Originally Posted by zrobbie

Tom, I was referring to post 4222 where he says: ... just received the #11 cam that works great, nice picture .... I updated the cam, the time stamp is gone but now my videos are crap. Grass is now blue and sky is white, the rest of the colors are weird too.

and post 4087 where he says: ... upload the new continuous recording & remove time - release 2 firmware.... This is very fustrating and sometimes i see so crappy quality, what i never from this camera...

Maybe their problems were unrelated to the firmware upgrade, but they sounded like the upgrade caused the problem ???

The new firmware does not do anything like he describes, at least not with my camera. And until I see some sample video to show what he is talking about, I have no idea what he is seeing.

There has been video posted here after the new firmware has been installed, so take a look. Colors have always been, and still are, quite over-saturated. And in certain lighting conditons where white balance changes along with lighting exposure/changes, the combination, though momentary, can look unnatural for a second or so. But again, these problems are not new with the new firmware or we would be seeing and hearing alot more feedback. Could be something specific to his camera?

I have received now my replacement of my faulty #11 cam.
Last one did not save every time the videos.

This time i got a HD Key Cam with firmware release 2 but this time the time is running 6 times faster than normal.
Not much luck with this cam from powerdigital898.

I have tried already the tricks, with depleting the battery, but that does not help.
I have now flashed the continuous firmware release 2, with no time stamp.

So my cam should work okay, is that right?
(file date will be wrong, but i don't care about that)


the one i bought from hxelepro360 did work from the beginning perfect.
I will update here the firmware from release 1 to 2 later.

Hi guys,

Just received another camera today and I compared the two and there is a different board layout.

I will upload pictures later as I am at work at the moment.

Originally Posted by Dee404

Hi guys,

Just received another camera today and I compared the two and there is a different board layout.

I will upload pictures later as I am at work at the moment.

Interestiing! This might be part of the recent issue where the vendors said camera production had been delayed because there had been some production problems with the circuit boards. This would only be the second version of the circuit board that I'm aware of, but calling this a version 3 camera would be appropriate since v2 had the CMOS module change.

If you can, please post some good pictures of both sides of the circuit board similar to what is in Post #2 (showing part numbers on the larger ICs and CMOS ribbon cable if possible). Thanks for the heads-up!

I hope it's not going to be a progression of inferior versions like what happened to the #1-10 cameras.

Originally Posted by xamindar

I hope it's not going to be a progression of inferior versions like what happened to the #1-10 cameras.

The #11HD seems to be all from one developer/source. I don't think that was the case with all the old 808 VGA resolution cameras, plus the #11 developers are actually listening to user feedback and trying to make improvements based on that input. That was definitely not the case with the old 808s.

I started this separate thread for the #11 because it doesn't belong in any kind of functional association with the old 808's. If it weren't for the same case design, there would be no similarity at all.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Isoprop,

EXCELLENT tool! Works perfectly on my W7(64 bit) PC with US date format. Bravo!

I have one suggestion, and that is to show the removable drive logical name along with the drive letter if you can access that. It could replace the FAT32 label which doesn't help me that much for identifying the correct removable drive. E.g. When plugged into my PC, my camera shows up as drive I, with the "HD KeyCam" name I gave it. As is, I need to open "my computer" to see the connected drives to make sure I pick the right one. I guess if there's only one removeable drive connected, it's not a big deal, though!

I'll post a link to your page with the download link, so please keep that page link intact if you make any changes to the program. Thanks for whipping this up so quickly and so nicely implemented!

I have one suggestion. Can you replace the FAT32 tag with the logical drive name given to the removable drive by the user? That will help identify the correct drive if there is more than one plugged in at the time. E.G. When I plug in my camera, "my computer" folder shows the drive as I: HD KeyCam, tha latter portion being the name I assigned to that device.

Originally Posted by jantares

Your application on my computer is working properly. I use Windows XP SP3 date of the Polish system. When you switch it to a check for U.S. date system is also OK :-)
The script provided by Tom Frank I can not work properly. It was good when switched to the U.S. date system.
Both programs "AutoTimeSet_EU.exe" from Tom Frank also did not work for me. He showed the message that the program is not a valid Win32 application.

Thank you Tom for testing and your suggestions, and thank you jantares for testing in Poland.
I have updated the version and removed the BETA status.

The new version V.1.0.0.2 shows the Volume ID (if available) together with the size of the disk and the free space. I have used 1024 Bytes to represent 1KB etc. which should be in line with the latest Microsoft Operating Systems.
The disk drive letter in the list control is deliberately shown before the Volume ID because I use the colon in the second position to differentiate between a disk drive and an error message (quick-and-dirty trick).

You may also connect the camera after starting the program. The program handles the Windows notification message by reloading all the removable disk drives.

When you start the program, the time is the current time plus 30 seconds. This should be enough to select the Drive, write the data, turn off the camera and disconnect, and finally turn on the camera. The camera time should now be pretty accurate!

I have also added some short instructions and features to advance/retard the time by 1 minute. There is also a button to reload the current time.
I hope I haven't made this program too complicated (please shout if you want me to make things simpler), and I have avoided color because of the color-blind members!

As always, there may be a bug or two hidden somewhere, so please post any findings in this forum. I have not had the time to fully test all conditions that may arise. Suggestions are always welcome.

I have updated my original posting in order to keep the links intact.

BTW, should someone have an appropriate freeware icon (16x16 AND 32x32) for this program please PM me. I'm hopeless at designing icons

Here's a screenshot of the latest version:

Thanks Tom...you are a life saver...just made the mistake of trying the update with the older firmwares. all good now though! cheers

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

5/27/2011 Update:

The firmware in folders for "Remove Time" and "Continuous Recording and Remove Time" that were posted on 5/20/2011 were reversed! This has now been corrected as of this date. If you downloaded the either of these two folders prior to this date, please down load these two folders again so they contain the correct firmware files.

5/20/2011 UPDATE:

New Release 2 firmware NOW AVAILABLE.

The firmware we have been using up until today (Release 1) is now considered obsolete and is replaced with Release 2 Firmware (attached below). I have removed Release 1 from download availability here to avoid confusion and future problems. If you are still running Release 1 and need one of the old firmware files from that series, PM me.

The new firmware IS NOT INTERCHANGABLE with the prior Release 1 firmware, so do not try it. YOU CAN overwrite the old Release 1 firmware with the new Release 2, but you cannot do the opposite. Release 1 will load over Release 2 and run, but strange things can result, like the video frame size might be reduced down to a very high resolution 320 x 240 size like it did on my camera. Fortunately re-installing Release 2 will restore normal operation, and Release 2 has all the functionality of Release 1, plus it has added better color saturation control. So there is no reason to not install Release 2 unless there is something about Release 1 you can't part with.

Release 2 has just three firmware files:

1. Remove Time: Erases the visible time/date stamp from the video. Recording will stop/save/continue at 20 minute intervals

2. Continuous Recording & Remove Time: , and enables recording to continue without stopping until the flash memory card is full or the 4GB file size limit of the FAT32 file system is reached. The latter will save then continue recording.

3. Recover Time: Restores the time/data stamp on the video and the 20 min. stop/save/continue recording function.

All firmware has the improved exposure control from Release 1, and adds improved color saturation control. Any further improvements will be only be added to Release 2 firmware. The firmware is installed exactly like the prior ones. The following self-extracting zipped archives contain each of the firmware files in their own folders for identifcation since they are all named the same like the prior firmware:

Originally Posted by Isoprop

..
Here's a screenshot of the latest version:

Iso,
This utility looks pretty cool. I might even try it once it's ready for distro..
Might i suggest adding a No 7 in the instructions tho..

"7.) Test results by taking a short video clip and reconnect the No 11. to confirm the time and date of the .mov and its displayed video is set properly.. If so, remove the timeset.txt file from the root of the keycam folder. If not Blame IsoProp, send $20 and he'll fixit. or a $5.00 donation and he'll sympathize "

Originally Posted by Stuart B

Thanks Tom...you are a life saver...just made the mistake of trying the update with the older firmwares. all good now though! cheers

Hi Stuart, Did you shoot a video after flashing Release 1 over Release 2. I'm curious if you got a small 320x240 hi-res video like I did?

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

..." plus the #11 developers are actually listening to user feedback and trying to make improvements based on that input. ...

Tom,
can you whip up a simple table or list of what you and others here may have already asked them to look at fixing or improving .. and a projected probability or priority.. it could save re-submissions if we knew what's already inconsideration.. I hope they can try to make the No 11. cams stop distorting the audio output when the battery gets low, and to blink the RED charge LED while the recording is running... are these two on the list? can you maintain a bug tracker and wish-list? JimS

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Hi Stuart, Did you shoot a video after flashing Release 1 over Release 2. I'm curious if you got a small 320x240 hi-res video like I did?

I did, because i don't know that i had release 2 and got the 320x240 resolution after flash with release 1.
After that, i though there may be something wrong and come here again and read up the latest post since my last post, to find out, that fortunately nothing is lost.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

...
When you start the program, the time is the current time plus 30 seconds. This should be enough to select the Drive, write the data, turn off the camera and disconnect, and finally turn on the camera. The camera time should now be pretty accurate!

I have also added some short instructions and features to advance/retard the time by 1 minute. There is also a button to reload the current time.
I hope I haven't made this program too complicated (please shout if you want me to make things simpler), and I have avoided color because of the color-blind members!
...

Hi Isoprop,

Super! The 30+ sec. default time is pretty handy for me... just right for trying to sync the time closely with the PC time. I just used the increment/decrement toggles in the time display box on the beta version, which works OK, too, but now that is not necessary. For me that kind of makes the +/- one minute buttons somewhat redundant. So eliminating them to simplify the display wouldn't make the program any less useful for me, but having them is also no problem.

I also like having the current time displayed and the reload button in case the phone rings in the middle of time setting! And thanks for adding the volume label!

I like the way you have error-trapped the common things that could cause a person problems. I worked for some time in process safety when I was working, and the key was not figuring out how to make something work... that was the easy part. The hard part was anticipating all the things that could go wrong and cause it NOT to work as expected... and maybe go boom in the night!

With that in mind, one final comment on instruction #5 "Turn off camera and unplug it." As long as the camera is plugged in and connected as a flash drive, there is no way to turn it off. So maybe this should just say "Unplug the camera and wait to the yellow LED to turn off" so someone doesn't go bonkers trying to turn it off before unplugging?

To be totally correct, I should probably say the safest procedure would be to first toggle the small USB icon in the PC system tray to "safely remove hardware and eject media"! But for this simple task of writing a tiny text file to the camera, that just adds another degree of complexity which in this case is not necessary. I just unplug the camera!

Here you go guys.





Here they are next to each other.





The CMOS has the same markings, the mic is bigger and there are a few components mounted in different locations.

There are definitely a few more components on the board now. I wonder what they will improve.

Originally Posted by Dee404

There are definitely a few more components on the board now. I wonder what they will improve.

excellent side by side comparison,, can you see any difference in the video .. do you still hear the audio beeps at the end as the battery begins to fail?, just curious.. JimS

Originally Posted by jims123

excellent side by side comparison,, can you see any difference in the video .. do you still hear the audio beeps at the end as the battery begins to fail?, just curious.. JimS

I've not been able to do any comparisons yet. Sadly my version 2 when faulty before the version 3 had arrived.

I did a couple of videos in my car with the v2 I'll do some with the v3 and see what differences there are.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Hi Stuart, Did you shoot a video after flashing Release 1 over Release 2. I'm curious if you got a small 320x240 hi-res video like I did?

Yeah it was 320x240. Also if using a version with time on, the time was massive and staggered across the screen.

seems to be working fine now with the continuous no time.

Whats the battery life on these? I just got about 45 minutes.

Stu

Originally Posted by Dee404

There are definitely a few more components on the board now. I wonder what they will improve.

For easier ID of the apparent changes, I combined your top/bottom pics into one image (attached), and circled the components that are new or visually different in size or orientation. Thanks for uploading sharp pictures.

I have no idea what the changes do, but most are near the battery charging IC and USB plug, so maybe something to do with charging/external power? Maybe filtering out the intermittant low battery voltage buzz that occurs on some clips? Maybe a new electret mic with less very low frequency response so road noise clipping (assuming that is the cause) static when driving is eliminated? The CMOS module and video processor chip are the same as v2, so I don't anticipate any changes in the video.

Originally Posted by Stuart B

Yeah it was 320x240. Also if using a version with time on, the time was massive and staggered across the screen.

seems to be working fine now with the continuous no time.

Whats the battery life on these? I just got about 45 minutes.

Stu

OK, thanks. My time stamp was turned off, so I didn't see that artifact. Sounds like it's consistent otherwise.

Your battery life is as good as it gets with a healthy stock battery.

I see a difference in USB pin 4 (dedicated powering) wiring - it is wired to "0" (resistor jumper - just a piece of wire manufactured as a SMD part). Could you trace its connection? Is it still wired to the (large) Schottky diode in front of it?

On the reverse side I see part labelled "KL3" - most probably dual Schottky diode (BAT54C or CDBV3-54).

Can you check your new V3 car charger pinout and voltage? Does the charging LED light while powered via pin 4 and battery is depleted?

I see a change in the soldering points of the camera soldering points connector. Guessing that it was done to simplify soldering. (Guessing that the whole PCB is assembled by machine but the camera module is soldered manually afterwards.)

And finally I see change in orientation of transistors(?) nearby the camera soldering points.

Regarding the old version, comparing them I see one slight difference: If you look at Schottky diode near pin 1 of USB connector and you find a small part near its soldering point on the distant side from pin 1 - some of cameras (including my one) have there a resistor, some of them have there only a drop of tin.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

OK, thanks. My time stamp was turned off, so I didn't see that artifact. Sounds like it's consistent otherwise.

Your battery life is as good as it gets with a healthy stock battery.

Cheers Tom

Hi Guys,

I received one of these cameras a couple of weeks ago but it was Dead on arrival. It seemed to charge but wouldn't turn on. Tried most of the tricks but it wouldn't fire up. In any case I received a replacement which I'm really happy with.

Since I had a replacement I decided to take it apart and have a look in side. I was looking at the components on the PCB using a magnifying glass and noticed one of the legs from the capacitor closest to the Camera had broken away from the PCB. I carefully soldered it and it works Now! So I have two.

Guess my point being if you have one that appears to be dead, it may be worth while taking a closer look.

In any case a great thread here guys!!

Test Clip I took yesterday and edited in iMovie

Key Chain 808 720P HD Camera test Using iMovie to Edit Video (0 min 45 sec)

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

...
For me that kind of makes the +/- one minute buttons somewhat redundant. So eliminating them to simplify the display wouldn't make the program any less useful for me, but having them is also no problem.
What do others think? I implemented the buttons before I had the idea about the +30 seconds. They, do however, sort of "balance" the dialog layout quite well. It would be no problem to delete them though.

I also like having the current time displayed and the reload button in case the phone rings in the middle of time setting! And thanks for adding the volume label!
I always implement good ideas if I can

I like the way you have error-trapped the common things that could cause a person problems. I worked for some time in process safety when I was working, and the key was not figuring out how to make something work... that was the easy part. The hard part was anticipating all the things that could go wrong and cause it NOT to work as expected... and maybe go boom in the night!
Yes, I write professional programs for real "dummies" (not meant in a negative sense) and always have to anticipate what people will do that I would never dream of doing! BTW, there's no error message if the date file already exists - I don't see the point, so I just overwrite the existing file. Basic error processing is there, but no cryptic codes etc.

With that in mind, one final comment on instruction #5 "Turn off camera and unplug it." As long as the camera is plugged in and connected as a flash drive, there is no way to turn it off. So maybe this should just say "Unplug the camera and wait to the yellow LED to turn off" so someone doesn't go bonkers trying to turn it off before unplugging?
OK, I need more input on this. What I do is this: I press the power button until the yellow light is extinguished, and then pull the plug. I think this is safe.
I could most probably also modify the program so it waits until the drive is disconnected and only then terminates. I could show a disconnect message in the list box. But is this needed? - I think it would complicate things for a newbie and he/she would think the program is hanging.
What do you think? My suggestion would be to just change the text of instruction #5 to
"Press the Power Button until the yellow LED is off, then unplug the camera"
or your text
"Unplug the camera and wait for the yellow LED to turn off"
I realize there are different methods, hence my question.

To be totally correct, I should probably say the safest procedure would be to first toggle the small USB icon in the PC system tray to "safely remove hardware and eject media"! But for this simple task of writing a tiny text file to the camera, that just adds another degree of complexity which in this case is not necessary. I just unplug the camera!
I agree absolutely! It's almost impossible to explain the "safely remove hardware". For USB sticks it's a *must* - I've destroyed a couple of sticks in the past because I was too lazy to do this!

Tom (and others), I need your comments, especially for the green text in bold. Then I can put this project to rest. Thanks

Originally Posted by jims123

Iso,
This utility looks pretty cool. I might even try it once it's ready for distro..
It IS ready now!

Might i suggest adding a No 7 in the instructions tho..

"7.) Test results by taking a short video clip and reconnect the No 11. to confirm the time and date of the .mov and its displayed video is set properly.. If so, remove the timeset.txt file from the root of the keycam folder. If not Blame IsoProp, send $20 and he'll fixit. or a $5.00 donation and he'll sympathize "

Oooh, I'll have to program some bugs, then I'll get rich pretty soon
Personally, I don't think there's any point for a #7, because if the program terminates without any error the camera time will be correct (I hope). But what do others think about this? If others think a #7 is needed, I'll add it.

The timeset.txt will always be automatically removed by the camera, even if the contents is invalid (I think).

It's the firmware files that stay stuck - and yes, it also flashed thru my brain that I could do something similar using embeded firmware files - bad idea - then folks would blame me when their cameras became bricked!

Now, if the manufacturer is reading this - I would willingly adapt the program to make it possible to add all sorts of parameters to the timeset.txt file... That would be cool!

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Tom (and others), I need your comments, especially for the green text in bold. Then I can put this project to rest. Thanks

OK, I guess I wasn't holding the power button down long enough!! It certainly does turn off if I hold the power button down for 2-3 seconds, so your new instruction makes that clear and eradicates another failure mode I hadn't triggered!

I thought the USB "safely remove" icon just flushes any PC buffer content to the device and closes any files before giving the "OK to disconnect" message. Does it do more than that?

For writing a small text file of a couple dozen bytes like the timeset.txt file, I've never been concerned about the file not being written and closed long before I can get my hand on the cable to disconnect it. I've never had any issues just disconnecting the camera, and your new instruction is easy and fast, but is it any safer? If there were a delay in writing the file from the PC cause by the PC doing other higher priority tasks, then turning the camera off could be just as "damaging" as far as having an incomplete file is concerned, I think. I believe the only way to be sure the PC is finished with it's tasks before disconnecting the camera is clicking on the USB disconnect icon.

I thought the worse case scenario of pulling the plug would be an incomplete or corrupt timeset.txt file, not a trashed Flash memory card. But if you've trashed some USB sticks just by pulling them out without "safely removing" that a full format cannot correct, that puts that thought to rest

Comments in GREEN:

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Oooh, I'll have to program some bugs, then I'll get rich pretty soon
Personally, I don't think there's any point for a #7, because if the program terminates without any error the camera time will be correct (I hope). But what do others think about this? If others think a #7 is needed, I'll add it.

If folks are setting the time so it will display properly in their video, a video confirmation test would be appropriate for them, I guess, if it's important enough. I turn off the video date stamp and only set date to put the correct time stamp tag in my video file properties.

The timeset.txt will always be automatically removed by the camera, even if the contents is invalid (I think).

I was testing some different time formats in timeset.txt last week, and the file was deleted even if file format was incorrect and did not change the time stamp. And when I put a total garbage text file name timeset.txt and loaded that, the time was reset to the system default (same as disconnecting the battery!) and the timeset.txt file was still erased. So you are correct, the file is always erased, but the time may not be always reset, or may be set to system default with a corrupted file!

It's the firmware files that stay stuck - and yes, it also flashed thru my brain that I could do something similar using embeded firmware files - bad idea - then folks would blame me when their cameras became bricked!

Now, if the manufacturer is reading this - I would willingly adapt the program to make it possible to add all sorts of parameters to the timeset.txt file... That would be cool!

Can you communicate through the USB port to reboot the camera and write the file to save me the trouble!?

After sorting out the bad lens focus on my V3 808 (thanks for the pictures Dee404 and Tom) I decided to take the plunge and upgrade to the V2 timestamp free firmware - the non continuous recording version.

However, after successfully upgrading to V2, I can no longer put it into 'webcam' mode and have a PC recognise it as such

I've now tried 3 different PC's - non of the machines respond in any way.
File transfer / USB drive mode works just fine.

I wondered if this was an unlucky one-off / faulty camera, or if there might just be an underlying problem with the latest V2 firmware ?

Needless to say, it was working fine as a webcam with the factory firmware.

Many thanks, Richard.

Hmmm... the Release 2 firmware works in web cam mode on my v2 #11 with the continuous recording firmware installed! And not only that, it now will display as a web cam with up to 1280x720 16:9 frame size! Before it was 640x480 max. But I had trouble until I plugged into a USB port right on my PC. The USB port on my computer monitor is much slower than the one on the PC box. And even when connected, my quad core PC with upper end Nvidia video card could not process the web cam 1280x720 MJPEG stream without stuttering and locking up frequently, even at 15 fps. At 640x480 it works fine.
<EDIT>

Originally Posted by timetec

After sorting out the bad lens focus on my V3 808 (thanks for the pictures Dee404 and Tom) I decided to take the plunge and upgrade to the V2 timestamp free firmware - the non continuous recording version.

However, after successfully upgrading to V2, I can no longer put it into 'webcam' mode and have a PC recognise it as such

I've now tried 3 different PC's - non of the machines respond in any way.
File transfer / USB drive mode works just fine.

I wondered if this was an unlucky one-off / faulty camera, or if there might just be an underlying problem with the latest V2 firmware ?

Needless to say, it was working fine as a webcam with the factory firmware.

Many thanks, Richard.

Go to hxelepro360 and see the new H.264 Ture HD Camera Car DV Vedio Driving Recorder 808 #11.

Here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-264...Q5fAccessories

Originally Posted by jmdlcar

Go to hxelepro360 and see the new H.264 Ture HD Camera Car DV Vedio Driving Recorder 808 #11.

Here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-264...Q5fAccessories

I guess that's the larger case and internal battery they had been talking about. But the major components on the circuit board are identical to the REAL #11, so the extra $$ doesn't get you much when you can now get the REAL #11HD for only $28!! on her store.

<EDIT> OOPS!... looks like they now are listing at lower price, but with shipping cost to bring it back up to the average $40 price point! Still... $8 more for a larger, heavier case and battery looks to be the only difference. <EDIT>

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I guess that's the larger case and internal battery they had been talking about. But the major components on the circuit board are identical to the REAL #11, so the extra $$ doesn't get you much when you can now get the REAL #11HD for only $28!! on her store.
<EDIT> OOPS!... looks like they now are listing at lower price, but with shipping cost to ring it back up to the average $40 price point! <EDIT>

But when you add shipping, there is only a difference of 7 bucks. Is the larger internal battery worth that?

Someone will buy it. They will share there input and video. Just have to wait and see.

i've been reading this thread for some time. i've ordered the #11 keycam on may 7th, it been shipped on the 17th and i should have it tomorrow. i've been looking for a replacement lipo battery for when my battery dies and i've seen this 500mah one for 5$ http://cgi.ebay.ca/Li-po-Standard-Ba...item519927286e

i'm not sure if it would fit, here's the specs:
Lithium polymer battery
Size: 35mm * 50mm * 3mm(W*L*D)
Rating: 3.7V 500mah


here's a 1000mah with a protection circuit PCM already soldered to it (might not be the same thing as on the #11), 5.8mm thin so it might not fit http://cgi.ebay.ca/3-7V-1000mAh-Lith...item27bab62f63

Have a look at first posts.
There is also some information a few pages back.

But I think you won`t have a battery problem.
Especially with the continuous firmware, that does not let the battery discharge too much.
And its good charging info (full charge led goes off).

As for the "1000mah" battery, I doubt it is one with such a capacity.
It is too small so to be.
It is just way overestimated.
On the other hand it is too large to fit, I think.

I tried my new camera in the car this morning and with the car charger.

When I plugged in the "special" charger the red light came on, I don't remember this happening on the V2. Next I pressed the power button on the camera and the red light turned off and the amber one came on. Also I have noticed that the new V3 after turning on, the amber light will blink once, did the V2 do this?

Yes, a V2 camera blinks once after you power it on.

Today I got my #11 cam from power-gps from ebay.
My problem is that it films only in 320x240 but I'm sure its the HD cam.
Anyone got this problem too?

Read this: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=3531

It seems you have a new version of the camera that needs the new firmware version, or something like that.

Originally Posted by jmdlcar

Go to hxelepro360 and see the new H.264 Ture HD Camera Car DV Vedio Driving Recorder 808 #11.

Here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-264...Q5fAccessories

Figures...... I have not even opened up the 40 buck 808 #11 I just received... And now it's 28 bucks..

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

OK, I guess I wasn't holding the power button down long enough!! It certainly does turn off if I hold the power button down for 2-3 seconds, so your new instruction makes that clear and eradicates another failure mode I hadn't triggered!
I've modified instruction #5 to make it clearer how to stop and remove the camera.

I thought the USB "safely remove" icon just flushes any PC buffer content to the device and closes any files before giving the "OK to disconnect" message. Does it do more than that?
I'm sure it does just that. However, the big question is what windows does before the button is pressed. You won't catch me removing a memory stick before "safely removing" a memory stick any more!

For writing a small text file of a couple dozen bytes like the timeset.txt file, I've never been concerned about the file not being written and closed long before I can get my hand on the cable to disconnect it. I've never had any issues just disconnecting the camera, and your new instruction is easy and fast, but is it any safer? If there were a delay in writing the file from the PC cause by the PC doing other higher priority tasks, then turning the camera off could be just as "damaging" as far as having an incomplete file is concerned, I think. I believe the only way to be sure the PC is finished with it's tasks before disconnecting the camera is clicking on the USB disconnect icon.
I believe that pressing the camera button for 2-3 seconds to turn it off is safe because it is a controlled state initiated by the camera. OK, maybe the file hasn't yet been flushed to the camera, but that won't destroy it. I have always disconnected the camera by first pressing the Power button for 2-3 seconds and never had any problems. Pulling the plug like you do seems OK too.

I thought the worse case scenario of pulling the plug would be an incomplete or corrupt timeset.txt file, not a trashed Flash memory card. But if you've trashed some USB sticks just by pulling them out without "safely removing" that a full format cannot correct, that puts that thought to rest
See my comments above - only theory of course, but I don't want to destroy any more sticks!
....
....
Can you communicate through the USB port to reboot the camera and write the file to save me the trouble!?
Unfortunately this will always be a definite No-Go because it would need the USB (webcam) driver. Even then, the camera would need to be coded to accept a "soft reboot" via USB. I have never liked USB because of the drivers required, but currently that's the only common highspeed interface we have.

Based on user input I've modified the program again. The current version is 1.0.0.3 and I hope this is now the final version. Note that all versions, including the first BETA version, function properly. The new versions are just more user-friendly (I hope).

I've made the following modifications:
• Modified instruction #5 to make it clearer how to stop and remove the camera.
• Added optional instruction #7 to test the date and time.
• Only removable media equal or less than 32GB are shown in the listbox.
• Minor modifications to show the sizes in Bytes, MB or GB as appropriate.
• Modification to the TAB order.
• Other very minor code modifications.

I've updated my original posting in order to keep the links intact.

Just for the record, here's a screenshot of the new version:

Originally Posted by air_crash

Read this: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=3531

It seems you have a new version of the camera that needs the new firmware version, or something like that.

Thank you SO much. It works!

Originally Posted by livonia bob

Figures...... I have not even opened up the 40 buck 808 #11 I just received... And now it's 28 bucks..

I think the one you seen for 28 bucks you would have to pay Shipping: $12.00 Economy Shipping from outside US total 40 bucks.

Originally Posted by jmdlcar

I think the one you seen for 28 bucks you would have to pay Shipping: $12.00 Economy Shipping from outside US total 40 bucks.

Must of missed the 12 buck shipping.. So Now I'm happy think I'll open the package and charge it up.. And see which one I got..

Originally Posted by jmdlcar

Go to hxelepro360 and see the new H.264 Ture HD Camera Car DV Vedio Driving Recorder 808 #11.

Here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-264...Q5fAccessories

Interesting...
Looking at the pictures of the PCB it looks like the microphone is oriented to "look" up or down instead of ahead.
It will be even more interesting to hear from someone who has one to see if it is functionally the same.

Walt

Isn't the firmware post incorrect? I read yesterday that the Continuous Recording & Remove Time firmware in fact does not continue recording once it reaches a 4GB file size. I haven't tested it myself yet though. Or maybe the problem reported has already been resolved? Would be nice to have up-to-date info in the faq posts.

I just found out that my new camera needs the V2 firmware. It was recording fine but once I take a picture and then start a video with it all videos are 320x230 resolution until I power cycle the camera again.

Originally Posted by wjbite

Interesting...
Looking at the pictures of the PCB it looks like the microphone is oriented to "look" up or down instead of ahead.
It will be even more interesting to hear from someone who has one to see if it is functionally the same.

Walt

Even more interesting:
I just looked at the 'manual' that came with my camera and it shows three picture of three different case and this newer one IS pictured there, too.

Walt

Originally Posted by xamindar

Isn't the firmware post incorrect? I read yesterday that the Continuous Recording & Remove Time firmware in fact does not continue recording once it reaches a 4GB file size. I haven't tested it myself yet though. Or maybe the problem reported has already been resolved? Would be nice to have up-to-date info in the faq posts.

I just found out that my new camera needs the V2 firmware. It was recording fine but once I take a picture and then start a video with it all videos are 320x230 resolution until I power cycle the camera again.

I agree it would be nice to have up-to-date info in the FAQs, just as it would be nice to have everyone read them before asking questions that are already asked and answered there!

I do try to keep the FAQs current, but in this case I was trying to save some work of changing it twice. The firmware post you referenced is "temporarily incorrect". The firmware is supposed to continue recording after the 4GB file size limit stops and saves, just like the Release 1 firmware did, but it is not working correctly. I was going to modify the FAQ, when I got a reply from the developer that they are aware of the problem and would be releasing a new firmware very soon to fix it. SO rather than change it, then change it back in a week or so, I decided to leave it as is since the discussion in the thread that says it doesn't work also says it's being fixed.

Originally Posted by jims123

Tom,
can you whip up a simple table or list of what you and others here may have already asked them to look at fixing or improving .. and a projected probability or priority.. it could save re-submissions if we knew what's already inconsideration.. I hope they can try to make the No 11. cams stop distorting the audio output when the battery gets low, and to blink the RED charge LED while the recording is running... are these two on the list? can you maintain a bug tracker and wish-list? JimS

Hi Jim,
Looks like I missed answering this post earlier.

If I were the developer, I might be able to make such a list. I don't know all the things they might be working on or their priorities. The blinking LED suggestion has been given to them since my perception is that most users who are in this thread because they mount the cameras on RC planes would welcome this change, but some don't want it if they are using the camera for "stealth" videos. And therein lies one problem with a wish list. There's no way to keep everyone happy, so having multiple posts to reflect more of a consensus of RC plane aerial video users (the purpose of this thread!) is not so bad.

The sound issue seems to vary from one camera to the next. I think it will take a hardware mod to do a proper fix, and maybe the v3 circuit board changes they just made help with this? I think the only way to "fix" it with firmware is to have the video stop/save/and shut down sooner at a higher battery voltage level, in which case many (me for one) would say I'd rather have the video with the buzz (which I can mute in post editing) than to have no video at all as the battery weakens.

Originally Posted by wjbite

Interesting...
Looking at the pictures of the PCB it looks like the microphone is oriented to "look" up or down instead of ahead.
It will be even more interesting to hear from someone who has one to see if it is functionally the same.

Walt

The notch in the circuit board looks like maybe the original intent was to point it sideways? In either case, there is no hole in the camera case next to the mic like the REAL #11HD. And the latest #11 v3 circuit board pics just posted shows it comes with a larger diameter mic, so maybe that is a factor as well (wouldn't fit pointing sideways)? Who know?

OK, there has been a recent post showing a new style camera, still advertised as a "808 #11 HD" camera but in a larger case with larger battery. To head off more posts, here is a picture showing that there are a variety of these new cameras with the larger case and battery, but different case designs, including three with car logos on them (Audi, BMW, and Toyota). These are now showing on the vendor web sites listed in post #2.

My intent with this thread was to support the original "REAL (#11) HD Key Cam" as the thread title says. At this point, we don't know if these new cameras are functionally identical to the original small one or not. It appears they do have the same CMOS sensor and same video processor chip, so they may run the same firmware and have the same features (and problems).

If this is the case, then I'll try to keep the thread updated as before. But if we start seeing a branch to a different functional design, then I'll not try to keep up with those changes here. So, if anyone gets one of these larger case cameras and compare the functions and video quality, let us know if there are any differences. I'll pursue this with the camera vendor/developer as well.

Originally Posted by Dee404

I tried my new camera in the car this morning and with the car charger.

When I plugged in the "special" charger the red light came on, I don't remember this happening on the V2. Next I pressed the power button on the camera and the red light turned off and the amber one came on. Also I have noticed that the new V3 after turning on, the amber light will blink once, did the V2 do this?

Interesting, I received my replacement yesterday and it must be the new V3 as well. The red light does indeed come on when it is plugged into the special cable now. Only, mine acts a little different than Dee404s, when I press the power button to turn it on the amber light comes on while the red one also stays on (it does not turn off). I assume the red one will still go off when the internal battery is full but have not tested it yet (maybe that's why Dee404s red light went off?). So the leds on mine so far act the same whether I use the special cable or not.

Hopefully the camera is still able to record longer with the special cable, have to test this.

Originally Posted by xamindar

Interesting, I received my replacement yesterday and it must be the new V3 as well. The red light does indeed come on when it is plugged into the special cable now. Only, mine acts a little different than Dee404s, when I press the power button to turn it on the amber light comes on while the red one also stays on (it does not turn off). I assume the red one will still go off when the internal battery is full but have not tested it yet. So the leds on mine so far act the same whether I use the special cable or not.

Hopefully the camera is still able to record longer with the special cable, have to test this.

Do you get that scratchy static sound in the video while driving?

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Do you get that scratchy static sound in the video while driving?

Yes I still got that when I tested it this morning but it wasn't that bad. I seem to remember it being worse with the other camera. Maybe someone who has both versions could do a test?

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Based on user input I've modified the program again. The current version is 1.0.0.3 and I hope this is now the final version. Note that all versions, including the first BETA version, function properly. The new versions are just more user-friendly (I hope).

I've made the following modifications:
• Modified instruction #5 to make it clearer how to stop and remove the camera.
• Added optional instruction #7 to test the date and time.
• Only removable media equal or less than 32GB are shown in the listbox.
• Minor modifications to show the sizes in Bytes, MB or GB as appropriate.
• Modification to the TAB order.
• Other very minor code modifications.

I've updated my original posting in order to keep the links intact.

Looks good, Isoprop! Thanks again for developing this!

BTW, my suggestion for power cycling the camera via the USB link was meant to be in jest, but I have no doubt you could do it given the right "hooks"!

Originally Posted by xamindar

Interesting, I received my replacement yesterday and it must be the new V3 as well. The red light does indeed come on when it is plugged into the special cable now.

Could you measure V3 car charger voltage? According to the charger chip datasheet, guessing that it cannot have 4.2V any more.

There are three diodes more and it allows to use charging chip with both pin 1 and pin 4 (see my post #4321).

Originally Posted by utx

Could you measure V3 car charger voltage? According to the charger chip datasheet, guessing that it cannot have 4.2V any more.

There are three diodes more and it allows to use charging chip with both pin 1 and pin 4 (see my post #4321).

Do you think that the two car chargers are interchangeable or will I have to make sure that I use #1 with the #1 camera and the #2 one with the #2 camera??

Originally Posted by utx

Could you measure V3 car charger voltage? According to the charger chip datasheet, guessing that it cannot have 4.2V any more.

There are three diodes more and it allows to use charging chip with both pin 1 and pin 4 (see my post #4321).

All my accessories are from the original V2 camera, they only replaced the camera module. So my car charger is likely the same as any other V2 camera. I cannibalized my charger and made a special usb cable with it anyway. That would be useful information, hopefully Dee404 or anyone else who has the whole "V3 package" can measure the voltages.

Also, I just noted the red LED does in fact turn off when charging is complete with the special cable (this was plugged in with ~5V supply from the computer). So as you said utx, either cable will allow it to use the charging circuit.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

...
BTW, my suggestion for power cycling the camera via the USB link was meant to be in jest, but I have no doubt you could do it given the right "hooks"!

Yes, I thaught that may be so . But, if it were possible it would still be cool.

I could easily add code to automatically "safely remove" the device after the file is written, but I tested this and it takes between a few seconds and many seconds, so I abandoned the idea. You would still have to turn off the camera - I can't do that programatically - so it only wastes time while one waits for the program to terminate. Believe me, I don't think it's worth it. The code is already in the program, so all I would have to do is uncomment one line to activate it. Also, I don't think it's worth over-complicating such a simple program that is seldom used by adding setup parameters etc. - another idea that I abandoned...

But then again, I'm always open to ideas...

Originally Posted by Isoprop

...

But then again, I'm always open to ideas...

W I B N I
to have a large(ish) count down from when the file is written to the camera, to when you should switch it on to get the time right?
For the chronologially challenged like me
Mike

Iso - your utility looks great, but I don't have a #11 . Have you looked at 808setclock? The source code is also available for dowload. Just wondering if you might post your code?

Originally Posted by livonia bob

Do you think that the two car chargers are interchangeable or will I have to make sure that I use #1 with the #1 camera and the #2 one with the #2 camera??

I think that #3 modifies the camera charging circuit by adding three diodes:

- #2: pin 4 is connected to battery terminals (via a diode and maybe transistor). 5V is too much, 4.2V is safe.

- #3: pin 4 is connected to charging circuit (probably via diode, as well as pin 1). 4.2V is too low, 5V is safe.

That is why I think that #3 provides full charge capability via pin 4. But this feature requires at least 4.7V (4.20V charging voltage, 0.3V recommended drop on the charger chip and 0.2V drop on the Schottky diode).

It means that they would benefit from providing 5V chargers. They don't need to open all car chargers, cut original resistor and solder another one. Using a 5V charger would be cheaper for them.

I am thinking about modifying my camera #2 and car charger in a different way:

1. Find the USB mass storage detection line inside the camera.

2. Disconnect it from pin 1

3. Connect USB mass storage detection pin to USB D+ via a resistor or so.

4. Modify car charger back to a standard car charger (5V, pin 1)

Everything depends on 1. and possibility to switch to mass storage mode with just 3V on USB D+.

Originally Posted by empeabee

W I B N I
to have a large(ish) count down from when the file is written to the camera, to when you should switch it on to get the time right?
For the chronologially challenged like me
Mike

Mike, once you have the camera disconnected from the PC, the file will be written to the camera approx. one second after you push the power button to turn it back on.

Here's what I do. Since there is a 30 advance of the preset default time when you start the program, there should be plenty of time even if you forgot to connect your camera first. Then watch the real time clock count down towards your set time and wait until it reads down to 8-10 sec. ahead of your set time. Then click on the "write data to camera" button... the program will close when its done. Then just turn off the camera, disconnect it, and turn back on per steps 5 & 6 in the instructions. Your camera time should then be within a few seconds of the PC time.

Do you need it more accurate than that, or is the problem that the fonts used for the time settings are too small to read clearly?

Originally Posted by utx

It means that they would benefit from providing 5V chargers. They don't need to open all car chargers, cut original resistor and solder another one. Using a 5V charger would be cheaper for them.

Well the newly shaped cameras with the larger batteries must come with a 5V charger as it looks to be a standard USB car plug. If these cameras are indeed based on the same circuitry as the V3 then maybe all V3s need to have a 5V charger as you are saying.

Originally Posted by xamindar

Well the newly shaped cameras with the larger batteries must come with a 5V charger as it looks to be a standard USB car plug.
...

The old car charger cables look like a normal generic 5v USB power source, too. You can't tell by looking... you have to measure the voltage between pin #4 and #5 to tell if it is the special plug or not. See the FAQ link on external chargers.

Got my #11 keycam today (shipped on may 17th). It didn't work at first when plugging it in the computer with the usb cable, no red light, no removable disc. Then i used another cable and it works fine, the cable that came with my cam seems to be defective.

Here's the interesting info i have for you, my manual came with pictures of the regular #11, the new larger #11, and a 3rd one that is even larger.
Dimensions of those 3 according to the manual: 51x32x14 - 65x35x18 - 70x34x18

One thing tho, is that they only mention the battery being 250mA, and the ebay listing of the new version of #11 says it is 500mA. Might just be incomplete information from the manual.. Both those 2 new version don't have a mic hole. I'm at work right now, in a few hours when i'm back home i'll take a picture of it and post it here. So it seems that they are made from the same place.

Originally Posted by toxicc

...
Here's the interesting info i have for you, my manual came with pictures of the regular #11, the new larger #11, and a 3rd one that is even larger.
Dimensions of those 3 according to the manual: 51x32x14 - 65x35x18 - 70x34x18

I'm at work right now, in a few hours when i'm back home i'll take a picture of it and post it here. So it seems that they are made from the same place. One thing tho, is that they only mention the battery being 250mA, and the ebay listing of the new version of #11 says it is 500mA. Might just be incomplete information from the manual..

I think all of these sizes are shown in the picture I posted in Post 4351.

Yeah, the original small one has the smaller battery. All the others have the larger battery I think. The main thing I want to know is if the new ones are functionally identical to the latest verson of the REAL #11 HD and run the same firmware.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

The old car charger cables look like a normal generic 5v USB power source, too. You can't tell by looking... you have to measure the voltage between pin #4 and #5 to tell if it is the special plug or not. See the FAQ link on external chargers.

Yes, but plugging a device into the older cable would not power it at all. But with the car plug from the new camera you can plug any usb cable and device you want into it. Besides, I wasn't saying it really was 5V, it just wouldn't make sense to be anything other than that. If you are still not sure what I am referring to, check out the link in post 4330.

Originally Posted by toxicc

Got my #11 keycam today (shipped on may 17th). It didn't work at first when plugging it in the computer with the usb cable, no red light, no removable disc. Then i used another cable and it works fine, the cable that came with my cam seems to be defective.

Here's the interesting info i have for you, my manual came with pictures of the regular #11, the new larger #11, and a 3rd one that is even larger.
Dimensions of those 3 according to the manual: 51x32x14 - 65x35x18 - 70x34x18

One thing tho, is that they only mention the battery being 250mA, and the ebay listing of the new version of #11 says it is 500mA. Might just be incomplete information from the manual.. Both those 2 new version don't have a mic hole. I'm at work right now, in a few hours when i'm back home i'll take a picture of it and post it here. So it seems that they are made from the same place.

Since the microphone on the printed circuit pictures is placed with a different orientation, try looking for a hole on the other surfaces of the camera that looks like it might be the camera hole.
Please let us know, eh?

Walt

Originally Posted by xamindar

Yes, but plugging a device into the older cable would not power it at all. But with the car plug from the new camera you can plug any usb cable and device you want into it. Besides, I wasn't saying it really was 5V, it just wouldn't make sense to be anything other than that. If you are still not sure what I am referring to, check out the link in post 4330.

The new plug looks just like the old one from the outside... a mini-USB plug. I can't see any difference visually, which was my point.

Just to update any readers who may have seen the post about problems I was having getting the webcam mode to work, after upgrading to the V2 firmware :

The reset switch had no effect as explained earlier, so I disconnected the LiPo battery (black wire - easier to get to), left it a few minutes and then resoldered it back in place. BINGO - it now works exactly as it should do
So, for some reason a 'hard reset' was needed. ie complete power removal and restoration.
If anyone else happens to have this problem in future, they will know what to do to regain the webcam functionallity. It might even be worth adding a tiny 'push to break' switch somewhere to interupt the battery supply in case of future problems....


Re the audio noise problems experienced by users (low frequency pick-up).

To start with, I must point out that the -ve mic supply connection is 'floating' - it is not directly connected to the battery -ve supply (GND). The supply voltage for the ECM is 1.2V, dropped from 1.65v by a 2.2K resistor (shown in the picture). This value was tested IN CIRCUIT - I'm not convinced of this value and think it will actually be higher than this. There is a single capacitor from the +ve output of the ECM, which I assume feeds the audio to the ADC (Analogue to Digital Converter), blocking any DC in the process. You can see the feedthru hole from the ECM +ve terminal marked in the picture. I'll scope the output tomorrow, pre and post the mic coupling capacitor.

V2 vs V3 - I noticed a blinder of a difference between the two versions - A wide band of white PCB print at the end of the camera ribbon cable on the V3 #11. I don't know whether this print was used on any of the earlier 808's variants ?

Richard

Tom,

Is this thread about the #11 HD camera or has this thread morphed into all keyfob video cameras. If so, it's the latter it's going to to get bogged down and duplicate the MEGA thread.

Bill

Comments in GREEN below:

Originally Posted by timetec

Just to update any readers who may have seen the post about problems I was having getting the webcam mode to work, after upgrading to the V2 firmware :

The reset switch had no effect as explained earlier, so I disconnected the LiPo battery (black wire - easier to get to), left it a few minutes and then resoldered it back in place. BINGO - it now works exactly as it should do
So, for some reason a 'hard reset' was needed. ie complete power removal and restoration.
If anyone else happens to have this problem in future, they will know what to do to regain the webcam functionallity. It might even be worth adding a tiny 'push to break' switch somewhere to interupt the battery supply in case of future problems....

I did this very thing on a different make of camera that would occasionally lock up completely until the battery was disconnected. The question remains... would your camera do the same if you flashed in Release 2 firmware again?


Re the audio noise problems experienced by users (low frequency pick-up).

To start with, I must point out that the -ve mic supply connection is 'floating' - it is not directly connected to the battery -ve supply (GND). The supply voltage for the ECM is 1.2V, dropped from 1.65v by a 2.2K resistor (shown in the picture). This value was tested IN CIRCUIT - I'm not convinced of this value and think it will actually be higher than this. There is a single capacitor from the +ve output of the ECM, which I assume feeds the audio to the ADC (Analogue to Digital Converter), blocking any DC in the process. You can see the feedthru hole from the ECM +ve terminal marked in the picture. I'll scope the output tomorrow, pre and post the mic coupling capacitor.

Your circuit forensic skills blow mine away! It's already been reported that there is still some scratchy static car driving video, so whatever they've done, it hasn't totally solved that problem.

V2 vs V3 - I noticed a blinder of a difference between the two versions - A wide band of white PCB print at the end of the camera ribbon cable on the V3 #11. I don't know whether this print was used on any of the earlier 808's variants ?

I saw the white band previously, but couldn't tell from the picture what it was. It hasn't shown to be on any previous camera pics that have been posted here.

Richard

Originally Posted by Prof100

Tom,

Is this thread about the #11 HD camera or has this thread morphed into all keyfob video cameras. If so, it's the latter it's going to to get bogged down and duplicate the MEGA thread.

Bill

I tried to put some boundaries on this thread back in post 4351. As far as I'm concerned, it's still dedicated to the original #11 HD Key Cam design. But that design is changing... first with Release 2 firmware, then the slightly different circuit board design (which we still don't know much about, except it appears to run the same firmware), and now with a totally different larger case, larger battery, and completely different circuit board. The question remains whether those larger versions run the same firmware... they have the same CMOS module and video processor chip, so it's possible they do. If they do and have similar problems and solutions to the original #11, the discussion here could apply to all of them for the most part.
If new camera versions sold as #11 show up with totally different video capture and control hardware, requiring different firmware, with different functions, problems and solutions, I have no interest in trying to assimilate and update all those new issues into this thread. Then I'd either just bail out and let this thread go it's merry way, or close down this thread to keep its focus.

I'm waiting for feedback from my camera sources to see what is going on.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I tried to put some boundaries on this thread back in post 4351. As far as I'm concerned, it's still dedicated to the original #11 HD Key Cam design. But that design is changing... first with Release 2 firmware, then the slightly different circuit board design (which we still don't know much about, except it appears to run the same firmware), and now with a totally different larger case, larger battery, and completely different circuit board. The question remains whether those larger versions run the same firmware... they have the same CMOS module and video processor chip, so it's possible they do. If they do and have similar problems and solutions to the original #11, the discussion here could apply to all of them for the most part.
...
I'm waiting for feedback from my camera sources to see what is going on.

I just got this reply to my inquiry with a China contact regarding the new larger case/battery cameras being sold as #11 HD cams.

================================================== ======
Hi Tom frank .
Thank you for you reply me .
This new model keychain camera are functionally identical to the original #11 HD camera .(function and usage )
Just the apperance is different .The battery can use more long time .
It about 100mins .
There is no any different .
Thank you
Have a good day
================================================== ========

So I guess most everything (except for internal battery recording and recharge time) being discussed in this thread as regards the camera function, firmware, problems, and solutions will apply to the larger one as well unless someone reports something different.

I'll have to post some pictures of the new ones in Post #2, I guess.

Originally Posted by Prof100

Tom,

Is this thread about the #11 HD camera or has this thread morphed into all keyfob video cameras. If so, it's the latter it's going to to get bogged down and duplicate the MEGA thread.

Bill

Guest I shouldn't said anything about it and let someone else do it.

Originally Posted by jmdlcar

Guest I shouldn't said anything about it and let someone else do it.

If it is simply a jumbo number 11 with a larger battery that's a great. I would just hate to see this turn into a thread about all keyfob cameras.

Originally Posted by Prof100

If it is simply a jumbo number 11 with a larger battery that's a great. I would just hate to see this turn into a thread about all keyfob cameras.

I agree with this all the way. Tom has try to keep that up.

Originally Posted by Prof100

If it is simply a jumbo number 11 with a larger battery that's a great. I would just hate to see this turn into a thread about all keyfob cameras.

We now have confirmation that's all they are, and with three larger case sizes and a few different details on them, I'm just going to lump them all under the banner of "Jumbo #11 HD" cameras. Other than showing their pictures in Post #2 to acknowledge they are functionally identical, I don't expect to give them any other special treatment here.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Mike, once you have....problem that the fonts used for the time settings are too small to read clearly?

My WIBNI came out of my past experience - many people 'need' hard numbers to make them comfortable, and I have found a countdown clock helps provide that comfort zone.

As my years progress I do prefer things to stand out more, the old brain/eye/hand coordination isn't like it used to be.

Earlier in the thread I'd introduced the WIBNI concept as the bane of all development programmers, and used it to try to make my suggestion as light as possible.

As it stands the program is fine, I was just suggesting a way of gilding the lilly.
Mike

Free video dub doesn't work with HD videos (it says missing codec or something of that nature).
Does anyone know how to dub HD videos?

Thanks.

I am getting 4.43v on this charger.

The internals are slightly different as well. For starting the layout and the other there is no longer the resistor on the back of the board.

Originally Posted by utx

I see a difference in USB pin 4 (dedicated powering) wiring - it is wired to "0" (resistor jumper - just a piece of wire manufactured as a SMD part). Could you trace its connection? Is it still wired to the (large) Schottky diode in front of it?

On the reverse side I see part labelled "KL3" - most probably dual Schottky diode (BAT54C or CDBV3-54).

Can you check your new V3 car charger pinout and voltage? Does the charging LED light while powered via pin 4 and battery is depleted?

I see a change in the soldering points of the camera soldering points connector. Guessing that it was done to simplify soldering. (Guessing that the whole PCB is assembled by machine but the camera module is soldered manually afterwards.)

And finally I see change in orientation of transistors(?) nearby the camera soldering points.

Regarding the old version, comparing them I see one slight difference: If you look at Schottky diode near pin 1 of USB connector and you find a small part near its soldering point on the distant side from pin 1 - some of cameras (including my one) have there a resistor, some of them have there only a drop of tin.

Originally Posted by utx

Could you measure V3 car charger voltage? According to the charger chip datasheet, guessing that it cannot have 4.2V any more.

There are three diodes more and it allows to use charging chip with both pin 1 and pin 4 (see my post #4321).

I shall try and answer your question from post 4321 when I get chance to open up the camera again.

This time round I got the bundle with the external battery pack.

I don't think anyone has post a photo showing the internals of it so here you go.





^ you can see above the three middle tabs on the mini USB are not soldered.

^ The right tab I think might be lifted and the third from the right is definitely lifted of the board.

Originally Posted by Dee404

This time round I got the bundle with the external battery pack.

I don't think anyone has post a photo showing the internals of it so here you go.
...

Very cool.. I had no idea that stuff was in mine.. Thanks makes me wanna go poking around in there some day Looks like a Lipo vs a LiFe Battery tho .. can you tell which it really is? JimS

Originally Posted by Dee404

I am getting 4.43v on this charger.

The internals are slightly different as well. For starting the layout and the other there is no longer the resistor on the back of the board.

This is exactly the same charger PCB as I got with my camera #2 in April. Just one part is different.

The resistor on back was just a replacement for R3 that was cut out from the parts side. If you measure its resistance or decode the color code on R3, you can compute the designated voltage using equation on my page (it comes from the IC datasheet).

A new HD camera ?

Only 35$

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17200



I think the extra weight (30g vs 16) is due to the 3h battery included ... this state a 5M pixel sensor ...

Tchuss

e_lm_70

ps: Bad luck ... just for #11 from eletopone

There's already a new thread for that - the title tells all!

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1449375

Something the #11 lacks is decent optics :

If you fitted a #11 with the same or similar lens as that show attached to the camera head of the Redleaf RD32 for example, I'm sure that the image quality would be greatly improved - especially the distance resolution.

We know the 808 #11's are cracking little HD cameras. I'd be really interested to see a side-by-side video comparision : Two identical #11's taped together, one with the factory-fitted pinhole affair, the other with with a proper lens that has the ability to capture detail at distance, with good light capturing ability.

I wonder if Omnivision do a range of OEM lenses for their cmos modules ?

Richard

Originally Posted by lrrps

Free video dub doesn't work with HD videos (it says missing codec or something of that nature).
Does anyone know how to dub HD videos?

Thanks.

The thread title has your answers... read the editing link in the FAQs in post 3
.

Thanks a lot Tom Frank.

Originally Posted by timetec

Something the #11 lacks is decent optics :

If you fitted a #11 with the same or similar lens as that show attached to camera head of the Redleaf RD32 for example, I'm sure that the image quality would be greatly improved - especially the distance resolution.

We know the 808 #11's are cracking little HD cameras. I'd be really interested to see a side-by-side video comparision : Two identical #11's taped together, one with the factory-fitted pinhole affair, the other with with a proper lens that has the ability to capture detail at distance, with good light capturing ability.

I wonder if Omnivision do a range of OEM lenses for their cmos modules ?

Richard

A better lens or CMOS/lens module is something most of us want to see and has been discussed here in prior posts. If a better lens could be found with the correct thread (I think it's M7) so it could be easily screwed into the CMOS module lens holder, I think someone would give it a shot if the cost was reasonable. The vignetting at the corners and right/left sides of the video is a bigger issue for me than the overall sharpness, but a better lens with larger aperature and maybe different AOV might correct this as well.

I once had a link (I think I might have posted it previously in this thread) to one or two lenses that might work, but the price for one replacement
lens was about the same as the entire camera... beyond my experimentation budget!

The search goes on...

So i'm looking for a new camera.

Been doing a lot of reading and it seems there are quite a few different cameras and sellers.

My question is,.....

Is the #11 "the one" to get for putting onto planes?

Originally Posted by svo

So i'm looking for a new camera.

Been doing a lot of reading and it seems there are quite a few different cameras and sellers.

My question is,.....

Is the #11 "the one" to get for putting onto planes?

Asking that question in this thread is like walking into your local car dealer and asking if their car is the best for driving!

You need to ask yourself what is most important to you in a camera for your AV plane. E.g.

• videos or still photos
• size/weight
• image quality
• cost
• vendor support
• user support
• something else?

If you aren't interesting in shooting still pictures, but everything else I listed counts, then the #11 HD is probably "the one". You can get better video quality for a price, but if you are satisfied with the video clips you see posted here, nothing can beat this one with all the other factors thrown in.... IMHO See posts #1-#3 for more info.

did i receive a defective cam?

my v3 videos plays fine in media player classic, are h264 videos usually playing fine on your computer? (mkv files are h264 most of the time)
You might try updating the firmware in case it is corrupt.

Originally Posted by toxicc

my v3 videos plays fine in media player classic, are h264 videos usually playing fine on your computer? (mkv files are h264 most of the time)
You might try updating the firmware in case it is corrupt.

yes, 720p/1080p mkv plays fine.

still no luck after updating mpc, vlc, quicktime. cccp, klite, ffdshow and no go loading different firmware

edit: tried victapiolt's suggestion; "Failed (unable to convert video file)"

edit2: works after Diana sent me her own fw

Originally Posted by anon55555

yes, 720p/1080p mkv plays fine.

still no luck after updating mpc, vlc, quicktime. cccp, klite, ffdshow and no go loading different firmware

You might try uploading a file to YouTube, and see if it plays.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Hi Jim,
Looks like I missed answering this post earlier.

If I were the developer, I might be able to make such a list. I don't know all the things they might be working on or their priorities. The blinking LED suggestion has been given to them since my perception is that most users who are in this thread because they mount the cameras on RC planes would welcome this change, but some don't want it if they are using the camera for "stealth" videos. And therein lies one problem with a wish list. There's no way to keep everyone happy, so having multiple posts to reflect more of a consensus of RC plane aerial video users (the purpose of this thread!) is not so bad.

The sound issue seems to vary from one camera to the next. I think it will take a hardware mod to do a proper fix, and maybe the v3 circuit board changes they just made help with this? I think the only way to "fix" it with firmware is to have the video stop/save/and shut down sooner at a higher battery voltage level, in which case many (me for one) would say I'd rather have the video with the buzz (which I can mute in post editing) than to have no video at all as the battery weakens.

Tom,
perhaps you misunderstood.. I'm simply asking for a table in the FAQ area to list the bugs, features and functions folks here have frequently asked for.. sure the developers will have their own Bug/ Wish list and priorities.. but why cant we have one too? Never in the history of man has everyone been entirely "happy".. I'm not expecting that No 11's will ever achieve that status.. But, I'd be a little happier if we could refer to, and track the known issues and requested features and functions that might be possible especially if possibly do-able in s/w alone.. in a No 11 without having to put up with hearing them repeated ad nauseum. I'm saying this, in spite of knowing what a truly great job you do in mentioning "..this has been discussed before" over and over. If you want me to do such a table in DRAFT I will list of the ones I keep hearing about.. this other thing is this I know even your developers are only human and they tend to forget things if not written down.. They will do their own thing in ANY case.. but it shouldn't hurt to ask..

Regards,
JimS

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Based on user input I've modified the program again. The current version is 1.0.0.3 and I hope this is now the final version...
..

Iso,
just tried it .. really like it a lot.. Much less fiddling around.. and it's a quick and simple no-brainer.. perfect for me.... Thank you for putting it up here!. I'm gonna run it on all my 3 cams now whether they need it or not.. they all seem to loose track of the time and it's just as simple to run this as it is to check it.
. JiMS

Originally Posted by jims123

Tom,
perhaps you misunderstood.. I'm simply asking for a table in the FAQ area to list the bugs, features and functions folks here have frequently asked for.. sure the developers will have their own Bug/ Wish list and priorities.. but why cant we have one too? Never in the history of man has everyone been entirely "happy".. I'm not expecting that No 11's will ever achieve that status.. But, I'd be a little happier if we could refer to, and track the known issues and requested features and functions that might be possible especially if possibly do-able in s/w alone.. in a No 11 without having to put up with hearing them repeated ad nauseum. I'm saying this, in spite of knowing what a truly great job you do in mentioning "..this has been discussed before" over and over. If you want me to do such a table in DRAFT I will list of the ones I keep hearing about.. this other thing is this I know even your developers are only human and they tend to forget things if not written down.. They will do their own thing in ANY case.. but it shouldn't hurt to ask..

Regards,
JimS

Good in theory, Jim, but I don't think having a link to such a list is going to stop people from just popping in and blurting out their biggest "want", even though it is already on a linked list. That's pretty obvious right now with the questions that get asked over and over in spite of the FAQs and a big banner in the thread title.

But aside from that, some features that some want are not something desirable for aerial video purposes, which after all, is the topic of this forum and the focus of this thread. For example, the "rollover" recording function that will go back and overwrite the flash card when it fills up. This might be great for something like a driving recorder, but it's horrible for AV purposes, where you do not want to erase something you recorded previously and have not copied to your PC yet.

There are other examples like this since there are many who visit this thread only because it's about the #11 camera, not realizing this is a thread dedicated to RC aerial video. So a list asking for a features not useful or even harmful for AV would be off topic and divert a developer's effort away from more beneficial tweaks for the majority of the thread focus group.

And even if on topic, for those controversial items the developer would have to write two new firmware files... one to invoke the change and one to put it back (without disturbing other firmware tweaks). I don't think we can expect this kind of support for a $40 device sold on eBay. E.g. we don't have a firmware for turning ON the date stamp WITH continuous recording... something a minority might use, but from my perspective, a small minority.

The fact that we have an attentive developer who is listening to user feedback at all is highly unusual in itself, and I don't want to confuse or overwhelm them with a long list of wants that might discourage their efforts.

I have only two things that I think are really high priority that might be fixed with firmware that would benefit most all users, and they are:

1. Control the white balance to stop the shifting color tint as the exposure level changes.

2. Throttle back the color saturation so the colors look natural instead of overly vivid, and in extreme cases, almost cartoon-like.

These have been given to the developer, so for now I think that is enough for them to focus on. Even these are controversial, I suspect...