> your credit card data can land in wrong hands,

Yes. Paypal for example.

But I've already stated above: It's a personal view, not worth a discussion.

Originally Posted by emacs

> your credit card data can land in wrong hands,

Yes. Paypal for example.

But I've already stated above: It's a personal view, not worth a discussion.

Good luck ... you will need it

anyone else having issues with the newer updates?

my video is freezing on playback, when it didn;t before and nothing else has changed?

Originally Posted by Razors edge 29

anyone else having issues with the newer updates?

my video is freezing on playback, when it didn;t before and nothing else has changed?

From where did you download your recent update?
I'm not aware of any recent updates for the #11, unfortunately
Mtz posted an update for the #18 fairly recently, but it's still riddled with bugs.
If you are referring to the #18 update, then I have not noticed anything wrong with playback.
Most common problems with playback are due to weak PC hardware or problems with the player.
Always first copy the video file from the card to your hard disk and play it from there.
Use VLC Media Player to playback your video.

I just got a #11 Jumbo and I would like to know if there is a way to turn the LED OFF while recording. I've been looking for the "808 #11 PC configuration Utility" but I can not find it.
Can some one tell me where to download this program?
Thanks.

Originally Posted by RegioTx

I just got a #11 Jumbo and I would like to know if there is a way to turn the LED OFF while recording. I've been looking for the "808 #11 PC configuration Utility" but I can not find it.
Can some one tell me where to download this program?
Thanks.

There isn't one! Please read posts #1-#3. You've got to load in different FW to change ANYTHING on this obsolete camera. Too bad you didn't opt for the #16 instead of the #11.

A little late but if anyone has the original #11 camera still in use may try it.
I made another mod to my #11 cameras.
Upgraded case to the new large #16 case, not the original case but the upgraded one and battery to the large capacity of the #18 (the upgraded 400mah 602035 lipo)
This helps the camera to run cooler and extend battery life a lot. Also helps the cycle life of the battery as now it charges at less than 0.7C instead of about 1.1C
Still the case needed a little modding to fit the large 602035 battery. I trimmed it down a bit.

A few samples of footage I have taken:
(all files are raw, except of some just been trimmed out by the free MPEG StreamClip tool but other than this be raw files)
The cameras run "Release1 exposure control" fimware and with special formatting to the SDHC card record at 10.7K bitrate or at the usual 7K bitrate if I change the formatting.
One of them was running the timestamp off firmware, so I may have such a file too, can`t tell.

http://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/8...VRRjSJpjPRExV0


Note, all of the above are valid for an original #11. The real thing. Before the #18 or #16 was made. The very first one, actually the second batch that made timestamp off firmware to be installed.
This camera is no longer available. Only the "new" #11 which differs quite a lot.

Originally Posted by air_crash

A little late but if anyone has the original #11 camera still in use may try it.
I made another mod to my #11 cameras.
Upgraded case to the new large #16 case, not the original case but the upgraded one and battery to the large capacity of the #18 (the upgraded 400mah 602035 lipo)
This helps the camera to run cooler and extend battery life a lot. Also helps the cycle life of the battery as now it charges at less than 0.7C instead of about 1.1C
Still the case needed a little modding to fit the large 602035 battery. I trimmed it down a bit.

A few samples of footage I have taken:
(all files are raw, except of some just been trimmed out by the free MPEG StreamClip tool but other than this be raw files)
The cameras run "Release1 exposure control" fimware and with special formatting to the SDHC card record at 10.7K bitrate or at the usual 7K bitrate if I change the formatting.
One of them was running the timestamp off firmware, so I may have such a file too, can`t tell.

http://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/8...VRRjSJpjPRExV0


Note, all of the above are valid for an original #11. The real thing. Before the #18 or #16 was made. The very first one, actually the second batch that made timestamp off firmware to be installed.
This camera is no longer available. Only the "new" #11 which differs quite a lot.

I still have a couple of original #11s, they are the ones with the soldered lens module (unfortunately!) and the standard mini USB connector (good!) and canned crystals (not so good). IMO, they are way better than the new generation #11/#18 but, unfortunately, lens module replacements are no longer available and original firmware is very limited in functionality.

I got a pair of keychain cameras used from someone who had it for a year or more. I can't tell if it's a #11 or #16, so I don't know which thread to post troubleshooting questions in.
I did try to disconnect the battery, but it's soldered to the board. That mean it's an 11?

It initially worked, but my Win7 PC wouldn't view .avi files, but co-workers Mac viewed video fine. I tried to check the settings, and it's never worked since. Only a solid yellow led all the time. Doesn't change when plugged in to charge. In fact, it never even turns off until reset pressed.

Originally Posted by cityevader

I got a pair of keychain cameras used from someone who had it for a year or more. I can't tell if it's a #11 or #16, so I don't know which thread to post troubleshooting questions in.
I did try to disconnect the battery, but it's soldered to the board. That mean it's an 11?

It initially worked, but my Win7 PC wouldn't view .avi files, but co-workers Mac viewed video fine. I tried to check the settings, and it's never worked since. Only a solid yellow led all the time. Doesn't change when plugged in to charge. In fact, it never even turns off until reset pressed.

If the battery is soldered to the board then it's definitely a #11 or a cheap 808.... It's definitely NOT a #16 or #18. You can check the board layout here. It should be almost identical.
If it's old, then it is very, very likely that the battery is dead and your camera won't work properly because of it.
You can't use a #16 or #18 battery because they are a bit too fat to fit into the case but the old #16 batteries will fit. You will just have to cut off the plug and solder the leads. If you do this, remember to connect the leads the right way round. Failing to do so will instantly destroy the camera. The battery you are looking for is the 402030P.
I don't want to sound pessimistic, but the solid yellow LED could mean the lens ribbon cable is cracked and that would mean it's no longer possible to repair the camera. Spare lens modules haven't been available for ages.
The #11 was an excellent camera in it's time. It is still a great camera, but the lack of firmware support and the soldered lens module doesn't make it attractive any more.

well, for what it's worth regarding the battery. immediately upon acting up, I left it awhile with the led solid yellow and it was quite warm. 5 minutes? So it at least had some life in it. And the prior owner said he almost never even used it.
Traded a Taranis 16ch receiver for the pair of cameras...sigh.

Let's just assume the battery has enough juice.
I read somewhere that these can get "bricked" if the firmware procedure is done incorrectly. Obviously the incorrect procedure was done.
I had attempted to perform the #16 procedure for manual settings to get saved to the card for changing in Wordpad.
Is there any way to get it to "reboot" without it connecting to the PC as it should?

It's possible something happened to the ribbon cable, but while it was working, I set it down to read, and pushed buttons randomly=now whatever is done to it puts yellow light solid until reset gets pressed.

Originally Posted by cityevader

Let's just assume the battery has enough juice.
I read somewhere that these can get "bricked" if the firmware procedure is done incorrectly. Obviously the incorrect procedure was done.
I had attempted to perform the #16 procedure for manual settings to get saved to the card for changing in Wordpad.
Is there any way to get it to "reboot" without it connecting to the PC as it should?

It's possible something happened to the ribbon cable, but while it was working, I set it down to read, and pushed buttons randomly=now whatever is done to it puts yellow light solid until reset gets pressed.

It seems to me you may have a #3 camera. The charging light is yellow and does not go out by itself when the battery is charged. Even when disconnected from the charger mine did not go out. If I hold down the power button for about 2-3 seconds it goes out. Mine is one of the originals, and still works.

I would not worry that your computer does not play the video, that's probably a codec issue. You could upload the video to YouTube and try to view it, it works every time.

I also doubt that the #3 could be bricked by trying to load #16 firmware, but I might be wrong. You could have corrupted the card however, so check with a reformatted card.

If you still have the video you made, check the details in file manager. If it's a #3, the file name will be SUNxxx.avi, like the att.

Originally Posted by cityevader

Let's just assume the battery has enough juice.
I read somewhere that these can get "bricked" if the firmware procedure is done incorrectly. Obviously the incorrect procedure was done.
I had attempted to perform the #16 procedure for manual settings to get saved to the card for changing in Wordpad.
Is there any way to get it to "reboot" without it connecting to the PC as it should?

It's possible something happened to the ribbon cable, but while it was working, I set it down to read, and pushed buttons randomly=now whatever is done to it puts yellow light solid until reset gets pressed.

First of all, are you 100% sure you have a #11? We can only offer help if you are certain.
I have a feeling you're confusing "updating firmware" and "updating parameters". On the original #11 it was not possible to update the parameters. However, it's possible the previous owner has installed #18 firmware which will work if done properly. There are lots of questions, but first of all you must be certain you have a #11. The problem with the #11 and #18 is that there is no way you can determine which firmware version is installed without desoldering the SPI memory chip and reading the contents with a programmer.
Forget anything you have read about the #16. The #11 and #18 are very primitive in comparison and most firmware and/or parameter procedures don't apply.
Read up on the #11 and #18 and you'll have a greater chance to get the camera working. I would start by updating the firmware - but give it plenty of time, e.g. at least 40 seconds without touching any buttons in between - the battery must be able to last this long or you'll brick your camera.

I doubt it is #11 or #16, .AVI files and yellow led mentioned in post 9909. While it is possible to. Make AVI files with #11 and #16, the previous owner did not use them much, so probably original settings, but more info is needed.

On my 808 for vid out to vtx I need a ground.

Some people have been able to use just a video wire from USB.
Is this normal?

Originally Posted by Razors edge 29

On my 808 for vid out to vtx I need a ground.

Some people have been able to use just a video wire from USB.
Is this normal?

No. A ground is needed, but they may have been using the +5V input on the camera with power (and a ground wire) from the VTX (or from what ever source was powering the VTX).

The #11 doesn't have video out!

Ok thanks

So the ground doesn't have to come from the USB?

For example

If the power from vtx or flight controller fed power into the 808 via its lipo plug as long as its ground somehow to the vtx only a single lead for vid out would be
Needed ?

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

No. A ground is needed, but they may have been using the +5V input on the camera with power (and a ground wire) from the VTX (or from what ever source was powering the VTX).

Originally Posted by Isoprop

First of all, are you 100% sure you have a #11? We can only offer help if you are certain.

I've opened it up again, and while the exterior is identical to #11 or #16, the innards are vastly different.

Originally Posted by Razors edge 29

Ok thanks

So the ground doesn't have to come from the USB?

For example

If the power from vtx or flight controller fed power into the 808 via its lipo plug as long as its ground somehow to the vtx only a single lead for vid out would be
Needed ?

The Camera +5V power-in ground needs to be the same as the ground on the pin where the normal video out ground would connect to. You can check that with a multimeter.

In the Mobius topic there is a video now which was shot with a Neutral Density filter which stops prop blur due to rolling shutter. Has anyone tried this with a keychain cam yet ?

Originally Posted by cityevader

I've opened it up again, and while the exterior is identical to #11 or #16, the innards are vastly different.

I'm sorry to disappoint you, but your camera is certainly not a #11, #18 or #16!
I can't tell you what it is, but most likely it's one of the a low-res (cheap) breed. You may be able to identify it by visiting Chuck Lohr's site. Once you know which version you have, the MEGA Keyfob thread is most likely the best place to get your questions answered.

There are dozens of different 808 cameras which all look identical from the outside with prices starting at a few dollars. Unless they can record in true 720p they are just not worth buying, IMO. For a good 720p camera expect to pay ~$40. You may find cheaper ones, but they won't have very good video quality and will be lacking in functionality and may not even be reliable.

[EDIT] OK, I've opened some of my old 808s and compared them with your photo. Your camera is a #3. The #3 is a low-res camera using the Sunplus processor. It was the best at it's time. I haven't checked for a while, but I think you can still buy these new on eBay for ~$7 including postage. IMO, your camera is not worth fixing. The video quality is terrible in comparison to a 720p video. If you have any questions, you should post them in the MEGA Keyfob thread which I linked above.[/EDIT]

It would be worth looking at the instructions and learn what long press and short press requires for your camera. They seem to have a mind of their own until you train your thumb!!

It may still work, but this is the wrong thread...

hello
i have a #18 jumbo camera
does anyone know where the microfoon is placed ?
i like to cover off the microfoon due to to much noise of the propellors
thanks

Originally Posted by jaccies

hello
i have a #18 jumbo camera
does anyone know where the microfoon is placed ?
i like to cover off the microfoon due to to much noise of the propellors
thanks

This is the #11 camera thread. Check the first post in the #18 thread.

I tried to edit video from the camera in Premiere Pro CS6, but PP CS6 doesn't like the files from thie camera. I have no audio in the time line so its impossible to edit.

Fist off. does anyone know of a fix for this problem, if not what editors do you folks use. Thanks AKf

Originally Posted by akfreak

I tried to edit video from the camera in Premiere Pro CS6, but PP CS6 doesn't like the files from thie camera. I have no audio in the time line so its impossible to edit.

Fist off. does anyone know of a fix for this problem, if not what editors do you folks use. Thanks AKf

Download AVIdemux 2.6 ... it is a perfect tool for convert the video format and as well it offer basic "cut and paste" .. so you can extract segment of video and as well, glue in a sequence videos.

Normally I cut my video on AVIdemux and export in MP4 format (video is not re-encoded, but audio must be). Then Windows Movie Maker can do the rest of the job.

On my PC since video is not re-encoded, AVIdemux process 1GB of video in few seconds

You know I am pissed off a tonight. In good faith a bought a Keychain camera (D lens) from a fellow here on RCG, it was modded for fpv. I got it a few months back and just used it today for the first time.

The video is all pixelated (little squares everywhere) and looks terrible,. The pixelation is intermittent. I am willing to bet, its that stupid FPV mod he did. No I am out the money towards a new cam. So where is the best place to buy a new one with a D lens.

Sorry I had to vent.. and if the guy from Canada who sold me this turd see this post.. Thanks for nothing pal. I deleted my pms and don't care to even research the purchase with my CC.

If it is a D lens, it is probably #16, interchangeable lens modules. A badly installed lens module can give pixelation.

Originally Posted by victapilot

If it is a D lens, it is probably #16, interchangeable lens modules. A badly installed lens module can give pixelation.

And so can the computer/player during playback if they are not up to the task.

Originally Posted by victapilot

If it is a D lens, it is probably #16, interchangeable lens modules. A badly installed lens module can give pixelation.

With all the effort made by Tom ... still people mess up big time between #11, #16, #18 etc

It would just be enough to check post n1 made by Tom, for know without any doubt which camera people own

Anyhow ... interesting to know ... I though that a badly installed lens module would make the camera not work at all ... having pixelation instead ... sound "interesting"

Originally Posted by akfreak

You know I am pissed off a tonight. In good faith a bought a Keychain camera (D lens) from a fellow here on RCG, it was modded for fpv. I got it a few months back and just used it today for the first time.

The video is all pixelated (little squares everywhere) and looks terrible,. The pixelation is intermittent. I am willing to bet, its that stupid FPV mod he did. No I am out the money towards a new cam. So where is the best place to buy a new one with a D lens.

Sorry I had to vent.. and if the guy from Canada who sold me this turd see this post.. Thanks for nothing pal. I deleted my pms and don't care to even research the purchase with my CC.

The original #11 would indeed have to be modded for fpv, but I am not aware of anyone who's done a mod. The #11 didn't have a 'D' lens, the lens was also soldered to the PCB so wasn't exchangeable.
The #18, which is sometimes incorrectly sold as a #11, has an 8-pin USB non-standard socket and can be used for fpv without any modding. A wide-angle lens is available.
The #16 has a standard 5-pin USB plug. The very first versions did not have video-out (fpv) but that was changed with the V2. Again, I am not aware that it's possible to mod this version for fpv. All the #16s can use the wide-angle D-lens so long it was specifically designed for the #16.

Note: In order to mod one of these cameras which doesn't support video-out (fpv) it would be necessary to remove the DSP (processor), add a contact under the chip and resolder the chip back onto the board. The chips use a BGA package which makes it all but impossible to modify the underlying circuitry. It would only be possible if someone had excellent skills and the proper equipment. I very, very much doubt your camera was modded for fpv!

Like Tom has mentioned, the pixelation on playback could well be due to an underpowered PC. I suggest you try to playback your clips using VLC Media Player. VLC has it's own built-in codecs and works extremely well where other players fail.

A badly connected lens will lead to psychedelic colors. It should not be the cause of pixelation.

@Tom

After #18 ... Time to close also this thread ?

Or #11 being the first real HD keycam .. still has a special place in your "heart" ?

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

With all the effort made by Tom ... still people mess up big time between #11, #16, #18 etc

It would just be enough to check post n1 made by Tom, for know without any doubt which camera people own

Anyhow ... interesting to know ... I though that a badly installed lens module would make the camera not work at all ... having pixelation instead ... sound "interesting"

More commonly, a ribbon cable that is partially inserted or tilted in the socket can cause what is described in the #16 thread as "wild psychedelic rainbow colors". I've never seen it cause blocky pixilation, but it maybe possible.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

More commonly, a ribbon cable that is partially inserted or tilted in the socket can cause what is described in the #16 thread as "wild psychedelic rainbow colors". I've never seen it cause blocky pixilation, but it maybe possible.

Speculation on my part, but I was thinking of MILD psychedelic rainbow colors being interpreted as pixilation, but I do like your theory about inadequate processing power of the computer used.

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

@Tom

After #18 ... Time to close also this thread ?

Or #11 being the first real HD keycam .. still has a special place in your "heart" ?

No, this thread (and the obsolete camera it covers) is really old and deserves to be closed more than the #18 thread. So, I am hereby closing it. If anyone has questions about the #11 camera, they can simply make a new thread post (or contact the vendor!).