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Dec 29, 2010, 12:11 PM
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Hobby Lobby Piper J-5


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Received my receiver ready ERC Piper J-5 for X-mass, nice detail, like the navigation lights and the motor battery combo has plenty of power. What I didnít like is the screws that came with the kit. They are very hard to drive due the head not engaging the screwdriver well. I ended up buying a new screwdriver that worked well with those screws. If I lived close to a hobby shop I would have just bought some higher quality allen head type screws. Also mine did not come with a manual? Not a big deal because you can download one from the HL website but nevertheless it wasnít in the box. I also found that the ESC was just thrown into the fuselage but would not work in that position because the leads are to short. I finally figured out a good position that works well although I did end up cutting a hole in the top of the firewall to pass the motor leads through. There is limited space in the battery compartment so only the stock size battery will fit. I am an accomplished RC pilot, and set mine up with the least amount of dihedral and ailerons. First flight was good I found it to be a sporty combination. I did find out it likes to slow down fast and tended to drop a wing quick. On my second flight I was coming in and got to slow, it tip stalled dropped a wing and spun in. The cabin area was torn out, and the wing broke into. I am just about finished with repairs. I plan on setting some wash out in the tips this time around or maybe the "trainer" position screw holes for the struts. I suggest others do the same. Iím leery to suggest this for a trainer. Maybe with 3 channels and the trainer degree of dihedral it behaves better. I donít know since I have tried it yet. Like I said though it is nice looking model, and I like the fact that it isn't just another Cub.
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Jan 09, 2011, 04:47 PM
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Correct


I agree. This was actually my first full scale RC. I was using three chanels and had troubles with it diving on rudder control. After a few flights it dove and split the wings in half and the nose broke off. I haven't Ttempted to fix it yet. As I've also got a electrifly ducted jet ARF and picked up parts from the AMA expo yesterday in Ontario, CA.

Anyways. I was told that the trainer would be better if the rudder was switched with alerons and used for better turn control, at least with this plane.
Jan 12, 2011, 03:40 PM
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Do you guys know the prop size? It appears to be GWS prop, but hobby-lobby is charging $4.99 for each. I think it is a little too much.
Feb 07, 2011, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatternFlyer
Do you guys know the prop size? It appears to be GWS prop, but hobby-lobby is charging $4.99 for each. I think it is a little too much.
I don't. And they are a bit pricey.

I've since glued and tapped this plane back together but found out after first re-launch that the motor was off by a degree or so and it banked hard and crashed.

I am going to retire it and use it's parts. Now I am trying to figure out the Kv on the motor and the Amperage on the speed control.
Feb 07, 2011, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFrosty
Now I am trying to figure out the Kv on the motor and the Amperage on the speed control.
Found the amperage on the ESC: 30A. But no rating shown for the outrunner motor.
Feb 07, 2011, 08:09 PM
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The screws are probably not Phillips if this plane was made overseas. They are more likely JIS, which is basically a metric version of Phillips, except they are not designed to "cam out" under heavy loads. There are a few manufacturers that make JIS drivers; I have some Moody brand ones for my micro helis and my Skyartec Cessna.
Feb 08, 2011, 06:14 PM
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Spare prop is GWS. It actually is sold for around a $1.00 each at local store.
I use JIS screw drivers since I do a lot of work on helicopters. So far, JIS drivers were the only one that work the best.

Frosty,
what do you mean by "motor was off by a degree .."?
Feb 08, 2011, 07:27 PM
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I had mine set up as full trainer version and 3 ch. A very good flyer re-maidened it and after tinkering with trim, power, etc said to put it on a shelf for a year or two! It wanted to stall on him every single time he backed off on the power, even a bit. HE knew what to do, but it is past me and my skill. I think the problem is that these "trainers" are developed by good pilots and they have forgotten where we are as beginners. BTW, the gear sheared off and tore out the struts. And he GREASED it on a smooth hard surface. That little screw, only one of 'em, can't keep that wire, springy, gear from popping out of the fuselage! Lesson learned, don't believe all that is printed on the Internet by the sellers.
Feb 10, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Jason Cole's Avatar
Thanks for the feedback guys. We addressed the screw quality with the manufacturer at Toy Fair in Germany last week and hope to have that solved with the next shipment.

With the plane setup properly, it should exhibit positive stability and be a joy to fly. Beginners have successfully learned to fly with the J-5 and move up to 4 channel flying in short order. The J-5 is a great value and we'll keep looking for ways to make it even better.

Jason Cole
Hobby Lobby
Feb 12, 2011, 07:16 PM
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I am keeping mine! When I have more stick time with other a/c I will take it to a fellow flyer that has an afternoon to help tweak and tune the whole rig! Way too nice of an a/c to give up. The guy that said shelf it also said "maybe with some time and adjusting". The gear .... the little clip that the screw is supposed to hold in ... doesn't. I bought a whole new gear set and the plastic "wedge" is not held in by that screw. I made a plastic washer type thing thast will overlap the wedge and gear. Should hold it in now.
Feb 13, 2011, 04:46 PM
Registered User

Battery and controls


I'm having trouble connecting the 2.4 receiver, motor and the battery. It is shown in the instructions that that batt goes in the nose section, but the connection for the receiver is way too short to reach back to connection. I tried pulling the receiver through, but it cannot be maneuvered to actually be able to plug the power in...

I'm at a loss... any suggestions?

Thanks
Trav
Feb 13, 2011, 08:49 PM
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I had to pull mine back into the rcvr bay, and as I recall I had to turn it aound to get the wire pointing the right direction. Play with it and you'll see a way.
Feb 14, 2011, 10:14 AM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
I'm confused here. The motor is already connected to the esc and the esc is already connected to the receiver in the box. All you have to do is plug the battery into the esc battery connector in the battery hatch when you are ready to fly. You should not have to move the receiver at all.

Jason Cole
Feb 14, 2011, 10:59 PM
Registered User
My ESC, so I presume, was slid back into the battery box area, had to slide that back into the motor mount area. The rcvr was in the rcvr bay, but just sliding around. I had to wrap it in foam to keep it in place. The wires didn't reach, so I had to move things around to get the plug end to reach/connect to the battery box. I think things just slid around in shipping. BTW, Flyboone, did you know that some of them (MINE!) were shipped with the wing LED's in the wrong position? The L tip light is green and the R tip light is red. I am an FAA Air Traffic Controller (40+ yrs) so I do know the L from R !!!!! I have new wing to use after I get the Frankenplane to fly!
Feb 15, 2011, 11:07 AM
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Jason Cole's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkrhardy
BTW, Flyboone, did you know that some of them (MINE!) were shipped with the wing LED's in the wrong position? The L tip light is green and the R tip light is red. I am an FAA Air Traffic Controller (40+ yrs) so I do know the L from R !!!!! I have new wing to use after I get the Frankenplane to fly!
Weird, just fly it upside down to the lights on the right side.... Just kidding, I guess its hard to tell the difference when they are un-powered. I haven't seen any wrong like that myself, but I can mention it to the factory. They are easy to switch around though if you know how to solder.

Jason


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