a good stick cam version of this type of unit yet? ie I want something stick shaped with the lens on the top front so if I SLIDE the camera into a rocket the lens is facing down.

the only way to face the keychain cam down is to tape it to the rocket or use a mirror.

ALSO any messed with the new 1080p cams available now? so far the ones I found that seem legit are 15fps. might be ok for a VERY slow glider flight but not a rocket flight.

anyone found a micro 1080p 30fps yet?
Aug 05, 2011, 02:25 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys
Love my little HD key cams. not as nice as my HD Stick cams but you can not get the stick cams anymore :-(

has anyone found a good stick cam version of this type of unit yet? ie I want something stick shaped with the lens on the top front so if I SLIDE the camera into a rocket the lens is facing down.

the only way to face the keychain cam down is to tape it to the rocket or use a mirror.

ALSO any messed with the new 1080p cams available now? so far the ones I found that seem legit are 15fps. might be ok for a VERY slow glider flight but not a rocket flight.

anyone found a micro 1080p 30fps yet?
Nothing has surface that I've seen in the form factor you want. Nor anything different on the 1080p front different from what you stated. The developer of the #11 IS working on a 1080p version, but I have not seen any video samples from it yet. quite honestly, I don't think it's worth the effort UNLESS they can get a better CMOS/Len module. The higher video resolution of the 1080p format is wasted if the captured image still has the video problems of the current cameras, and the files are MUCH bigger, so recording times go down for a given flash card size.

Re: taping the #11 to a rocket... is this just a matter of being inconvenient versus pushing the gum cam shape into premad slot in the rocket body?
Aug 05, 2011, 02:45 PM
That's Pretty Neat!
FR4-Pilot's Avatar
Wow - what a great thread - thanks for all of the valuable information.

I'll try to be quick and concise:
  • My #11 Battery only lasts 3 minutes now after a charge. I've been reading up on this issue here, USB standard cables, special cables, protection circuity on the internal lipo, external battery packs, etc.
  • I only want to use the camera on my heli to record a single 5 minute flight per flight battery.
  • I use 3S 2200mAh lipo flight batteries to power my (electric) heli.

I want to completely remove the internal battery from the #11 camera and replace it with two wires and small connector.

Then I want to make a cable that connects the small connector (now on the camera) to one of the three cells available on the balance tap of my flight battery. Then I could power the camera from the flight battery. I would actually make three of those balance tap to camera cables (that tap different cells) so I could rotate which flight battery cells get used to power the camera.

I did some math based on a post that indicated the camera took 380mAh from an external battery for a 73 minute video. Since I'd only be recording a 5 minute video the camera would only take around 26mAh additional from one of the flight battery's cells, if all assumptions and math are correct.

Would drawing an extra 26mAh from one of the flight battery cells per flight be acceptable? I only fly for 5 minutes and use around 65-70% of the flight battery's charge. I usually balance charge my flight batteries anyway.

Thanks for any advice,
-John
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Aug 05, 2011 at 02:57 PM.
Aug 05, 2011, 03:03 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Well tapping to to the model is #1 ugly #2 risky (falling off shock cord tearing it off) #3 risky leaves the camera dangling susceptible to damage ie less protected) #3 the BIG one for me. aiming and formatting the video becomes a random number generator issue.

ie I design rockets for good aerial video and I do not like to use mirrors. degrades the image and adds failure points.

there is more issues with taping. for LARGER rockets the model can be hard to reach ie to SEE the little LED.

with stick cams I can hold the cam in my hand set it confirm its running then slot it into the rocket secure it and "GO"

its just nicer. big time. also tapping to the side can add drag and vector variables. IE induce a spin ruining the video.

now for airplanes if you want look forward or rearward keychain cams are superior. (lower aero profile)

-------

FR4 tapping into the pack should be ok BUT BE FOREWARNED

these cams get HINKY as power gets "low" you start with audio artifacts and later progress to VIDEO artifacts before the battery dies (cheap voltage regulation??)

so as your pack is depressed when you apply throttle your camera may NOT like this very much :-) so just be ready for that.

also when it does not like this is it going to send "feedback" to your plane maybe something your plane is not going to like?

will you HURT anything? electrically NO but I would ground test to pack depletion before I go up in the air to see how both behave.
Aug 05, 2011, 03:05 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
I have found 3 "stick" style cams on ebay at 720p (appears true) but they are all over $100 IE I am not paying $127 for what I can do exactly the same for $39.99 :-)

I really love my stick cams. they recorded superior quality 720p video.
Aug 05, 2011, 03:08 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
FR4 - Sounds like my setup for a #7 808. The camera does not draw much, but need to be careful not drop the battery voltage while powering motor below the camera shutdown threshold of about 3.6 volts (per cell). Use a high C battery will help. For my glider I use high cutoff for the ESC, for a heli just be conservative ;-)
Aug 05, 2011, 03:12 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot
Wow - what a great thread - thanks for all of the valuable information.

I'll try to be quick and concise:
  • My #11 Battery only lasts 3 minutes now after a charge. I've been reading up on this issue here, USB standard cables, special cables, protection circuity on the internal lipo, external battery packs, etc.
  • I only want to use the camera on my heli to record a single 5 minute flight per flight battery.
  • I use 3S 2200mAh lipo flight batteries to power my (electric) heli.
I want to completely remove the internal battery from the #11 camera and replace it with two wires and small connector.

Then I want to make a cable that connects the small connector (now on the camera) to one of the three cells available on the balance tap of my flight battery. Then I could power the camera from the flight battery. I would actually make three of those balance tap to camera cables (that tap different cells) so I could rotate which flight battery cells get used to power the camera.

I did some math based on a post that indicated the camera took 380mAh from an external battery for a 73 minute video. Since I'd only be recording a 5 minute video the camera would only take around 26mAh additional from one of the flight battery's cells, if all assumptions and math are correct.

Would drawing an extra 26mAh from one of the flight battery cells per flight be acceptable? I only fly for 5 minutes and use around 65-70% of the flight battery's charge. I usually balance charge my flight batteries anyway.

Thanks for any advice,
-John
The camera power drain on one cell is just over 1% of it's capacity... not a problem. The cells can be rebalanced when they are charged.

You could just make one cable that attaches to the balance tap, then have three terminations (one for each cell) that fit the camera's plug. e.g. Here's one I use for checking/charging individual cells:
Aug 05, 2011, 03:26 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
...
I have a camera that acted exactly the same as yours that was sent to me by another user to try and find the problem. Last evening I powered it up via the camera USB plug using an external battery pack I made WITH the special plug wiring used by the car charger and shot a test video about 5 minutes long before I manually shut it down. The video was fine! I'm doing more.
My additional tests show there is more going on than battery related problems. A longer recording with external power failed... seems to go back to my prior feeling that it's a temperature-related issue. I could not even get a short (several minute) video once the camera was warm to the touch! And could not read files from the flash card properly when in the camera... probably cannot write to the card in that condition either, so the video fails.
Aug 05, 2011, 03:28 PM
That's Pretty Neat!
FR4-Pilot's Avatar
Cool - thanks guys. After a normal flight my cells are usually 3.85v, but that's unloaded, so I'll have to do some tests as advised. I have some small E-Flite MCX type connectors & sockets (a little larger actually) that I was thinking of using - they are polarized. I like the three-headed connector idea - I need to see what parts I have laying around ...

If this doesn't work well I'll probably try the dedicated 5V BEC with additional .7V diode drop to keep it isolated from everything else. I'll try the simple approach first

Thanks again!
-John

EDIT : Surgical Procedure Complete

I decided to use standard JST connectors instead - had a bunch of pairs left over from another project. I opted to cut the battery out, leaving enough length of the original wires to work with. So far so good, camera powered up and successfully recorded a test video with audio. As posted in this thread, connecting the USB to the PC mandates the battery be disconnected since that protection circuit is now gone. And, since the battery is gone the red led flashes when plugged into the PC via USB. The charging circuit is attempting to charge and failing, thus the led flickers. Turning the power on to the camera works as expected. Hopefully tomorrow I can do some initial low altitude test hovers to see how the heli's electrical system reacts to its new attachment

If all is well electrically then I hope I haven't introduced new vibrations into the camera via the cable, or if I did they're not strong enough to mess with the picture ... maybe some additional fun-tack under the connector to keep it still ...

-John
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Aug 06, 2011 at 12:43 AM.
Aug 05, 2011, 04:38 PM
ptg
ptg
#1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaykob
Nice work ptg! I was thinking of something like this.
Can you tell me a bit more? Where did you get the plastic box from and what glue/sealant did you use? Silicone? What's that ring on the outside?

Update: didn't see your last post. Could you make a pic of the opened case so that we can see the top separated and see the sealing? Thank you!
I sealed the opening with electric tape, as soft as possible.
The cover of this little bonbon case has one little opening, where You take out bonbons. Also this opening is glued with epoxy. You see it on photo.
Aug 05, 2011, 05:18 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg
I sealed the opening with electric tape, as soft as possible.
The cover of this little bonbon case has one little opening, where You take out bonbons. Also this opening is glued with epoxy. You see it on photo.
Thanks! Now I understand how it works
I might go for a pvc tube version though, as the impacts can get pretty high when the sail with the camera crashes into the water...
Aug 05, 2011, 06:52 PM
Stick banger
Ace4's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace4
I'm wondering if that is also what is wrong with my cam. I just received a #11 jumbo from eletoponline365 (who told me they would remove the timestamp for me, yet mine came with the timestamp anyway), and it charges fine (red light goes out after awhile), but when I try to use it, it seems to power off or lock up while taking video longer than a couple of seconds. I can take photos usually without it dying, but I can only take very short videos (less than 5 seconds) or else it dies. The only way to fix when it dies seems to be hitting the reset button. I tried the with and without timestamp firmwares and there was no difference, but either flashes fine. I figured it wasn't worth it cost-wise to ship it back for an exchange, so I opened up the case (which already had the tabs on one side broken, so I'm guessing it was a return and since it powered up ok and charged ok they just shipped it off to another sucker, aka me) and checked the voltage, and the lipo appears to be fine. I was checking voltage on the board attachments to the lipo. My SD card is fine, I did a full read/write test with h2testw, it is 12mb/s write and 17mb/sec read (class 10). I guess I can disconnect the lipo and hook up a 4.0V power supply to see if that is the issue or not. I'm not really sure what else I can test out, I already tried the disconnect the battery to reset it and it didn't do anything. Any other suggestions?
So it's not the charge protection circuit. Apparently the camera was locked up and drawing power all night, so the lipo was at 1.4V this morning. Hooking up a 4V power supply resulted in the exact same behavior as before, only able to record under 5 second length videos without the camera locking up.

Since it was on a power supply, I was able to pull some current draws at 4.0V. It's not a calibrated supply, so the numbers are more just for "that's interesting".

Power on, video mode: 0.12-0.13A
Power on, still mode: 0.12-0.13A
Recording video: 0.23-0.27A

Incidentally, when it locks up during video recording it drops to 0.16A.

So it looks like I have a paperweight.
Aug 05, 2011, 07:31 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace4
So it's not the charge protection circuit. Apparently the camera was locked up and drawing power all night, so the lipo was at 1.4V this morning. Hooking up a 4V power supply resulted in the exact same behavior as before, only able to record under 5 second length videos without the camera locking up.

Since it was on a power supply, I was able to pull some current draws at 4.0V. It's not a calibrated supply, so the numbers are more just for "that's interesting".

Power on, video mode: 0.12-0.13A
Power on, still mode: 0.12-0.13A
Recording video: 0.23-0.27A

Incidentally, when it locks up during video recording it drops to 0.16A.

So it looks like I have a paperweight.
Your lipo is toast for sure! Voltage on a lipo should never be allowed to go below about 3V. Sounds as if the protection circuit did not work to disconnect the battery. But that doesn't mean that replacing the battery is going to fix it, eithr!
Aug 06, 2011, 10:32 AM
shoty
shoty's Avatar
Hello everyone

after a long time of lurking around this thread i finally registered myself to share some of the experiences i had with my 808#11. I'm not that much into RC stuff instead i like spending my time sending money to some guy in asia and patiently waiting for something useful to arrive. First of all i would like to thank everyone who contributed here. Currently this thread is the most informative i could find around the internet with a lot of helpful advice.

Most of the information i can provide is widely know around here but maybe i can confirm some of it for users who are in doubt.

I ordered my 808#11 via Ebay from eletoponline365 and it took 14 days to arrive in germany, which is pretty fast but unfortunately my local custom office got hold of the package which means one week extra waiting time plus 2 days untlil the notification arrives via mail and two extra days until i had the time to get there. Maybe it wasn't a good idea to share my opinions on how fast local customs should work the last time i was picking something up at the office...
Anyway eletoponline365 gets a clear recommendation to buy from on ebay.

Till now i shot around 5 hours of video with a 8gb Class 10 Transcend SD card. I tested the card with h2testw and used SD formatter and everything is just fine. No dropped frames or blurry video but if i try my cheap 4gb sd card i get 1 to 2 dropped frames every second. To use a fast SD card is probalby the best advice for a beginner having problems with this camera.

Before i ordered the cam i was kinda concerned about the picture quality especially about the vignette effect around the corners but i got really lucky and have only a small dark spot on the lower right and no area out of focus. I can't confirm if the guys in china had a good day soldering everything together or if it's the new firmware. My cam came without a timestamp and films in bigger chunks than 20min like the original firmware did. So i guess i got a V3(?) with new firmware.

The only thing i'm kind of concerned is the temperature the cam is producing while recording. Tom Frank wrote
Quote:
The bottom line is the camera shouldn't get much hotter than you do when you are sick with a fever!
If i had a fever and get that hot like my cam does i would be dead right away. Does anybody else checked the temperatur of his camera?

Another question i have is if anybody around here build a shock absorbend mount for the camera? I use my camera mostly on my mountainboard and kiteboard and it can get very rough riding these. A deshaker algorithm for Virtualdub or some other video editing tool works fine but if it's getting to shaky even those can't help out anymore. I'm searching for some ideas on how to build such a mount. My current approch is to use a PVC pipe with 45mm in diameter, inside i will fix my trusty waterproof TicTac casing with the camera with some rubber bands so that the camera sits right in the midle of the case. Maybe someone got a better idea? I'm not sure if this will work out or if should use a really soft foam around the cam.
Aug 06, 2011, 10:36 AM
Registered User
Slightly OT with current posts but, has anyone had an email response back from either eletop or htinter?

I've mailed the former about a no-show and the latter (twice) about a potential DOA. Over a week has gone by and neither have responded.
Last edited by elshiftos; Aug 06, 2011 at 11:40 AM.
Aug 06, 2011, 12:41 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoty
...
The only thing i'm kind of concerned is the temperature the cam is producing while recording. Tom Frank wrote

Quote:
The bottom line is the camera shouldn't get much hotter than you do when you are sick with a fever!
If i had a fever and get that hot like my cam does i would be dead right away. Does anybody else checked the temperatur of his camera?

Another question i have is if anybody around here build a shock absorbend mount for the camera? I use my camera mostly on my mountainboard and kiteboard and it can get very rough riding these. A deshaker algorithm for Virtualdub or some other video editing tool works fine but if it's getting to shaky even those can't help out anymore. I'm searching for some ideas on how to build such a mount. My current approch is to use a PVC pipe with 45mm in diameter, inside i will fix my trusty waterproof TicTac casing with the camera with some rubber bands so that the camera sits right in the midle of the case. Maybe someone got a better idea? I'm not sure if this will work out or if should use a really soft foam around the cam.
My temperature comment was based on my tests of the case temperature using very accurate thermal sensors. I'm confident they are accurate, and the highest surface temperature I measured is a little over 101 deg. F. It probably feels hotter to the touch since your finger tips are a lot cooler. The video processor and support chips get much hotter inside the camera, and the small case surrounding the circuit board is largely responsible for the "abnormal" temperature feel. I have another camera where the video processor is very close to the shell of the camera, and it also gets quite warm. I have a larger Jumbo #11 on its way with the same components inside, but a roomier case. It will be interesting to see how much of a difference this makes.

A shock mount for the severe and varied motion you are envisioning is not likely to do any good. The camera has such small mass it will respond to the slightest movement, and when the frequency and amplitude of motion is highly variable, what might work for one case will not work for another.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Aug 06, 2011 at 03:43 PM. Reason: spelling and grammar
Aug 06, 2011, 10:23 PM
Registered User
Walphed's Avatar
Hey I have a quick question. My #11 has been acting up on me lately. It does the thing where it only records a minute before crazy blue artifacts take over the video or it doesn't save a video at all. So, I assume the battery is dying.

I don't have the ability to replace the battery, but I do have the little blue external charger that came with the camera that holds a AA battery. The problem is, I cant figure out how to make it work. It still seems to draw off of the internal battery even if I have the charger plugged in. The red LED on the charger is flashing. Am I missing something?
Aug 07, 2011, 01:04 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walphed
Hey I have a quick question. My #11 has been acting up on me lately. It does the thing where it only records a minute before crazy blue artifacts take over the video or it doesn't save a video at all. So, I assume the battery is dying.

I don't have the ability to replace the battery, but I do have the little blue external charger that came with the camera that holds a AA battery. The problem is, I cant figure out how to make it work. It still seems to draw off of the internal battery even if I have the charger plugged in. The red LED on the charger is flashing. Am I missing something?
Quick answer... see post #3 link on external power.
Aug 07, 2011, 04:07 PM
Registered User
mavlo77's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot
EDIT : Surgical Procedure Complete
I decided to use standard JST connectors instead - had a bunch of pairs left over from another project. I opted to cut the battery out, leaving enough length of the original wires to work with. So far so good, camera powered up and successfully recorded a test video with audio. As posted in this thread, connecting the USB to the PC mandates the battery be disconnected since that protection circuit is now gone. And, since the battery is gone the red led flashes when plugged into the PC via USB. The charging circuit is attempting to charge and failing, thus the led flickers. Turning the power on to the camera works as expected. Hopefully tomorrow I can do some initial low altitude test hovers to see how the heli's electrical system reacts to its new attachment

If all is well electrically then I hope I haven't introduced new vibrations into the camera via the cable, or if I did they're not strong enough to mess with the picture ... maybe some additional fun-tack under the connector to keep it still ...

-John
Hi John, I did exactly the same today after my internal battery died! But before I noticed your post. I used a servo connector, +5 in the middle, so also no polarity issue. And I can use any length servo extension lead to accomodate to the position on the aircraft.

Then I have a 500 mAh single cell which powers the camera. It just recorded a 1:20 hr video. And still 3.77 V left. So 1:30 - 1:40 hr should be possible.

This way the camera is completely separated from the electric system of your aircraft. Just velcro the light 500 mAh cell somewhere, it's about 10 grams maybe. Nothing. Camera itself gets lighter, so better for mounting positions on vertical stab for example.
Aug 07, 2011, 04:37 PM
Registered User
Walphed's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
Quick answer... see post #3 link on external power.
Thanks Tom.

I have an old #3 camera that I don't use any more. Is it safe to assume I could take the battery from it and put it in the #11? If so, could I just splice the red and black wires and throw some electrical tape around it, or would I have to do some soldering?
Aug 07, 2011, 04:47 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walphed
Thanks Tom.

I have an old #3 camera that I don't use any more. Is it safe to assume I could take the battery from it and put it in the #11? If so, could I just splice the red and black wires and throw some electrical tape around it, or would I have to do some soldering?
This, also, has a FAQ link in post #3! The #3 battery should have the protection circuit board on it, so you could just connect the red and balck wires and be OK, although your recording time will be about 1/2 of what it is with a fresh small #11 battery.

You really SHOULD solder the leads, but if really well twisted together and secured (preferrably by heat shrink rather than tape), if will probably be OK. The extra wire and insulation may be a very tight fit in the case, though.
Aug 07, 2011, 05:16 PM
Registered User
Walphed's Avatar
Thanks. I did read that part, I just wondered if I could cheat a little bit. I appreciate your help.
Aug 07, 2011, 06:23 PM
Registered User

Lesson Learned - Prop Balancing on AR Drone


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
Maybe, maybe not. You said heli, not quad! But the quad uses props just like our RC planes, and we can balance them. You just need to do it four times! That still may not do it, but it must be done as a first step. I've seen some really stable AV shot from quads and other multi-prop craft.
I think the electronics in this thing don't mix well with the idea of prop balancing. I got four new props, setup a balancer, carefully applied a thin layer of paint on the blades (a very small amount) to ensure proper balance and the thing turned into a porpose. It auto takes off into hover and sits there like a rock waiting for command input when operating normally. This thing was now bouncing up and down a couple of feet and was almost uncontrollable. I put the stock blades back on and it was back to hovering like a rock.

These blades are so light that I think any mod to them upsets the auto system.

Good idea though and learned how to replace the blades, shaft and motor gears on this thing.

Thanks,
Fred
Aug 07, 2011, 07:00 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
Speaking of vibration, I was getting a horrible buzzing sound on my jumbo cameras. I thought my motor was giving out on me, but could never hear anything in static tests.

Upon giving the keycams a shake test the answer was revealed. There is a little chrome button and a chrome colored fake key on the case which is loosely mounted. The buttons also vibrate.

Initially I considered using CA, but decided not to out of fear that it might wick inside and affect something sensitive. I opted for a liberal application of blue painters masking tape to the ornery parts. One piece of tape covers the three buttons but still allows them to be depressed. Happy to report that my plane now hums like a bee again. A low tech but effective solution.

More about sound. I like to reduce the volume with Vdub, but I leave 5% of the audio in so I can gauge airspeed. After watching many hours of these videos I can even tell when the plane is slipping or skidding by variations in the tone of the "airspeed indicator".
Last edited by JumpySticks; Aug 07, 2011 at 07:07 PM.
Aug 07, 2011, 10:33 PM
That's Pretty Neat!
FR4-Pilot's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mavlo77
Hi John, I did exactly the same today after my internal battery died! But before I noticed your post. I used a servo connector, +5 in the middle, so also no polarity issue. And I can use any length servo extension lead to accomodate to the position on the aircraft.

Then I have a 500 mAh single cell which powers the camera. It just recorded a 1:20 hr video. And still 3.77 V left. So 1:30 - 1:40 hr should be possible.

This way the camera is completely separated from the electric system of your aircraft. Just velcro the light 500 mAh cell somewhere, it's about 10 grams maybe. Nothing. Camera itself gets lighter, so better for mounting positions on vertical stab for example.
Good idea - I might try a small separate battery. I recorded my first heli video with the camera powered this way and it worked - no apparent problems. The only thing is there's a lot of static/noise in the audio so I think the camera is picking up electrical ESC/motor noise from the power connections it shares with the battery. I think the E-Flite SR120 battery will do the trick ...

More good news - the picture looked great - no jello introduced from adding wires and routing/wrapping them to the heli's frame. I didn't have to fun-tack down the connector either I'm not overly concerned about the audio, it's pretty much just loud motor noise, I usually attenuate the on-board audio anyway ... And, when I went to balance charge my flight batteries (used to power the cam) all three cells in each pack were the same voltage - 3.8V - at the beginning of the cycle, apparently un-affected by the extra 26mAh draw from the middle cell

Mini-Titan E325 V1 - Flight 45 - HD Camera Mod (5 min 18 sec)
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Aug 10, 2011 at 12:15 AM.
Aug 07, 2011, 10:44 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredle
I think the electronics in this thing don't mix well with the idea of prop balancing. I got four new props, setup a balancer, carefully applied a thin layer of paint on the blades (a very small amount) to ensure proper balance and the thing turned into a porpose. It auto takes off into hover and sits there like a rock waiting for command input when operating normally. This thing was now bouncing up and down a couple of feet and was almost uncontrollable. I put the stock blades back on and it was back to hovering like a rock.

These blades are so light that I think any mod to them upsets the auto system.

Good idea though and learned how to replace the blades, shaft and motor gears on this thing.

Thanks,
Fred
I've never flown a quad, but I don't see any way better balanced blades could do what you say. You mention "setting up a balancer"... what kind? Is it possible you made them worse? Anyway, you should be able to get much better input over in the forum dedicated to these kinds of multi-rotor hovercraft.
Aug 08, 2011, 03:11 AM
Registered User
Hello everyone!

I am sorry if it has been asked before, but how do you clean the lens of this keycam?

I got some sticky glue from a duct tape on glass lens of my keycam, is there any way to clean it off?

I am not sure if I can use acetone on it, if the lens is made out of plastic it might melt or something
Aug 08, 2011, 06:22 AM
Registered User

balancing


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
I've never flown a quad, but I don't see any way better balanced blades could do what you say. You mention "setting up a balancer"... what kind? Is it possible you made them worse? Anyway, you should be able to get much better input over in the forum dedicated to these kinds of multi-rotor hovercraft.
Could be - I've had some input in another forum. Paint on the inside edge may have been the wrong way to go - I've got to order some new blades now to give it another try.

Thanks,
Fred
Aug 08, 2011, 06:23 AM
Agricultural flyer
mixer421's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys
Love my little HD key cams. not as nice as my HD Stick cams but you can not get the stick cams anymore :-(

has anyone found a good stick cam version of this type of unit yet? ie I want something stick shaped with the lens on the top front so if I SLIDE the camera into a rocket the lens is facing down.

the only way to face the keychain cam down is to tape it to the rocket or use a mirror.

ALSO any messed with the new 1080p cams available now? so far the ones I found that seem legit are 15fps. might be ok for a VERY slow glider flight but not a rocket flight.

anyone found a micro 1080p 30fps yet?
It's not HD but the MD-80 is still available in the UK and I think it was one of the best of its kind.
Aug 08, 2011, 06:31 AM
Agricultural flyer
mixer421's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
Does the camera do this ONLY when shooting video when close to your TX when it's turned on? Do some ground testing with the TX on/off to strat your troubleshooting. I'd be surprised if it's the TX. Try a different (CL4 or better) flash memory card as well.
I think I've found the answer to my lost / scrambled frames at the start and end of my 'Jumbo' videos! It seems to be all my fault because I turn the camera 'off' before stopping the video. If I do it the proper way the video is perfect!
Aug 08, 2011, 07:35 AM
Inspector Gadget
Quote:
Originally Posted by newer
Hello everyone!

I am sorry if it has been asked before, but how do you clean the lens of this keycam?

I got some sticky glue from a duct tape on glass lens of my keycam, is there any way to clean it off?

I am not sure if I can use acetone on it, if the lens is made out of plastic it might melt or something
I've just had a similar problem with my #11 camera. A black mark appeared near the centre of the video which had moved with each video I took. I tried cleaning the lens with a cloth - no good, tried a lens cleaning solution - no good. In desperation I dis-assembled the unit to see if I could unscrew the lens and in doing so I have totalled it! (now dead). I think my problem was that some microscopic piece of black plastic became lodged between the lens and sensor. However, for your problem I would buy some industrial alcohol and use that since it shouldn't react with the plastic lens, gently wiping it so as not to scratch the lens. Hope you have better luck then me
Aug 08, 2011, 08:29 AM
Bombs away!!!
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
Has anyone used Amazon to buy the #11 camera? The specs all seem the same as the Hong Kong retailers on Ebay. I read the reports in the beginning threads about fake ones.
Aug 08, 2011, 10:55 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by modea2
I've just had a similar problem with my #11 camera. A black mark appeared near the centre of the video which had moved with each video I took. I tried cleaning the lens with a cloth - no good, tried a lens cleaning solution - no good. In desperation I dis-assembled the unit to see if I could unscrew the lens and in doing so I have totalled it! (now dead). I think my problem was that some microscopic piece of black plastic became lodged between the lens and sensor. However, for your problem I would buy some industrial alcohol and use that since it shouldn't react with the plastic lens, gently wiping it so as not to scratch the lens. Hope you have better luck then me
Thanks a lot, I'll try that!
Using alcohol sounds safer than using acetone
Aug 08, 2011, 11:29 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by newer
Hello everyone!

I am sorry if it has been asked before, but how do you clean the lens of this keycam?

I got some sticky glue from a duct tape on glass lens of my keycam, is there any way to clean it off?

I am not sure if I can use acetone on it, if the lens is made out of plastic it might melt or something
How in the world did you get duct tape to even come in contact with the lens with it recessed back in its plastic threaded boss, and that recessed back in it's plastic case? Oh well... that's another story and not important! Get some lens cleaning solution and lens cleaning tissue, sold at photo/camera shops, or if none close by, get some isopropyl alcohol at the local drug store. Moisten tissue sparingly with the cleaning solution and gently wipe the lens surface with it. I don't know if these cleaning liquids will cut whatever adhesive you've got on the lens, but it should be safe to use.
Aug 08, 2011, 11:31 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by quitcherbitchen
Has anyone used Amazon to buy the #11 camera? The specs all seem the same as the Hong Kong retailers on Ebay. I read the reports in the beginning threads about fake ones.
Post the link you are referring to on Amazon. It's not been sold via that outlet, but maybe someone is buying from the same China developer, and reselling them.
Aug 08, 2011, 11:34 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredle
Could be - I've had some input in another forum. Paint on the inside edge may have been the wrong way to go - I've got to order some new blades now to give it another try.

Thanks,
Fred
Paint can be easily sanded off. The key thing is to have a good balancer that centers the prop on it the shaft. The ones that use magnetic suspension are the best.
Aug 08, 2011, 12:24 PM
TREES!!! Ouch!!!
ROCKY2's Avatar
here is a video from my #11 yesterday
FPV Breaking Formations (3 min 41 sec)
Aug 08, 2011, 01:13 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar

#11HD camera "On sale" ???


I just got an email this AM from one of the listed eBay sellers about a "big sale" of the #11 HD. I don't know if this is true or not... the links provided don't seem to show discounted prices. I sent back an email for clarification... no reply yet. FYI... here is the text from the email FWIW:
So sorry to disturb you,i'm the service of the ebay shop "eletech086" http://stores.ebay.co.uk/eletech086 here is our website linking : www.htinter.com

Be grateful to all the valued customers the support and help ,and Our corporate company restructuring .we make the big discount for some HD 808 #11 cameras,pls refer to our ebay store and have a look,thank you.

Big discount for the #11 HD 808 camera !!! From 8th August to 20th August!!! pls help us to tell your friends or other people around you about this Promotion,thank you.

our boss,he is 34 years old,a young guy,who is the #11 HD camera developer,also my unclue (i'm really pride of him) ,till Dec 2010,he developed the #11 camera,and he does better and better in the future.if you want to share some suggestions or any comments,pls just e-mail to us,we're sincerely hope that we have more chances to make this item better and better in the future.

If you want to get some information about the #11 camera,pls feel free to contact with us,my uncle and i are alwayes here with you.


Any questions,just e-mail to us.

Have a nice day!



May you have a wonderful day,and welcome to our store again!Thankyou.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/eletech086




Best Regards

eletech086

Gmail:eleaccstore168@gmail.com

Tel:0752-2562509

MSN: emma19880329@msn.cn

Skype: emma.yuan1988


Hongbin Yuan

C1108 Shuxinju

Jinhuixinyuan

No.104 Eling South Rd

Huizhou city, Guangdong province

China

0752-2562509
Aug 08, 2011, 01:27 PM
Registered User
At the risk of double posting from another thread I made the attached with a #11 camera with which I'm very happy.

Untitled (3 min 15 sec)


Cheers
Aug 08, 2011, 02:42 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
here is the text from the email FWIW:
It's better to remove the personal info like phone-numbers, msn, email.
Aug 08, 2011, 03:10 PM
Bombs away!!!
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
Here is the link for Amazon for the #11 camera

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...efix=808+hd+11
Aug 08, 2011, 06:01 PM
Registered User
bobflyman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by quitcherbitchen
Here is the link for Amazon for the #11 camera

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...efix=808+hd+11
I doubt that is really the HD version of the key chain cam at that price? Be nice if it was true. Have you bought one?
Aug 08, 2011, 06:08 PM
Master Of My Universe
scotsoft's Avatar
It isn't it quotes 640 x 480 video, it quotes VGA 1280 x 960 but that is for pictures not video - sorry to disappoint you


Quote:
Originally Posted by quitcherbitchen
Here is the link for Amazon for the #11 camera

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...efix=808+hd+11
Aug 08, 2011, 06:52 PM
Bombs away!!!
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman
I doubt that is really the HD version of the key chain cam at that price? Be nice if it was true. Have you bought one?
No I have not, I just notice that Ebay dominates the thread and I was wondering if Amazon had the same product. I never have been a Ebay fan, but if everyone's happy with the Huizhou City product then I guess that's where I need to buy it. I do some import business with China, only in textiles. I know all the hazards of dealing with the wrong factory. By the way, everybody in China claims they are the owner of the factory or a relative there of. The important thing is the product.
Aug 08, 2011, 06:53 PM
I can fix it.
nageotte's Avatar

Help. Is it broken?


I got the #11 and used it three times with good results. I went to use it today and I push the power button, get the yellow light and a short flash. The yellow light then remains on and I push the shutter button, nothing happens. Yellow light remains lit. Now what?
Aug 08, 2011, 06:58 PM
TREES!!! Ouch!!!
ROCKY2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nageotte
I got the #11 and used it three times with good results. I went to use it today and I push the power button, get the yellow light and a short flash. The yellow light then remains on and I push the shutter button, nothing happens. Yellow light remains lit. Now what?
try re flashing the firmwhare from www.techmoan.com or try the reset botton
Aug 08, 2011, 07:04 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROCKY2
here is a video from my #11 yesterday
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-mQb9Me7Y8
Just a couple of observations.

Nice smooth flying for the most part.

I don't like it when folks chase birds.
It's probably better for everyone if we try to blend in and fly with them instead of at them. If everyone starts harassing birds it will become harder and harder to film them flying comforably around our planes. Further, some rabid environmentalist may see this and appear at a local council meeting, write a letter to the local newspaper and....next thing you know.....local ordinance no. 5-00-999-69 prohibits flying RC planes at the beach.

If they want to fly at your plane, that's probably ok. They usually realize that the plane is not afraid or an enemy, and after that they either respect it or ignore it.

It looks like the lens has a haze on it. Perhaps salt air condensing on it and then evaporating when the camera warms up. Leaves a film.

A good practice, especially near the ocean, is to leave the electronics in the car for a while, out of the salt air, until it warms up. Once it is warm the moisture will not condense on the lens and fog it up. If the lens stays dry it will be less likely to pick up salt particles floating in the air. This stuff can also build up on the RC electronics and cause corrosion.

Nice video otherwise!
Last edited by JumpySticks; Aug 08, 2011 at 07:20 PM.
Aug 08, 2011, 07:47 PM
TREES!!! Ouch!!!
ROCKY2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks
Just a couple of observations.

Nice smooth flying for the most part.

I don't like it when folks chase birds.
It's probably better for everyone if we try to blend in and fly with them instead of at them. If everyone starts harassing birds it will become harder and harder to film them flying comforably around our planes. Further, some rabid environmentalist may see this and appear at a local council meeting, write a letter to the local newspaper and....next thing you know.....local ordinance no. 5-00-999-69 prohibits flying RC planes at the beach.

If they want to fly at your plane, that's probably ok. They usually realize that the plane is not afraid or an enemy, and after that they either respect it or ignore it.

It looks like the lens has a haze on it. Perhaps salt air condensing on it and then evaporating when the camera warms up. Leaves a film.

A good practice, especially near the ocean, is to leave the electronics in the car for a while, out of the salt air, until it warms up. Once it is warm the moisture will not condense on the lens and fog it up. If the lens stays dry it will be less likely to pick up salt particles floating in the air. This stuff can also build up on the RC electronics and cause corrosion.

Nice video otherwise!
thanks for your comment um the plane and camara where in the car for at least an hour while i surfed....i think the problem with my camara is at the end of this video i think it was damaged you can see how clear it is
La Bufadora baja california mexico ritewing zephyr fpv crash (1 min 51 sec)
Aug 08, 2011, 08:01 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROCKY2
thanks for your comment um the plane and camara where in the car for at least an hour while i surfed....i think the problem with my camara is at the end of this video i think it was damaged you can see how clear it is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYlV7xbR2HQ
Uhhh...that explains a lot of things.
Aug 08, 2011, 08:03 PM
TREES!!! Ouch!!!
ROCKY2's Avatar
[QUOTE=JumpySticks;18993466]Uhhh...that explains a lot of things.[/QUOTE

haha does it?
Aug 08, 2011, 10:16 PM
Stick banger
Ace4's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos
Slightly OT with current posts but, has anyone had an email response back from either eletop or htinter?

I've mailed the former about a no-show and the latter (twice) about a potential DOA. Over a week has gone by and neither have responded.
I'm also waiting for a reply from eletoponline365 as well about camera problems. If I don't get any sort of response after a week, I'll be leaving negative feedback and contacting paypal.
Aug 09, 2011, 02:07 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by newer
Thanks a lot, I'll try that!
Using alcohol sounds safer than using acetone
In addition to Tom's tip about using isopropyl alcohol from the local drug store, when using cleaning fluids you should always apply from below. i.e. with the lens pointing downwards. This will prevent the alcohol from getting onto the CMOS sensor (gravity!).
Pure Isopropyl alcohol is wonderful stuff for cleaning lenses and electronic parts, but if you've got sticky gunk on your lens you may have to use a few Q-Tips soaked in isopropyl alcohol (keep the lens pointed downwards!).
We used to use it for cleaning magnetic tape heads, in the good old days when tapes were used for data storage.
I always have a bottle on my desk. You can also clean your office phone or your keyboard with it. I even use it to clean my plastic mouse pad. It's not a "gunk" solvent, but it's a good cleaner for small parts

Do not use acetone! Acetone will dissolve plastic. Never use acetone on plastic - never. Acetone is good for cleaning up flux from printed circuit boards, or generally cleaning printed circuit boards before/after soldering or prior to sealing.
Acetone should never come into contact with plastic though - the #11 lens is plastic!
Aug 09, 2011, 02:25 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos
Slightly OT with current posts but, has anyone had an email response back from either eletop or htinter?

I've mailed the former about a no-show and the latter (twice) about a potential DOA. Over a week has gone by and neither have responded.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace4
I'm also waiting for a reply from eletoponline365 as well about camera problems. If I don't get any sort of response after a week, I'll be leaving negative feedback and contacting paypal.
I thought the cameras were always sent by registered mail, in which case this is a postal problem.

However, not replying to email is not a good sign. I too am waiting for a reply from eletoponline365, so I hope the sellers don't degrade their up-to-now excellent reputation by not replying to emails...
Aug 09, 2011, 04:24 AM
Registered User

My HD Key cam stopped recording after 20 minutes


It just automatically shut down after 20-minute of recording.
It didn't continue recording as a separate file but just shut down completely.
The battery did not run out becuase the power went back on after I pressed the button.
Does anyone have the same problem?
Any suggestion on how to fix it?

btw, I did update my firmware to release 2.
Aug 09, 2011, 04:35 AM
Registered User
I ordered a regular keyfob from the htinter website and a jumbo from the eletoponline365 ebay store on 16th July.

Both of these appear as eletoponline365 in my paypal account, which would indicate it's the same people.

The htinter fob was delivered to the UK in approx 2 weeks. I have been emailing them since day 2 regarding image distortion, which I believe to be a fault (see my previous posts), but so far no response.

I am still waiting for the jumbo from the ebay store and they haven't responded to my messages.

Yesterday, I sent a general enquiry to hxelepro360 about stock and delivery times. Diana has since replied twice, giving camera advice, and also explaining that the delays were due to increased security during the world university games currently taking place in china.
Aug 09, 2011, 06:28 AM
Inspector Gadget
Quote:
Originally Posted by nageotte
I got the #11 and used it three times with good results. I went to use it today and I push the power button, get the yellow light and a short flash. The yellow light then remains on and I push the shutter button, nothing happens. Yellow light remains lit. Now what?
The same fault as mine now! But I thought I'd ruined mine while I was trying to unscrew the lens to clean behind it. Could I try re-flashing?, I suppose I've nothing to lose?
(I've already tried the reset button).
Last edited by modea2; Aug 09, 2011 at 06:35 AM.
Aug 09, 2011, 06:42 AM
I can fix it.
nageotte's Avatar

Common prolem


Quote:
Originally Posted by modea2
The same fault as mine now! But I thought I'd ruined mine while I was trying to unscrew the lens to clean behind it. Could I try re-flashing?, I suppose I've nothing to lose?
(I've already tried the reset button).
This may be a common problem. I have had other reports. Anyone else? Wonder if the vendor can help at all.
Aug 09, 2011, 09:28 AM
Inspector Gadget
Quote:
Originally Posted by nageotte
This may be a common problem. I have had other reports. Anyone else? Wonder if the vendor can help at all.
Very Interesting! Perhaps my problem with the cam was not dirt after all then?
I'm going to try a re-flash al-la the "Techmoan" site. I'll report if it fixes the problem.
Aug 09, 2011, 10:10 AM
Wannabe B-26 pilot!
Matt Halton's Avatar
I just received mine and made a quick recording in the garden. I must say I am extremely impressed with the quality but time will tell if it holds up. Amazing diffrence between this and my other non-HD keychain cam.

Matt
Aug 09, 2011, 12:02 PM
utx
utx
Registered User

Charger detection - use standard USB charger to charge while recording


I researched the camera circuit a bit and created a modification that allows to switch between USB modes and recording while charging automatically. My V2 camera can use the standard car power supply now and charges during recording (the battery is not nearly depleted after car recording). When connected to the computer, it switches to the USB Mass Storage Mode as it did before.

I just created a small detection board and wired it inside the camera. It would be especially useful for people with a V2 or older, but it would allow people with V3 to use a standard charger.

hardware modification
Aug 09, 2011, 02:15 PM
Registered User
Bill Smudge's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos
Slightly OT with current posts but, has anyone had an email response back from either eletop or htinter?

I've mailed the former about a no-show and the latter (twice) about a potential DOA. Over a week has gone by and neither have responded.
You may want to check and make sure your email provider is not blocking messages from eletop or htinter as spam, I have egg on my face this week because I thought headsuprc was not responding to my emails, they were but my emial provider blocked their messages as spam, just a thought...


bill
Aug 09, 2011, 03:48 PM
Registered User
One more idea to power the 720p camera is to solder a servo wire to where the battery was connected to and connect it to your receiver, I've done it dozens of times with 5-5.5v power and its worked flawlessly...

Does anyone know a way how to make these internal batteries last longer than 2 or 3 months ? (I wish mine lasted that long) I imagine since it has a software on/off switch it always has a tiny drain on the battery.
Aug 09, 2011, 03:53 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by utx
I researched the camera circuit a bit and created a modification that allows to switch between USB modes and recording while charging automatically. My V2 camera can use the standard car power supply now and charges during recording (the battery is not nearly depleted after car recording). When connected to the computer, it switches to the USB Mass Storage Mode as it did before.

I just created a small detection board and wired it inside the camera. It would be especially useful for people with a V2 or older, but it would allow people with V3 to use a standard charger.

hardware modification
I can only say WOW!

You are amazing! Excellent description, and very well written article. I love it.

I am very tempted to try your modification, but as I see it, you can't etch this tiny board yourself. Am I right? I have never attempted etching boards for SMD components with amateur equipment (i.e. ferric acid, or similar in a tray). Getting it commercially etched would most probably cost as much as the camera itself. So, did you etch it yourself?
Aug 09, 2011, 04:38 PM
utx
utx
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop
I am very tempted to try your modification, but as I see it, you can't etch this tiny board yourself. Am I right? I have never attempted etching boards for SMD components with amateur equipment (i.e. ferric acid, or similar in a tray). Getting it commercially etched would most probably cost as much as the camera itself. So, did you etch it yourself?
Netto price of all parts used is about 80 cents and the board was completely done at home. If you look at the detail of the board, you can see no-copper-bubbles caused by the bad coverage of the photoresist spray - an apparent sign of hobby work. (This is my second SMD board ever done.)

Semiconductors are from Farnell (Newark, if you are in the USA, or Digikey). Passive parts were purchased as a kit of several thousands pieces from a Chinese seller on Ebay. (If you plan to do more experiments, it makes no sense to buy passive parts in pieces - price may easily differ 100 times. I made pcb with a photoresist spray and a template on transparent film. (Laser printers manufactured before year 2000 are probably the best choice, as they do not have advanced toner saving and black patterns have better opacity than modern printers have.) Then it was developed and etched in ferric acid. Then I tested UV curable soldering mask for the first time, Then I manually applied a soldering paste and placed parts with tweezers.

And finally I did a reflow. There is nothing special here. Just see a photo of my SMD reflow equipment: a hotplate of an old gas oven, a cheap infrared thermometer. The only more expensive tool is the nice gas soldering iron kit Portasol Pro Piezo (~$100).

I want to prepare and article about that. (When it appears, then it will be added to Related on my web.)

Well, I spent days by reading articles before I started to play with SMD parts and this is my early experiment. But now I am not dependent only on the stuff manufacturers do for us.

If there would be more people who want to use this board, it could make sense to create a batch (PCB or the whole board) from a professional company.
Aug 09, 2011, 06:07 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos
I ordered a regular keyfob from the htinter website and a jumbo from the eletoponline365 ebay store on 16th July.
...
Yesterday, I sent a general enquiry to hxelepro360 about stock and delivery times. Diana has since replied twice, giving camera advice, and also explaining that the delays were due to increased security during the world university games currently taking place in china.
Apparently you didn't read my post about the shipping delays...


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