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Old Jun 22, 2011, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbite View Post
From the picture, it appears that the cells are wired in series.
So, that would only be 2600 mah, wouldn't it?
I think that only the voltage would be multiplied by four, not the mah.
I guess you could rewire it to make it parallel to get the higher capacity, but then the voltage would be X 1. Is that high enough?
If you went to the bother to rewire it, it might be easier to just make your own box out of scrap, eh?

Walt
The above is completely wrong. It is a USB power supply that has to provide 5V power so it has a regulator. It might not be 10400mah but it will definitely be a lot more than 2600mah whether they are in series or parallel. To me they look parallel but who knows.
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Old Jun 22, 2011, 06:47 PM
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Disregard this whole post!

Itīs most definitely wired in series. The 18650 LiOn cells are 1,2 V and since USB is 5 V you need to connect the cells in series: 1.2V X 4=4.8V. The regulator probably step the voltage up .2V and also keep the voltage up until the cells are completely empty since the voltage normally drops with usage.

The capacity is depending of the LiOn, if they are say 1500 mAh each the pack will also have 1500 mAh. If you want 4 X 1500 mAh (5000 mAh) you connect the cells in parallel but then you would only have 1.2V.

Easiest way to get more capacity would in my opinion be to splice in a battery connector between the camera and the battery pack. This way you can have several batteries and as high mAh as you want!
Last edited by Paxman; Jun 22, 2011 at 07:11 PM.
Old Jun 22, 2011, 06:49 PM
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Itīs most definitely wired in series. Itīs clearly made for AA batteries and since USB is 5 V you need to connect the batteries in series: 1.5V X 4=5V.
The capacity is depending of the AAīs, if they are say 1500 mAh each the pack will also have 1500 mAh.

If you want 4 X 1500 mAh (5000 mAh) you connect the batteries in parallel but then you would only have 1.5V.
It's clearly made for AA batteries when it doesn't state such ANYWHERE in the link? Are you sure you are looking at the same ebay auction that was linked? It even states in the TITLE that it is for 18650 batteries.
Old Jun 22, 2011, 06:50 PM
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Which is probably the best software for editing videos, for best results (don't care if it's payable? (I read all from post #3 : Video Editing)

many thanks
Old Jun 22, 2011, 07:01 PM
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This one is wired parallel. LION is 3.7-4.2v. If cells are 2500ma X 4=10000ma.

Here is one wired 2 cell in series X 2 parallel.


http://cgi.ebay.com/260767418465?ru=...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1
Old Jun 22, 2011, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paxman View Post
Itīs most definitely wired in series. The 18650 LiOn cells are 1,2 V and since USB is 5 V you need to connect the cells in series: 1.2V X 4=4.8V. The regulator probably step the voltage up .2V and also keep the voltage up until the cells are completely empty since the voltage normally drops with usage.

The capacity is depending of the LiOn, if they are say 1500 mAh each the pack will also have 1500 mAh. If you want 4 X 1500 mAh (5000 mAh) you connect the cells in parallel but then you would only have 1.2V.

Easiest way to get more capacity would in my opinion be to splice in a battery connector between the camera and the battery pack. This way you can have several batteries and as high mAh as you want!

LION's are 3.7-4.2v

Pack is parallel wired, so it stays 3.7-4.2v, and you add up all mah of batteries.

Has DC-DC booster to take it up to 5v for usb out connector.


Link to second one I showed takes 9v input to charge, which is right for the 2 paralleled cells.
Last edited by RcNutDave; Jun 22, 2011 at 07:25 PM.
Old Jun 22, 2011, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by xamindar View Post
It's clearly made for AA batteries when it doesn't state such ANYWHERE in the link? Are you sure you are looking at the same ebay auction that was linked? It even states in the TITLE that it is for 18650 batteries.
Sorry...I edited my post when you wrote this. Itīs really late here i Sweden and I should have been in bed long time ago! I should also have checked the voltage on the LiOn...I withdraw all my previous statements and heads to bed!
Old Jun 22, 2011, 07:11 PM
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Sorry...I edited my post when you wrote this. Itīs really late here i Sweden and I should have been in bed long time ago! I should also have checked the voltage on the LiOn...I withdraw all my previous statements and heads to bed!

I see you have been into the marmalade nectar again.
We understand. Don't forget to cork the jug!!!!
Goodnight Pax, sleep tight!!
Last edited by RcNutDave; Jun 22, 2011 at 07:29 PM.
Old Jun 22, 2011, 07:19 PM
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I actually order 1 of each to test them out.


Anyone know of a software program that monitors usb power, (volts-amps) and displays onscreen?

Would be nice to monitor usb when charging all my keycams, watching volt/amp trends especially at cutoff.
Old Jun 22, 2011, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RcNutDave View Post
I actually order 1 of each to test them out.


Anyone know of a software program that monitors usb power, (volts-amps) and displays onscreen?

Would be nice to monitor usb when charging all my keycams, watching volt/amp trends especially at cutoff.
The only way of monitoring the camera battery voltage/current is to cut in to the camera battery wire with something like the Eagletree charger monitor, and even that will be affected by the protection circuit fitted INSIDE the battery itself.
Monitoring the 'USB' voltage and current will not tell you what is happening because there is a Lipo (lion) charge controller chip on the camera PCB.
To emulate a USB supply, the power supply should give 5v, but the lions only give 3-4.2 volts, so there is a step up circuit with unknown regulation characteristics - nightmare scenario time as we don't know how much current the camera itself is using - internal clock is always 'on' , and what mode is the camera in?
Mike
Last edited by empeabee; Jun 22, 2011 at 07:50 PM. Reason: clarification
Old Jun 22, 2011, 07:54 PM
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Editor


Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
Which is probably the best software for editing videos, for best results (don't care if it's payable? (I read all from post #3 : Video Editing)

many thanks
HEY reptor.
I use COREL VIDEO STUDIO PRO X2.
Works perfectly with the files from #11,s, and lots of features.
Make sure to check if your computer is compatible.
The latest version is X4.
Watch on line at the Corel site for sales.

RUD
Old Jun 22, 2011, 08:42 PM
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im not sure if i posted this but the whole thing was shot using the #11 hd keychain cam http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AwPiLdxfB4 and was edited using X4
Old Jun 22, 2011, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by wfvn View Post
Why such a mount? Do your video's vibrate to much?

I use my camera's on my velomobile (recumbent tricycle with fairing). My camera's are placed directly on the fairing (okay, I made a pad with 2 magnets which sticks to the fairing and the camera sits on the pad with velcro). I expected a lot of vibrations because of the road surface but non of that.

(there is movement from side to side because of me using my legs to pedal but you need a very large mount to get that movement out of the movie)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceQA6NSwcBs

Some pictures can be found here:
http://velomobielfan.blogspot.com/20...-monteren.html
WOW, how do you guys deal with words like "schokbestendigheid"? Holy shyte!
Old Jun 22, 2011, 10:23 PM
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.. pictures of the finished bike:

http://velomobielfan.blogspot.com/20...hem-quemo.html

..
Thanks for the detailed explanation on the continuous record set up.. .. and wow is that ever a cool looking bike.. i bet it turns a lot of heads. We have .. or perhaps I should say, we did have a lot of clown fish here in San Diego.. JimS
Old Jun 22, 2011, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
To emulate a USB supply, the power supply should give 5v, but the lions only give 3-4.2 volts, so there is a step up circuit with unknown regulation characteristics - nightmare scenario time as we don't know how much current the camera itself is using - internal clock is always 'on' , and what mode is the camera in?
Mike

Thats exactly why I'm looking for some kind of USB monitoring program.
Old Jun 22, 2011, 10:59 PM
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Empeabee,

The easiest way to emulate a USB power supply is with one of these:

1.5V to 5V USB Power Inverter

Even though it says 1.5V, it will actually take anywhere from 1.2V to 4.5V DC and provide a stable 5V DC at 300mA (up to 0.5A max) to a USB port.

Jaybee!

Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
To emulate a USB supply, the power supply should give 5v, but the lions only give 3-4.2 volts, so there is a step up circuit with unknown regulation characteristics - nightmare scenario time as we don't know how much current the camera itself is using - internal clock is always 'on' , and what mode is the camera in?
Mike
Old Jun 22, 2011, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaybee View Post
Empeabee,

The easiest way to emulate a USB power supply is with one of these:

1.5V to 5V USB Power Inverter

Even though it says 1.5V, it will actually take anywhere from 1.2V to 4.5V DC and provide a stable 5V DC at 300mA (up to 0.5A max) to a USB port.

Jaybee!
Already have emulaters, looking for a USB Monitor Program to monitor voltage and amperage from-to USB port.

Read my post 4909
Old Jun 22, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Ah, got it.

I just noticed your other post about wishing to know the 'on' and standby current.

(I shall read up some more before replying next time.)

Jaybee

Quote:
Originally Posted by RcNutDave View Post
Already have emulaters, looking for a USB Monitor Program to monitor voltage and amperage from-to USB port.

Read my post 4909
Old Jun 23, 2011, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ROCKY2 View Post
im not sure if i posted this but the whole thing was shot using the #11 hd keychain cam http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AwPiLdxfB4 and was edited using X4
Excellent Plane made out of cardboard???
Old Jun 23, 2011, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RUDDERLESS View Post
HEY reptor.
I use COREL VIDEO STUDIO PRO X2.
Works perfectly with the files from #11,s, and lots of features.
Make sure to check if your computer is compatible.
The latest version is X4.
Watch on line at the Corel site for sales.

RUD
Thanks I will try when I get it
Old Jun 23, 2011, 05:56 AM
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Yes, and Yes!
Thanks Tom
Old Jun 23, 2011, 09:40 AM
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sent PM
Mike
Old Jun 23, 2011, 09:45 AM
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How do you mount this cam on multi rotors, or heli; to reduce vibration? I see only one picture in this thread, can anyone else post it?
Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:29 AM
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some more video shot with thr #11
fpv really nice morning powered by dragon link uhf fpv (2 min 52 sec)
Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:35 AM
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@ROCKY2 how do you get 1080p if this cam is max 720p?
Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:48 AM
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@ROCKY2 how do you get 1080p if this cam is max 720p?
He doesn't, he is just doing something wrong when he re-encodes the video before uploading it to youtube.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:56 AM
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He doesn't, he is just doing something wrong when he re-encodes the video before uploading it to youtube.
ya its just when i render it it comes out in 1080 but its not
Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:56 AM
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@ROCKY2 how do you get 1080p if this cam is max 720p?
seethe anotation on the left of the vid
Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:57 AM
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seethe anotation on the left of the vid
Ooo, I missed that; nice video btw, dragon link is powerful
Old Jun 23, 2011, 04:09 PM
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ActionCam


ActionCam seems to be an 808 #11 camera with a mounting kit.

OMG $139.95

http://ped-products.com/index.php?di...product_id=121
Old Jun 23, 2011, 04:22 PM
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ActionCam seems to be an 808 #11 camera with a mounting kit.

OMG $139.95

http://ped-products.com/index.php?di...product_id=121
Lol, they are dreaming at that price. I wonder if they would be willing to sell just the mount for say $5?
Old Jun 23, 2011, 04:38 PM
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Yes I also need just mount any pictures of "home made" mounts?
Old Jun 23, 2011, 04:46 PM
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Lol, they are dreaming at that price. I wonder if they would be willing to sell just the mount for say $5?
You've got to be kidding! $5 for just the mount? They'll be crazy to sell it at that price. Keep in mind we know the camera is (let's say) $40. That leaves $80 for the mount.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 04:47 PM
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You've got to be kidding! $5 for just the mount? They'll be crazy to sell it at that price. Keep in mind we know the camera is (let's say) $40. That leaves $80 for the mount.

Ye sure, this guy have profit 80$!!
Old Jun 23, 2011, 05:07 PM
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PRICE DROP::::$119

Get them now at reduced price
Old Jun 23, 2011, 05:09 PM
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Haha, lol
Old Jun 23, 2011, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
5/27/2011 Update:

The firmware in folders for "Remove Time" and "Continuous Recording and Remove Time" that were posted on 5/20/2011 were reversed! This has now been corrected as of this date. If you downloaded the either of these two folders prior to this date, please down load these two folders again so they contain the correct firmware files.

5/20/2011 UPDATE:

New Release 2 firmware NOW AVAILABLE.

The firmware we have been using up until today (Release 1) is now considered obsolete and is replaced with Release 2 Firmware (attached below). I have removed Release 1 from download availability here to avoid confusion and future problems. If you are still running Release 1 and need one of the old firmware files from that series, PM me.

The new firmware IS NOT INTERCHANGABLE with the prior Release 1 firmware, so do not try it. YOU CAN overwrite the old Release 1 firmware with the new Release 2, but you cannot do the opposite. Release 1 will load over Release 2 and run, but strange things can result, like the video frame size might be reduced down to a very high resolution 320 x 240 size like it did on my camera. Fortunately re-installing Release 2 will restore normal operation, and Release 2 has all the functionality of Release 1, plus it has added better color saturation control. So there is no reason to not install Release 2 unless there is something about Release 1 you can't part with.

Release 2 has just three firmware files:

1. Remove Time: Erases the visible time/date stamp from the video. Recording will stop/save/continue at 20 minute intervals

2. Continuous Recording & Remove Time: This is suppose to remove the time stamp and enable recording to continue without stopping until the flash memory card is full or the 4GB file size limit of the FAT32 file system is reached. With the latter, the recording will stop, saving the file to the flash card. It is suppose to then continue with a new 4GB file, but this part is currently non-functional. It will be fixed soon to continue with a new recording with only a several second delay.

3. Recover Time: Restores the time/data stamp on the video and the 20 min. stop/save/continue recording function.

All firmware has the improved exposure control from Release 1, and adds improved color saturation control. Any further improvements will be only be added to Release 2 firmware. The firmware is installed exactly like the prior ones. The following self-extracting zipped archives contain each of the firmware files in their own folders for identifcation since they are all named the same like the prior firmware:
Hi Tom
I feel that I've got to write to you to thank you for the above info, I've now done 2 of my #11 key cams and it worked perfectly both times, I only wish somebody could come up with the same type of file to do the same to my #8 cameras, as the #11 was so easy to do.
many thanks
Ray Kyte.
PS I hope somebody soon comes up with the updated file so that the camera will restart after 4gb.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 05:58 PM
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Please TOM
help me...I tried to put the new firmware on my KEYCAM, but now all is off.
If I connect the camera to USB it stay 2 minutes with the led red and after that all is off.There are not any kind of sign of live.
It mean s that I have to forget the Keycam?
I follow the instruction, put the firmware inside the SD card with the SDreader,put the sd inside the camera, switch on the camera but nothing happen and nothing on and now this is the condition.
Whta Can I do?
Thanks
Gianni
Old Jun 23, 2011, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GIANNI63 View Post
Please TOM
help me...I tried to put the new firmware on my KEYCAM, but now all is off.
If I connect the camera to USB it stay 2 minutes with the led red and after that all is off.There are not any kind of sign of live.
It mean s that I have to forget the Keycam?
I follow the instruction, put the firmware inside the SD card with the SDreader,put the sd inside the camera, switch on the camera but nothing happen and nothing on and now this is the condition.
Whta Can I do?
Thanks
Gianni
It's not clear if you have done the steps listed in the FAQs link in post #3. Always look there first for help.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by reptor View Post
Ye sure, this guy have profit 80$!!
You jump to so many conclusions. This web source is selling from the US... important to some. That costs money to ship them here. The developer cannot make the mounts for free! That costs something. And he has devoted time to develop and set up manufacturing of the mounts. That's worth something. Is the price unreasonably high for this... maybe, but the free market will determine that.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 09:23 PM
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Haha, lol
Please... save replies like this for PM to the original post. It adds nothing to the thread!
Old Jun 24, 2011, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You jump to so many conclusions. This web source is selling from the US... important to some. That costs money to ship them here. The developer cannot make the mounts for free! That costs something. And he has devoted time to develop and set up manufacturing of the mounts. That's worth something. Is the price unreasonably high for this... maybe, but the free market will determine that.
Blah, blah, blah...We were all just poking fun. No need to be so serious.

On the subject of mounts, has anyone made a waterproof case for these? I think I read about using a tic-tac case, will that do?
Old Jun 24, 2011, 01:58 AM
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Jims123 has shot underwater footage from the keel of his RC sailboat. See post 2967 and I know that others have used the tic tac case as well.
Head
Old Jun 24, 2011, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by headlessagain View Post
Jims123 has shot underwater footage from the keel of his RC sailboat. See post 2967 and I know that others have used the tic tac case as well.
Head
TicTac fits very well, the bigger box even when an angled USB connector is plugged in. However....... the video suffers from a lot of 'fog' in Dutch: it is 'condens'

TicTac behuizing en condens (0 min 45 sec)


First part is when I just left work. Some water gets on the class which I glued over the hole I made in the TicTac box in front of the lens.
Later on visability is good but the camera sees nearly nothing.

Same rout, different moments but with even more problems:

Compilatie Creatieve weggebruikers (1 min 43 sec)


Perhaps I can try 'anti-fog' like stuff you put on the inside of visors of motorcycle helmets.

pictures of my tic-tac boxes in:
http://velomobielfan.blogspot.com/20...ger-maken.html

pictures are without the glass in front of the lens. I attached it later on. I used a piece of glass you use for microscopes; the rectangular glass you put the thing on you want to examen (objectglas in dutch); the bigger one in the photo below:

Last edited by wfvn; Jun 24, 2011 at 05:37 AM.
Old Jun 24, 2011, 06:06 AM
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Why you use "tic-tac" box, instead just camera housing?
Old Jun 24, 2011, 06:29 AM
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Tom,
I read what you suggest but nothing change,also if the led become red when I connect to the PC by USB nothing change.
The camera is totally dead.
Please help me.
Thanks
Gianni
Old Jun 24, 2011, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by xamindar View Post
Blah, blah, blah...We were all just poking fun. No need to be so serious.
In my humble opinion, I believe that it is his thread - he puts LOTS of work into it to make it very useful - it is his call to make if he wants the thread to not contain trivial comments including levity that makes the thread harder to read to extract useful facts - he alone should set the tone for the thread.
And it would be appropriate for him to flag THIS message as unwanted if he sees fit.

Walt
Old Jun 24, 2011, 07:01 AM
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Why you use "tic-tac" box, instead just camera housing?
I prefer just the camera housing. However, the camera housing isn't exactly water tight. So in (heavy) rain I like to keep the camera dry AND working.
Old Jun 24, 2011, 09:46 AM
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I got mine this morning, it does not have the date displayed and I did not ask him to remove it


Quote:
Originally Posted by rwingvr6 View Post
Nope, I didn't ask them to delete it. I didn't check if the 20 thing is on there but I probably won't shoot more than 20 minutes at a time either.
I got it from this guy. http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-HD-DV-key-c...item2561584a5a
Old Jun 24, 2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by headlessagain View Post
Jims123 has shot underwater footage from the keel of his RC sailboat. See post 2967 and I know that others have used the tic tac case as well.
Head

That reminds me. I'd forgot about the project.. those videos were shot thru a small plastic bag..and were a little fuzzy, but I really want to try the u/w baggies I made with a glass lens cut from a microscope slide.. soon as get the courage and can test one or two with an No3 That pond has almost no sea life in it at all..so I am looking for a better place to shoot it too..
Old Jun 24, 2011, 10:32 AM
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That reminds me. I'd forgot about the project.. those videos were shot thru a small plastic bag..and were a little fuzzy, but I really want to try the u/w baggies I made with a glass lens cut from a microscope slide.. soon as get the courage and can test one or two with an No3 That pond has almost no sea life in it at all..so I am looking for a better place to shoot it too..
So that's the name: microscope slide

I wonder if you also experience 'foggy' videos. Another possible solution came to me: use silicagel or silica pebbles
Old Jun 24, 2011, 04:07 PM
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I've just finished my first mount, machined out of nylon it weighs 7g. I'll attach it to the plane with a velcro patch the same diameter as the base giving a manual pan and tilt facility. Its a shame that something like this is not included with the camera, injection moulded it would only cost pence to make.
Old Jun 24, 2011, 05:07 PM
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Wow that's what I need! Can you make any pieces for sale? Or any additional alternative?
Old Jun 24, 2011, 06:23 PM
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In my humble opinion, I believe that it is his thread - he puts LOTS of work into it to make it very useful - it is his call to make if he wants the thread to not contain trivial comments including levity that makes the thread harder to read to extract useful facts - he alone should set the tone for the thread.
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And it would be appropriate for him to flag THIS message as unwanted if he sees fit.

Walt
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Old Jun 24, 2011, 06:26 PM
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use silicagel or silica pebbles
silica gel
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Old Jun 24, 2011, 06:29 PM
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I've just finished my first mount, machined out of nylon it weighs 7g. I'll attach it to the plane with a velcro patch the same diameter as the base giving a manual pan and tilt facility. Its a shame that something like this is not included with the camera, injection moulded it would only cost pence to make.
Brilliant
Mike
Old Jun 24, 2011, 07:38 PM
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Blah, blah, blah...We were all just poking fun. No need to be so serious.
...
I want to keep this thread from turning into a twitter blog of
use useless drivel! That is not only not helpful, it's boring!
Old Jun 24, 2011, 07:42 PM
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Tom,

Your work and dedication to this thread is most appeciated and I thank you for your unpaid effort as "thread boss."

Bill
Old Jun 24, 2011, 07:44 PM
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Tom,
I read what you suggest but nothing change,also if the led become red when I connect to the PC by USB nothing change.
The camera is totally dead.
Please help me.
Thanks
Gianni
I've posted in the FAQs all the things that have been done to get a non-functional camera working. Have you tried to flash in new (Release 2) firmware again. Will the camera do that when you turn it on and push the power button (sounds like ii won't). If that's the case and you have tried the battery total disconnect/reconnect trick, and still nothing, then I'd suggest you contact your eBay seller and ask for a replacement. You'll need to send the old one back to do that.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 24, 2011 at 07:59 PM.
Old Jun 24, 2011, 09:23 PM
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Holder


Made mine out of aluminum.
See post below for pic,s and video.
I put velcro on the bottom of the mount, didn't want velcro on the camera.
Might use it as, oh I don't know..... A SPY CAMERA.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...h#post18129162

RUD
Old Jun 25, 2011, 11:11 AM
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Two of my #11 cameras are now down to about 15 minutes recording time, and one degraded very rapidly to about 2 minutes, so I have ordered replacement batteries from hxelepro@gmail.com. Does anyone know if these replacement batteries have the little charging circuit board attached, or do you need to reuse the old one? (Since I don't really have the equipment or the eyes for working on such tiny boards, I'm hoping I can just cut the wires and splice in the new batteries.)
Old Jun 25, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Does anyone know if these replacement batteries have the little charging circuit board attached, or do you need to reuse the old one?
They are the same as the originals, including the circuit board and red and black wires. I received my two spare batteries just this week, from the same vendor.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 12:31 PM
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Different interpretation of continuous recording


This is my first post, and I would like to thank Tom for his great work in providing firmwares to customize 808 #11 camera.

In terms of the features in the firmware, I am most curious about the continuous recording. In the description of firmware post, it seems to imply that instead of chopping up the file at 1Gb size, it will record up to 4Gb, and so on, until the memory card is full.

In my mind, the continuous recording is more like you can keep recording the files in 1Gb size, but once it depletes memory, it will simply delete the oldest video and start a new recording there. That way, if we are on a long road trip (assume we use it as a driving recorder), we don't have to keep taking out the memory card after awhile (i.e. 80 min for a 4Gb card).

So as a feature request, is it possible to have some type of continuous recording even after memory is full?

Thanks a bunch!
Last edited by otherworldliness; Jun 25, 2011 at 12:34 PM. Reason: link for the firmware post
Old Jun 25, 2011, 01:07 PM
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I had a problem with my camera today. I turned on the camera and the yellow light came on. I pushed the record button and the yellow light went off. I launched my Radian Pro, flew for 15 min or so and landed. I stopped the recording and the yellow light came on as usual. I turned off the camera and went home. When I viewed the recording only the last minute or so recorded. Anybody have an idea as to what happened?
Old Jun 25, 2011, 02:46 PM
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Hi all, thanks for all the information posted!
I was wondering if you could help though. I have a #11 and have found video appears a little dark, unless the sky is quite bright. This wasn't the case with my old #3. Would the new firmware improve this? Also, I know there can be no guarantees but I was also wondering if anyone knew how likely my camera would be to accept the new firmware. Perhaps someone has purchased the same item?
It was listed as HD DV LENS Video Camera DVR Flying Camcorder 720P #11, the seller was eletoponline365 and I ordered it in may 2011.
Many thanks!
Old Jun 25, 2011, 04:39 PM
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They are the same as the originals, including the circuit board and red and black wires. I received my two spare batteries just this week, from the same vendor.
I found it easier to unwrap the tape around the old/new batteries at the end, and unsolder/solder the wires already attached to the camera to the small circuit board from/to the battery circuit boards. There more room to maneuver and no need to cut, strip, heat shrink two splices in the wires.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 25, 2011 at 04:43 PM. Reason: revised to reflect cutting/splicing question
Old Jun 25, 2011, 04:50 PM
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Got my #11 camera airborne this morning for the first time - first flight of my Easy Star as well. I had a lot of fun.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this great thread and a special thank you to Tom Frank for all his hard work!
Here's the video:

Easy Star Maiden Flight (5 min 30 sec)
Old Jun 25, 2011, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by otherworldliness View Post
This is my first post, and I would like to thank Tom for his great work in providing firmwares to customize 808 #11 camera.

In terms of the features in the firmware, I am most curious about the continuous recording. In the description of firmware post, it seems to imply that instead of chopping up the file at 1Gb size, it will record up to 4Gb, and so on, until the memory card is full.

In my mind, the continuous recording is more like you can keep recording the files in 1Gb size, but once it depletes memory, it will simply delete the oldest video and start a new recording there. That way, if we are on a long road trip (assume we use it as a driving recorder), we don't have to keep taking out the memory card after awhile (i.e. 80 min for a 4Gb card).

So as a feature request, is it possible to have some type of continuous recording even after memory is full?

Thanks a bunch!
Welcome to the thread. It might be possible and has been brought up here before. It's something that is only useful for certain applications, though, since many (me included) don't want to risk losing an earlier recording on the card for the applications we use this camera for (i.e. aerial video from RC planes). I've only been pushing in this thread for basic improvements in the video quality and fixing the existing continuous recording bug since that impacts the most users. But you can pass on other feature requests via the eBay sellers who work closely with the developer. More input from those paths may get more attention.

One interim solution is to use a larger memory card, e.g. 32GB card would give close to 10 hours of video... a long day on the road!
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 25, 2011 at 05:15 PM.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dmoshiloh View Post
I had a problem with my camera today. I turned on the camera and the yellow light came on. I pushed the record button and the yellow light went off. I launched my Radian Pro, flew for 15 min or so and landed. I stopped the recording and the yellow light came on as usual. I turned off the camera and went home. When I viewed the recording only the last minute or so recorded. Anybody have an idea as to what happened?
You may have a portion of the file corrupted to prevent display of some of the video. What is the file size of that 15 min. clip? Do you get just one min. of playback or 14 min. of nothing (sound?), then one min. of video at the end? Also, what program are you using to play back the video? The freeware VLC player will sometimes play video that other programs will not.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 25, 2011 at 05:58 PM.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bluedex View Post
Hi all, thanks for all the information posted!
I was wondering if you could help though. I have a #11 and have found video appears a little dark, unless the sky is quite bright. This wasn't the case with my old #3. Would the new firmware improve this? Also, I know there can be no guarantees but I was also wondering if anyone knew how likely my camera would be to accept the new firmware. Perhaps someone has purchased the same item?
It was listed as HD DV LENS Video Camera DVR Flying Camcorder 720P #11, the seller was eletoponline365 and I ordered it in may 2011.
Many thanks!
The #11 is radically different from all the other "808" cameras, hence this special thread for it. Your questions are answered in the FAQs link in post #3. Always go there first when questions come up. Your camera should accept the new Release 2 firmware just fine, but you probably already have one of that release installed, and I don't think you'll see any difference. You can always jack up the brightness during post-processing with an editor.

If you posted an example video we could see better if your camera is normal or not.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 25, 2011 at 05:57 PM.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 05:23 PM
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I found it easier to unwrap the tape around the old/new batteries at the end, and unsolder/solder the wires already attached to the camera to the small circuit board from/to the battery circuit boards. There more room to maneuver and no need to cut, strip, heat shrink two splices in the wires.
Thanks for the tip, Tom. I'm gonna use it when it's time to replace the original battery.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 05:55 PM
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Thanks for the tip, Tom. I'm gonna use it when it's time to replace the original battery.
Your post prompted me to look at the battery replacement FAQ in Post #3 and it was lacking info on this aspect, so I updated that link at the same time.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 06:14 PM
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Bob, if you do a similar mod for the HD Key Cam, if you will document the process as it applies specifically to this cam, hopefully with some good pictures, we will have a good tutorial for others to follow easier. I can then post a link to your new post.

FWIW, a different way to get simulated "timelapse" photography is by shooting regular video, then editing it to play back at much higher frame rate. WLMM allows for a 64x speed up! The disadvantage is your recording time is much more limited, but the plus side is that the motion is very smooth!. When we get the promised continuous recording firmware patch, the 20 min. segments the cam now records won't be a factor, but even with those brief (3-4 Sec.) gaps at 64X playback speed it would likely not be very noticeable. The HD key cam with external power source and a 32 GB flash card could record for about 10 hours with the camera shooting at 6500 kbps video data rate.

Here's a sample 30 minute clip, played back in about 30 sec.:

http://www.vimeo.com/12528601
I am looking to do this. Does anyone know of software which can speed up the frame rate of an existing video file to create a time lapse movie? I do not have windows 7....only xp, so I do not have WLMM. I doesn't seem like it should be complex software. It could simply grab every 100th frame or so.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I found it easier to unwrap the tape around the old/new batteries at the end, and unsolder/solder the wires already attached to the camera to the small circuit board from/to the battery circuit boards. There more room to maneuver and no need to cut, strip, heat shrink two splices in the wires.
Thanks, Tom. One more question: I just tried to open a camera to take a look at those soldering pads (they look pretty small and close together in your photos), but the camera didn't seem to want to pop open easily, and it felt like it might break if I try to pry it open. Have you found a safe and easy procedure to open the cases?
Old Jun 25, 2011, 06:53 PM
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Don't want to be OT, but this is a frame grab from the HK HD Wing cam. The lens tube is about 7mm threaded. I like it because no vignetting, but it does curve the horizon
Old Jun 25, 2011, 07:43 PM
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Thanks, Tom. One more question: I just tried to open a camera to take a look at those soldering pads (they look pretty small and close together in your photos), but the camera didn't seem to want to pop open easily, and it felt like it might break if I try to pry it open. Have you found a safe and easy procedure to open the cases?
Did you remove those two itty bitty screws by where the keychain attaches?
Old Jun 25, 2011, 08:12 PM
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I am looking to do this. Does anyone know of software which can speed up the frame rate of an existing video file to create a time lapse movie? I do not have windows 7....only xp, so I do not have WLMM. I doesn't seem like it should be complex software. It could simply grab every 100th frame or so.
That would give very jerky playback of faster moving items, like real TL video, but maybe that is what you want? Many editors (including some free ones) give the option of re-encoding the source video at accelerated frame rates, making much faster but also smooth video playback. AviDemux (free), for example, can out put the 30 fps native video at up to 199 fps, for a speed up of 6.6 times. And Vdub can go much faster, but you must first convert the video to .AVI format to load the video into it. And mute any sound before you do this if the editor doesn't do it for you.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 08:14 PM
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LOL - I took apart a #1 and a #3 years ago.
BUT when I started looking at taking the #11 apart I forgot completely about those little screws - easy to miss
Old Jun 25, 2011, 08:25 PM
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That would give very jerky playback of faster moving items, like real TL video, but maybe that is what you want? Many editors (including some free ones) give the option of re-encoding the source video at accelerated frame rates, making much faster but also smooth video playback. AviDemux (free), for example, can out put the 30 fps native video at up to 199 fps, for a speed up of 6.6 times. And Vdub can go much faster, but you must first convert the video to .AVI format to load the video into it. And mute any sound before you do this if the editor doesn't do it for you.
Thank you very much Mr. Frank!
Old Jun 25, 2011, 09:27 PM
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Did you remove those two itty bitty screws by where the keychain attaches?
Ah... didn't notice them.
Old Jun 25, 2011, 11:56 PM
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You may have a portion of the file corrupted to prevent display of some of the video. What is the file size of that 15 min. clip? Do you get just one min. of playback or 14 min. of nothing (sound?), then one min. of video at the end? Also, what program are you using to play back the video? The freeware VLC player will sometimes play video that other programs will not.
The file size is 85 mb. There is only one minute of playback. I'm using Quicktime to view the file.
Old Jun 26, 2011, 01:33 AM
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Thank you for the response


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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Welcome to the thread. It might be possible and has been brought up here before. It's something that is only useful for certain applications, though, since many (me included) don't want to risk losing an earlier recording on the card for the applications we use this camera for (i.e. aerial video from RC planes). I've only been pushing in this thread for basic improvements in the video quality and fixing the existing continuous recording bug since that impacts the most users. But you can pass on other feature requests via the eBay sellers who work closely with the developer. More input from those paths may get more attention.

One interim solution is to use a larger memory card, e.g. 32GB card would give close to 10 hours of video... a long day on the road!
Tom,

I took your suggestion and sent ebay seller the feature request.
On a related note, would you be interested to post a tutorial on how you modified the firmware? Is it entirely modified in raw assembly language or is there some type of decompiler to modify the firmware at your own will?

I am just wondering just how difficult it is to change firmware. I never wrote anything in assembly language. The closest thing I did was in C or C++, but always love to fiddle around to learn a thing or two. So any pointers from you are greatly appreciated!

Enjoy your weekend!
Old Jun 26, 2011, 01:54 AM
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Tom,

I took your suggestion and sent ebay seller the feature request.
On a related note, would you be interested to post a tutorial on how you modified the firmware? Is it entirely modified in raw assembly language or is there some type of decompiler to modify the firmware at your own will?

I am just wondering just how difficult it is to change firmware. I never wrote anything in assembly language. The closest thing I did was in C or C++, but always love to fiddle around to learn a thing or two. So any pointers from you are greatly appreciated!

Enjoy your weekend!
I did not modify any of the firmware, nor is it possible to do by hacking the .bin file. All the firmware revisions I have posted I got from the developer and/or my eBay vendor. So any changes must come from the developer as well, and being a small company and working on new cameras, they don't have much time to devote to our whims.

I do think they could fix the bug fairly easily in the Continuous Recording firmware, though, since the original Release 1 version already had that functional. Beyond that, getting the camera to hold it's white balance through different exposure levels is my first want, then diminishing the color saturatation a couple of notches so colors look more natural. After that, I'd be happy assuming they can't find a better lens to eliminate the edge vignetting.
Old Jun 26, 2011, 01:59 AM
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The file size is 85 mb. There is only one minute of playback. I'm using Quicktime to view the file.
OK... interesting. There's one more possibility that could do this, and maybe you can confirm based on what is in the 1 min. clip of yours.

If the camera battery were very low when you started to record, it could have captured the first minute then closed the file on low battery power. Then, with the recording stopped, the battery recovers a bit of voltage, and has enough power to light the LED when you push the button to stop the recording (but the recording had stopped 14 min. earlier on low voltage). If this were the case, your video would show the first minute of your recording, not the last minute. What does your recording show?
Old Jun 26, 2011, 02:06 AM
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Don't want to be OT, but this is a frame grab from the HK HD Wing cam. The lens tube is about 7mm threaded. I like it because no vignetting, but it does curve the horizon
If that lens tube has a 7mm thread, it might fit in a #11 if the pitch is right! A bit of a pain to try it though. I've thought a wider angle lens could help fix the #11 vignetting, but I've not been able to find a source.

Also, the #11 has an IR filter on the rear element of the lens, not in the lens holder over the CMOS. So finding one with an IR filter adds to the problem.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 26, 2011 at 01:19 PM. Reason: spelling
Old Jun 26, 2011, 09:31 AM
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OK... interesting. There's one more possibility that could do this, and maybe you can confirm based on what is in the 1 min. clip of yours.

If the camera battery were very low when you started to record, it could have captured the first minute then closed the file on low battery power. Then, with the recording stopped, the battery recovers a bit of voltage, and has enough power to light the LED when you push the button to stop the recording (but the recording had stopped 14 min. earlier on low voltage). If this were the case, your video would show the first minute of your recording, not the last minute. What does your recording show?
It only shows the last minute of flight. The battery was fully charged when I started. I later filmed several short clips and a longer 15 minute clip at home and there was no problem. Previous to the flight in question, I had deleted several files from the 8Gb card. I don't know if this would cause a problem with recording. Also one other file would not play because of a corrupted part of the file, but it would not play any of the file. I just can't figure out how it started recording the end of the flight and none of the beginning.
Old Jun 26, 2011, 11:50 AM
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It only shows the last minute of flight. The battery was fully charged when I started. I later filmed several short clips and a longer 15 minute clip at home and there was no problem. Previous to the flight in question, I had deleted several files from the 8Gb card. I don't know if this would cause a problem with recording. Also one other file would not play because of a corrupted part of the file, but it would not play any of the file. I just can't figure out how it started recording the end of the flight and none of the beginning.
This is a weird one.. I've often wondered if folks just make up these brain teasers for you Tom but also realized some are are just so odd they couldn't be making this stuff up... awaiting your reply..JiMS
Old Jun 26, 2011, 01:13 PM
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It only shows the last minute of flight. The battery was fully charged when I started. I later filmed several short clips and a longer 15 minute clip at home and there was no problem. Previous to the flight in question, I had deleted several files from the 8Gb card. I don't know if this would cause a problem with recording. Also one other file would not play because of a corrupted part of the file, but it would not play any of the file. I just can't figure out how it started recording the end of the flight and none of the beginning.
OK... so it's an intermittant problem. Deleting files from the card should not affect anything. It sounds like perhaps the card memory space is corrupted. Have you checked your memory card's integrity or tried a different card?

Try re-formatting your flash memory card using the SDformatter utility, then testing the memory using the H2testw utility. Both are free downloads (Google for download sites). Once you have confirmed the memory card is good and it still does this with different cards, it must be some problem with the camera circuitry. But I'd try reflashing in the firmware as a last resort. I'd ask for a replacement if you can't get it resolved.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 26, 2011 at 01:20 PM.
Old Jun 26, 2011, 03:39 PM
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My important file got broken. After normal recoding, I connected the micro sd card with a card reader. My windows 7 shows the summary of the card "2.45GB free of 3.67GB", but no video file in the folder at all. This is the first time happen to me. I use 2nd version of the date-remove & continuous firmware. The video was taken for about 15 minutes after full charge. Class4 micro SD card was formatted right before taken the video.
Is there any known procedure to get the video file out of my card?
Old Jun 26, 2011, 04:35 PM
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My important file got broken. After normal recoding, I connected the micro sd card with a card reader. My windows 7 shows the summary of the card "2.45GB free of 3.67GB", but no video file in the folder at all. This is the first time happen to me. I use 2nd version of the date-remove & continuous firmware. The video was taken for about 15 minutes after full charge. Class4 micro SD card was formatted right before taken the video.
Is there any known procedure to get the video file out of my card?
The used space on the card looks about right for a 15 min. video, so the file may just not have been properly closed for some reason. You can try to use a file recovery utility... a number of free ones available on the internet. I use one called "recova" (Google for a download site) which works very well for deleted files. But I have not needed to use it for files which may have not been properly closed for some reason. If you try it and it works, please post back here. Good luck!
Old Jun 26, 2011, 04:43 PM
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I'm demo'ing a video editor which has the ability of making time lapse out of regular video. I took a 1.5 hour drive from yesterday and compressed it to 8 minutes (1000%) at excellent quality. Reads and saves lots of different formats.
It's not free, but I think I may get it. It's VideoPad. Found it at CNet. Corel has one that will also compress, but no try before buy, so I walked.
Old Jun 26, 2011, 06:13 PM
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I'm demo'ing a video editor which has the ability of making time lapse out of regular video. I took a 1.5 hour drive from yesterday and compressed it to 8 minutes (1000%) at excellent quality. Reads and saves lots of different formats.
It's not free, but I think I may get it. It's VideoPad. Found it at CNet. Corel has one that will also compress, but no try before buy, so I walked.
I recently used VideoPad for it's two week trial period. It has some nice easy to use features, but there's better editors for the money. After two weeks, the free trial just eliminates use of third party filters, and limits the output format to .AVI and .WMV/ASF formats. All other functions are intact, so there is no need to purchase this program if your conversion just uses the frame rate toggle when you output the file. The downside is you must also re-encode the video, which makes a slow editor excruciatingly slow!

Freeware like Vdub can do this conversion by direct copying the original video with no re-encoding, so the conversion is done in just a matter of seconds rather than hours (unless you found a different way to do this in Videopad). And you can convert the #11 .mov file to .avi (to import into Vdub) by direct copying in a matter of seconds using the MP4cam2AVI converter.

Unless you are also wanting to do some other editing with VideoPad that cannot be done with Vdub (like transitions and titles), these no advantage to using VideoPad, and a big disadvantage (speed) if you do. YMMV
Old Jun 26, 2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I recently used VideoPad for it's two week trial period. It has some nice easy to use features, but there's better editors for the money. After two weeks, the free trial just eliminates use of third party filters, and limits the output format to .AVI and .WMV/ASF formats. All other functions are intact, so there is no need to purchase this program if your conversion just uses the frame rate toggle when you output the file. The downside is you must also re-encode the video, which makes a slow editor excruciatingly slow!

Freeware like Vdub can do this conversion by direct copying the original video with no re-encoding, so the conversion is done in just a matter of seconds rather than hours (unless you found a different way to do this in Videopad). And you can convert the #11 .mov file to .avi (to import into Vdub) by direct copying in a matter of seconds using the MP4cam2AVI converter.

Unless you are also wanting to do some other editing with VideoPad that cannot be done with Vdub (like transitions and titles), these no advantage to using VideoPad, and a big disadvantage (speed) if you do. YMMV
Wow, thanks for the excellent information. Yes, the conversion was an hour long process. I will give Vdub another try.
Old Jun 26, 2011, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Wow, thanks for the excellent information. Yes, the conversion was an hour long process. I will give Vdub another try.
Check the video editing links in teh FAQs (post #3) for more info on MPcam2AVI and Vdub.

I converted a native 20 min. #11 video from .mov to .avi using the MP4camtoAvi utility to get a lossless .AVI file (took 4 secs. to convert), then importing that into Vdub, and exporting with video set for "Direct Copy", NO audio, and frame rate set to 338 fps (to get the same speedup you referenced), which took 34 sec. So about 1 minute to produce that sped-up file even with the program changes.

The playback with WMP was jerky on my PC, which has a lot of memory and a fast video card, probably because the native h.264 video codec over taxed my system playing back at the fast rate. I did not have this problem when I converted an H.264 video to a .WMV file playing at 64x normal speed with a WLMM converted file!

<edit> WHOA! I rebooted my system because it was sluggish on several tasks I had running. Now after a reboot to clean up my system, that sped-up file plays back at full speed with no pauses whatsoever! <edit>
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 26, 2011 at 10:56 PM.
Old Jun 26, 2011, 10:59 PM
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I took my camera out today after upgrading to continuous recording & remove time release 2. I had a 4gb card in and it only did 31 minutes at 1.54gb and then shut off.

Is there anything I can do to get it to keep recording? Should I change to the stop/save/continue one?
Old Jun 26, 2011, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ca323 View Post
I took my camera out today after upgrading to continuous recording & remove time release 2. I had a 4gb card in and it only did 31 minutes at 1.54gb and then shut off.

Is there anything I can do to get it to keep recording? Should I change to the stop/save/continue one?
NO, the firmware would go until the 4GB files size is reached IF your camera had enough power. If you are using the "regular" #11 camera (not the jumbo with the larger internal battery), then your recording stopped because the internal battery was exhausted. The internal battery is only good for 30-40 minutes of recording. You need external battery power to record for longer periods. This information is in the camera specs and details in post #2... you did read that first didn't you?
Old Jun 26, 2011, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Check the video editing links in teh FAQs (post #3) for more info on MPcam2AVI and Vdub.

I converted a native 20 min. #11 video from .mov to .avi using the MP4camtoAvi utility to get a lossless .AVI file (took 4 secs. to convert), then importing that into Vdub, and exporting with video set for "Direct Copy", NO audio, and frame rate set to 338 fps (to get the same speedup you referenced), which took 34 sec. So about 1 minute to produce that sped-up file even with the program changes.

The playback with WMP was jerky on my PC, which has a lot of memory and a fast video card, probably because the native h.264 video codec over taxed my system playing back at the fast rate. I did not have this problem when I converted an H.264 video to a .WMV file playing at 64x normal speed with a WLMM converted file!

<edit> WHOA! I rebooted my system because it was sluggish on several tasks I had running. Now after a reboot to clean up my system, that sped-up file plays back at full speed with no pauses whatsoever! <edit>
Got your post edit. That sounds great. I will go back to the video editing faq post and....read it again!

Thanks again for the help!
Old Jun 27, 2011, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The used space on the card looks about right for a 15 min. video, so the file may just not have been properly closed for some reason. You can try to use a file recovery utility... a number of free ones available on the internet. I use one called "recova" (Google for a download site) which works very well for deleted files. But I have not needed to use it for files which may have not been properly closed for some reason. If you try it and it works, please post back here. Good luck!
No luck with the file recovery software including "Recuva". However, I am able to recover my video file using just plain "CHKDSK /F". It convert the whole folder into a file named "100MEDIA" without any extension. I manually adding ".MOV" extension so I can double click the video file to run in the players. Few seconds at the beginning of the video isn't viewable but at least I get most of it out. Thanks Tom for pointing me around this direction.
Old Jun 27, 2011, 06:58 AM
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I am now able to charge with a standard USB charger and record at once with my V2 camera! Just a small hardware modification (one 0R resistor removal) was needed: http://www.penguin.cz/~utx/hardware/...e_modification

The current camera circuit switches to mass storage or webcam mode whenever power supply appears on pin 1 of the USB connector. I plan to do more experiments and change the circuit to switch to USB mass storage or webcam mode only if USB data lines are wired to a real USB host. It is not so elegant as firmware change, but my camera would be fully charged after car ride recording aswell.

After this first step my camera never switches to USB mass storage nor webcam modes.
Old Jun 27, 2011, 11:09 AM
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I have been researching this little gadget and I would like to buy one to mount to my rc car and rc plane. If anyone knows where to get one that is a little bit cheaper than 40$ please pm me.


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